Buy all your VW California Accessories at the Club Shop Visit Shop

Autoglym Scratch Removal Complete Kit

M

Matty

Messages
59
Location
Aberdeen
Vehicle
T6 Beach 150
Wondering if anyone has use the Autoglym scratch removal kit to remove light scratches on their van. Usual marks from branches and some slightly worse ones from what looks like either a buckle on a bag (thinking delivery driver) or similar.

Matty

 
Doesn't work. Tried it on the same tree scratches all down my left side. A very minor improvement at best
 
You have to be very careful in my experience. Apply light pressure only, and do it in good lighting conditions.
I removed some light brush marks successfully on one side, but did another slightly deeper one on the other side when the light conditions weren't quite so good. Ended up with with lighter coloured patch along the whole length of the vehicle. Got ride of the scratch though!
Vehicle colour, lndium Grey.
 
Hello,

Years ago with a Toyota Avensis Verso I managed in Kerry on a very narrow road, to scratch the entire left side on a hedge. It was deep enough in the paint and I tried a few of those scratch removal solutions. Nothing worked.

I went to a car paint shop nearby and asked for advise or help. They said leave the car with us for half a day and we will polish those scratches out of the paint.

Long story short, they removed the scratches altogether. Was done really well. I can't remember how much I paid for it at the time, but it was not much (EUR 50 - 80 which I thought was good value for money).

If this happens again I will bring the van to a car paint shop, at least to ask for advise. Have I said that I have one stone chip on the bonnet and one at the top of van over the wind screen. They are a bit more severe. If the restrictions are lifted I will ask how much it cost to get those removed.

Happy California,
Eberhard
 
Snag with scratch removal is that you are often merely making the scratch bigger. ie removing the paint each side of the scratch to blend it in.
VW (like all modern vehicles) have very thin paint layer to start with.
 
Cheers for that, out of interest what did you use or have you just decided to live with it
i've got many scratches and marks now so just live with it. maybe one day i can afford to splash out on a company to do a machine polish on the whole van for me. and fix my dings.but for now i live with it
 
I have one of those kits but haven't tried it yet. However after decades of home bodgery when it comes to hedge row scratch removal, I'd be amazed if it works that well. Still that remains to be seen.

Whilst light scratches can sometimes be buffed out with cutting compound and wax, I've found it often takes an awful lot of elbow grease to achieve a half decent job. Some lacquer coats can be very hard.

I recently inherited my late fathers old Skoda Fabia 1.4 tdi. As an excecutor, I was going to unload it onto WBAC for the benefit of his estate but his widow said to keep it as that is what he would have wanted. It's a one owner with only 50,000 miles, has a full service history and costs peanuts to run. So long story short, it has ended up as a family hack to be used and lent out to anyone who needs emergency transport. Very useful for tip runs etc. Also, I can park it anywhere without worrying about it getting bashed. However, and more to the point, it's other major role will be as a test bed for body work experiments.

My dad was never that careful with the paintwork, accordingly the car has many minor scratches, mostly light surface stuff but a few are deeper and go beneath the lacquer layer. If the weather ever improves, I intend to purchase one of those dual action oscillating paint buffers and some appropriate product. Being pearlesent Magic Black it should make the perfect test subject. I have also purchased some touch up paint and some vvv fine wet and dry for the deeper scratches. The object is not so much to tart up this ancient fifteen year old banger but to see just how good a job I can make of minor bodywork damage. You never know the experience may come in useful on our other vehicles. With the garage costs in dealing with even a minor scratch often being eyewateringly expensive, it's should end up being a worthwhile exercise.

I'll keep you posted.
 
I have used this Mcguires product to take out marks in top coat to good effect. ( hedge branch marks )

after use, polish then wax.

if the clear coat is damaged (i.e the colour coat, primer, metal is showing through) nothing will take out the mark.
 

