3 way coolbox query / Hard wiring fridge to leisure battery

[John Caunce]

Guys,

After several weeks of making a decision on which cool box to purchase for the Cali B, yesterday a ordered a dometic ACX 40G - 3 way with the gas option by way of the aerosol type canister.

Made this decision on the basis of when we haven't got a hook-up or we are out and parked for the day, I'm not dependant on the battery.

I'm going to install a multi gas detector which includes carbon mono. It will be rare that we don't have overnight hook-up but has anyone had any ventilation type issues with a 3 way cooler?

Thanks

JC

 

[kave]

I would never use it on gas inside any vehicle. If the flame goes out in the night I dont like to think about what can happend.

 

[Amarillo]

After several weeks of making a decision on which cool box to purchase for the Cali B, yesterday a ordered a dometic ACX 40G - 3 way with the gas option by way of the aerosol type canister.

I'm on the brink of making a different decision.

After years of using a 3 way fridge for camping, I'm on the cusp of scrapping it in favour of either an electric coolbox or fridge, plus solar panels for off-grid power supply.

 

[Bellcrew]

I'm on the brink of making a different decision.

After years of using a 3 way fridge for camping, I'm on the cusp of scrapping it in favour of either an electric coolbox or fridge, plus solar panels for off-grid power supply.

We have owned and used a Waeco CDF 18 compressor cool-box for over 10 years on our boat, whilst the capacity is only 18 litres it has always been reliable and easy to carry about. Normally turn it off at night and still keeps the milk etc fresh for morning, and the wine chilled for the evening.

 

[MattBW]

I have met a few members who use one of those outside of the van when using it on gas.

My old van had a gas powered fridge but it also had an external exhaust to remove the CO from the van.

Fridges generally have flames that run blue, meaning the flame is cleaner and low CO, but low CO is still CO. Even running well the general advice is not to use it in enclosed spaces at all. I know some will probably say it won't produce much/enough CO and yes with a good ventilation you should probably be ok. It won't be as bad as a cooker or heater but it will produce some and for me not worth the risk. A CO alarm should give you some extrar peace of mind if its properly looked after and used as per the instructions (avoiding moisture, not near next to appliances etc). I have some at home that show the amount in the air, always nice when you see a nice big Zero on it.

That said I work in the gas industry and far too often we see incidents from folk who thought it would be fine. For me personally it just isn't worth the risk if you are sleeping with an appliance on gas.

 

[WelshGas]

Guys,

After several weeks of making a decision on which cool box to purchase for the Cali B, yesterday a ordered a dometic ACX 40G - 3 way with the gas option by way of the aerosol type canister.

Made this decision on the basis of when we haven't got a hook-up or we are out and parked for the day, I'm not dependant on the battery.

I'm going to install a multi gas detector which includes carbon mono. It will be rare that we don't have overnight hook-up but has anyone had any ventilation type issues with a 3 way cooler?

Thanks

JC

Dometic advise it should only be run on 12v or 240v within enclosed spaces. So upto you if you want to take the risk of running it on gas within the vehicle. Personally it would be a No No for me, no matter how many gas alarms.

 

[BeachyBird]

I have met a few members who use one of those outside of the van when using it on gas.

My old van had a gas powered fridge but it also had an external exhaust to remove the CO from the van.

Fridges generally have flames that run blue, meaning the flame is cleaner and low CO, but low CO is still CO. Even running well the general advice is not to use it in enclosed spaces at all. I know some will probably say it won't produce much/enough CO and yes with a good ventilation you should probably be ok. It won't be as bad as a cooker or heater but it will produce some and for me not worth the risk. A CO alarm should give you some extrar peace of mind if its properly looked after and used as per the instructions (avoiding moisture, not near next to appliances etc). I have some at home that show the amount in the air, always nice when you see a nice big Zero on it.

That said I work in the gas industry and far too often we see incidents from folk who thought it would be fine. For me personally it just isn't worth the risk if you are sleeping with an appliance on gas.

Matt this is a bit off topic but I know you run a waeco fridge in your Beach.
We have the 2 seater beach and a waeco cf26 normally we have it plugged into the 12v plug behind the passenger seat but noticed when not on hook up the fridge stops, so I conducted a little experiment and it appears the fridge will run when plugged into any of the other 12v plugs front and back but not the one behind the passenger seat, any idea why this would be ???????

 

[MattBW]

Is your battery voltage good? Hmmm could be that this socket is mistakenlyconnected to the vehicle battery? What level do you have the battery protection set to on the fridge, I found high cut out way too early.

I do find mine will cut out occasionally in that socket too, even when the battery is fine but it always keeps cold and comes back on.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[BeachyBird]

Is your battery voltage good? Hmmm could be that this socket is mistakenlyconnected to the vehicle battery? What level do you have the battery protection set to on the fridge, I found high cut out way too early.

I do find mine will cut out occasionally in that socket too, even when the battery is fine but it always keeps cold and comes back on.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for reply Matt
Yes battery voltage is good 12.7 the same as the other sockets running off the leisure battery at the time i did the test. Fridge is set to Low. I repeatedly plugged it in to every one and it started up and ran no problem but that one it kept trying (clunking) but wouldn't start.
At the time it did start using the vehicle battery socket in the front as well.

