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Roof canvas

Azteccamper

Azteccamper

VIP Member
Messages
1,093
Location
Swansea Valley.
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
Hi. Wondered what your thoughts on my roof canvas are. 2012 SE in regular use. We have devolved wet patches this year where water is soaking the canvas - happens at both front corners and along the bottom length for about 18 inches. Front isn’t a huge problem but side lengths mean we cannot touch or we get wet in bed. Is there a way to clean and re proof canvas or is it time for replacement. It’s always been put away dry. E295FC3F-16B1-41ED-BF68-714D94673451.jpeg

959D3AAA-7CAF-4279-9BD7-B5F51933E34E.jpeg
 
Hi. Wondered what your thoughts on my roof canvas are. 2012 SE in regular use. We have devolved wet patches this year where water is soaking the canvas - happens at both front corners and along the bottom length for about 18 inches. Front isn’t a huge problem but side lengths mean we cannot touch or we get wet in bed. Is there a way to clean and re proof canvas or is it time for replacement. It’s always been put away dry. View attachment 99344

View attachment 99345
I would do the following.

1. Vacuum the canvas using a brush type head on a domestic vacuum cleaner.
2. Wash the canvas, in a circular motion, using a microfibre cloth, gently squeezed out, using warm water and a gentle soap. Use a liquid soap for babies or Original Fairy soap flakes.
3. Rinse off canvas using a hose, but gently, using a rainfall setting. No jets.
4. Allow to thoroughly dry, roof up side door open and roof bed up.
5. Canvas waterproofing liquid either by spray or by brush following the manufacturers instructions.
 
I would do the following.

1. Vacuum the canvas using a brush type head on a domestic vacuum cleaner.
2. Wash the canvas, in a circular motion, using a microfibre cloth, gently squeezed out, using warm water and a gentle soap. Use a liquid soap for babies or Original Fairy soap flakes.
3. Rinse off canvas using a hose, but gently, using a rainfall setting. No jets.
4. Allow to thoroughly dry, roof up side door open and roof bed up.
5. Canvas waterproofing liquid either by spray or by brush following the manufacturers instructions.
Thanks @WelshGas will give this a go on a good dry day at home on our return from France. I was thinking of maybe using Nikwax cleaner I use on waterproof coats prior to reproofing?
 
Thanks @WelshGas will give this a go on a good dry day at home on our return from France. I was thinking of maybe using Nikwax cleaner I use on waterproof coats prior to reproofing?
Can't offer any advice on products to use I'm afraid.
The above is what we did on canvas tents in the Scouts 30yrs ago. Worked well.
 
General advice for Cali fabric type is not to apply any waterproofing products, as it is breathable, rather than a rubberised fabric seen on some conversions which are 100% waterproof but turn the upstairs bed into a sauna in hotter climates.

That said Grangers / Nikwax do a decent range of sprays on product that we have used on other things....but not needed for our 2012 cali roof.

Internal ISOTOP will cure the damp bed, just pop the roof when you get home to dry out completlely.

My parents used to set up camps for girl guides /scouts whethey had the big heavy canvas tents with the solid wooden poles. Back then the rule was vent the tent in the day & never let anything touch the sides. Nikwax was generally applied at the end or start of the season if they could find willing volunteers. Thankfully things dry out alot quicker these days.
 
I have no experience of waterproofing the pop top canvas.

as Chipbutty says not recommended by VW

Nikwax is used in breathable products and contains silicone, which works very well on tents, coats and outdoor gear including shoes etc . Remains breathable and clear (I.e no colour added although the material may darken slightly as a result of application as is the case for all waterproofing product)

Fabsil is another great waterproofing product, with silicone, can be used on tents, convertible car hoods, outdoor gear etc. Remains breathable and clear

personally I would try a patch test to see what the effect of the canvas was before applying to the whole canvas.

IMO so long as it stays breathable I can’t see any future issue.
 
There seems to be a triangular shape in the wet patches that I think mirrors the way the canvas naturally folds when you put the roof down. I wonder if the rubber band ends up inside this fold and has been rubbing the canvas a little when you are driving and has slightly worn away the surface waterproofing?
9A4F6C54-4DF9-4D85-9C24-98A951DB0A5E.jpeg
Just a thought. If the roof gets well used and occasionally put away wet, then the band could be lightly damaging the canvas.
I don’t use a band, I can see why others do but I just put the roof down very carefully instead. Your canvas actually looks in good condition so Welshgas’ suggestion will hopefully fix it. Nikwax seems a good idea. I personally would then consider getting rid of the band.
 
I noticed a similar patch (to the OPs 1st picture) where the waterproofing had worn. Put my case down to having to clean marks and sealant off after it had returned from roof rubber seal work.
I have since applied some Nikwax TX Direct. A 300ml spray bottle was enough to do the whole canvas once and the problem area a few extra times. Since I applied it I haven't had the roof up in any prolonged rain but just spraying the area with a mist bottle the water does bead up.
The TX Direct didn't change the feel of the canvas or make it seem waxy at all.
 
I noticed a similar patch (to the OPs 1st picture) where the waterproofing had worn. Put my case down to having to clean marks and sealant off after it had returned from roof rubber seal work.
I have since applied some Nikwax TX Direct. A 300ml spray bottle was enough to do the whole canvas once and the problem area a few extra times. Since I applied it I haven't had the roof up in any prolonged rain but just spraying the area with a mist bottle the water does bead up.
The TX Direct didn't change the feel of the canvas or make it seem waxy at all.
Did you wet the canvas before you applied or do it to dry canvas?
 
