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Power Latching on the Sliding Door

sebking

sebking

VIP Member
Messages
387
Location
West Dorset
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
After a period of not using the Cali the power latching has stopped working, Fuse is ok (as this is same according to Ekta as for all the all of the central locking and convenience units. VCDS Shows all the door locks as ok but a terminal 30 error which is unhelpfully open circuit to battery. Grey connector under the seat and wiring showing no damage and has had a dose of contact cleaner. The wiring diagram is not helpful and the local dealer has advised that it's probably the latching motor unit (which is my next stop), their quote is 4 hours to strip plus the motor which equates to about 700 quid. So before I strip out the rear
 
After a period of not using the Cali the power latching has stopped working, Fuse is ok (as this is same according to Ekta as for all the all of the central locking and convenience units. VCDS Shows all the door locks as ok but a terminal 30 error which is unhelpfully open circuit to battery. Grey connector under the seat and wiring showing no damage and has had a dose of contact cleaner. The wiring diagram is not helpful and the local dealer has advised that it's probably the latching motor unit (which is my next stop), their quote is 4 hours to strip plus the motor which equates to about 700 quid. So before I strip out the rear
Shorting the connector on the rear of the B pillar doesn’t activate the soft close function?
 
Not sure which pins to short from the wiring diagram or the expected voltages
Bridge these contacts on the rear of the B pillar.
Screenshot_2020-02-13-10-04-02.png
 
Bridge these contacts on the rear of the B pillar.
View attachment 55248
Nothing happened when doing that, will get a multi meter on to it tomorrow. Very odd though I did pull that connector from the pillar and someone has been there before as the connector clip is broken.... odd as I’ve have the Cali for 9 years. So could be a red herring!
 
sounds like we may have the same problem Sebking. I'll let you know how I get on next week - fingers crossed it's not the motor!!!! As I said on other thread, my VW person thinks it could be the seal - SO MUCH cheaper to fix so here's hoping.
 
We bought a used Beach last year that has a power latching tailgate but not a side door. (I personally would have ordered both or just the side door!)

I know it's a long shot but after reading this I wondered if it's installed but is faulty.

Is there an easy way to tell - i.e any visible gubbins for the power latching on the sliding door or B pillar or is it all hidden internally?
 
I'm thinking a normal door wouldn't have the copper contacts - see WelshGas diagram - ??
But also - you'd know if it was faulty as the door wouldn't close properly - the front part of my door is flush but the rear part stands about 2cm out - very annoying and drafty.
 
It has both of these bits. The door needs a really good slam to close (which might be normal) but it does sit flush.

IMG_2386.jpgIMG_2389.jpg
 
The latching on the D pillar is different, if you wiggle the latch there will be a very slight movement as the motor connects.
 
I'm thinking a normal door wouldn't have the copper contacts - see WelshGas diagram - ??
But also - you'd know if it was faulty as the door wouldn't close properly - the front part of my door is flush but the rear part stands about 2cm out - very annoying and drafty.
Mine is thankfully broken in the fully locked position
 
Bridge these contacts on the rear of the B pillar.
View attachment 55248
There is power to the bottom contacts, bridging the middle seems to do nothing. I’m assuming the latching switch is part of the motor so need to try and trace that back to a point where I don’t need to strip out. Have looked on Ekta and it’s not a fun job especially without being certain it is the motor. Tempted to get some grips on the latch and give it a proper wiggle, worried though that if it moves a and sticks the door will not close.
 
This may help i have a 2012 T5 SE 180. and as Welsh Gas says bridging middle contacts energises motor ready to close door. When opening door if you listen for motor and it energises all will be well if the motor does not energise then bridging the contacts does the trick.
As a note it does seem that you are not getting any power to central contact i would track that s
 
This may help i have a 2012 T5 SE 180. and as Welsh Gas says bridging middle contacts energises motor ready to close door. When opening door if you listen for motor and it energises all will be well if the motor does not energise then bridging the contacts does the trick.
As a note it does seem that you are not getting any power to central contact i would track that s
I’f someone can confirm I should have 12v on the middle contacts as well as the bottom it would be helpful. Unless it just makes the circuit?
 
I’f someone can confirm I should have 12v on the middle contacts as well as the bottom it would be helpful. Unless it just makes the circuit?
I think it just makes circuit as i short it out with ignition key. Must be very low amperage as no sparks seen whilst bridging. Will check voltage tomorrow. Hope this helps.
 
Have ordered a latching mechanism from eBay... next step strip out the panels on a nice sunny day.
 
Mine's now working as long as the ignition is turned on - which, to be honest, is fine for now. I'll have a rethink once the world has returned to normal service.
 
have an eBay replacement in stock £40, will prob strip out the back next weekend (have been fixing Polo and Up! as well as the N75 on the Cali today!)
 
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