2011 180 DSG Engine Destroyed - What Next Pls ?

G

gatvol

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My engine blew last night at below 90k miles on the motorway. Recovered by the AA.

The van is otherwise in great shape, everything works - so scrapping it is tempting but probably not sensible.

One owner. Proper maintenance. Oil always warmed up before significant revs. No error codes. But major loss of power. Firing on three cylinders. Awful rattle. Sounds terminal.

First mechanic's opinion is that the bottom end has gone.

What would people do with this pls ?

Downgrade to 140 engine ?

Install a refurbed 180 engine ?

New 180 engine ?

Are there good specialists who know how to sort this out please ?

Thanks for any wisdom you can share
 
Sorry to hear your woes.

Your answer is in your previous posts.


If it were me I would fully reasearch the 140 route

 
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It's Germany but some good info here and at the bottom, a link to a price for a refurbed engine...

5 Star review.
 
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Despite what many people think—and speaking as someone who has just had to fork out for a new engine the CFCA engines are generally very reliable.(if EGR deleted early on and serviced regularly)


Before jumping to conclusions, I’d strongly suggest having yours properly checked first. I’ve personally not heard of the CFCA bottom end failing, so it’s worth ruling out other causes.


If I were in your shoes, this is exactly what I would do:


Step-by-step checks


1. Drain the oil and remove the oil filter
Check for metal particles.
  • If there are metal bits → the engine is done (see options below).

2. If the oil and filter look clean, carry out a compression test
  • If compression is low → engine is done (see options below).
3. Check for fault codes
Could this be fuel- or injector-related rather than mechanical? Faulty injectors can often sound like a knocking bottom end.

If a new engine is required, your options are:​


A) New crate engine


A brand-new crate engine (including EGR, injectors, and glow plugs) costs around £5,000.

You should budget another £1,000 for:


  • Timing belt kit
  • Accessory pulleys and belts
  • Gaskets
  • Water pump
  • Exhaust clamps
  • Coolant
  • Brake fluid
  • PAS fluid
  • Slave cylinder
  • Coolant flange and thermostat
All of these make sense to replace while the engine is out. Many are known weak points, and doing them now will give you years of trouble-free motoring.


I personally used a trusted friend of mine, a highly experienced mobile mechanic who’s swapped more engines than I’ve had hot dinners. He:
  • Removed the engine
  • Transferred all ancillaries
  • Cleaned everything that needed attention (e.g. intake manifold)
  • Fitted the timing belt kit mm-perfect (this matters)
  • Reinstalled the engine
  • Primed the fuel system
  • Bled everything correctly
  • Refitted the entire front end without damaging any bodywork

Don’t expect this to be a 24-hour marathon job. It can take up to a week, as he may have other commitments. That said, if you’re on a budget and depending on your location, this could be a very good option. Budget around £1k?




B) Specialist companies (e.g. Restoruss or Darkside Developments)


I’m not certain on the final figure, but I’d expect it to be around £12,500, give or take.




C) Engine rebuild


In my opinion, this is not an option.


A rebuild costs almost as much as a new engine, yet you:
  • Have no history of the unit
  • No real control over build quality or tolerances
  • No guarantee on how well the work was carried out
  • And you’re left hoping it wasn’t a “Friday afternoon Mr Siliconator job

For every successful rebuild, there are ten others listening to their mates say:
"Buy cheap, buy twice"- The only difference is, deep down, you know it wasn't cheap but definitely going to be twice.

I truly hope its going to be a cheap fix.
if its an injector, i got 4 good ones from my old engine.
if you are after a rev D egr, i got an brand new vw one.
if you are after a good complete bottom end, i got this too, undamaged, ready to be slapped on.. please don't entertain griding your crank and oversized bearings. Tolerances are tight, quality control is key.


Please keep us posted and fire away any questions
Alex
 
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For me a new 180 crated engine....emulate the EGR and blank.....oil change annually irrespective of mileage

Agree with the above apart from the timing belt kit /water pump?... that had me stumped. Assume the crated engine would be already belted up and timed? But I would check it is timed whilst the engine is on the crate.
 
For me a new 180 crated engine....emulate the EGR and blank.....oil change annually irrespective of mileage

Agree with the above apart from the timing belt kit /water pump?... that had me stumped. Assume the crated engine would be already belted up and timed? But I would check it is timed whilst the engine is on the crate.
It definitely does not come with a water pump or timing belt. The camshaft sprocket also needs to be transferred from the original engine.


The engine itself is supplied timed as accurately as possible from the factory, with only minor adjustments required during installation.


Once the camshaft and HPFP were locked in position, we had to rotate the crankshaft back by approximately 2 degrees to allow the locking pin to engage. After fitting the timing belt and rotating the engine several times by hand, only minor adjustments were needed via the four camshaft sprocket bolts. This ensured that all locating pins could be inserted smoothly, confirming that correct and precise timing had been achieved.
I also added the oil before this stage to ensure some level of oil priming

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Crumbs....cheers, didn't know that.
 
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