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New cali owner slowly working through repairs.

N

Nik_campervan

Messages
167
Location
Coventry
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
Hi all, previously converted an exaa t4 into a campervan which i ran for just short of 15yrs. Recently sold the T4 and bought a t5.1 se off here. Its not been well cared for but im steadily working through the repairs and renovation. Will start a specific thread to cover this as it might help others. Thus far repainted a bashed cill, fitted new drivers door lock, door seals, water/elec inlet housing, awning end caps, isotop, water pump. Power supply for aerial antenna as v.poor fm reception. Major valet it was filthy inside. Delicate lacquer sanding and buff to remove careless parking, opening sld into wheelie bins. Just about got rid of the stale smell inside. Still to fit towbar, underside wash and wax after all the trays come off. Service the eberspacher as its making odd noises (bearings maybe). Then cambelt and all mechanical work for sept MOT. Plus replace the final 3 cheapo tyres that arent fit for a scrappys transit.

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I'm dizzy just reading about all the work you've got ahead of you. Good luck and perseverance. Looking forward to hearing about your progress.
 
Interesting to read too - they are well worth preserving, these Cali’s. I know very little about underside protection; others have told me to leave alone as they are protected from the factory . But instinctively I would have thought there does come a time when a protective treatment, carefully applied, should be helpful. I’ll be following with interest!
 
Fixed the central locking, previously replaced the drivers lock as interior lights inop and couldn't disable interior sensors with b pillar button. Still the lock/unlock btn on door card would not work. Vcds confirmed inop locked microswitch. Proved harness ok by bridging pins to gnd at b pillar connector. Fitted a new remote lock mech this eve, 33C in garage! All now working both deadlocks and safe mode. Brief description all jobs on sliding door, remove table, remove 6 t20 screws from lower edge of doorcard. From inside van with door partially closed use trim tool to free card from door, 14 push fit fragile clips. Wiggle door trim lower from under the upper trim around window which stays on. Remove 6 way electrical connector and child lock from door. Remove 3 large spline bolts Holding remote mech to door, disconnect wiring 1 inline connector. Remove the lower steel cable from remote, which actuates the door open catch on lower rail. Remove latch from rear edge of door. Pull latch fwd, disconnect inner pull cable, twist outer away from latch to release. Pull push down locking catch from remote, just pulls off the white plastic piece which you may find broken in box with new remote, just swap to new part. Remove t20 from inside door to remove non moving part of outer door handle. Wiggle out old remote. Reassmbly just reverse bolt everything back just tight enough to hold in rough place. With door still open push latch to locked position check both handles mechanically release the latch. Push down lock button on door and confirm outside handle cannot release latch. Open lock with interior handle, close door gently a couple times to position latch abd remote & 6way connector. Go make coffee, come back with vcds, connect up with windows open and with door open/closed cycle through all lock status unlocked/locked/safe check remote locking and door card lock/unlock. Clear dtcs from module. Leave door card off for a couple days just in case. Part number of clips for lower door card V6X0 867 300 A. 61p each, remote V7E0 843 654 CC. £132. Parts for 2010 GP cali se. Pics may help explain. Off now to clean up a set of 4000mile 2020 devonport alloys with 6-8mm of conti tread.. nik.

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Paintwork now finished after lacquer sanding, refinishing compound, paint & lacquer touch ups, finaly 2 coats of wax. Tonight i removed the undertrays and arch liners on the drivers side. Now youd expect the nearside being nearer the gutter to be worst (will find out tomorrow). This being a 2010 cali with 84kmiles youd expect some dirt behind the liners/trays.. i never expected this.... utterly bonkers how much mud was held behind these. In places the seams are rusting. Once i get everything off providing theirs no corrosion near to the cill edge or arch lips ill be treating with lanogard wax heavily. If youve a van of similar age id advise you to do something before the rots really got hold.

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Can confirm the passenger arch liners and undertrays did contain more mud than the drivers side. Also found the water circulation pump on the webasto coolant heater to be weeping, vans not been run for days so their will be little to no pressure in the cooling system so it needs doing asap as will leak far more when under pressure. Can also confirm that "insurance approved" non VW arch liners dont fit well at all. So will be phoning VW in the morning for a genuine part. All the plastic trays,liners washed down. Hopefully get the van out tomorrow evening and pressure wash the underside, leave for a few days before applying lanoguard. Have to repair a split in a rear arch liner too.

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Can confirm the passenger arch liners and undertrays did contain more mud than the drivers side. Also found the water circulation pump on the webasto coolant heater to be weeping, vans not been run for days so their will be little to no pressure in the cooling system so it needs doing asap as will leak far more when under pressure. Can also confirm that "insurance approved" non VW arch liners dont fit well at all. So will be phoning VW in the morning for a genuine part. All the plastic trays,liners washed down. Hopefully get the van out tomorrow evening and pressure wash the underside, leave for a few days before applying lanoguard. Have to repair a split in a rear arch liner too.

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The amount of mud / debris behind the wheel arch liners after 1 year is quite amazing. I make it part of the maintenance regime
 
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Eberspacher cabin heater has been making a screeching noise so was removed today to service. Easiest to drop the mtg bracket and disconnect the ecu from the heater leaving the ecu and wiring attached to the van. The d3plus heater is mechanically the same as a d4. Basic service of new glow plug, gauze and gaskets. Upon stripping the heater, 7x T25 screws. It was apparent the screech was a baffle plate that guides air into the combustion chamber, good news as the blower motor is £200. Used a punch to spread the mtg tabs and secure the baffle. Combustion chamber was very clean and gauze too. Vcds shows heater has no fault codes and 152hrs run time so little use. Reassebled and refitted to van. Rear wheel arch liner was split, repaired with a patch cut from the broken front arch some screws and sikaflex. The front bumper arch liner mtg was repaired with a plate of plastic, screws and sikaflex too.

