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cleaning Cali

Grant Foster

Grant Foster

Messages
27
Location
Scotland
Vehicle
T6 Ocean 150
silly question....

but whats the best way to clean the Cali? I was thinking about getting the Karcher K7 or K5 power hose, and use all over (including roof, alloys etc).

besides cleaning it, should i wax/polish it? what with?

sorry I'm pretty clueless at this stuff

thanks
g
 
silly question....

but whats the best way to clean the Cali? I was thinking about getting the Karcher K7 or K5 power hose, and use all over (including roof, alloys etc).

besides cleaning it, should i wax/polish it? what with?

sorry I'm pretty clueless at this stuff

thanks
g

Pressure washers are good for getting off stubborn marks ie tree sap and bird poo, just don’t get too close to the paintwork with the nozzle or you might end up taking the top coat of laqer off! Some karcher machines also have a bottle built in so that you can use it for snow foaming etc, it just makes it that bit easier.
As for polishes etc, I use a website call cleanmycar.co.uk, there is an array of decent equipment on here, however your local Halfords will sell auto Glym and the like. I use meguires (I used to show old mk2 golfs) and have a lot left over so will be using this on my cali. A good wax once or twice a year a year will see you right and give it the protection it needs.
Ensure you wash under the wheel arches near to where the lip meets the wing and get all grime out as this can lead to rot over a few years if left to build up.
Hope this helps, let me know if you need any more pointers, no problem.
 
silly question....

but whats the best way to clean the Cali? I was thinking about getting the Karcher K7 or K5 power hose, and use all over (including roof, alloys etc).

besides cleaning it, should i wax/polish it? what with?

sorry I'm pretty clueless at this stuff

thanks
g
Pressure washer + Sliding side windows can lead to leaking windows.
I just use a hose and plenty of water to soften any stubborn grime etc: then a lambswool mitten and Autoglym products inside and out.
 
Likewise, I don’t use a pressure washer. My routine is like this. Wet van, use a car wash/wax product in a bucket of water, wash with sponge and wheel brush, rinse with hose (incl under wheel arches), wipe dry. Takes about an hour.


Charles
 
Another heads up for the pressure sprays.
Don't go closer than half a meter.
Going back some 15 years I took some of the lacquer coat off my wife's BMW 320 coupe trying to blast off dried bird sh+t from the bonnet. I was probably 20cm away on the narrowest jet.

Commercial car cleaners use a much wider jet and are careful not to get too close and constantly move it around ...
 
Likewise, I don’t use a pressure washer. My routine is like this. Wet van, use a car wash/wax product in a bucket of water, wash with sponge and wheel brush, rinse with hose (incl under wheel arches), wipe dry. Takes about an hour.


Charles
Wow!
An hour?
Thats quick. I use your method on a smaller vehicle and the wheels can take nearly that amount of time let alone the body and all it's crevices. Good Job Charles.
 
Wow!
An hour?
Thats quick. I use your method on a smaller vehicle and the wheels can take nearly that amount of time let alone the body and all it's crevices. Good Job Charles.
No, an hour tops. Roof included. Mind you it spends more time dirty than clean, but normally a quick wash weekly depending on weather. NEVER when travelling, just windows then.
Must be doing something right. As it is almost 3 years old it’s going into our local car valet, for super vacuuming, steam clean the carpets wash and wax etc. Took it down for a quote as I didn’t know if he would do a California, normally BMW/ Audi/Range Rover/Jaguar etc.
He couldn’t believe it had done 60,000 Miles was 3 yrs old and was slept in and cooked in very, very frequently as it was in such good condition and clean, inside and out. Didn’t know that VW made such a vehicle. And now he wants one.
 
Well it seems I need to up my game then :D
 
I just started using the AutoGlym line and two bucket method. It is very easy and very effective. With a really nice result. I got a starterkit. There is a guide how to use it. And there are also a lot guides on youtube.

https://www.autoglym.com/bodywork-wheels-interior-collection

I used a Nilfisk pressure washer with soap dispenser before. But you still need to go over the whole car with a brush. Today I just use a hose to soak the dirt, and the two buckets and a microfiber glove.

