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Hard wiring CFX28

Amarillo

Amarillo

Tom
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Royal Borough of Greenwich
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T6 Beach 150
I have been having difficulty with my CFX28 fridge staying on. A quick tweak of the cigar lighter plug usually resolves the issue, but I am having to do this with increasing frequency. I decided to hard wire it direct to the leisure battery (a Beach has just one leisure battery under the passenger seat.)

For a reasonable cost of £12.67 I ordered a fused terminal to Anderson link and a single Anderson connector, see below together with the CFX28 12 volt lead.

IMG_2204.JPG

I removed the cigar lighter plug and replaced it with the Anderson connector.
IMG_2205.JPG

I successfully wired the whole thing up to the leisure battery. Voltage at the Anderson connecter was measured at 13.34 Volts. Voltage at the CFX28 plug was measured at 13.21 Volts.

Unfortunately, when I plug in the fridge I get nothing.

The only thing I can think of is that I have managed to reverse positive and negative. The cable to the CFX28 plug is a double black wire. The only way to identify that they are different is a ridge on one of the two wires. 12 Volt convention appears to be that -ve is plain and +ve is marked, and I assumed this convention when wiring the Anderson connector to the CFX28 lead. Before I switch the wires in the Anderson connector, (which is fairly simple but fiddly), is there anything else I should be checking first.

Could I have damaged the fridge by wiring incorrectly?
 
If you reversed the polarity you may have the blown the fuse on the fridge..
Also check the pins in the anderson plugs are right at the edges (ie pushed in until they clicked.
 
If you reversed the polarity you may have the blown the fuse on the fridge..
Also check the pins in the anderson plugs are right at the edges (ie pushed in until they clicked.
The pins in the Anderson plugs are correctly inserted.

Based on what you said, there is no harm in reversing the +ve and -ve in the Anderson connector. If it was wrong damage may already have been done, so no harm in correcting it. If it was wired correctly, the fridge isn't working so no harm can be done by wiring it incorrectly.

I am happy to report that I have reversed the +ve and -ve and the fridge is now working. :)

The only thing I can say is how stupid it is of Dometic/Waeco to use a lead where the +ve and -ve wires are not clear and do not follow the usual convention for the marking of +ve and -ve 12 volt wires.
 
Not sure why this is separate to where some of us replied to your original Q? This topic should really be merged with the comprehensive one already on this subject as it will be really useful to keep it all together here:

3 way coolbox query / Hard wiring fridge to leisure battery

If you see a post I made there (bottom of page 1 - below) you just open the plug and then you can see which is pos/neg and it is also reversible without chopping things:

See images here:

3 way coolbox query / Hard wiring fridge to leisure battery
 
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You are probably correct. I created a new thread because I felt that the problem I was having was a separate issue from the previous discussion.

Moderators: please decide if the two threads should be merged.
 
When I hardwired my cool box I wasn’t sure of the polarity either so asked Dometic . This is the response they sent me.

“Hello Owen,
The lead has a ridge on one side this is the negative wire, you'll notice of the other side no ridge is present but there normally is writing, this is the positive.

Many thanks.
__________________________________________________
Technical UK
 
When I hardwired my cool box I wasn’t sure of the polarity either so asked Dometic . This is the response they sent me.

“Hello Owen,
The lead has a ridge on one side this is the negative wire, you'll notice of the other side no ridge is present but there normally is writing, this is the positive.
Clearly I was too hasty and made two obvious mistakes.
1. I had read Max-Felix's article and should have taken more care when removing the cigar plug.
2. I should have been certain before wiring the ridged cable to +ve. I did a cursory internet search, and while there are no rules about +ve and -ve markings it seemed to be the convention that marked was +ve. I was put off asking any questions by the response one person in a canal group got from asking the question about identifying +ve and -ve: "I must say If you don't know this very basic information are you sure you are able to do this correctly and confidently. I would imagine most school children would know that 12 volt colour code which is in everyday use in battery powered equipment as well as cars and smoke alarms."

I still think that Dometic/Waeco could make the +ve and -ve wires clear, or follow convention, without people having to ask.
 
In cases like this when I'm cutting off a plug, I always leave an inch of cable on the plug and then cut it off.
That way you can put a meter on the positive pin and test which wire is positive.
 
In cases like this when I'm cutting off a plug, I always leave an inch of cable on the plug and then cut it off,
That way you can put a meter on the positive pin and test which wire is positive.
Good tip

Other than changing 12 volt fuses, and helping my brother to fit my solar panels, this was the first time I'd done any 12 volt work. I didn't have a meter until yesterday afternoon when I dashed down to Screwfix and bought one for £7.99.

