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Slow going...

bxl_lad

bxl_lad

Its not easy being green...
Messages
666
Location
Brussels, Belgium
Vehicle
T4 PopTop
Morning all,
This year we've added a small trailer to the setup (max 350kg, so it's not big).
We're generally not taking much more with us, still 3 bikes on the rack, but I figured better weight distribution.
But, its really seeking to struggle on the hills, is this normal?
Even having to sometimes drop to 3rd on highway hills, getting passed by cars tugging caravans...
Thoughts
 
102 hp 2.5tdi? Does it feel normal without the trailer? 102 isn't a lot these days :rolleyes:
 
I'm surprised it's struggling that much, but maybe as 2into1 implies that 102 engine is fully stretched pulling the van around without a trailer.

My van is a T5 180 so not a useful comparison, but anyway I spend a lot of time pulling a car transporter trailer around, which weighs 500kg unloaded and typically 1,500kg loaded. When unloaded the trailer isn't really noticeable at all, I have to keep reminding myself it's there and to keep to the trailer speed limits. Loaded, I might have to drop down from 6th to 5th to maintain speed on a sharpish motorway hill like the M40 cutting. On rural roads in the hills it's more of a factor, although I'd certainly expect not to be overtaken by a caravan!
 
Morning all,
This year we've added a small trailer to the setup (max 350kg, so it's not big).
We're generally not taking much more with us, still 3 bikes on the rack, but I figured better weight distribution.
But, its really seeking to struggle on the hills, is this normal?
Even having to sometimes drop to 3rd on highway hills, getting passed by cars tugging caravans...
Thoughts
What engine and milage.
You might have distributed the weight better but you've also added to the weight with the trailer. How much does that weigh?
 
102 hp 2.5tdi? Does it feel normal without the trailer? 102 isn't a lot these days :rolleyes:
Yes, 102 (non-red i).
I know it's the smaller powered version, but I'd still have thought it would have chugged along without struggling that much. On the flat its no problem, just really notice it when there's an incline.
Must add that we're pretty well loaded to the hilt, so maybe it's too be expected, I guess I just expected a little more ooompf from the 2.5
 
Yes, 102 (non-red i).
I know it's the smaller powered version, but I'd still have thought it would have chugged along without struggling that much. On the flat its no problem, just really notice it when there's an incline.
Must add that we're pretty well loaded to the hilt, so maybe it's too be expected, I guess I just expected a little more ooompf from the 2.5
? Try it without the trailer?
 
Like I said, we're not carrying overall much more than usual, it's just distributed away from the inside of the van and we used to carry other stuff on a tow bar rack. I guess without trailer and ask that weight it also was noticeable, but it's just struck me as particularly slow with the trailer.
She's an old gal, we'll get there when we get there. Main thing is she's not letting us down :)
 
Where you put the weight obviously isn't going to make a significant difference to performance. As a next step I'd suggest getting the engine looked at. That may include a compression test but if the engine isn't too heavily worn it's quite likely be something relatively simple like a clogged fuel filter or a dodgy MAF sensor - however diesels can be hard to diagnose so worth having someone skilled go over it systematically.
 
Sounds suspiciously like your N75 valve has gone and it’s dropped into limp mode. When I say limp, it’s not a 30mph thing, it just looses boost.
Is it better with an ignition off reset?

Worth checking the vacuum pipes to/from around the N75 and to the turbo actuator.

I had this recently. You don’t immediately notice a big power drop but it won’t pull hard up hills. I could still hold 130kph on the flat but it soon slowed on the hills.

I’m not sure what model of turbo your unit runs but it could be worth a Google. What you’re looking for is when the actuator strokes to its maximum ie, engine off the actuator is furthest away from the screw stop. Engine on, it’s hard against the stop (full boost). This is an indication of a good vacuum supply. Makes sense?
 
Mmm, mines The2.5 ACV engine, vans a hi top, & a syncro. I carry quite a lot of gear, and had considered a trailer. I had mine chipped, the 102 bhp is now 150bhp, flies up hills no problem.
 
Also, are the brakes ok? If they’ve lost a bit of urgency it could indicate a vacuum pump on its way out which will affect your N75. Vacuum pump fail is usually obvious by the ticking sounds.
 
Mmm, mines The2.5 ACV engine, vans a hi top, & a syncro. I carry quite a lot of gear, and had considered a trailer. I had mine chipped, the 102 bhp is now 150bhp, flies up hills no problem.
What Sidepod said . I had exactly this problem, vac pipes badly perished, replaced all including brake servo pipes.
 
