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Solar Regulator Fitting

John K

John K

VIP Member
Messages
67
Location
Lancashire, UK
Vehicle
T6 Ocean 199
Question for those who have installed solar systems with the regulator in the rear cupboard -
I have an Epever DuoRacer system ready to install, and the obvious place for the unit is in the top of the rear cupboard. How has anyone attached the unit or similiar to the back wall of the cupboard? Do you need to remove it to do so, and if so how do you do that?
 
Question for those who have installed solar systems with the regulator in the rear cupboard -
I have an Epever DuoRacer system ready to install, and the obvious place for the unit is in the top of the rear cupboard. How has anyone attached the unit or similiar to the back wall of the cupboard? Do you need to remove it to do so, and if so how do you do that?
I used short slf tapping screws. You don't want a long screw as it could damage the wardrobe tambour door that slides behind. Tried double-sided foam tape but came off in high temperatures.
 
Ditto to Welsh Gas. The back wall is about 2-3 mm. aluminium and takes a self tapper quite easily.
You can see how short the screws need to be by looking at where the tambour disappears behind the partition.
 
Roger’s kit contains the self tappers.
Was just hoping someone had devised a method that didn’t involve damaging the cupboard wall.
I’ll crack on and get it done!
 
Roger’s kit contains the self tappers.
Was just hoping someone had devised a method that didn’t involve damaging the cupboard wall.
I’ll crack on and get it done!
Haven’t collected my Ocean yet so can’t check, but just wondering if there is any way of hanging a metal plate from the top of the cupboard that the charge controller screws on to? I.e. an aluminium plate with a suitable bend at the top edge for strength and some double sided gorilla tape behind it just to stop it flapping?
 
Haven’t collected my Ocean yet so can’t check, but just wondering if there is any way of hanging a metal plate from the top of the cupboard that the charge controller screws on to? I.e. an aluminium plate with a suitable bend at the top edge for strength and some double sided gorilla tape behind it just to stop it flapping?
Yes you could. Mine has been on for 6 yrs and when/if I sell the van then the system will be going with the van, so couldn't be bothered.
 
The heavy duty Velcro is another alternative. A 10cm length is rated as being able to cope with 7kg weight.

My Victron controller is fixed using it in the Beach rear jack side panel. It's handy as you can remove the controller to access it should you need to. 2 years and still no issues with glue failing.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00186Q9AK/?tag=eliteelect-21
 
Done and dusted, used the longer supplied screws to make the holes and the shorter ones on the lower holes to avoid fouling the door. Easier than I thought shouldn’t have worried.
Spent several hours on the installation, patience definitely required, particularly routing wires.
Only slight electric wobble was a flashing heater icon on the overhead controller after I’d reconnected everything (dual battery charger so disconnected main battery) but reset after switching controller on and off, and works fine. The front windows and mirrors also work normally, which I understand can also be an issue if battery disconnected.
Oh, and nothing went ‘bang’ or fused . . . .
 
Having had everything connected up for 72 hours now I’m showing the following voltages on the Duoracer display, which would suggest that the leisure battery is at about 50% and starter battery flat. Both at 100% on the van controller display .
. . 46983013-3C3E-4ECD-A5A8-055969F07336.jpeg 1126E4AF-C607-4F65-9899-161E19797C89.jpeg
Doesn’t seem quite right as instructions say that the voltage on the Duoracer is the one to take as the accurate reflection of battery health. The starter isn’t flat btw . .
 
Having had everything connected up for 72 hours now I’m showing the following voltages on the Duoracer display, which would suggest that the leisure battery is at about 50% and starter battery flat. Both at 100% on the van controller display .
. . View attachment 68457 View attachment 68458
Doesn’t seem quite right as instructions say that the voltage on the Duoracer is the one to take as the accurate reflection of battery health. The starter isn’t flat btw . .
Either something is wrong that mppt, cables are to long/thin, something is taking energy from the batteries. If you start the engine will it show that the starter battery has well over 14V?
 
The cable to the leisure battery is 1.5m long and over specc'd. Starter is 4.5m long and again over specc'd.