Starting with the rims. Then the full body, rinse, dry with a cloth, polish and windows. Then vacuum clean interior and clean. Clean plastic parts with cloth and finally windows. Once in a while, I go deeper and to a second polish coating, clean inside the closets and drawers too and do an engine wash. It takes around two hours in total.
 
Pressure washer + Sliding side windows can lead to leaking windows.
I just use a hose and plenty of water to soften any stubborn grime etc: then a lambswool mitten and Autoglym products inside and out.
I also use a hose first then the 2 bucket method using a lambs wool mitten and this seems to work very well. I use a good quality shampoo but I can't remember the name.

What is a good method / product for cleaning the inside of the windscreen. I have always struggle to get this rightt. Is anything different needed for laminated glass?
 
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Ceramic coatings are the new wax but cost quite a lot. A decent sealant once applied should give at least 3months protection & also make it a lot quicker/easier to clean. Carbon collective do a good one

http://carboncollective.com/product/oracle/
 
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I also use a hose first then the 2 bucket method using a lambs wool mitten and this seems to work very well. I use a good quality shampoo but I can't remember the name.

What is a good method / product for cleaning the inside of the windscreen. I have always struggle to get this rightt. Is anything different needed for laminated glass?
I use Autoglym Fastglass, but still a pain, easier to get a satisfactory finish in winter, less sun to show reflections and wipe marks.
 
Firstly, what colour is your Cali? In my experience darker colours need much more work to keep them looking at there best, especially if you live in a hard water area. If it's Black then it could look pristine when finished if you've used the right technique but then only for a nano second.

Never wash your van on a hot sunny day otherwise it will end up being a struggle and it won't look great when finished as the suds will dry on the paintwork before you can rinse them off. If it's black it is a nightmare. The best conditions for washing are wet rainy days but at the very least overcast and cool weather. You need the body to stay wet preferably with pure rain water and not tap water containing calcium deposits etc.

I personally use the two bucket method which works very well for me. Get yourself two large buckets with a raised grid at the bottom of each. They sell them on Ebay. Thoroughly jet wash the van first to remove all surface grit and grime etc. Use a wide spray, never a concentrated jet, and don't go closer than half a meter from the van. Make sure you thoroughly do under the wheel arches as well. Use one bucket to wash and when the sponge or wash mitt needs re-wetting rinse in the second bucket containing clean water. Then re-soak the sponge in the wash bucket. Any dirt and grit on the sponge or wash mitt should end up in the bottom of the rinse bucket beneath the grid and out of harms way. Use a good make of car washing product. Never use washing up liquid.

Start with the roof. You will need a stable step ladder but better still a step platform to work on. Don't try and over reach as it could end in tears. It's best to use one of those long handled soft car washing brushes on the roof as getting to the middle can be a bit of a stretch. Once washed thoroughly, jet wash off.

Then do the upper part of the body work and windows down to the waste line. Use a sponge or wash mitt only for this and the rest of the body work. Then wash that off thoughly. Be carefull not to direct the jet washer at the gaps around the sliding windows for any length of time or you could have water ingress.

Then wash the lower portion of the bodywork making sure that you regularly rinse out the sponge and re-soak in the washing water. This lower portion of the body work usually gets very dirty and needs that extra bit of cleaning. At this point you can open the doors and wash the door jams and sills with the sponge. Then close the doors and jet wash the whole lot off. Direct the jet washer to the door shut gaps to wash out of the suds from the door shuts.

Finally wash the wheels and tyres. It's best to have a stool for this as it takes a while to do them properly. I use three different sized wheel wands which are like fluffy sausages on sticks. Again you can get them on Ebay or from an automotive cleaning suppliers. First jet wash the wheels to geat the worst off then use the remaining soapy solution to thoroughly clean the wheels on the outer face and on the inner face with the wands. I also have an Autoglym wheel brush which is very useful for cleaning in the difficult crevices like round the wheel nuts and tyre valve. You could use a paint brush but I would wrap the metal collar with gaffer tape or it might cause scratches. Never use corrosive wheel cleaners as they will escalate corrosion if the wheel is damaged in anyway. Finally jet wash off.