My next project is to make a double Anderson adaptor to plug into the fused battery to Anderson connector, then run a cable from that to outside the van via the tailgate wiring loom, and fix to the inside of the awning casing for external 12 volt power.
 
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Good tip

Other than changing 12 volt fuses, and helping my brother to fit my solar panels, this was the first time I'd done any 12 volt work. I didn't have a meter until yesterday afternoon when I dashed down to Screwfix and bought one for £7.99.

My next project is to make a double Anderson adaptor to plug into the fused battery to Anderson connector, then run a cable from that to outside the van via the tailgate wiring loom, and fix to the inside of the awning casing for external 12 volt power.
Will you be fitting an anderson plug to your 12V kettle? :)
 
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I have been having difficulty with my CFX28 fridge staying on. A quick tweak of the cigar lighter plug usually resolves the issue, but I am having to do this with increasing frequency. I decided to hard wire it direct to the leisure battery (a Beach has just one leisure battery under the passenger seat.)

For a reasonable cost of £12.67 I ordered a fused terminal to Anderson link and a single Anderson connector, see below together with the CFX28 12 volt lead

Hello Tom,
We have been having a similar issue with our CFX 35 12v power lead. If the cable is tweeked or the plug knocked off goes the fridge. Up until now the fridge has been positioned behind the passenger seat which would be ideal for your adaption. However we now have a pull out boot tray and the fridge will live in there from now on.

I'm considering doing a similar adaption but with the Anderson connector in the boot compartment. This would presumably involve running a new cable from the leisure battery to the rear compartment. I'm not an auto electrician and don't know if this would cause any issues such as voltage drop over the distance?Alternatively I'll just soldier on with the dodgy plug.

Where did you order the kit from?
 
Hi Borris - I'd check back to the 'main' topic linked above as I posted quite a few links in there about cable sizes, voltage drop etc. It is an issue to be aware of but not tricky to overcome - you just need a decent capacity (20 or 25 amp) thin wall auto cable (easy to find on eBay) that will take care of any potential drop. eg:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flat-Twi...c966f2780:m:muakuMbtVZLyRBp4GCmvQ8Q:rk:2:pf:0

Tom - if the external supply is just for say LEDs or low voltage stuff then it's very easy to tap into the loom in the OS rear corner:

To those who have fitted LED ribbon lighting under the awning...

If running an outside supply also consider using the ready hole/grommet under the leisure battery and then going under the front floor - this is what I plan with a waterproof capped socket under the driver's sill.

Using the IP68 waterproof connectors linked in post #99:
s-l1600.jpg
 
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Hello Tom,
We have been having a similar issue with our CFX 35 12v power lead. If the cable is tweeked or the plug knocked off goes the fridge. Up until now the fridge has been positioned behind the passenger seat which would be ideal for your adaption. However we now have a pull out boot tray and the fridge will live in there from now on.

I'm considering doing a similar adaption but with the Anderson connector in the boot compartment. This would presumably involve running a new cable from the leisure battery to the rear compartment. I'm not an auto electrician and don't know if this would cause any issues such as voltage drop over the distance?Alternatively I'll just soldier on with the dodgy plug.

Where did you order the kit from?
https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/

The cable I have from the leisure battery to the Anderson is fused with a massive 50 Amp fuse. This then splits from a single Anderson into two Andersons fused with 15 amps, one for the fridge ane one for the external lead.

Running a lead from the leisure battery to the tool box will be relatively simple, but I suggest you do what I did/am doing and leave a spare Anderson under the passenger seat so you can plug in the fridge there if needed occasionally.

1. Battery terminal to SB 50 Anderson, +ve wire 50 amp fused
2. Single SB50 Anderson to two SB50 Anderson, both +ve wires 15 amp fused.
All under front passenger seat
3. Anderson to Anderson extension lead (leisure battery to boot tool box compartment).
4. Anderson to CFX power lead.

Use decent cable - I'm using 4mm2 twinflex, and genuine silver plated Anderson terminals. Voltage drop should not be a problem. I reckon the voltage drop on my Anderson to CFX power lead is 0.15 volts, and as you know, it is quite a long lead.
 
https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/

The cable I have from the leisure battery to the Anderson is fused with a massive 50 Amp fuse. This then splits from a single Anderson into two Andersons fused with 15 amps, one for the fridge ane one for the external lead.

