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Awning removal

Found this link might be of help re awning did not know how simple it can be to remove

You should post a link to it in the Downloads section, so it is easier to find next time.:thumb
 
I thought some of the holes need to be plugged?
Since we usually doesnt camp between oct-march I have thought about removing it, but you never know when it is needed to keep rain water from entering the door.
 
I thought some of the holes need to be plugged?
Since we usually doesnt camp between oct-march I have thought about removing it, but you never know when it is needed to keep rain water from entering the door.
You could just remove the Awning Cassette and Rubber seal and leave the brackets in place.
The Bracket bolts don't go through the bodywork but just clamp the Bracket to the rail on the California.
 
I thought some of the holes need to be plugged?
Since we usually doesnt camp between oct-march I have thought about removing it, but you never know when it is needed to keep rain water from entering the door.


You acually need to get a shorter set of bolts to put back in without the bracket . So i been told never done this .
But guess a couple roundels can do the trick....
 
You acually need to get a shorter set of bolts to put back in without the bracket . So i been told never done this .
But guess a couple roundels can do the trick....
No bolts through roof according to this diagram.

IMG_0393.PNG
 
I think the bolts nr . 23 need to be shorter if you remove the bracket .
They need to go back in to fill the hole's
If you leave them out and put the roof up you will have water comming in .

As i said : ....been told ....never had mine removed
 
What would be the point of removing it?
 
Remember that the illustration that welshgas kindly put on here is of the THULE awning the early calis were fitted with the FIAMMA awning
 
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Remember that the illustration that welshgas kindly put on here is of the THULE awning the early calis were fitted with the FIAMMA awning
Mine is an early cali 2006, it came with a Thule Omnistor awning.
The torx screws fixing the brackets are of different lengths, front/rear, i just
put them back in the holes finger tight when i remove the awning.
 
No bolts through roof according to this diagram.

View attachment 25705
Hi WG, do you know of any way to raise the entire awning rail a bit higher? When I attach my Vango Cross Air awning using the kadar strip to the awning rail, the sliding door always catches on the kadar strip/awning when the door is opened because the kadar strip hangs just low enough to where the door catches it. I've retracted the actual awning as far as it will go to ensure there is tension on the awning tunnel, but regardless of what I do, the door constantly catches the kadar strip. If I could raise the awning rail a cm or two, that would solve the problem. Appreciate any help you can offer.
 
Hi WG, do you know of any way to raise the entire awning rail a bit higher? When I attach my Vango Cross Air awning using the kadar strip to the awning rail, the sliding door always catches on the kadar strip/awning when the door is opened because the kadar strip hangs just low enough to where the door catches it. I've retracted the actual awning as far as it will go to ensure there is tension on the awning tunnel, but regardless of what I do, the door constantly catches the kadar strip. If I could raise the awning rail a cm or two, that would solve the problem. Appreciate any help you can offer.
Personally, I don't use an awning but you cannot raise the awning vehicle attachment without some major engineering of the brackets and ungluing and re-gluing the rail to which the awning is attached.
Can you use the legs of the windout awning to push it up slightly or will that interfere with the Kador attachment?
Or park a little further away so that when the windout awning is wound in to tension the tunnel the kador attachment is further from the vehicle allowing the sliding door to open behind it rather than onto the attachment
 
Hi WG, do you know of any way to raise the entire awning rail a bit higher? When I attach my Vango Cross Air awning using the kadar strip to the awning rail, the sliding door always catches on the kadar strip/awning when the door is opened because the kadar strip hangs just low enough to where the door catches it. I've retracted the actual awning as far as it will go to ensure there is tension on the awning tunnel, but regardless of what I do, the door constantly catches the kadar strip. If I could raise the awning rail a cm or two, that would solve the problem. Appreciate any help you can offer.
Hi GO,

have a look at this thread for an alternative way of attaching the Drive away awning to the wind out awning cassette.

 
Hi WG, do you know of any way to raise the entire awning rail a bit higher? When I attach my Vango Cross Air awning using the kadar strip to the awning rail, the sliding door always catches on the kadar strip/awning when the door is opened because the kadar strip hangs just low enough to where the door catches it. I've retracted the actual awning as far as it will go to ensure there is tension on the awning tunnel, but regardless of what I do, the door constantly catches the kadar strip. If I could raise the awning rail a cm or two, that would solve the problem. Appreciate any help you can offer.
Roll the roller awning out slightly & then attach the kador strip, then you can use the roller awning legs to raise the height of the connection point in order to clear the sliding door.
 
Hi GO,

have a look at this thread for an alternative way of attaching the Drive away awning to the wind out awning cassette.

Thanks! I tried that and it looks like it will work, but the kador strip channel is tight fitting over the awning edge. I may need to sand the channel a tad to give it a bit looser fit. I'm nervous the tight fit will scratch the awning edge.
 
Personally, I don't use an awning but you cannot raise the awning vehicle attachment without some major engineering of the brackets and ungluing and re-gluing the rail to which the awning is attached.
Can you use the legs of the windout awning to push it up slightly or will that interfere with the Kador attachment?
Or park a little further away so that when the windout awning is wound in to tension the tunnel the kador attachment is further from the vehicle allowing the sliding door to open behind it rather than onto the attachment
Thanks WG. Good advice. I'll try that.
 
Thanks! I tried that and it looks like it will work, but the kador strip channel is tight fitting over the awning edge. I may need to sand the channel a tad to give it a bit looser fit. I'm nervous the tight fit will scratch the awning edge.
No need to sand!...Your connector might be the wrong size, get one of these; It can also be used on the other side - non roller awning side of the van (you just slide two of the strips into the channel), which comes in handy when its warmer as you can still enjoy an open view from the roller awning & then put the freestanding awning on the other side of the van:

 
Thanks! I tried that and it looks like it will work, but the kador strip channel is tight fitting over the awning edge. I may need to sand the channel a tad to give it a bit looser fit. I'm nervous the tight fit will scratch the awning edge.
Hi GollyOlly,

are your figure if 8 strips plastic ?
they are a tight fit initially, the edge of the cassette is double thickness (safety edge) the plastic figure 8 simply pushes over the edge, which is tight and prevents it coming off inadvertently.

if you push one end on first the figure 8 fits easily over the safety edge

once the initial resistance is overcome the figure 8 strips are not tight on the wind out cassette, I fitted some helicopter tape to the front face of mine, although the figure 8 clips have not marked the tape

edit, as said above do not sand, check the size of the figure 8 strips
 
No need to sand!...Your connector might be the wrong size, get one of these; It can also be used on the other side - non roller awning side of the van (you just slide two of the strips into the channel), which comes in handy when its warmer as you can still enjoy an open view from the roller awning & then put the freestanding awning on the other side of the van:

It's difficult to tell from the picture but it's the 6mm from Vango. I'll try the Dometic and let you know if there is any difference.
 
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