 

[MattBW]

I have the same thing weirdly... except mine cuts out regularly even with enough voltage but still keeps cold.
I suspect the 20A rating on that socket isn't true or my battery is having a very large voltage drop.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MattBW]

I was thinking about this, low safety cut out I think is actually 10.8v (edit its actually 10.1v) cut out , so that's low enough to damage a batteries capacity, do you have a way to monitor the voltage under drawer? If you are getting 12.7 volts your cut out shouldn't cut in. If it's been regularly ran down to 10.8v the battery could be under performing?

 

[Max-Felix]

Even though the voltage shows 12v + through a multimeter you will find that as soon as a load is applied then this may drop to unacceptable levels. This is probably due to the extra resistance and possible connections all the way to the rear plug. When we did a month in the Beach with a Waeco/Mobicool FR-35 31L fridge I found that the same issues using the 12v cig plug type fitting***

It is *much* better to simply dismantle the 12v plug on the Waeco, solder on a decent length of twin core automotive cable (high amp rating to avoid drop) and take this directly via an inline fuse to the leisure battery. In this way you avoid all the inter connections that add up to lose current.

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/fridge-for-beach.13960/page-3#post-183713


***On our pod I wired a supply to the water pump from the B pillar 12v socket and then an extension from this was intended for the fridge supply plug but it was one connection too many in terms of V drop:

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/building-a-kitchen-pod-for-the-beach.14752/page-3#post-160530

I have to say that I cannot see why you could possibly want a gas powered fridge when the modern 12v/240 compressor types are so clean, easy and efficient.

Ours was great for four people and like others I turned it off at sleep time and back on in the morning.

Check this topic below and maybe think again on the gas 3 way thing - it's old tech and as others have said you don't want to run it inside really.

The 12v compressor types are not that power hungry - a drive now and again or a hook up and charge from a Ctek once a week or two is all we did.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FC42HAA/?tag=eliteelect-21

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001XPHO5A/?tag=eliteelect-21

Using the above hook up and battery charger (infinitely better tech than any in-built VW Cali battery charger) is a really neat and compact and cheap 240v solution. The Cteks come with plugs/adaptors you attach and leave on the leisure battery - no fiddling with crocodile clips, just leave the rubber plug under the passenger seat battery rubber cover and plug in as needed. Always carry a multimeter too - very useful to keep proper tabs on voltage/usage etc.

Good Beach fridge advice here too:

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/fridge-for-beach.13960/

 

[John Caunce]

Even though the voltage shows 12v + through a multimeter you will find that as soon as a load is applied then this may drop to unacceptable levels. This is probably due to the extra resistance and possible connections all the way to the rear plug. When we did a month in the Beach with a Waeco/Mobicool FR-35 31L fridge I found that the same issues using the 12v cig plug type fitting***

It is *much* better to simply dismantle the 12v plug on the Waeco, solder on a decent length of twin core automotive cable (high amp rating to avoid drop) and take this directly via an inline fuse to the leisure battery. In this way you avoid all the inter connections that add up to lose current.

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/fridge-for-beach.13960/page-3#post-183713


***On our pod I wired a supply to the water pump from the B pillar 12v socket and then an extension from this was intended for the fridge supply plug but it was one connection too many in terms of V drop:

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/building-a-kitchen-pod-for-the-beach.14752/page-3#post-160530

I have to say that I cannot see why you could possibly want a gas powered fridge when the modern 12v/240 compressor types are so clean, easy and efficient.

Ours was great for four people and like others I turned it off at sleep time and back on in the morning.

Check this topic below and maybe think again on the gas 3 way thing - it's old tech and as others have said you don't want to run it inside really.

The 12v compressor types are not that power hungry - a drive now and again or a hook up and charge from a Ctek once a week or two is all we did.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FC42HAA/?tag=eliteelect-21

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001XPHO5A/?tag=eliteelect-21

Using the above hook up and battery charger (infinitely better tech than any in-built VW Cali battery charger) is a really neat and compact and cheap 240v solution. The Cteks come with plugs/adaptors you attach and leave on the leisure battery - no fiddling with crocodile clips, just leave the rubber plug under the passenger seat battery rubber cover and plug in as needed. Always carry a multimeter too - very useful to keep proper tabs on voltage/usage etc.

Good Beach fridge advice here too:

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/fridge-for-beach.13960/

Thanks,

Luckily delivery was hindered for the 3 way I ordered. Gave me the opportunity to change my mind so went for the tropicool cfx35 which on initial cool down and running appears to be perfect for the job. Although probably could have got away with the cfx 21 in terms of size

John

 

[Amarillo]

Luckily delivery was hindered for the 3 way I ordered. Gave me the opportunity to change my mind so went for the tropicool cfx35 which on initial cool down and running appears to be perfect for the job. Although probably could have got away with the cfx 21 in terms of size.

We had the CFX28 delivered today. It is huge, far bigger than I imagined it might be.

 

[kave]

I agree, cfx is larger than expected. I just froze it full of meat since our main freezer in the house was full.