Running a lead from the leisure battery to the tool box will be relatively simple, but I suggest you do what I did/am doing and leave a spare Anderson under the passenger seat so you can plug in the fridge there if needed occasionally.

1. Battery terminal to SB 50 Anderson, +ve wire 50 amp fused
2. Single SB50 Anderson to two SB50 Anderson, both +ve wires 15 amp fused.
All under front passenger seat
3. Anderson to Anderson extension lead (leisure battery to boot tool box compartment).
4. Anderson to CFX power lead.

Use decent cable - I'm using 4mm2 twinflex, and genuine silver plated Anderson terminals. Voltage drop should not be a problem. I reckon the voltage drop on my Anderson to CFX power lead is 0.15 volts, and as you know, it is quite a long lead.
https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/

The cable I have from the leisure battery to the Anderson is fused with a massive 50 Amp fuse. This then splits from a single Anderson into two Andersons fused with 15 amps, one for the fridge ane one for the external lead.

Running a lead from the leisure battery to the tool box will be relatively simple, but I suggest you do what I did/am doing and leave a spare Anderson under the passenger seat so you can plug in the fridge there if needed occasionally.

1. Battery terminal to SB 50 Anderson, +ve wire 50 amp fused
2. Single SB50 Anderson to two SB50 Anderson, both +ve wires 15 amp fused.
All under front passenger seat
3. Anderson to Anderson extension lead (leisure battery to boot tool box compartment).
4. Anderson to CFX power lead.

Use decent cable - I'm using 4mm2 twinflex, and genuine silver plated Anderson terminals. Voltage drop should not be a problem. I reckon the voltage drop on my Anderson to CFX power lead is 0.15 volts, and as you know, it is quite a long lead.
Thanks Tom,
Very interesting. I think I shall order a kit and give it a go.

Many thanks.
 
Thanks Tom,
Very interesting. I think I shall order a kit and give it a go.
Making the cables is harder than I had anticipated.

Today I made a double adaptor from these components and with these tools.

IMG_2206.JPG

And the result:
IMG_2207.JPG

The fused link will be the usual feed to the fridge which is protected with a 7.5 amp fuse.

The uncapped link will feed, via an extension lead, to the boot tool box, where I could sometime in the future take a feed if required. From the boot tool box I will connect another extension lead, through the tailgate at the electrics loom, across the rear of the roof and into the awning casing through the plastic end cap.

The external feed can be used for lighting both inside the awning and outside for al fresco dining. The feed can also be used for the fridge if we decide to keep it in the kitchen area under the awning.

The cable I'm using is 4mm2 and has a maximum resistance of under 5 Ohms per 1000 metres, apparently rated for 12 volts and 39 amps (468 watts).

The battery to Anderson connector lead I made by crimping with pliers, possible but difficult and far from ideal. I have now invested in cheap crimpers which make the job easier but not easy.

My near sight is deteriorating fast, and I'm too tight to pay for an optician to make proper glasses for me; instead I buy off the shelf glasses from Boots. I'm hindered in close work by these ill fitting spectacles constantly falling off. Even if I were an octopus, I'm not sure I'd have sufficient arms for all the simultaneous things that need doing when crimping: two hands for the crimping pliers, one hand to hold the cable, one hand to hold the terminal onto the cable, one hand for my cup of tea, two hands to catch my glasses as they fall into my cup of tea, one hand to hold the instructions and one hand to mop my sweating brow in this unseasonally warm weather. As a result it took me about an hour to make this simple double adaptor. The cable boots are an optional extra at 78p each; the end caps £3.90 which I'm only using on ends that might be left unplugged.
 
Making the cables is harder than I had anticipated.

Today I made a double adaptor from these components and with these tools.

View attachment 38876

And the result:
View attachment 38877

The fused link will be the usual feed to the fridge which is protected with a 7.5 amp fuse.

The uncapped link will feed, via an extension lead, to the boot tool box, where I could sometime in the future take a feed if required. From the boot tool box I will connect another extension lead, through the tailgate at the electrics loom, across the rear of the roof and into the awning casing through the plastic end cap.

The external feed can be used for lighting both inside the awning and outside for al fresco dining. The feed can also be used for the fridge if we decide to keep it in the kitchen area under the awning.

The cable I'm using is 4mm2 and has a maximum resistance of under 5 Ohms per 1000 metres, apparently rated for 12 volts and 39 amps (468 watts).

