Help - Faulty display reading for Leisure Batteries - >>20A

My control panel display shows that my Leisure Batteries % drops quickly – even after charging via hook-up overnight. I think this is a false reading as there still appears to be plenty of life in LBs, even when reading 0%. (I charged overnight on Thursday via hook-up cable and since then have had fridge running on max for several hours, laptops/tablets charging, lights on, powered aux heater on several times etc - LBs still appear to be going strong).

In addition, the panel shows a constant reading of >>20A – which I think indicates greater than 20A flowing in (Even though it’s not connected and the engine is not on).

It seems to suggest that the panel is getting a false reading regarding the 12v system. From reading through some of the tech docs, would I be right in thinking this is an issue with the Battery charge control measuring resistor N162?

I have also checked the cube fuse on the rear LB which appears fine and also completed a panel reset and 2nd battery off and on again in the diagnostic menu.

We’ve got a few wild camping trips planned and would like to have a clearer idea of the state of the batteries so would appreciate any ideas on how to resolve this. Thanks

FRIDAY PANEL PIC



SATURDAY PANEL PIC

MONDAY PANEL PIC

That's not normal, try resetting it or pull the 5a fuse under the passenger seat (pull both 5a fuses the other is the water pump)

Loz said:

That's not normal, try resetting it or pull the 5a fuse under the passenger seat (pull both 5a fuses the other is the water pump)

Click to expand...

Cheers. Just tried the above but, after resetting date/time etc, the display is still the same.

I think you need to check the shunt next.

Loz said:

I think you need to check the shunt next.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I've just read the instructions for this from the VIP area and think I'll need some time to do this properly. I'll update later in the week. Thanks again.
Any other forum thoughts much appreciated.

I know this is a bit simple but I noticed the fridge is showing on in the display. Faulty fridge? Have you tried switching it off and then reset the control panel? Might be worth a try.

Jabberwocky said:

I know this is a bit simple but I noticed the fridge is showing on in the display. Faulty fridge? Have you tried switching it off and then reset the control panel? Might be worth a try.

Click to expand...

I've had the fridge on max just to see how long the batteries last in-spite of the faulty reading but I did try your suggestion but to no avail. That said, I'm not sure that the reset is actually doing anything. I am right in thinking I need to just hold down the lower-right button for more than 5 seconds? Nothing in particular seems to happen when I do this.
Don't know if anyone could also shed any light on the info from the hidden menu. Does any of this provide anything of significance...

Sorry, but your CP screen in the photo means nothing to me.

Umm, I'm not too sure of the reset procedure (I've not had to use it thankfully yet). I had a quick look in various forums and it seems that there are two types of reset. One where you can see all the error codes (which you can clear once noted) and a straight forward reset. It might be wise to do the one with error codes first. I'm sure someone here will answer the reset procedure soon for you.

Albino said:

I've had the fridge on max just to see how long the batteries last in-spite of the faulty reading but I did try your suggestion but to no avail. That said, I'm not sure that the reset is actually doing anything. I am right in thinking I need to just hold down the lower-right button for more than 5 seconds? Nothing in particular seems to happen when I do this.
Don't know if anyone could also shed any light on the info from the hidden menu. Does any of this provide anything of significance...

Click to expand...

Never seen that screen before.
Have you tried this:-

For those of you who don't know, if you ever get any problems with roof stuck or any other error say with the heater, you are able to access the hidden menu in your control panel as used by the VW Engineers.

Access as follows:


1. Hold down the centre of the rotary button together with the menu button (button below with the squares on it)

2. You will get the hidden menu.

3. Rotate the rotary button to get to "VW diagnose" and select this by pressing on the centre of the rotary button.

4. If no errors are present it will display "no errors"

5. If Errors are present then a list of errors will appear

6. Press the centre of the rotary button again to delete all the errors

7. Repeat process above just to check that errors have dissapeared!

8. Re-configure the time and date if neccesary.


Any problems should be resolved assuming these are Electronic and not Mechanical.



Error Codes from Control Panel.



1 = 1 = Pop-up roof

2 = 2 = Plumbing Heating

3 = 3 = Cool box Cooler

4 = 4 = Sewage wastewater

5 = 5 = Fresh water fresh water

6 = 6 = Outside temperature outside temperature

7 = 7 = Battery

Error Code Defect Fault

1010 1010 Short-circuit to (earth) roof

1001 1001 Fuse / short circuit to (plus+) roof

1100 1100 Short-circuit output Roof "on"

1101 1101 Fuse roof "to"

1110 1110 Short-circuit output Roof "to"

1111 1111 Fuse starting Roof "to"

2100 2100 Short-circuit output heating on / off

2101 2101 Fuse output heating on / off

2001 2001 Interrupt input heating 30

3100 3100 Short-circuit output coolbox

3101 3101 Fuse interrupt output output coolbox

3001 3001-J698-cooler input error "Active"