There seems to be a triangular shape in the wet patches that I think mirrors the way the canvas naturally folds when you put the roof down. I wonder if the rubber band ends up inside this fold and has been rubbing the canvas a little when you are driving and has slightly worn away the surface waterproofing?
View attachment 99359
Just a thought. If the roof gets well used and occasionally put away wet, then the band could be lightly damaging the canvas.
I don’t use a band, I can see why others do but I just put the roof down very carefully instead. Your canvas actually looks in good condition so Welshgas’ suggestion will hopefully fix it. Nikwax seems a good idea. I personally would then consider getting rid of the band.
Good shout. I’ll try a few suggestions and see how it goes.
 
I have no experience of waterproofing the pop top canvas.

as Chipbutty says not recommended by VW

Nikwax is used in breathable products and contains silicone, which works very well on tents, coats and outdoor gear including shoes etc . Remains breathable and clear (I.e no colour added although the material may darken slightly as a result of application as is the case for all waterproofing product)

Fabsil is another great waterproofing product, with silicone, can be used on tents, convertible car hoods, outdoor gear etc. Remains breathable and clear

personally I would try a patch test to see what the effect of the canvas was before applying to the whole canvas.

IMO so long as it stays breathable I can’t see any future issue.
Thank you.
 
There seems to be a triangular shape in the wet patches that I think mirrors the way the canvas naturally folds when you put the roof down. I wonder if the rubber band ends up inside this fold and has been rubbing the canvas a little when you are driving and has slightly worn away the surface waterproofing?
View attachment 99359
Just a thought. If the roof gets well used and occasionally put away wet, then the band could be lightly damaging the canvas.
I don’t use a band, I can see why others do but I just put the roof down very carefully instead. Your canvas actually looks in good condition so Welshgas’ suggestion will hopefully fix it. Nikwax seems a good idea. I personally would then consider getting rid of the band.
That triangle might have some kind of hidden meaning :)
The elastic band is rubbish, you don't need it. 16yrs of putting the
roof down correctly... I'm fine without it.
 
Two suggestions:
1) check the drain channels at the front and back of the roof aren’t blocked with dead leaves etc on each side
2) if it’s rainy put a topper on the roof to stop water getting on your canvas
 
Thanks @WelshGas will give this a go on a good dry day at home on our return from France. I was thinking of maybe using Nikwax cleaner I use on waterproof coats prior to reproofing?
I haven't done my roof canvas yet but I intend to do it with Fabsil which I used to great effect on a 30 year old canvas tent. I found the brush-on version much better than the spray.
 
Another vote for Nikwax TX Direct.

In prep for winter wiped down roof material and applied to 0.5m2 area at a time (spray) and wiped with a sponge.

Points to note.

1) If original proofing is good, there is very little initial absorption of the Nikwax and it just beads and runs off if sprayed to excess.

2) After repeated spreading of the beads with the sponge, the beading reduces and the canvas seems more supple and wrinkles, suggesting that the Nikwax is getting taken up.

3)It was quite noticeable that at the stitching for the seams, vertical reinforcing for the fold stiffeners and where the canvas is creased by folding, Nikwax take up was more pronounced (material looked as if it has been “wetted”) Disappears when dry.

4)The zippable vent flaps can be tricky to do as they have to be done from the inside.
With care and an assistant they can be held horizontal with a slight dish shape so that the Nikwax stays on the flap rather than dripping onto the van internal surfaces.
NB a light touch on the spray trigger is needed to dribble the solution onto the flap surface, you don’t want a big cloud of aerosol wax drifting around the van interior.

After drying all of the canvas has its usual “taut” appearance and no change in colour.

In use no additional condensation or breathability issues.

Sheds water like the proverbial ducks back.

Only issue with spray application is you must protect glass, bodywork and adjacent vehicles and windows from spray drift.

Can be washed off when still wet but once dried needs glass and body specific cleaning products to remove !!!
 
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I haven't done my roof canvas yet but I intend to do it with Fabsil which I used to great effect on a 30 year old canvas tent. I found the brush-on version much better than the spray.
I've bought a can of Fabsil spray and will give the bottom and front canvas a light spray. Our canvas is pretty good but a those bits might benefit from a little more protection.
1663766178484.jpeg
Seemed to go on well. Big 500ml can did the whole roof. About an hour later seemed dry and returned to normal colour. Put it down after 3hrs. After I sprayed I opened the canvas ‘windows’ so they wouldn’t stick to fly screens.
 
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Our canvas got damp after heavy rain sometimes. Not a fix per se but now we always use a Pucer screen. Keeps it cool in summer and warm in winter with the added benefit of being a waterproof barrier. Takes 5 minutes to put up and even less to put away.
 
Our canvas got damp after heavy rain sometimes. Not a fix per se but now we always use a Pucer screen. Keeps it cool in summer and warm in winter with the added benefit of being a waterproof barrier. Takes 5 minutes to put up and even less to put away.
Strangely enough it was after using the pucer screen that our wet patches developed. So we haven’t used it since as the fit wasn’t great on ours - it left a 2” gap at the top of the front section leaving water get between it and the screen. The result is the damp patches as shown in #1
 
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