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Clutch …… here we go….

Azteccamper

Azteccamper

VIP Member
Messages
1,140
Location
Swansea Valley.
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
Just jumped in Cali and touched the clutched which just flopped to the floor - nothing. Got the RAC out and confirmed it was probably the slave cylinder (possibly seals). No signs of leaks and a full tank of clutch/brake fluid. Low loaded to garage and I’m waiting to be told the following:
Slave cylinder gone. It’s in the bell housing so got to drop gearbox. If you drop gearbox you might as well renew clutch (currently on 45k miles - 2012 model T5.1). If you fit a new clutch and bits you should really do the DMF at the same time.
Am I missing anything?
So we are now discussing whether my wife has the clutch or the dmf for Christmas?
 
DMF & Labour to Wife as it it co-relates to her value to you.
 
Just jumped in Cali and touched the clutched which just flopped to the floor - nothing. Got the RAC out and confirmed it was probably the slave cylinder (possibly seals). No signs of leaks and a full tank of clutch/brake fluid. Low loaded to garage and I’m waiting to be told the following:
Slave cylinder gone. It’s in the bell housing so got to drop gearbox. If you drop gearbox you might as well renew clutch (currently on 45k miles - 2012 model T5.1). If you fit a new clutch and bits you should really do the DMF at the same time.
Am I missing anything?
So we are now discussing whether my wife has the clutch or the dmf for Christmas?
At only 45k miles? That's no life on a commercial van. Shame on you VW. I would be interested in prices you are quoted for the options
 
I guess age & mileage are both factors. 45k miles not much for a commercial van but 9 years is quite old and some things (eg seals) may deteriorate through age as much as mileage.
45k miles in 9 years would definitely be an outlier in terms of a use case for a commercial vehicle.
 
I wouldn't bother with the DMF, if it was the clutch that had failed I would, but in this instance its just an unrelated hydraulic failure & at 45k the DMF should be fine for another 100k or so unless its already rattling.
 
Mine did the same at 7 years/95,000 miles. bit the bullet and replaced clutch and DMF, but at 45,000 miles might not have done DMF
 
Thanks all. Changed my DMF with the clutch on my last T5 but that had done 75k+ miles. I await their ‘diagnosis’ with excitement.
 
share your pain
same thing on way to a festival...
we just took chance to renew clutch whilst gearbox dropped
expensive .... but peace of mind etc...
 
Just jumped in Cali and touched the clutched which just flopped to the floor - nothing. Got the RAC out and confirmed it was probably the slave cylinder (possibly seals). No signs of leaks and a full tank of clutch/brake fluid. Low loaded to garage and I’m waiting to be told the following:
Slave cylinder gone. It’s in the bell housing so got to drop gearbox. If you drop gearbox you might as well renew clutch (currently on 45k miles - 2012 model T5.1). If you fit a new clutch and bits you should really do the DMF at the same time.
Am I missing anything?
So we are now discussing whether my wife has the clutch or the dmf for Christmas?
Mine went at 7 years old and 52k miles. Slave cylinder and clutch replaced. The garage reckoned the DMF was ok..
 
Mine went at 7 years old and 52k miles. Slave cylinder and clutch replaced. The garage reckoned the DMF was ok..
I think I’ll probably go the same way. It was the suddenness that surprised me. At least it went sitting on my drive.
 
Just jumped in Cali and touched the clutched which just flopped to the floor - nothing. Got the RAC out and confirmed it was probably the slave cylinder (possibly seals). No signs of leaks and a full tank of clutch/brake fluid. Low loaded to garage and I’m waiting to be told the following:
Slave cylinder gone. It’s in the bell housing so got to drop gearbox. If you drop gearbox you might as well renew clutch (currently on 45k miles - 2012 model T5.1). If you fit a new clutch and bits you should really do the DMF at the same time.
Am I missing anything?
So we are now discussing whether my wife has the clutch or the dmf for Christmas?
As you are going to be in there already, give serious thought to replacing the engine rear main crankshaft seal and also the input shaft seal on the transmission. If either of these two seals fail you will be having to do the job a third time to replace an oil-contaminated clutch. The seals are not terrible expensive, but the engine main seal is a PTFE material that requires a specific clean procedure.
 
Mine also. However it wasn’t the slave cylinder, my mechanic when to bleed the system just to check before taking everything apart and found it to be an O ring in the bleed line had failed. £91 job done, including towing to the workshop.
 
Sounds like my issue too. Argh!!
 
My manual Cali (90k) has developed a click when starting to raise the clutch, but gear changes are OK. I did a quick internet search which suggests it could be the clutch release bearing that needs changing. Just wondered whether any one here has had the same clicking noise, and what it ultimately led to in terms of part replacements, as the suggestion is that although it is a very cheap part, you might as well get the clutch, DMF etc etc done at the same time due to the labour involved in changing the part. Thanks.
 
My manual Cali (90k) has developed a click when starting to raise the clutch, but gear changes are OK. I did a quick internet search which suggests it could be the clutch release bearing that needs changing. Just wondered whether any one here has had the same clicking noise, and what it ultimately led to in terms of part replacements, as the suggestion is that although it is a very cheap part, you might as well get the clutch, DMF etc etc done at the same time due to the labour involved in changing the part. Thanks.
I don't have the clicking, but as the owner of one of the two T5 Calis in all of British Columbia I didn't want to go through the work and labour of pulling everything apart more than once, so just bit the bullet and did the DMF, clutch, release bearing, but additionally the engine main seal and tranny input shaft seal. The seals are a minor cost and may as well get rejuvenated at the same time as well, for the same reasons as doing the DMF. Be aware that the main seal has a specific installation process and cleanliness regimen as it is a PTFE seal and the clean surface is essential to the seal bonding to the crank. No "just slobber it up with grease"!!
 
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Thanks Doug. Good advice - not so good for the wallet if it doesn't sort itself out!
 
I had no warning of my clutch failure. No audible warning or reduction in performance.

Fortunately I had great service from a garage in Bury St Edmunds and Bluey is back on the road again.

The following work set me back just under £700

“Strip out and remove gearbox and components. Replace complete clutch kit, refit gearbox, Road test.”
 
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