 

[Max-Felix]

Glad you're sorted JC! If anyone wants to have a go at wiring it direct who has not done this sort of thing before then it's very simple.

The plug is like this inside, just remove the cables and the central one (RH side of pic going to the white fuse) is positive (so red going to an 8amp blade inline fuse). Outer negative. Use 25amp cable to avoid voltage drop and just a couple of suitable ring terminals are all you need to connect to the battery accessory terminals on the battery clamps. Solder everything, not crimps and use heatshrink over the top of all solder joints.

Obviously this is wired in kind of permanently (although it only takes a couple of minutes to undo the nuts and remove the terminals from the battery). However, you can just unplug at the fridge end to remove or reposition the fridge of course. This would be preferable to fitting another 12v plug at the battery end introducing more joins and voltage drop.

Suitable cable:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Core-Tw...hash=item3cfc385920:m:mfSYhEM1CILcU8MIq9LTMLA

Inline fuse holder:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/In-line-S...755375?hash=item3aac0ed12f:g:tIcAAOSwlPRTb-vP

 

[MattBW]

Our CF40 is massive, I would go smaller if I bought again heh. That said ours is full of frozen goods at the moment, its been an under the stairs freezer since Christmas When it's empty I may install it as a beer fridge in my man cave

 

[John Caunce]

Guys,

cfx35 fits great on the MFB , can be accessed from inside the van and have the choice of the two 12v sockets in the rear (boot and next to the bench). Obviously will strap down, just in case.

Might get another 240v cord and make an extension to it so I can leave insitu when on hook-up. We tend to use the "downstairs" as living space and sleep in the top bed.

If the weather is bad it will fit on the floor with the bed extended

JC

 

[James B 2016]

Check this topic below and maybe think again on the gas 3 way thing - it's old tech and as others have said you don't want to run it inside really.

The 12v compressor types are not that power hungry - a drive now and again or a hook up and charge from a Ctek once a week or two is all we did.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FC42HAA/?tag=eliteelect-21

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001XPHO5A/?tag=eliteelect-21

Using the above hook up and battery charger (infinitely better tech than any in-built VW Cali battery charger) is a really neat and compact and cheap 240v solution. The Cteks come with plugs/adaptors you attach and leave on the leisure battery - no fiddling with crocodile clips, just leave the rubber plug under the passenger seat battery rubber cover and plug in as needed. Always carry a multimeter too - very useful to keep proper tabs on voltage/usage etc.

Hi Max felix. I was interested in your comment on how the ctek charger is infinitely better than the built in VW charger. I already have a ctek and had assumed that I wouldn't need it for my T6 beach. How come it's better?

 

[Max-Felix]

Hi James. Convertors (and VW may be different but they penny pinch as much as anyone) will typically fit a very basic, not very smart, cheap and cheerful battery charging unit into their conversions. The Ctek chargers are pretty much an industry standard in terms of smart tech and features to really get the best out of a vehicle battery and definitely worth using if you have a built in charger or not. Obviously not in general camping mode but hooking one up at home or periodically over the winter will help to keep the battery in it's best health I'm sure. Worth having regardless just for other vehicles too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FC42HAA/?tag=eliteelect-21

 

[James B 2016]

Thanks. That's good to know. I do have one which I bought to charge my early bay over winter. I've sold the early bay now though and was considering selling it on. I think I I'll keep it now!

 

[Stuart]

Matt this is a bit off topic but I know you run a waeco fridge in your Beach.
We have the 2 seater beach and a waeco cf26 normally we have it plugged into the 12v plug behind the passenger seat but noticed when not on hook up the fridge stops, so I conducted a little experiment and it appears the fridge will run when plugged into any of the other 12v plugs front and back but not the one behind the passenger seat, any idea why this would be ???????

Just noticed this. I also have a CF26 and have exactly the same issue when plugged in to the socket behind the passenger seat. I've also noticed the error light flashes.

And even on the other 12v sockets it can take a few attempts to get started.

I've wondered about trying a shorter cable to see if that makes any difference.

 

[BeachyBird]

Just noticed this. I also have a CF26 and have exactly the same issue when plugged in to the socket behind the passenger seat. I've also noticed the error light flashes.

And even on the other 12v sockets it can take a few attempts to get started.

I've wondered about trying a shorter cable to see if that makes any difference.

Would be interested to know if that works ?? It's a wired one, can't get my head round why it has a problem, kept wondering if the fridge was faulty and wether I should return it (12 months is up June) but keep hoping to find a simple solution.

 

[Stuart]

Would be interested to know if that works ?? It's a wired one, can't get my head round why it has a problem, kept wondering if the fridge was faulty and wether I should return it (12 months is up June) but keep hoping to find a simple solution.

I believe it's a 2 year warranty. Or rather I hope it is as mine has just passed 1 year!

 

[BeachyBird]

I believe it's a 2 year warranty. Or rather I hope it is as mine has just passed 1 year!

Oh that's good can spend a bit more time trying to find the reason or a solution. It's generally not a problem cuz we use hook up but would be nice to know it would run for a couple of days on 12v if needed.
Thanks for info