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Fix your Control Panel Display Problem?

2CV67

2CV67

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I notice that Control Panel Display Failures are a recurring problem on this forum & the French forum I also watch.

Recently, somebody (Pulsart) on the French forum described a DIY repair & several others have now reported success with this method.
So if you have the problem & don't fancy spending several hundred pounds on a replacement, it may be worth a try. (At your own risk!)

The instructions are in French, but the pictures should be enough & you can always use G**gle Translate or such like.

http://www.t5calif.info/forum/viewtopic.php?p=63687#p63687

Scroll further down for continued instructions in a subsequent post and a similar repair by a recognized forum "expert" (Abilly).

The principle seems to be to use the screen frame to keep the ribbon contacts in good compression via solid & elastic spacers.
Although a soldering iron is shown at one point, the contacts ARE NOT RESOLDERED, just warmed to about 90°C & pressed down.

Please report here if this works (or not!) for you.

Note: this method does not involve cutting the connector ribbon, like a previously-posted method here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-remove-and-re-attach-LCD-Ribbon-from-a-PCB-/?ALLSTEPS

I have not tried either method myself (& don't have the problem yet...)
 
Pulsart

Pulsart

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Hi,
I am new to this forum. I registered here because I think my knowledge in electronics can be useful for others.
Recently, I fixed my control panel display because some horizontal lines disappeared...
After that I have written a tutorial for fixing it on the French forum (http://www.t5calif.info) as reported by 2CV67 ;).
I have translated this tutorial with my poor English skills....

This solution is very simple and not destructive for the control panel as the one described on instructables.com.

An elastic rubber and a piece of electric wire will do the job.
So a little less expensive than a new console unit...


This lines loss come from poor contact of the flat cable connecting the printed circuit board (PCB) to the LCD module.
Large variations in temperature can cause the glue connecting the flat cable to move.

The flat cable of the LCD is not welded on the PCB, it is GLUED !!!! : so do not try to heat it with a soldering iron as you may read on some forums !!! The only thing that will happened is the melting of the flat cable.

In fact, a simple compression of the flat cable against the PCB will do the job. There is no need of a huge strength, to establish the contacts.

I will explain you the procedure in detail:

- Uninstall the console unit as described in the manual (see procedure to manually close the roof)
- Disconnect the connectors GENTLY, especially the two small connectors which the cables are fragile.
- For the large connector, rotate the purple lever before pulling it...
- Once unplugged, open the module gently inserting a small blade in the slots and unclip the plastic lugs one by one over the entire periphery of the console. The plastic is fragile, so be careful ...
- Oh, and also, do not open this module if your warranty still on-going, you will lose it...



- Once opened, use caution, the two parts of the console unit are connected by two flat cables. Disconnect the two white flat cables by pushing gently on the edge of the connectors (red arrows), and separate the two circuits.


- Unscrew the four small screws. If like me you do not have the right tool, a clamp tool can do the job (watch out the flat cables!).

- Now we will open the LCD by spinning the fixing lugs of the metal case.


- Once done, lift the metal case GENTLY and put it on the side. Be careful, the LCD is now only no longer fixed on the PCB and the only thing that old it is a fragile flat ribbon cable. It would be a shame to break it...

- After that you can finally see the mentioned flat cable that causes the horizontal lines to disappear.

- Do not panic if you see the LCD moving on the PCB. There is a connector (gold traces) on either side of the LCD ; these are the connectors which control the vertical lines of the display. The contact between the LCD and the circuit is done by two rubber bands that have a conductive core. When you will put the metal case back in place, the LCD will be again centered correctly on its connectors.

- This is not mandatory, but I warmed up the flat cable connector with a small air gun for electronics at a temperature of 90 ° C moving from left to right to dissipate the heat on the connector and pressing, Once hot, with a ruler. Just press, do not rub!

- Then take rubber band or an elastic (the kind ones to tie asparagus boots) or an other piece of rubber that will not change shape with heat, about 2 to 2.5 mm thick. Cut strips of the width of the flat cable and about 4mm wide.

- Take a piece of electric wire of about 3mm in diameter and cut to the same length and insert it in the fold of the flat cable.

- Once it's done, make a stack of your elastic pieces (two under the flat cable and one on the top) and make sure that the thickness of this sandwich is just slightly above the height of the LCD (0.5 to 1mm). If it is just-right, pull out the electric cable and wrap a few turns of tape on it, this will slightly enlarge its diameter...


- Everything must enters in the LCD metal housing effortlessly, so if the rubber pieces are too large, just cut a little.

- And here we are ready repack everything together and hope it works.

I'll spare you the steps for the reassembly, since it is the same as the previous steps, but reversed ...
However, a last good tip is to make the metal lugs on the LCD box are correctly spinned and force a bit with the clamp tool to give the maximum strength on the PCB.
It will also give more force applied to the two connectors on either side of the LCD.

And now, my console unit looks as new and it cost me a rubber band and half an hour of my time.
I hope my DIY held long and yours too. :thumb



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Last edited:
calikev

calikev

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Great post thank you for sharing your knowledge:thumb
 
WelshGas

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Excellent. Can the post be made a Sticky?
 
calikev

calikev

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Not sure why this post got locked it was in error. All open now and thanks for posting
 
Pulsart

Pulsart

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So since October nobody has tried?!?
I am a bit disapointed...
My console is working perfectly since six month...
 
hotel california

hotel california

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Glad to hear nobody needed to do it i would think....
Knock on wood ....

Great post btw ...thankx for that!
 
ArunAlec

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Very informative, thank you. I like the protector. Is that a DIY job or can they be bought? It's only a matter of time until my panel gets a knock!
 
hotel california

hotel california

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Pulsart

Pulsart

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Very informative, thank you. I like the protector. Is that a DIY job or can they be bought? It's only a matter of time until my panel gets a knock!


Yes, I have designed this protection myself :)and printed it in 3D through a professional company. It is in black coloured plastic, but can be printed in white, blue, red, yellow, green, purple and orange :).
This protection is a very good way to protect the knob...
I was in Sardinia for two weeks and it saved the life of my control panel twice of my girlfriend's head...

It is still a prototype, but fits perfectly the control panel. It is stuck to it using a very strong double sided tape and does not move at all.
If enough people are interested, I may produce a small batch. As it is 3D printed, it is not possible to produce lots of pieces and I have not planed yet to do this commercially...
 
WelshGas

WelshGas

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Yes, I have designed this protection myself :)and printed it in 3D through a professional company. It is in black coloured plastic, but can be printed in white, blue, red, yellow, green, purple and orange :).
This protection is a very good way to protect the knob...
I was in Sardinia for two weeks and it saved the life of my control panel twice of my girlfriend's head...

It is still a prototype, but fits perfectly the control panel. It is stuck to it using a very strong double sided tape and does not move at all.
If enough people are interested, I may produce a small batch. As it is 3D printed, it is not possible to produce lots of pieces and I have not planed yet to do this commercially...
I am interested. I think in RED as a warning.:thumb
 
Pulsart

Pulsart

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Hi, I have designed a new version of the control panel protection that should be stronger and easier to install.
The new one is fully in plastic without the metallic tube on the bottom.
Here it is:

As soon as I receive the prototype, I will let you know how to order it.
The price for one piece should be around 24€.

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WelshGas

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SimonB

SimonB

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Could you put me on the list for one as well please.
Many thanks Simon
 
Z

zoki

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Am I missing something here? Why would I need this on my new Cali? It looks rather ugly in black
 

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