Actually thinking about it, the 102 turbo is the same as the 150. Garret GT 22v. I know this because I’ve just bought a new one.
So, engine off the actuator should be away from the screw stop. Engine on, it should be hard against the stop.
This doesn’t prove the N75 is working as it should but it demonstrates you have sufficient vacuum to pull full boost.
 
OK, some things for me to be going on. Maybe something can be done to improve the performance. Thanks folks
Will have to be when we get back from the trip now though...
 
The T4 with the 102 ACV is normally no slouch, hp don’t matter it’s the 250 Nm torque that does the work,.

We live near the Alps and our 2000 330,000 km Cali is fully loaded (overloaded if our 2 well fed daughter are in the back) although I can’t be compared to more powerful T5 & 6’s it never fails to deliver, apart from hairpins it climbs all hills in the Alps in 3rd gear, highway hills in France in 4th.

I’m not going to get too technical, assuming the engine is in good condition and it’s maintained correctly, a few things that can cause a problem:

Blocked fuel filter or a crappy brand or air filter
EGR valve blocked
Cat blocked
loose intake to turbo, the plastic pipe stretch with age & heat, needs a thicker O-ring or a hose clip
Turbo wastegate disc fell off or linkage wrongly adjusted

Now a bit tech stuff

MAF air mass sensor near the air filter, disconnect, if it improves performance its junk.
Other sensors can be faulty, boost & temp sensor on the intercooler, is it an early or late ACV, early have a hose to the ECU for boost pressure which can be leaky & the plastic hose inside the ECU can fail.
Turbo wastegate control, remove hose from the actuator block the hose, if improved and may go to limp mode with over boost, its a vacuum control issue, hose or valve.
Engine timing, if it’s off it can only be adjusted with diagnostics, VCDS.

Ideally you need access to VCDS to check fault codes if any ignore clear and recheck with a run and data logging to compare real time sensor data, sensors in the fuel pump can only be checked this way.

This may seem a lot but anyone with an old T4 Tdi or any pre 2003 VAG group with Tdi has to deal with these issues. Wait till todays get a bit age related issues.

I had many of these issues when I got my T4 some years ago, I have the advantage of being retired having spent 30 years at the heavy end of the worldwide VAG group.

My T4 is decated theres a big hole through it, EGR is clean blanked coded off, has better performance and fuel economy than it left the factory, turbo winds up from 1,600 rpm and is already pulling hard from 1,200 rpm.

You gotta love the old Audi 5 cyl lump, lasts forever, If you‘r a diesel junki sounds good too, that 5 cyl growl and scream at full chat.

note to self, maybe too much
 
Forgot to add,

if you’r a bit handy with the tools you want to look at www.vwt4forum.co.uk if you haven’t already, some can be a feisty on the forum so do a bit research on the forum before asking dum questions.

I’m there to
 
Is this the famous N75 valve?
Is there anything a novice could do with limited (very) tools sitting on a campsite, or is this really something I'm going to have to wait until i get home for?
cheers!
20220730_091225.jpg
 
If this is a vacuum pipe (found behind what I think is the intercooler?), looks snagged, was wrapped in duct tape!
That tube does go into the thing I posted on the last picture...
Either way I guess it should be replaced?
20220730_092509.jpg
 
Is this the famous N75 valve?
Is there anything a novice could do with limited (very) tools sitting on a campsite, or is this really something I'm going to have to wait until i get home for?
cheers!
View attachment 96919
On later engines when the N75 valve caused problems it was often the case that the tubes started leaking rather than the valve.
 
The first picture is the n75. That said there are two identical looking valves back to back. One is the Egr or anti shudder, can’t recall which.
The N75 is at the back.

You should be able to ID the N75 by tracing any tubing to the turbo actuator.

I would guess the frayed tube is your problem.
Just wrap it in electrical tape as a temp fix.
 
The first picture is the n75. That said there are two identical looking valves back to back. One is the Egr or anti shudder, can’t recall which.
The N75 is at the back.

You should be able to ID the N75 by tracing any tubing to the turbo actuator.

I would guess the frayed tube is your problem.
Just wrap it in electrical tape as a temp fix.
Halfrauds do replacement tubing
 
If you are UK based and north give Pendle Tuning a call and book in. He knows his stuff. A 102bhp should pull a trailer no bother, the 5 cylinder has plenty of low down torque, power isn't what gets you moving.
 
Just to say I had a T5 before with more power but the T4 5 cylinder is a much better engine in use, smoother, better sounding and goes just as good.
 
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