3010 3010 Short-circuit input icebox "actual temperature"

3011 3011 Interrupt or fuse input icebox "actual temperature"

4000 4000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

4001 4001 Fuse circuit to plus water level sensor failure

5000 5000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

5001 5001 Short circuit to plus water level sensor failure

6000 6000 Short-circuit to ground temperature sensor or for outdoor temperature

6001 6001 Fuse / short circuit to plus two temperature sensors for outside temperature

7001 7001 interrupt input interrupt input D +

WelshGas said:

Never seen that screen before.
Have you tried this:-

For those of you who don't know, if you ever get any problems with roof stuck or any other error say with the heater, you are able to access the hidden menu in your control panel as used by the VW Engineers.

Access as follows:


1. Hold down the centre of the rotary button together with the menu button (button below with the squares on it)

2. You will get the hidden menu.

3. Rotate the rotary button to get to "VW diagnose" and select this by pressing on the centre of the rotary button.

4. If no errors are present it will display "no errors"

5. If Errors are present then a list of errors will appear

6. Press the centre of the rotary button again to delete all the errors

7. Repeat process above just to check that errors have dissapeared!

8. Re-configure the time and date if neccesary.


Any problems should be resolved assuming these are Electronic and not Mechanical.



Error Codes from Control Panel.



1 = 1 = Pop-up roof

2 = 2 = Plumbing Heating

3 = 3 = Cool box Cooler

4 = 4 = Sewage wastewater

5 = 5 = Fresh water fresh water

6 = 6 = Outside temperature outside temperature

7 = 7 = Battery

Error Code Defect Fault

1010 1010 Short-circuit to (earth) roof

1001 1001 Fuse / short circuit to (plus+) roof

1100 1100 Short-circuit output Roof "on"

1101 1101 Fuse roof "to"

1110 1110 Short-circuit output Roof "to"

1111 1111 Fuse starting Roof "to"

2100 2100 Short-circuit output heating on / off

2101 2101 Fuse output heating on / off

2001 2001 Interrupt input heating 30

3100 3100 Short-circuit output coolbox

3101 3101 Fuse interrupt output output coolbox

3001 3001-J698-cooler input error "Active"

3010 3010 Short-circuit input icebox "actual temperature"

3011 3011 Interrupt or fuse input icebox "actual temperature"

4000 4000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

4001 4001 Fuse circuit to plus water level sensor failure

5000 5000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

5001 5001 Short circuit to plus water level sensor failure

6000 6000 Short-circuit to ground temperature sensor or for outdoor temperature

6001 6001 Fuse / short circuit to plus two temperature sensors for outside temperature

7001 7001 interrupt input interrupt input D +

Click to expand...

WG, thanks very much. I will now keep this info handy just in case. Thanks again.
Rik

WelshGas said:

Never seen that screen before.
Have you tried this:-

For those of you who don't know, if you ever get any problems with roof stuck or any other error say with the heater, you are able to access the hidden menu in your control panel as used by the VW Engineers.

Access as follows:


1. Hold down the centre of the rotary button together with the menu button (button below with the squares on it)

2. You will get the hidden menu.

3. Rotate the rotary button to get to "VW diagnose" and select this by pressing on the centre of the rotary button.

4. If no errors are present it will display "no errors"

5. If Errors are present then a list of errors will appear

6. Press the centre of the rotary button again to delete all the errors

7. Repeat process above just to check that errors have dissapeared!

8. Re-configure the time and date if neccesary.


Any problems should be resolved assuming these are Electronic and not Mechanical.



Error Codes from Control Panel.



1 = 1 = Pop-up roof

2 = 2 = Plumbing Heating

3 = 3 = Cool box Cooler

4 = 4 = Sewage wastewater

5 = 5 = Fresh water fresh water

6 = 6 = Outside temperature outside temperature

7 = 7 = Battery

Error Code Defect Fault

1010 1010 Short-circuit to (earth) roof

1001 1001 Fuse / short circuit to (plus+) roof

1100 1100 Short-circuit output Roof "on"

1101 1101 Fuse roof "to"

1110 1110 Short-circuit output Roof "to"

1111 1111 Fuse starting Roof "to"

2100 2100 Short-circuit output heating on / off

2101 2101 Fuse output heating on / off

2001 2001 Interrupt input heating 30

3100 3100 Short-circuit output coolbox

3101 3101 Fuse interrupt output output coolbox

3001 3001-J698-cooler input error "Active"

3010 3010 Short-circuit input icebox "actual temperature"

3011 3011 Interrupt or fuse input icebox "actual temperature"

4000 4000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

4001 4001 Fuse circuit to plus water level sensor failure

5000 5000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

5001 5001 Short circuit to plus water level sensor failure

6000 6000 Short-circuit to ground temperature sensor or for outdoor temperature

6001 6001 Fuse / short circuit to plus two temperature sensors for outside temperature

7001 7001 interrupt input interrupt input D +

Click to expand...

