Fridge doesn't like leisure battery

[Sp0_0k]

My fridge has a low voltage protection as most modern fridges do and tends to turn off when leisure battery is at pretty high voltage.
- I have a voltmeter sitting constantly in a socket under the bench near the side sliding door.
Even with 12.6-12.8 volts readings the fridge is starting and going off with a low battery error.
I was about to start blaming the fridge with its voltage protection cap too high (it is set on lowest possible)
Though it runs perfectly smooth from my extra gel leisure battery. Which is now below 12.6 volts.

Though when fridge is starting from the cali's leisure battery I don't see a big voltage drop on the 2nd socket. Doesn't go below 12.7 volts. I suppose each socket should be "directly" connected to leisure battery or is it not?
Is there any extra electronics involved between the leisure battery and sockets?
I know there is at least a switch for the alternator power to feed the sockets directly when engine is on. Fridge works perfectly in this case. Anything else might be messing there?

 

[owen_h]

How long is the fly lead between the socket you are using and the fridge? And does it look like it is of a reasonable cross sectional area? Most of the voltage drop issues are due to insufficient csa of the wiring. Is it possible to measure the voltage at the end of the flylead? You say the voltage at the 2nd socket is 12.6-12.8, is this the socket you are using to power the fridge? Might be worth trying different sockets.
If you were installing 12v wiring specifically for a fridge then a cable of 6 sq mm would probably be needed over any sort of distance from the battery.
The rear sockets will almost certainly be fed (on the +ve side) via a fused buss bar. On the T5 this is under the left hand seat I think.Doubt if there is any other switching going on. The increased voltage you see with the engine running is the alternator charging the leisure battery.

 

[WelshGas]

Are you sure the socket used for the fridge is served by the same battery as the socket you are monitoring the voltage on. One Forum member has the kitchen socket powered by the engine battery, on a SE.

 

[Rich20]

I have a installed a dedicated 12v Din type socket from RoadPro and this is connected directly to my leisure battery using 6mm cable. I found the accessory plug and socket were getting very warm which hinted at wasted energy so hence the change. The socket is at the side of the passenger seat. The fridge either sits behind the seat or in the boot as the supplied cable is long enough. I have not had any problems using this set up.

 

[Sp0_0k]

How long is the fly lead between the socket you are using and the fridge? And does it look like it is of a reasonable cross sectional area? Most of the voltage drop issues are due to insufficient csa of the wiring. Is it possible to measure the voltage at the end of the flylead? You say the voltage at the 2nd socket is 12.6-12.8, is this the socket you are using to power the fridge? Might be worth trying different sockets.
If you were installing 12v wiring specifically for a fridge then a cable of 6 sq mm would probably be needed over any sort of distance from the battery.
The rear sockets will almost certainly be fed (on the +ve side) via a fused buss bar. On the T5 this is under the left hand seat I think.Doubt if there is any other switching going on. The increased voltage you see with the engine running is the alternator charging the leisure battery.

Yea tried that 2nd socket with same result. And pretty sure both are connected to same single leisure battery. Gonna try measure the voltage directly on the fridge.
I think that voltage in sockets during engine running is direct from alternator. Because it is too high for charging voltage and can damage battery. I suppose you dont have a direct draw from the battery with engine on.

 

[WelshGas]

Yea tried that 2nd socket with same result. And pretty sure both are connected to same single leisure battery. Gonna try measure the voltage directly on the fridge.
I think that voltage in sockets during engine running is direct from alternator. Because it is too high for charging voltage and can damage battery. I suppose you dont have a direct draw from the battery with engine on.

The alternator puts out 14.4 volts which charges the Starter/Engine battery and when charged sufficiently the split charge relay circuit diverts this charging voltage to the Leisure Battery.

http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/split-charging.html

 

[Sp0_0k]

Did you measure voltage in leisure sockets during the ride?

 

[WelshGas]

Did you measure voltage in leisure sockets during the ride?

Yes. About 5-10 minutes after engine start (depending how fast the engine is revving) the leisure socket voltage climbs to 14.4v.
The Engine Battery powered socket, on mine the cigarette lighter socket in the drinks holder tray, shows 14.4 volts immediately the engine is at idling speed.

 

[sidepod]

Does sound like a volt drop issue to me.

 

[MattBW]

I had a parking heater fitted last week by Slidepods (thanks Jonny) and we discovered that although the manual and brochure says my beach has an 68ah AGM battery it was in fact a 80ah lead acid that was in there. It certainly explained why I got more from my battery than I thought should have been possible.

I do however have a similar experience to you with my Waeco, The cut out will come on after about a day and regularly cut in. High on my waeco is only intended for use on starter batteries, med and below on leisure ones. Do you have an option to do this?

I set mine to medium and do still get the cut outs due to voltage drop. However it quickly recovers and will continue to work for a couple of days and still keeps temp. When the fridge takes a big draw it sometimes seems to cause a voltage drop. I just thought it was normal so haven't worried about it? Now wondering if I should be.

The bit that stands out for me is that my beach only kicks out 14v when under braking or decelerating. Most of the time its between 12 and 13, part of blue motion I believe. If the battery voltage is particularly low after say heavy use I have noticed the alternator will kick in fully and hit that 14v, which may be what you are seeing?

 

[AlanC]

How are you guys monitoring all of these voltages while you are driving?

Alan

 

[WelshGas]

How are you guys monitoring all of these voltages while you are driving?

Alan

One of these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262237851935?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The TOP Dashboard socket is powered by the Leisure Battery.

The socket in the Cupholder is powered by the Engine Battery. At least it is on my vehicle.

 

[Sp0_0k]

Solved with thicker wires. The best solution mentioned here is to get the sickest wires directly on the battery.

 

[Loz]

Solved with thicker wires. The best solution mentioned here is to get the sickest wires directly on the battery.

With a fuse close to the battery end I hope?

 

[MattBW]

One of these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262237851935?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The TOP Dashboard socket is powered by the Leisure Battery.

The socket in the Cupholder is powered by the Engine Battery. At least it is on my vehicle.

They are good as a general guide but worth checking they're good with a voltmeter.

One of mine was half a volt out which thankfully kindly refunded


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[WelshGas]

They are good as a general guide but worth checking they're good with a voltmeter.

One of mine was half a volt out which thankfully kindly refunded


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Mine mimics the Control Panel readings so I'm happy with that.

 

[snowy55]

Solved with thicker wires. The best solution mentioned here is to get the sickest wires directly on the battery.

Were you using a homemade extension lead to run your fridge or was it the cable supplied with the fridge that was at fault?

 

[Sp0_0k]

Were you using a homemade extension lead to run your fridge or was it the cable supplied with the fridge that was at fault?

was using own thick cable which malfunctioned due to a weak male socket. Than replaced it with extention cable bought long ago. Turned out it had very thin cables that looked decent due to sick isolation.
Though that crap extension had a decent male socket which I soldered to my sick cable Always felt I might need that gas solder on the trips
Still like the idea of custom made socket running to the battery.