Attachments

  • B1FC4F48-304A-4A9A-A50C-FEE2BA56E06C.jpeg
    B1FC4F48-304A-4A9A-A50C-FEE2BA56E06C.jpeg
    182 KB · Views: 20
Scratch X and a Meguires DA.
 
T-cut is old tech. Get in contact with a local detailer and they will do the job properly.
Yes, OK for solid paint colours but metallic paint has a lacquer top coat which is very difficult to repair on an amateur basis. Easy to make it much worse visually.

eg
I had a stone chip on the drivers door top of a previously owned car, metallic blue. I thought that I'd get one of those 'Chips away' outfits to do it.
He came and said 'no we don't do that as a chip repair, it's a panel respray job'
 
Yes, OK for solid paint colours but metallic paint has a lacquer top coat which is very difficult to repair on an amateur basis. Easy to make it much worse visually.

eg
I had a stone chip on the drivers door top of a previously owned car, metallic blue. I thought that I'd get one of those 'Chips away' outfits to do it.
He came and said 'no we don't do that as a chip repair, it's a panel respray job'
I was under the impression that both solid and metalic paints have top laquer coat s these days. Am I wrong?
 
I was under the impression that both solid and metalic paints have top laquer coat s these days. Am I wrong?
Hi Boris you are correct, modern water based paints require a top clear coat to seal, the colour coat is only a thin layer, the top “clear coat” is for UV stability and protection of the colour coat.
 
Hi Boris you are correct, modern water based paints require a top clear coat to seal, the colour coat is only a thin layer, the top “clear coat” is for UV stability and protection of the colour coat.
Thanks. Am I right in thinking that the clear coat layer is much thicker for obvious reasons
 
If you can feel the scratch with your finger nail then you will be in danger of going through the clear coat so these would be difficult.
 
Thanks. Am I right in thinking that the clear coat layer is much thicker for obvious reasons
The clear coat will be much thicker than the colour coat ( clear coat 25 - 50 microns)

Factory applied Clear coat is in fact incredibly hard and resistant to abrasion.

light to medium swirls will polish out.
Large areas, affected by swirls, like on a Van, are best machine polished using either a two stage process :
a cutting compound to reduce the surface thickness of the clear coat, allowing a new surface to be exposed,
followed by a polish, to further polish the remaining clear coat.
or a product that is a two stage single application product. : one product that simply breaks down from a cutting compound into a polish (machine applied) the rotating and abrasive action breaks down the “grit” from Cutting grade to polishing grade (clever stuff)

the clear coat can be repaired more easily if it’s just the clear coat that is damaged. Small repairs can be carriers out with a little care, when the colour coat or primer has been exposed it’s a bit More difficult.

surfaces marks appear as scratches can be polished out by hand, often what looks like a long white mark (hedges etc) will come out totally with a bit of paint cleaner, polish and re wax.
as LRGS says if you can feel the scratch with a finger nail the clear coat has been damaged to the point where polish will probably not remove the mark fully it will generally need to be infilled with more clear coat, flattened and machine polished By a competent person.

Cutting and polishing can Damage paintwork (beyond repair) if done incorrectly. All cutting will reduce the thickness of the clear coat. Understanding this is key to renovation of a damaged clear coat.

light damage : I.e swirls : for an amateur a Dual action (DA) polisher with an appropriate sponge mop and dual cut / polishing compound is the safest way to attack your problems, but it is not risk free
 
Last edited:
Hi Boris you are correct, modern water based paints require a top clear coat to seal, the colour coat is only a thin layer, the top “clear coat” is for UV stability and protection of the colour coat.
Just a question with nothing more than clarification wanted.

Why do touch up pens/sticks come as one pen for solid colours but 2 pens/sticks (colour + lacquer) for Metallics?
 
Hi BJG

not sure, maybe that the paint is a single application ( different type ) of paint to that applied at the factory. I.e it has hardeners in the paint to replace the clear coat.

see below

 
Back
Top