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T5.1 cooker/sink worktop closure - swoosh or clunk?

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haydnw2

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Cali now sold
T5.1 SE owners - when you close the worktop above the cooker/sink, does it descend the final part of the travel with a smooth swoosh or a rapid clunk? Ours does the latter, despite doing the first 80% slowly and quitely. With a dog who's still suspicious of the strange new four-wheeled arrival on the driveway, I wonder whether replacing the gas strut would quieten it down a bit.
 
I fitted a brand new gas strut yesterday to our T5 glass top, as the old one didn't even manage to hold it upright. I was expecting soft close but when you release it, it goes down really slowly for about 80% of the way, then crashes down in a way that you expect it to break the glass.

If this is indeed normal as I expect, the solution I have developed involves holding it as it closes, which I always remember half a second too late...
 
Thanks - good to know I'm not the only one then! I'll have to see if there's some kind of solution; will post back if I manage anything.
 
T5.1 SE owners - when you close the worktop above the cooker/sink, does it descend the final part of the travel with a smooth swoosh or a rapid clunk? Ours does the latter, despite doing the first 80% slowly and quitely. With a dog who's still suspicious of the strange new four-wheeled arrival on the driveway, I wonder whether replacing the gas strut would quieten it down a bit.
Normal. Never let it drop unless you want a large replacement bill.
Make sure the rubber/plastic stops are present on the underside of the glass lid and make sure the potholders around the gas burners are pushed down properly.
 
I'm thinking along the lines of superglue and a tennis ball to make it safe
 
T5.1 SE owners - when you close the worktop above the cooker/sink, does it descend the final part of the travel with a smooth swoosh or a rapid clunk? Ours does the latter, despite doing the first 80% slowly and quitely. With a dog who's still suspicious of the strange new four-wheeled arrival on the driveway, I wonder whether replacing the gas strut would quieten it down a bit.
If you are just letting it close under it’s own weigh, then it will clunk and probably do damage. If the gas strut was strong enough to dampen the last 20% to stop the clunk it would probably be too stiff. I think the strut is there to hold it open.
 
If it helps in terms of solidarity and “they all do that, sir....” my 2016 T6 does exactly the same.
I am also working on the basis of it is a hold up mechanism, not for soft close
 
I always close the lids (fridge and cooker) by hand. I gently push the lid in phase with the speed of the strut. The last part, I keep holding it closing at the same speed, and then softly lay the panel down. The last tap makes the closing mechanisme to click closed.
If you help the lids beyond normal closing speed of the strut, you will eventually break the hinge at the strut side because this will lift up the hinge, and we al know the VW price of that: €50.
Yes, it takes some time to close the lids, but what is time when you are on holidays? If you rather pay for new lids or hinges, go ahead.
 
I fitted a brand new gas strut yesterday to our T5 glass top, as the old one didn't even manage to hold it upright. I was expecting soft close but when you release it, it goes down really slowly for about 80% of the way, then crashes down in a way that you expect it to break the glass.

If this is indeed normal as I expect, the solution I have developed involves holding it as it closes, which I always remember half a second too late...

Hi

When you fitted the new gas strut did you get a new screw? The one that attaches the strut to the glass lid. Ours seems to no longer bite...we ordered a new strut but there was no replacement screw.

Thanks for reading and any info.

Robin
 
Hi Robin. I have just been and looked and no, my screws look to be 12 years old not 12 weeks old .

Hopefully it is the screw that is damaged and you can find a straight swap somewhere (try putting the bottom screw in the top - does that move the problem to the other end of the strut ) , otherwise you will need to find someone with a tap and die set to cut a new larger thread and get a larger threaded screw.

Probably a 5 minute job if you have the right tool. Or araldite the screw in ...
 
Hi Robin. I have just been and looked and no, my screws look to be 12 years old not 12 weeks old .

Hopefully it is the screw that is damaged and you can find a straight swap somewhere (try putting the bottom screw in the top - does that move the problem to the other end of the strut ) , otherwise you will need to find someone with a tap and die set to cut a new larger thread and get a larger threaded screw.

Probably a 5 minute job if you have the right tool. Or araldite the screw in ...

