Diesel heater left on all night

Borris · Dec 13, 2017

MattBW said:
I thought there was 4.54 litres in a gallon? Even so on high its not a

Sometimes I've used it a little and thought I noticed a difference in the gauge, othertimes used a lot and its not budged at all.

Its worth the cost to be warm and cosy

"Arrr, I was wondering when one of you would spot my deliberate mistake".

I've now corrected the figures. Well spotted that man.

bec2557 · Dec 13, 2017

One nights diesel is a lot cheaper than one nights wine

Sp0_0k · Dec 15, 2017

The controls for the heater are pretty inadequate.
The level is thermostat no the level of the heater. So it could just shut off on level 2 in summer or burn like crazy on level 2 in a freezing cold.
I really wish they had an exact power level setting as an option so I can put a level1 so it runs on lowest non stop in any weather.

Anybody has an idea where the thermostat is? Because we are getting pretty inconsistent heating in different weather and open/closed roof setup.

El Greco · Dec 15, 2017

Sp0_0k said:
The controls for the heater are pretty inadequate.
The level is thermostat no the level of the heater. So it could just shut off on level 2 in summer or burn like crazy on level 2 in a freezing cold.
I really wish they had an exact power level setting as an option so I can put a level1 so it runs on lowest non stop in any weather.

Anybody has an idea where the thermostat is? Because we are getting pretty inconsistent heating in different weather and open/closed roof setup.

It's the temperature that needs to be controlled not the heater power output.

Borris · Dec 15, 2017

Sp0_0k said:
The controls for the heater are pretty inadequate.
The level is thermostat no the level of the heater. So it could just shut off on level 2 in summer or burn like crazy on level 2 in a freezing cold.
I really wish they had an exact power level setting as an option so I can put a level1 so it runs on lowest non stop in any weather.

Anybody has an idea where the thermostat is? Because we are getting pretty inconsistent heating in different weather and open/closed roof setup.

Well I must admit that the Beach parking heater does seem to have a mind of its own but that's probably me not fully understanding how it operates. I've read the manual but as far as the Beach is concerned its not that clear, either that or I haven't understood it properly or perhaps I'm just thick!

I've always assumed that it's designed to maintain the same selected cabin temperature, hence the themostatic control. Once the temperature has been reached it will turn itself off and then back on again when it drops below the set temperature level but only for the programmed time period, just like a domestic central heating system. If you want it to continuously maintain the same cabin temp then set the programmed time to infinity. Well at least that's how I understand it to operate. Am I correct?

WelshGas · Dec 15, 2017

Sp0_0k said:
The controls for the heater are pretty inadequate.
The level is thermostat no the level of the heater. So it could just shut off on level 2 in summer or burn like crazy on level 2 in a freezing cold.
I really wish they had an exact power level setting as an option so I can put a level1 so it runs on lowest non stop in any weather.

Anybody has an idea where the thermostat is? Because we are getting pretty inconsistent heating in different weather and open/closed roof setup.

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_singl...819/subcategory/819045/part_id/3694320/lang/e

Part No’s 16. The Temperature sensor measures the Air Inlet Temperature. So, in a factory install the temperature of the air from the Intake Vent in the Front Footwell, R side, is measured.
There is, as far as I am aware, no other temperature sensor for the Parking Heater.

Sp0_0k · Dec 15, 2017

Borris said:
If you want it to continuously maintain the same cabin temp then set the programmed time to infinity. Well at least that's how I understand it to operate. Am I correct?

Seems more complex than that
My heater was shutting off completely several times when set on 1 or 2, after like couple restarts due to reached temp.
I suspect it might be measuring the temperature weirdly even outside?
Does intake take all the air from inside for recirculation?
So far only Level3 meant 100% guarantee it doesn't shut down. And in most weather cases the lowest power level running according to the pump ticking sound.
I've had a heater going crazy ticking fast even at setting 1 in a pretty cold weather.

We are mostly running the heater with a tube to a tent at night so need the lowest setting.
In most other short running cases we just set level3 for lowest power and no shuts off.

Is it possible to set the power and time for a remote? It seems to always start for 30mins level5 ignoring the common setting we have.

Bellcrew · Dec 16, 2017

Sp0_0k said:
Seems more complex than that
My heater was shutting off completely several times when set on 1 or 2, after like couple restarts due to reached temp.
I suspect it might be measuring the temperature weirdly even outside?
Does intake take all the air from inside for recirculation?
So far only Level3 meant 100% guarantee it doesn't shut down. And in most weather cases the lowest power level running according to the pump ticking sound.
I've had a heater going crazy ticking fast even at setting 1 in a pretty cold weather.