The voltage on the LB suggests it was full , with a load. i.e. 12.6v is full, and 12.2v is what I'd expect with the fridge on. This is without solar charging - i.e. at night.

The SB voltage is quite low and suggest a load, like the radio.

The graphical representation of the batteries is always misleading as the chargers think 13.8v - 14v is "full". Well , it is, when being charged, but when idle, 12.6v is full, and that doesn't take the battery bars over 50%. Lord knows why they keep doing this on chargers.

Sorry of the thread resurrection - catching up on the forum posts! :)
 
I used short slf tapping screws. You don't want a long screw as it could damage the wardrobe tambour door that slides behind. Tried double-sided foam tape but came off in high temperatures.
HI, What would your preference be...I have two 100w panels and a Victron MPPT controller..would putting them in series be ok ? thanks David
 
Thanks a lot for your reply...much appreciated...another question: Can you connect a DC / AC inverter to the LOAD on MPPT Controller : I have 2 x 100w panels with a Victron smart controller..
I don't know, but would have thought not.
If you have an Ocean you already have an inverter.
Inverters are power hungry. You don't get that much from the Load side of the controller.
 
I don't know, but would have thought not.
If you have an Ocean you already have an inverter.
Inverters are power hungry. You don't get that much from the Load side of the controller.
do you personally use the LOAD for anything?
 
The load terminals are great for hooking something up that risks killing your batteries, but you can live with if it is powered down.

So not trackers!.

A good example is a fridge. They have low voltage cut offs built in, but they keep retrying , again and again, slowly killing batteries. Use the load port and the charger will shut down the power to that port when the voltage drops below a set point, and only reconnect it when it rises above another set point.

Problem is for Cali Ocean owners this requres unrealistic rewiring, and disconnecting from the Cali control system. Not something anyone wants to do. The Cali system actually has similar protection built in I believe.

My self build Bongo of old was fully wired through the load terminals - I did this so I can see how much power is being used, as well as generated. The weakness with a lot of Epever chargers is it's only a case of p[ressing the "OK" button to accidentally turn off the load output.
 
The load terminals are great for hooking something up that risks killing your batteries, but you can live with if it is powered down.

So not trackers!.

A good example is a fridge. They have low voltage cut offs built in, but they keep retrying , again and again, slowly killing batteries. Use the load port and the charger will shut down the power to that port when the voltage drops below a set point, and only reconnect it when it rises above another set point.

Problem is for Cali Ocean owners this requres unrealistic rewiring, and disconnecting from the Cali control system. Not something anyone wants to do. The Cali system actually has similar protection built in I believe.

My self build Bongo of old was fully wired through the load terminals - I did this so I can see how much power is being used, as well as generated. The weakness with a lot of Epever chargers is it's only a case of p[ressing the "OK" button to accidentally turn off the load output.
The California does have such protection for fridge and parking heater, but they don't keep trying, they are just switched off.
 
I have theses readings on my controller...are these normal for a 2x100w solar installation? any ideas...thanks...

IMG_6536.PNG

IMG_6537.PNG

IMG_6538.PNG
 
I have theses readings on my controller...are these normal for a 2x100w solar installation? any ideas...thanks...

View attachment 77756

View attachment 77757

View attachment 77758
I’m no great expert on Solar Panels but I would say your System is functioning, it is in Float mode because the Leisure Batteries are Full.

What readings do you get if you are using the Leisure Batteries, such as putting the Parking Heater or Fridge On.

It is a good idea to run the Parking Heater monthly for at least 30 to 60 minutes. That’s from Eberspacher, who make the Heater, not VW.
 
That's not one of mine is it? Looks like two in series
 
I’m no great expert on Solar Panels but I would say your System is functioning, it is in Float mode because the Leisure Batteries are Full.

What readings do you get if you are using the Leisure Batteries, such as putting the Parking Heater or Fridge On.

It is a good idea to run the Parking Heater monthly for at least 30 to 60 minutes. That’s from Eberspacher, who make the Heater, not VW.
Thanks for your reply...
 

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