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Webasto coolant heater pump removed, cant find anything that matches this vw part #. The webasto pumps sold by butlertechnic have different hose orientation too. Have dismantled and ordered a selection of vitron o-rings to see if that cures the leak. S50 cavity wax sprayed into box sections then lanogard sprayed over all underside steel. Leave it 48hrs then box section bungs back in and wheelarch liners and undertrays on. Hopefully the towbar arrives mid week and that can go on too.

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Productive evening, painted melted lanogard motowax onto the seams where corrosion starts and refitted all arch liners and the drivers side undertrays. Fitted a 43mm internal diameter, 2mm section viton o-ring to the webasto thermo top c water pump. Refilled coolant and ran upto fans cutting in. Seems to be watertight. ORing from simplybearings.co.uk £4.69 for two. Will pressure test cooling system tomorrow and check it maintains pressure. Towbar arrived today so rear lights and bumper will hopefully come off tomorrow.

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Productive evening, painted melted lanogard motowax onto the seams where corrosion starts and refitted all arch liners and the drivers side undertrays. Fitted a 43mm internal diameter, 2mm section viton o-ring to the webasto thermo top c water pump. Refilled coolant and ran upto fans cutting in. Seems to be watertight. ORing from simplybearings.co.uk £4.69 for two. Will pressure test cooling system tomorrow and check it maintains pressure. Towbar arrived today so rear lights and bumper will hopefully come off tomorrow.

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Any particular reason you spec’d Viton?
Quality work by the way :cheers
 
Did you know it needed all this work done when you bought it? Or was it such a bargain it was hard to refuse with all its faults.
 
Any particular reason you spec’d Viton?
Quality work by the way :cheers
Viton higher temp rating than nitrile for little difference in price. Ive no experience of the localised heat the webasto can create so made sense.
 
Did you know it needed all this work done when you bought it? Or was it such a bargain it was hard to refuse with all its faults.
My budget was limited to 32k and didnt want to risk the 180hp engine. Also plan on keeping it a long time, ran my t4 for over 14yrs. I like to know my vans reliable so would have gone through any purchase in same way. Expected to have to service heater, replace leisure batts and have to fix ignored issues like the locks and past bodywork issues. Expected to spend 3k on renovations on any van i bought as few maintain them as they deserve. It was local straight enough and in my price range. With covid prices are elevated with high demand so could be waiting for ever for the perfect van. Still check ads online and few 5.1 140hp se vans below 35k. However if you cant diy this would be daft economically.
 
My budget was limited to 32k and didnt want to risk the 180hp engine. Also plan on keeping it a long time, ran my t4 for over 14yrs. I like to know my vans reliable so would have gone through any purchase in same way. Expected to have to service heater, replace leisure batts and have to fix ignored issues like the locks and past bodywork issues. Expected to spend 3k on renovations on any van i bought as few maintain them as they deserve. It was local straight enough and in my price range. With covid prices are elevated with high demand so could be waiting for ever for the perfect van. Still check ads online and few 5.1 140hp se vans below 35k. However if you cant diy this would be daft economically.
I can understand everyone has a budget. How many miles on the clock and did it have any service history? We have had out 140 SE for 7 years and because of Covid just like everyone else haven’t been able to get away properly for 2 years. Have been booked on The Santander ferry for 2020-2021 and now 2022. Busting to get away and probably sell her when we get back end of September.
You obviously know what you are doing and the California can sometimes be complicated and annoying. (And expensive)..
I’m sure you will get there in the end.
Good luck..
 
I can understand everyone has a budget. How many miles on the clock and did it have any service history? We have had out 140 SE for 7 years and because of Covid just like everyone else haven’t been able to get away properly for 2 years. Have been booked on The Santander ferry for 2020-2021 and now 2022. Busting to get away and probably sell her when we get back end of September.
You obviously know what you are doing and the California can sometimes be complicated and annoying. (And expensive)..
I’m sure you will get there in the end.
Good luck..
84k usual vw service history, long life oil and not much else.
 
Eventfull week/weekend, finally back on its wheels, well at least at the rear. Fitted a westfalia towbar and electrics which is involved, both seats out and bases and lower dash too. Backing out CAN pins from the BCM is damn testing of eyesight and patience. All fitted and park sensors and BCM coded too. On removing step trim found the park heater intake with plenty of dirt, was this a builders van? Still no comms to the webasto coolant heater, found a blown 30a fuse under pass seat which i replaced and immediately filled the interior with smoke, the invertor was faulty luckily got the rapidly melting fuse out. Have removed and thrown the invertor which had cooked itself and the first few inches of its 12v feed. Better news in that on pulling the o/s driveshaft to replace cv boot the inner shaft splines and those in box were already greased with no sign of wear. New glowplug in cyl #4 complete the weekend. Full service and cv boot in coming week and should be ready for an MOT.

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Belt n pump 2018 so will be done this winter.
There seems to be a difference of opinion with the duration of cambelt changes. Uk says every 4 years but the rest of Europe can be anywhere up to 10 years and 100 odd thousand miles. It seems they know something we don’t or is it that VWUK are using us as a cash cow?
 
Driveshaft back in, full service and 50miles to confirm the cooling system holds pressure. Replaced the chinese headunit with a kenwood DMX8020DABS sound much improved, great DAB reception and wireless android auto great too. Washed and ready for a fresh MOT on friday.
Next year ill do the cambelt and replace the exhaust with a standard layout but in stainless.
All in renovations came to £4k making full cost £35k which im happy with knowing its full serviced and ready for years of camping use.

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Well done. You certainly know your stuff.:thumb:thumb
 
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