We are mostly running the heater with a tube to a tent at night so need the lowest setting.
In most other short running cases we just set level3 for lowest power and no shuts off.

Is it possible to set the power and time for a remote? It seems to always start for 30mins level5 ignoring the common setting we have.

I like the way the Cali heater will run continuously at low speed/heat when set on 3, just about right when using the roof bed (fitted with an internal liner), probably too warm in the lower bed.
The Eberspacher in my boat has a thermostat on the control and it stops and restarts throughout the night, which is a noisy pain.

larrylamb · Dec 16, 2017

Sp0_0k said:
Seems more complex than that
My heater was shutting off completely several times when set on 1 or 2, after like couple restarts due to reached temp.
I suspect it might be measuring the temperature weirdly even outside?
Does intake take all the air from inside for recirculation?
So far only Level3 meant 100% guarantee it doesn't shut down. And in most weather cases the lowest power level running according to the pump ticking sound.
I've had a heater going crazy ticking fast even at setting 1 in a pretty cold weather.

We are mostly running the heater with a tube to a tent at night so need the lowest setting.
In most other short running cases we just set level3 for lowest power and no shuts off.

Is it possible to set the power and time for a remote? It seems to always start for 30mins level5 ignoring the common setting we have.

With most of your heat going up a tube to upstairs I can't see how the stat would work correctly, the downstairs must be quite cold so it would be reluctant to switch off??

California4x4 · Dec 16, 2017

It was between -20 and -10 last night. Level 2 on the heater kept it betweeen 15 and 19 degrees inside with the top down. Water pipes froze though, with the cupbord doors open.

Ian Robinson · Dec 16, 2017

Hi, I have the Eberspacher Airtrinic D3 plus parking heater. According to the online troubleshooting and repair manual (covers models D3 and D4 plus but not specifically D3 plus?) it says that once the sensor temperature exceeds the selected level the heater regulates its output in 4 stages - 3000w, 2200w, 1600w and 900w. If once it regulates down to 900w it is still exceeding set point it turns off and runs the fan for 4 minutes to cool the heat exchanger. So I guess that if the van is loosing heat at less than a rate of 900 w it will turn on and off as required, but if the van looses heat to the outside at more than 900w it can run continuously. Heat loss will depend on if roof is up or down, inside to outside temperature difference, if front windows are open slightly for ventilation etc, etc.

Hope this helps

Borris · Dec 16, 2017

Ian Robinson said:
Hi, I have the Eberspacher Airtrinic D3 plus parking heater. According to the online troubleshooting and repair manual (covers models D3 and D4 plus but not specifically D3 plus?) it says that once the sensor temperature exceeds the selected level the heater regulates its output in 4 stages - 3000w, 2200w, 1600w and 900w. If once it regulates down to 900w it is still exceeding set point it turns off and runs the fan for 4 minutes to cool the heat exchanger. So I guess that if the van is loosing heat at less than a rate of 900 w it will turn on and off as required, but if the van looses heat to the outside at more than 900w it can run continuously. Heat loss will depend on if roof is up or down, inside to outside temperature difference, if front windows are open slightly for ventilation etc, etc.

Hope this helps

Thanks, that's interesting and makes sense of whats been happening.

So to make it run continously without shutting off, leave the side door open. :thumb

WelshGas · Dec 16, 2017

Borris said:
Thanks, that's interesting and makes sense of whats been happening.

So to make it run continously without shutting off, leave the side door open.

Or leave the Window slightly open on the R side. Cold air being denser will fall to the Step well and will be taken in via the Heater Inlet vent keeping heater going.

T6 CFO · Dec 16, 2017

-2 where we were last night. 2 of us Downstairs with the roof down both front windows cracked just open (winders would be easier) and heater set to 1 was perfect for temperature. Some condensation on the side windows and windscreen but not bad. Just used the magnet blinds on sides and the internal screen blinds.

Mike

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

T6 CFO · Dec 16, 2017

T6 CFO said:
-2 where we were last night. 2 of us Downstairs with the roof down both front windows cracked just open (winders would be easier) and heater set to 1 was perfect for temperature. Some condensation on the side windows and windscreen but not bad. Just used the magnet blinds on sides and the internal screen blinds.

Bit of trial and error required as I would prefer to eliminate the condensation. Less breathing or more ventilation required.

Mike

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

B J G · Dec 17, 2017

RodCouncil said:
8th of a tank and was on for 13-14hrs

If you'd just stopped after a long run the diesel in the tank would be hot and cool down overnight giving a lower gauge reading the following morning. As the heater is near the tank it may not go to such a cold state as with the heater off but shouldn't make a significant diesel tank temp change.