The battery to Anderson connector lead I made by crimping with pliers, possible but difficult and far from ideal. I have now invested in cheap crimpers which make the job easier but not easy.

My near sight is deteriorating fast, and I'm too tight to pay for an optician to make proper glasses for me; instead I buy off the shelf glasses from Boots. I'm hindered in close work by these ill fitting spectacles constantly falling off. Even if I were an octopus, I'm not sure I'd have sufficient arms for all the simultaneous things that need doing when crimping: two hands for the crimping pliers, one hand to hold the cable, one hand to hold the terminal onto the cable, one hand for my cup of tea, two hands to catch my glasses as they fall into my cup of tea, one hand to hold the instructions and one hand to mop my sweating brow in this unseasonally warm weather. As a result it took me about an hour to make this simple double adaptor. The cable boots are an optional extra at 78p each; the end caps £3.90 which I'm only using on ends that might be left unplugged.
Well it all looks very professional. I think if it were me I'd probably end up concentrating on putting it together only to find I'd left a cable boot off.

Please let me know how it works out especially the awning extension.

Best get some decent prescription glasses though Tom. Your eyes are important.
 
Ran the feed to the boot tool box today.

4df121cedae920dd91a8b7f2b7e52c9d.jpg


442d40a8685334699309ed48d946d775.jpg


9a6af6edb6c76f64e49381cc14c62ad7.jpg


The hardest part was pushing the wire under the trim. I tried with my leather key fob, but ended up using a screwdriver for the toughest bits.

The meter reading was 14.24 volts on the bare wire ends. A little misleading perhaps as the solar panels were charging the battery at the time of the reading.

I made a ridiculous mistake when fitting the Anderson connector to the boot feed. After trimming the +ve and -ve wire ends I crimped the +ve and with the crimping piers touched the -ve wire and set off a great spark. I’d forgotten to disconnect the battery end of the feed after checking the voltage. The feed is protected by a massive 50 Amp fuse - it didn’t blow.

The next bit, running the feed into the awning case will be the interesting bit.


Follow my blog: www.au-revoir.eu
 
You are getting on with it!

Regarding the trim, I bought a set of trim tools recently. They weren't expensive at about £12 for I think, twelve tools. Ebay do them. These handy tools are semi rigid plastic and come in all shapes and sizes. They are the sort of thing professionals use for removing trim without causing damage. They've already paid me back with the several jobs I've already used them for. I can recommend them.

I'm interested in how you end up running power out to the awning. There aren't many options that don't involve drilling a hole.

Keep up the good work.
 
I'm interested in how you end up running power out to the awning. There aren't many options that don't involve drilling a hole
I am hoping to take the feed out via the tailgate loom - this is the way my solar comes into the van. The feed will then run across the rear of the van, quite possibly under the raising roof, but I haven't properly looked at that option, then into the awning casing by drilling a hole in the plastic end cap. I have taken off the end cap and this is perfectly feasible. I'll post photos.
 
I am hoping to take the feed out via the tailgate loom - this is the way my solar comes into the van. The feed will then run across the rear of the van, quite possibly under the raising roof, but I haven't properly looked at that option, then into the awning casing by drilling a hole in the plastic end cap. I have taken off the end cap and this is perfectly feasible. I'll post photos.
The only thing about that route is that the rubber umbilical cable sheath thingy between the boot hatch and the main body has to be cut open. That's one of the issues that has so far stopped me considering solar panels. I can remember owning several cars over the years where that rubber fitting had split due to general wear and tear. Usually the only way that I found out was when the electrics started playing up due to water ingress. VW could help by providing a waterproof socket in a suitable external location so that this could be avoided. I've seen this feature on a VW conversion so it can be done.

I'm also suprised that VW haven't offered a factory option of fitted LED lighting in the awning rail.
 
The only thing about that route is that the rubber umbilical cable sheath thingy between the boot hatch and the main body has to be cut open. That's one of the issues that has so far stopped me considering solar panels. I can remember owning several cars over the years where that rubber fitting had split due to general wear and tear. Usually the only way that I found out was when the electrics started playing up due to water ingress. VW could help by providing a waterproof socket in a suitable external location so that this could be avoided. I've seen this feature on a VW conversion so it can be done.

I'm also suprised that VW haven't offered a factory option of fitted LED lighting in the awning rail.
VW don’t make the awning. I suggest you get in contact with Thule/Omnistor.
 
So as VW use Thule awnings in some quantity then perhaps a little collaboration to provide LED lighting facilities wouldn't be a bad idea. They've been fitting them for long enough!
 
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