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T4 Cali fridge not working

Hubble

Hubble

Messages
69
Vehicle
T4 PopTop
Hi
My fridge stopped working recently. The snowflake icon comes on for a few seconds then goes off for a few seconds then repeats. I've checked the fuse and that's OK.
I guess I need to get in there with my voltmeter but I don't really know what I'm looking for. Where should I start?
Cheers
 
Is your Leisure Battery charged sufficiently? If it drops below 11v then fridge/Heater stop working.
Does the fridge work when plugged into the mains or with engine running?
 
Hi
It doesn't work at all. Not on mains, or with engine running or with fully charged battery.
 
Probably the box of electronics has died. It's in the black box under the fridge ( to access: bench seat all the way forwards, undo the 2 screws on the lower panel and pull out on the grill. Then undo about a million screws on the back box).

Here's info on the replacement from the Westy Useful Info thread:

Replacement fridge electronics:

Frigoboat E254412

http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/shop/product/436/

Requires spade connectors fitting to wires and new mounting points for the box, but other than that is a straight swap for the Danfoss unit.
 
Once you get into the gubbins of the fridge, worth checking for corrosion on the various plugs.
 
Mine has a dodge stat. If things get packed in and it gets knocked it sometimes fails. A quick jiggle and it works again. I have a new one on board waiting.

It may be worth giving it a prod. It's the white tube thing, rear right.

Spod.
 
Probably the box of electronics has died. It's in the black box under the fridge ( to access: bench seat all the way forwards, undo the 2 screws on the lower panel and pull out on the grill. Then undo about a million screws on the back box).

Here's info on the replacement from the Westy Useful Info thread:

Replacement fridge electronics:

Frigoboat E254412

http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/shop/product/436/

Requires spade connectors fitting to wires and new mounting points for the box, but other than that is a straight swap for the Danfoss unit.
Hi
Are there any checks I can carry out on the the electronics box to make sure this is the case?
Thanks
 
Dans your man here. I've never had cause to look into it. I'm away at the moment so I don't have access to my data base of stuff.

I'd start by checking the obv. Acces the panel below the fridge and check all connectors etc are secure.

It could be the control panel above the driver that's the issue?
There should be wiring diagrams available on line. You could just put in a direct temp supply from the battery to rule out the control panel.

P.
 
Not sure. Simple things like checking for corrosion on plugs, checking it's getting a consistent power supply. As for checking the fridge controller, I guess you could get an electronics specialist to take a look at it. May just be a blown component on the board.

I remember there was a very long thread about Westy fridge failures on the T4Forum. I read through it, gave up and bought the replacement box of electronics :) Mine failed differently to yours. It wouldn't stay cold and kept beeping at me, but the snowflake stayed on.
 
Dans your man here. I've never had cause to look into it. I'm away at the moment so I don't have access to my data base of stuff.

I'd start by checking the obv. Acces the panel below the fridge and check all connectors etc are secure.

It could be the control panel above the driver that's the issue?
There should be wiring diagrams available on line. You could just put in a direct temp supply from the battery to rule out the control panel.

P.
Good idea about the temp supply. Thanks
 
Looks like Me and Pod are taking our lunch breaks at the same time :D
 
Dans your man here. I've never had cause to look into it. I'm away at the moment so I don't have access to my data base of stuff.

I'd start by checking the obv. Acces the panel below the fridge and check all connectors etc are secure.

It could be the control panel above the driver that's the issue?
There should be wiring diagrams available on line. You could just put in a direct temp supply from the battery to rule out the control panel.

P.
Do I need to remove the whole fridge + compressor unit to do this? I've got 12+ volts to the main positive connection but I can't figure how to bypass the controller.
 
Hard to say without a wiring diagram in front of me.

They're fairly simple bits of kit.the compressor is just a motor so give it a supply. Locate the cable feeding the motor and connect into there. The stat is just a switched input so short that out to mimic a "on" condition.

I think also the control box drives the small cooling fan.
 
Perhaps I didn't explain clearly enough.

If you get a supply directly on to the compressor motor the fridge should run and get cold regardless of the controller or stat.