If it is still raining when you have finished washing then it's job done. If not then use clean micro fibre cloths to towel it dry. This is a must if you have a black van as every mark will show. These clothes are very cheap to buy, very effective and much better than the traditional wash leather. I suggest keeping a stack of them purely for drying the van. They come in various colours and I would suggest using specific colours for specific jobs, i.e Blue for cleaning windows and green for drying the paintwork. Use a different colour for applying and removing polish. Washing them never fully removes the residue of the polish and you don't want that on your windscreen.

I usually give our van a good thorough coating of quality car wax twice a year, once in the spring and again in the autumn after first having given it a thorough wash and dry. Include the alloy wheels as it offers them some protection as well.

Finally, as we live in the country our van gets properly plastered in muck of all kinds on a regular basis especially during the winter months. I don't wash the van in this manner every week but instead do it thoroughly on roughly a monthly basis. However, I take the vehicle to the local jet wash every week and blast of the muck and grime from every where but especially the brake dust from the wheels and salt from underneath and bodywork. I only use the cold jet wash function. IMO, never use the wash brush at these establishments as they get used on all sorts of vehicles from builders pick up trucks to mud plastered off roaders. You can't be sure that they won't scratch your paintwork.
 
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Albanians at Tesco. Nice bucket of cold grey water. £5. Done.
 
Has anyone put their Cali through a car wash?

I was filling up at my local garage a couple of days ago and noticed a transporter being put through their car wash :shocked

Would the awning cause difficulties?
 
Has anyone put their Cali through a car wash?

I was filling up at my local garage a couple of days ago and noticed a transporter being put through their car wash :shocked

Would the awning cause difficulties?
Noooooooooooooooo! :Nailbiting

It would cause difficulties if it was out.
 
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Has anyone put their Cali through a car wash?

I was filling up at my local garage a couple of days ago and noticed a transporter being put through their car wash :shocked

Would the awning cause difficulties?
Never, Ever consider putting a Cali thro a car wash. I have witnessed a car mirrors being ripped off and know of other incidents of damage.
You love your Albert so hand wash only. I would never use a power washer except to apply snow foam prior to hand wash and then microfibre towel dry.
 
I did have visions of the awning spinning through the air!

Albert will only ever be hand washed. Whose hands though I am not particular about
 
I have done it several times (sorry to admit). Even with the roof racks on. Removed roof box and bike rack though ;-)

But make sure the machine is suited for the size. Now I have become more gentle, so only washing by hand, with rose leaves and candlelights.
 
I heard of a couple being gassed whilst using a car wash!

That actually true!

Don't use the ones where you sit in the car during the wash, the day after you had a kale feist … good to know! You might not make it …
 
Firstly, what colour is your Cali? In my experience darker colours need much more work to keep them looking at there best, especially if you live in a hard water area. If it's Black then it could look pristine when finished if you've used the right technique but then only for a nano second.

Never wash your van on a hot sunny day otherwise it will end up being a struggle and it won't look great when finished as the suds will dry on the paintwork before you can rinse them off. If it's black it is a nightmare. The best conditions for washing are wet rainy days but at the very least overcast and cool weather. You need the body to stay wet preferably with pure rain water and not tap water containing calcium deposits etc.

I personally use the two bucket method which works very well for me. Get yourself two large buckets with a raised grid at the bottom of each. They sell them on Ebay. Thoroughly jet wash the van first to remove all surface grit and grime etc. Use a wide spray, never a concentrated jet, and don't go closer than half a meter from the van. Make sure you thoroughly do under the wheel arches as well. Use one bucket to wash and when the sponge or wash mitt needs re-wetting rinse in the second bucket containing clean water. Then re-soak the sponge in the wash bucket. Any dirt and grit on the sponge or wash mitt should end up in the bottom of the rinse bucket beneath the grid and out of harms way. Use a good make of car washing product. Never use washing up liquid.

Start with the roof. You will need a stable step ladder but better still a step platform to work on. Don't try and over reach as it could end in tears. It's best to use one of those long handled soft car washing brushes on the roof as getting to the middle can be a bit of a stretch. Once washed thoroughly, jet wash off.

Then do the upper part of the body work and windows down to the waste line. Use a sponge or wash mitt only for this and the rest of the body work. Then wash that off thoughly. Be carefull not to direct the jet washer at the gaps around the sliding windows for any length of time or you could have water ingress.