Yeah, I tried that but get "No Errors!"
The image I posted was from Stage 3 of your post where I get a menu of:

>Diagnose
>VW Diagnose > No Errors
> Hardware Menu > See above image
> Unit Version > Part Number
> Software Number

I took another picture (see below)of the same screen after driving for about 20 minutes. I definitely think the highlighted area provides some important info - I just wish I knew how to interpret it!

The upper part of the image is after recharging through the alternator:

Albino said:

Yeah, I tried that but get "No Errors!"
The image I posted was from Stage 3 of your post where I get a menu of:

>Diagnose
>VW Diagnose > No Errors
> Hardware Menu > See above image
> Unit Version > Part Number
> Software Number

I took another picture (see below)of the same screen after driving for about 20 minutes. I definitely think the highlighted area provides some important info - I just wish I knew how to interpret it!

The upper part of the image is after recharging through the alternator:

Click to expand...

So this just happened out of the blue I presume?

The measuring shunt is located under the Fridge. Is it dry under there?

WelshGas said:

So this just happened out of the blue I presume?

The measuring shunt is located under the Fridge. Is it dry under there?

Click to expand...

I've only had the Cali since November and not really paid that much attention to the LBs or display to be honest as we've been hooked up when we've been away. I was only paying a bit more attention as we've got some wilder trips planned over the next few months and initially I was concerned that the LBs were draining fast - That doesn't seem to be so much of an issue with that based on the usage since Friday but I'd still like to be able to monitor usage/remaining power accurately.

All looks fine and dry under the fridge as far as I can see.

Looks like the Earth Shunt will be the way to go next...

Albino said:

I've only had the Cali since November and not really paid that much attention to the LBs or display to be honest as we've been hooked up when we've been away. I was only paying a bit more attention as we've got some wilder trips planned over the next few months and initially I was concerned that the LBs were draining fast - That doesn't seem to be so much of an issue with that based on the usage since Friday but I'd still like to be able to monitor usage/remaining power accurately.

All looks fine and dry under the fridge as far as I can see.

Looks like the Earth Shunt will be the way to go next...

Click to expand...

2014 isn’t affected by the Earth Shunt problem that affected earlier California’s 2006 - 2009 or so.
Yours is a different problem.
It is either the Control Panel, which is only a computer, gone haywire, or the Battery Charge Control Measuring Resister.
Found under the Fridge.

At least I appear to have been on the right lines in my original post then!
Still going to be a fridge out job though by the looks of things...I'm away with hook-up this weekend so will leave it until after that to investigate.

Can anyone let me know the exact location of the "Battery charge control measuring resistor N162" or Shunt?

If I could see it, how would I know that it was damaged in any way? Or would it be a case of replacing the component regardless?
I've ordered an endoscope to have a peek around under the fridge before taking anything out so would be handy to know what I'm looking for and where.
Thanks in advance.

Its under the fridge but how you get to it I am not sure.
This thread might help but seems a bit drastic (drilling and cutting that is).
https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/earth-shunt.6579/

Albino said:

Can anyone let me know the exact location of the "Battery charge control measuring resistor N162" or Shunt?

If I could see it, how would I know that it was damaged in any way? Or would it be a case of replacing the component regardless?
I've ordered an endoscope to have a peek around under the fridge before taking anything out so would be handy to know what I'm looking for and where.
Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

WelshGas said:

View attachment 32191 View attachment 32192

Click to expand...

that Fanta is in the wrong place , better to put in IN the fridge instead under the fridge....

WelshGas said:

View attachment 32191 View attachment 32192

Click to expand...

That second photo clears things up - Thanks. The info on that forum thread it's from has some useful info regarding this issue too (Albeit tricky to follow even using google translate!)

It looks like an initial check can be completed by seeing if the N162 shunt bolts are loose. On the thread mentioned above it seems that tightening the bolts has solved similar problems. Some people appear to access the shunt by cutting a hole in the cabinet wall in the 2nd battery compartment.
Any idea on whether I'd need to disconnect the LBs to tighten this up???

Further remedies seem to include replacing the cable or re-siting the shunt on the chasis. These would clearly involve the whole fridge removal process.

@hotel california - As for the Fanta, I guess they needed something to prop up the fridge and keep all the beers inside nice and cool!

hotel california said:

that Fanta is in the wrong place , better to put in IN the fridge instead under the fridge....

Click to expand...

I think that was an image from a German site. Maybe hiding it from the “ Sugar Police “.

Albino said:

Further remedies seem to include replacing the cable or re-siting the shunt on the chasis. These would clearly involve the whole fridge removal process.

Click to expand...

Hi Albino! Did you get things sorted out in the end? I have read this thread with huge interest, and would love to hear how it all turned out.

best,
Erik