Once you've proved this then you know it's not the motor.

Next prove the stat. Disconnect it from the controller and see if the fridge fires up. I'm not sure if the shelf state of the stat ie is it a live input or dead input that calls for cold. I think the stat is a variable resistor.
Once disconnected use a short wire link to short out the connections effectively mimicking a functioning stat.

If the fridge then runs it suggests it's the stat.

There is obvs the input from the overhead control unit but we are bypassing this for the purposes of diagnostics.

Crack on and learn as you go.
 
Perhaps I didn't explain clearly enough.

If you get a supply directly on to the compressor motor the fridge should run and get cold regardless of the controller or stat.

Once you've proved this then you know it's not the motor.

Next prove the stat. Disconnect it from the controller and see if the fridge fires up. I'm not sure if the shelf state of the stat ie is it a live input or dead input that calls for cold. I think the stat is a variable resistor.
Once disconnected use a short wire link to short out the connections effectively mimicking a functioning stat.

If the fridge then runs it suggests it's the stat.

There is obvs the input from the overhead control unit but we are bypassing this for the purposes of diagnostics.

Crack on and learn as you go.
OK. It's just there's a cage around the side of the space that encloses the compressor/control unit which looks like it carries cooling pipes for the compressor. I guess there are a couple of wires that connect the control electronics to the compressor but I can't see or get to them. Will I need to take the whole fridge out to get to the necessary wiring?
 
Can you not disconnect the necessary cabling from the black box to carry out the testing?

From memory I can't picture the logistics.

It's not actually a huge job to remove the whole unit.

Tricky part is getting it seated correctly to stop the lid squeeking.
Ask me how I know this !!!
 
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Will I need to take the whole fridge out to get to the necessary wiring?

No. Think everything Pod is describing is accessible by removing the lower panel, which is two screws and then pulling out on the grate.
 
OK, digging a bit deeper I've got mostly 2 flashes from the diagnostic terminal on the control unit. This apparently means that the fan is drawing a current > 1A. This looks very much like dodgy electronics especially as there is no fan connected!
But it occurred to me - is it normal westfalia installation to not have a fan?
Got the controller out now - easy when you know how.
 
It should have a fan. They are the computer style fans.

Item #2 in this diagram (part 701070504).

https://www.partsbase.org/vw/campmo...-eu-2002-campmobil-transp-gr-070-170-coolbox/
I'm wondering if I've got a different set up. Photos I've seen online show a black panel which you need to take off to get to the compressor. Mine hasn't got this and it's got cooling pipes running around the compressor. You can just see the ends on the left in the photo. Maybe this set up doesn't need a fan?
Anyone with a 2002 model or similar who can advise?
Btw, where is the fan located?
20160227_131235.jpg
 
That doesn't look like how I remember mine, but it's been a couple of years since I've been in there, and mine is older. Hopefully someone with a newer van will be know.

If I remember correctly, my fan was pushing air over some metal pipework. There are a couple of vents through the bottom of the van, the vent/pipework was above one of these.
 
Returned controller to Penguin Refrigeration who tested it and confirmed it was indeed dead. They sent me a new one for about £100, popped it in and now fridge works. Happy days.
Spoke to technician who wasn't particularly surprised that there was no fan installed so this may be an acceptable set up. I'd still like to know what is standard fridge set up for a 2002 California Event though. Maybe I'll post another thread about this.
Thanks for all the advice.
 
Returned controller to Penguin Refrigeration who tested it and confirmed it was indeed dead. They sent me a new one for about £100, popped it in and now fridge works. Happy days.
Spoke to technician who wasn't particularly surprised that there was no fan installed so this may be an acceptable set up. I'd still like to know what is standard fridge set up for a 2002 California Event though. Maybe I'll post another thread about this.
Thanks for all the advice.
This might help. Cannot see any fan on this Coolbox.

http://www.partsbase.org/vw/campmob-typ2-transp-lt-camp-eu-2002-campmobil-transp-gr-070-170-coolbox/

But there is a Fan on this Refrigerator .

http://www.partsbase.org/vw/campmob...002-campmobil-transp-gr-070-165-refrigerator/
 
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