Then wash the lower portion of the bodywork making sure that you regularly rinse out the sponge and re-soak in the washing water. This lower portion of the body work usually gets very dirty and needs that extra bit of cleaning. At this point you can open the doors and wash the door jams and sills with the sponge. Then close the doors and jet wash the whole lot off. Direct the jet washer to the door shut gaps to wash out of the suds from the door shuts.

Finally wash the wheels and tyres. It's best to have a stool for this as it takes a while to do them properly. I use three different sized wheel wands which are like fluffy sausages on sticks. Again you can get them on Ebay or from an automotive cleaning suppliers. First jet wash the wheels to geat the worst off then use the remaining soapy solution to thoroughly clean the wheels on the outer face and on the inner face with the wands. I also have an Autoglym wheel brush which is very useful for cleaning in the difficult crevices like round the wheel nuts and tyre valve. You could use a paint brush but I would wrap the metal collar with gaffer tape or it might cause scratches. Never use corrosive wheel cleaners as they will escalate corrosion if the wheel is damaged in anyway. Finally jet wash off.

If it is still raining when you have finished washing then it's job done. If not then use clean micro fibre cloths to towel it dry. This is a must if you have a black van as every mark will show. These clothes are very cheap to buy, very effective and much better than the traditional wash leather. I suggest keeping a stack of them purely for drying the van. They come in various colours and I would suggest using specific colours for specific jobs, i.e Blue for cleaning windows and green for drying the paintwork. Use a different colour for applying and removing polish. Washing them never fully removes the residue of the polish and you don't want that on your windscreen.

I usually give our van a good thorough coating of quality car wax twice a year, once in the spring and again in the autumn after first having given it a thorough wash and dry. Include the alloy wheels as it offers them some protection as well.

Finally, as we live in the country our van gets properly plastered in muck of all kinds on a regular basis especially during the winter months. I don't wash the van in this manner every week but instead do it thoroughly on roughly a monthly basis. However, I take the vehicle to the local jet wash every week and blast of the muck and grime from every where but especially the brake dust from the wheels and salt from underneath and bodywork. I only use the cold jet wash function. IMO, never use the wash brush at these establishments as they get used on all sorts of vehicles from builders pick up trucks to mud plastered off roaders. You can't be sure that they won't scratch your paintwork.


I agree with Boris and do the same approach. Have spent most of my life in the car refinish paint business his approach is about as good as you can get. I use a pre wash foam as well, just before the first rinse off with the pressure washer at a good distance from the paint. I find it helps soften the dirt but you need to rinse it off well. I recommend Bilt Hamber shampoo for the buckets - looks expensive but you use very little and it rinses off brilliantly - I use a syringe to measure the 5cc.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/7392461117/?tag=eliteelect-21

I also have a separate bucket for the wheels to ensure that the wheel cleaning tools and sponges etc never contaminate the bodywork cleaning items. A separate small microfibre for the wheels is also used.
 
I agree with Boris and do the same approach. Have spent most of my life in the car refinish paint business his approach is about as good as you can get. I use a pre wash foam as well, just before the first rinse off with the pressure washer at a good distance from the paint. I find it helps soften the dirt but you need to rinse it off well. I recommend Bilt Hamber shampoo for the buckets - looks expensive but you use very little and it rinses off brilliantly - I use a syringe to measure the 5cc.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/7392461117/?tag=eliteelect-21

I also have a separate bucket for the wheels to ensure that the wheel cleaning tools and sponges etc never contaminate the bodywork cleaning items. A separate small microfibre for the wheels is also used.
Hello Fast Freddie,
I also use a pre wash snow foam but only when it is caked in grime and when the car is able to stay wet. I am sure that you are already aware but I have noticed that it can leave marks if it either drys on or isn't thoroughly rinsed off.
Also, because we live in a hard water area, I also do a finish rinse using filtered water. I filter it through a meter long inline filter. It leaves the van in a good state for toweling off. Less water marks and easy to get a spot free finish. The trouble with these filters is that they are expensive, degrade quickly if exposed to direct sunlight and don't last that long. It might sound rather fussy but calcium water marks can be difficult to shift especially on dark paint colours.
 

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