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Alloy Wheel Lock Nut - Can’t Remove!

The non friction surfaces are coated, the brake pads to the rest.
Thanks, on my last set of rear discs it was the friction area that was the problem in winter. I have been trying to use the brakes a bit more heavily on occasion to ensure the new ones stay rust free.
 
Thanks, on my last set of rear discs it was the friction area that was the problem in winter. I have been trying to use the brakes a bit more heavily on occasion to ensure the new ones stay rust free.
Interestingly the replacement Brembos on the rear are not rusting like first set did.
 
Interestingly the replacement Brembos on the rear are not rusting like first set did.
I fitted Bosch discs this time they too seem to be rust free so far, previous two sets were VW OEM they both rusted badly. It is fair to say we have had much less salt on the roads this winter than usual, been so warm.
 
I fitted Bosch discs this time they too seem to be rust free so far, previous two sets were VW OEM they both rusted badly. It is fair to say we have had much less salt on the roads this winter than usual, been so warm.
Original VW Rear Disks now on 89,000 miles but front disks changed at 77,000 miles as there was some ridges on the rear of the disks and the brake pads were about 90% worn and were being changed.
 
Original VW Rear Disks now on 89,000 miles but front disks changed at 77,000 miles as there was some ridges on the rear of the disks and the brake pads were about 90% worn and were being changed.
Quite a dramatic difference, in experience. My fronts simply wore out, the rears (two sets) rusted wearing the pads prematurely and eventually renewing them was the only option. I note many others have had a similar experience. Hopefully my new discs will last as long as yours.
 
Quite a dramatic difference, in experience. My fronts simply wore out, the rears (two sets) rusted wearing the pads prematurely and eventually renewing them was the only option. I note many others have had a similar experience. Hopefully my new discs will last as long as yours.
My California is used as a Daily driver. The longest it is idle is now, 4 weeks at Heathrow.
 
My California is used as a Daily driver. The longest it is idle is now, 4 weeks at Heathrow.
Mine is my daily driver as well, longest it is parked is one week at Edinburgh airport so certainly not a use issue.
 
Mine is my daily driver as well, longest it is parked is one week at Edinburgh airport so certainly not a use issue.
Very strange.
 
I bought a low range torque wrench to service my push bike. I use it on my compound archery bow also.
 
Look back at my post on the 16th October!
We asked for the wheels to be removed at the first "service" (6th Dec) and a release agent to be applied to the hub shoulder, which the VW assist technician had told us to do. VW van centre Sheffield refused to do this and told us it would be done at the next service; not very helpful.
The van is to go back in on Monday to have the rear oil seal to the crank attended to ( it is less than 12 months old!) so we shall see if they will do the necessary work on the wheels. It appears that the workshop is overwhelmed by the volume of work presented to it.
 
I bought a low range torque wrench to service my push bike. I use it on my compound archery bow also.
May be useful for your pushbike but unlikely to have the range to do your wheel nuts.
 
May be useful for your pushbike but unlikely to have the range to do your wheel nuts.
Oh, yes I. Agree, but tools are tools. Power drill for inserting, removing screw in tentpegs. Wire grill for toast when not on hooh-up. If you have the technology, use it.
 
Just experienced the very same problem as Eamonn. Puncture on a cold wet Saturday morning, and simply couldn’t get the locking wheel nut (LWN) loose - the locking nut and key design are ‘nuts’..! And the wheel brace just isn’t up to the job. After calling a few local garages - I ended up calling out a specialist..! A locking wheel nuy guy..! Didn’t realise they existed - people making a living out of roadside LWN removal. That says it all doesn’t it. And his recommendation was to not use LWNs at all... and to replace them. Afterall - when was the last time you had a wheel stolen...? He loosened the other three for me at the same time. (Note - he had a very simple impact driver. For those of you worried about torque / or security - i suggest you buy one and keep it in the van!) I’m just thankful it happened to me during working hours and I wasn’t loaded with fsamily, in a dangerous location or In a hurry with a ferry to catch. I recommend you all at least have a plan - because take it from me - you won’t be able to do it at the roadside with the kit provided.
 
The supplied wheelbrace being angled tends to make the lock nut key 'spin off' the lockbolt.
To stand any chance a Breaker Bar and long wheel nut socket is worth carrying.
The locknut design doesn't help with the high torque.
 
Happy New Year all!

I have time to post this while waiting on the hard shoulder of a busy motorway late at night on New Year’s Day.

I picked up a puncture on the way home with my family and pulled in to the hard shoulder, where I removed the spare wheel and got to work removing the offending wheel. However, it is impossible to remove the locknut using the adapter provided!!! I cannot get enough purchase on the nut to loosen it, and it feels like I will round off the nut corners if I continue to try.

So, I’ve just ordered a taxi to come out and take my family home while I wait for a tow truck to come and get me.

I’m staggered that VW have used such a stupidly flawed system; in order to protect a 16” standard wheel from theft they have rendered it impossible for me to change a tyre!!!

Am I the only one to suffer from this?

View attachment 53749
No but after 6 months I decided to remove all my wheels as I had heard they can be very difficult. I am so glad I did these at home as one wheel took me 4 hours to remove. I managed it using a wedge in the edge of the tire lowering the van to break the seal wheel to hub. Cleaned hub with wire brush.
 
Has anyone managed to get the spare wheel to slide out / down without first jacking up the rear of the van ?? - am i missing something ?? - if you dont know about this and have already jacked up and removed a front wheel its a faff moving the jack to the rear -
 
No but after 6 months I decided to remove all my wheels as I had heard they can be very difficult. I am so glad I did these at home as one wheel took me 4 hours to remove. I managed it using a wedge in the edge of the tire lowering the van to break the seal wheel to hub. Cleaned hub with wire brush.
The first time I tried to take the wheels off of our van I had to use a sledgehammer tapping the tyre and moving the wheel round bit by bit nothing else was heavy enough. After that I always use a tiny bit of copper grease on the Wheel and hub. Now every time they are taken off it’s easy peasy.. Also you are much more likely to have your wheels nicked if you haven’t got locking nuts... I found out the hard expensive way.
 

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