I recall a car that I had used to show quite a drop overnight, so much that I thought somebody was stealing a bit of fuel on a regular basis until I sussed it out.

andyinluton · Dec 17, 2017

Been discussed before, the amount diesel expands and contracts is minimal certainly not enough to register on the gauge.

B J G · Dec 17, 2017

andyinluton said:
Been discussed before, the amount diesel expands and contracts is minimal certainly not enough to register on the gauge.

I was talking from personal experience on previous vehicles and haven't checked the Cali but due to basic laws of expansion it will make a difference.

WelshGas · Dec 17, 2017

andyinluton said:
Been discussed before, the amount diesel expands and contracts is minimal certainly not enough to register on the gauge.

You might see a change on the MFD “ Miles to Travel “ reading rather than the Analogue Fuel Gauge.

Wesel · Dec 18, 2017

B J G said:
I was talking from personal experience on previous vehicles and haven't checked the Cali but due to basic laws of expansion it will make a difference.

The thermal expansion coefficient for gas-oil is about 1/1000.
For a tank containing 60 litrers, a variation of 20 ° C to 0 ° C will cause a decrease in volume of about 1,2 litres.
It's not nothing but will the gauge show 1 litre of difference?

Wesel · Dec 18, 2017

WelshGas said:
You might see a change on the MFD “ Miles to Travel “ reading rather than the Analogue Fuel Gauge.

Are you sure that the MFD takes into account the amount of gas-oil going into the heating and not going through the motor feed pump flowmeter's ?

B J G · Dec 18, 2017

Wesel said:
The thermal expansion coefficient for gas-oil is about 1/1000.
For a tank containing 60 litrers, a variation of 20 ° C to 0 ° C will cause a decrease in volume of about 1,2 litres.
It's not nothing but will the gauge show 1 litre of difference?

Cali gauge isn't very clear and i was referring to previous vehicles.
I did however notice that the range on the MFD was 20 miles less the following morning than when parked, it went up again after 10 miles.

Not looked at the VW Cali fuel system but normally the fuel is moved continuously from the tank to engine to tank etc. In this process it gets much warmer than the ambient air, fuel cooling is needed prior to being injected, fuel tank internal temperature could be over 40 degrees which would give a 2.5 ltr drop or more.

Just thinking of how much a plastic can of diesel expands in summer and the sides suck in during winter shows how much variation the temp. causes.

Velma's Dad · Dec 18, 2017

Borris said:
Thanks, that's interesting and makes sense of whats been happening. So to make it run continously without shutting off, leave the side door open.

This raises an interesting question. If I set the heater control on 7, will the van warm up (to a comfortable temperature) more quickly than if I set it on 1?

I ask this because Mrs VD has an extremely annoying habit spinning the climate dial in our Volvo up to about 30 degrees when she sets off on a cold day, as she believes the car will warm up more quickly than if she just leaves it on say 20 deg. My protestation that the set point does not change the rate of heat gain falls on deaf ears. Even though she has a degree in physics.

Vis-a-vis the Cali aux heater, can anyone save our marriage?

Actionwave · Dec 18, 2017

Heater is a great bit of kit...

B J G · Dec 18, 2017

Velma's Dad said:
This raises an interesting question. If I set the heater control on 7, will the van warm up (to a comfortable temperature) more quickly than if I set it on 1?

I ask this because Mrs VD has an extremely annoying habit spinning the climate dial in our Volvo up to about 30 degrees when she sets off on a cold day, as she believes the car will warm up more quickly than if she just leaves it on say 20 deg. My protestation that the set point does not change the rate of heat gain falls on deaf ears. Even though she has a degree in physics.

Vis-a-vis the Cali aux heater, can anyone save our marriage?

Get a replacement car with dual temperature control. A small price for tranquillity??

On setting 7; as the required air temp would be exceeded the heat would penetrate clothing quicker giving the impression that it had warmed up faster.
This would also heat up the Cali body and fittings quicker making setting back to required to stable ambient temp quicker. All in theory without the benefit of a Physics degree.
Sitting on the passenger side would put you further from the heater input meaning longer warm up time.

I think I've just talked myself onto Mrs VD side by accident, :Iamsorry

Diesel heater left on all night

Borris

bec2557

Sp0_0k

El Greco

Borris

WelshGas

Retired after 42 yrs and enjoying Life.

Sp0_0k

Bellcrew

larrylamb

Cali owner.

California4x4

Ian Robinson

Guest User

Borris

WelshGas

Retired after 42 yrs and enjoying Life.

T6 CFO

Mike

T6 CFO

Mike

B J G

andyinluton

B J G

WelshGas

Retired after 42 yrs and enjoying Life.

Wesel

Wesel

B J G

Velma's Dad

Actionwave

Novice California Owner

B J G

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