Thanks for looking and replying! On mine it appears the bottom screw is different to the top, I'll try to find a replacement screw first, will try hardware store here in France. Otherwise I think I'll be going to VW. Thanks again. Robin
 
Thanks for looking and replying! On mine it appears the bottom screw is different to the top, I'll try to find a replacement screw first, will try hardware store here in France. Otherwise I think I'll be going to VW. Thanks again. Robin
I replaced the glass on my T6 this week. If it's the same / similar to yours, which it sounds like it might be then I have the following experience:
  • The top screw to attach the strut to the glass is slotted for a flat head screwdriver. This screw should tighten and leave a small amount of play so that the strut can rotate on the screw.
  • The bottom screw uses an allen key and tightens into the nut.
  • The nylon washers for these two screws are different thicknesses. Check the fridge side (If it is still assembled to check the washers, but from memory, the thin one goes on the top.
There is no way to alter the strength of the gas strut to aid in a soft close. The strut makes a nice strong triangle between the glass and sink top when it is open, but when you close it, this collapses to a not so strong straight line. The only way would be to add a soft close catch somehow vertically from the surface to 'catch' the glass as it falls.
 
I replaced the glass on my T6 this week. If it's the same / similar to yours, which it sounds like it might be then I have the following experience:
  • The top screw to attach the strut to the glass is slotted for a flat head screwdriver. This screw should tighten and leave a small amount of play so that the strut can rotate on the screw.
  • The bottom screw uses an allen key and tightens into the nut.
  • The nylon washers for these two screws are different thicknesses. Check the fridge side (If it is still assembled to check the washers, but from memory, the thin one goes on the top.
There is no way to alter the strength of the gas strut to aid in a soft close. The strut makes a nice strong triangle between the glass and sink top when it is open, but when you close it, this collapses to a not so strong straight line. The only way would be to add a soft close catch somehow vertically from the surface to 'catch' the glass as it falls.
thanks for taking the time to reply, for me its the top screw attaching the strut to glass which came out...but seems to have damaged the thread as it doesnt tighten again. Frustrating as the strut was replaced by a VW garage at last service. Now we are in France for a while. If I can't find a work around or I find the thread in the fitting on the glass is damaged somehow I may be left no choice but to replace the glass lid. Do you mind if I ask how much that part was for you?
 
I replaced the glass on my T6 this week. If it's the same / similar to yours, which it sounds like it might be then I have the following experience:
  • The top screw to attach the strut to the glass is slotted for a flat head screwdriver. This screw should tighten and leave a small amount of play so that the strut can rotate on the screw.
  • The bottom screw uses an allen key and tightens into the nut.
  • The nylon washers for these two screws are different thicknesses. Check the fridge side (If it is still assembled to check the washers, but from memory, the thin one goes on the top.
There is no way to alter the strength of the gas strut to aid in a soft close. The strut makes a nice strong triangle between the glass and sink top when it is open, but when you close it, this collapses to a not so strong straight line. The only way would be to add a soft close catch somehow vertically from the surface to 'catch' the glass as it falls.
Then you can remove the strut and use the new hinges. Those work without gas struts, for fridge, cooker and washer lid.

Look at this movie at 2:44
 
thanks for taking the time to reply, for me its the top screw attaching the strut to glass which came out...but seems to have damaged the thread as it doesnt tighten again. Frustrating as the strut was replaced by a VW garage at last service. Now we are in France for a while. If I can't find a work around or I find the thread in the fitting on the glass is damaged somehow I may be left no choice but to replace the glass lid. Do you mind if I ask how much that part was for you?
400CHF. I’ve read on here ~300GBP in the UK.
It depends how picky you are but if it’s just the thread that is damaged I definitely think you’ll be able to find a cheaper workaround (bodge).
 
Then you can remove the strut and use the new hinges. Those work without gas struts, for fridge, cooker and washer lid.

Look at this movie at 2:44
I don’t think those hinges would be retro-fittable to the T6 or T5.
 
Then you can remove the strut and use the new hinges. Those work without gas struts, for fridge, cooker and washer lid.

Look at this movie at 2:44
Thanks but nothing appears, could you share the raw http:// link?
 
https://www. youtube.com/watch?v=rmshvpdCKXo&t=24s

remove the space between www. and youtube
 
https://www. youtube.com/watch?v=rmshvpdCKXo&t=24s

remove the space between www. and youtube

Interesting Thanks!

Have you retro fitted these *new* hinges to an older model (T5, 5.1 or 6) and know whether they have the same fittings so can be interchanged?
 
I have not and I don't know, but if you know VW, you will know they don't change that much to an existing design, so they might just fit 1 on 1. But I am not sure.
 
I have not and I don't know, but if you know VW, you will know they don't change that much to an existing design, so they might just fit 1 on 1. But I am not sure.
The hinges on the cover in the video are not at the same 90deg angle as the hinges in the older style. The bolts also look closer together. I would say with 90% confidence they will not fit or work without some involved hackery.
 
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