Cupboard latch broken after 9 months..

Once I've had the warranty repair done I'm going to fit a stop on the bottom slide to prevent the RHS cupboard door sliding into it and breaking the replacement.

Can't understand why VW could not come up with this simple fit to a common problem.

I'll post pics once done.
 
crookrise said:
Strange phenomenon, mine has just cracked. 6 months old.
Click to expand...
As someone else pointed out it's a poor design, the right hand door slides to the fully open position and hits the left hand latch on the inside and cracks the plastic.

When my latch is replaced by VW next week I will install a stop in the bottom runner to prevent it happening again, I'll put a post up with a photo once done.
 
sbmcd said:
As someone else pointed out it's a poor design, the right hand door slides to the fully open position and hits the left hand latch on the inside and cracks the plastic.

When my latch is replaced by VW next week I will install a stop in the bottom runner to prevent it happening again, I'll put a post up with a photo once done.
Click to expand...
If you take this route, rather than a brace as in #8, I think you will two stops, one for each door, for optimum protection. It could be a neater and simpler solution than the brace I fitted, so I am interested how it works in practice. Perhaps a top and bottom stop each side will be even better, only a trial will tell.

I look foward to your photo. I think a previous poster used a dome head screw as a stop, but there are lots of epoxy based possibilities too.

There is limited tolerance between stopping short of the latch and leaving space for the undersink drawer to open, though I am probably stating the obvious.

You are quite right @sbmcd it is a poor design to the extent that the stops are inadequate (but this is easily remedied), in all other respects I think the kitchen cabinet design is excellent and better than any alternative I have seen.

It also might be worth looking at reinforcing the 'tongue' at the LH door frame/keep.
 
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Viktorgeorge said:
If you take this route, rather than a brace as in #8, I think you will two stops, one for each door, for optimum protection. It could be a neater and simpler solution than the brace I fitted, so I am interested how it works in practice. Perhaps a top and bottom stop each side will be even better, only a trial will tell.

I look foward to your photo. I think a previous poster used a dome head screw as a stop, but there are lots of epoxy based possibilities too.

There is limited tolerance between stopping short of the latch and leaving space for the undersink drawer to open, though I am probably stating the obvious.

You are quite right @sbmcd it is a poor design to the extent that the stops are inadequate (but this is easily remedied), in all other respects I think the kitchen cabinet design is excellent and better than any alternative I have seen.

It also might be worth looking at reinforcing the 'tongue' at the LH door frame/keep.
Click to expand...
Useful comments thanks, I've checked there is adequate clearance for the stop in the runner while still allowing the drawer to open., I'll provide a reference dimension for the stop. I'll consider a second stop as you suggest.
 
sbmcd said:
Useful comments thanks, I've checked there is adequate clearance for the stop in the runner while still allowing the drawer to open., I'll provide a reference dimension for the stop. I'll consider a second stop as you suggest.
Click to expand...
I think the LH door 'slamming' onto the RH door is as much of a risk to the latch(es) as RH to LH, but I think from your post that you think the same. Additional top of rail stops might be a luxury, but this you will likely discover once to start the fix.
 
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