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Torque settings for wheel bolts ?

EddieEagle

EddieEagle

VIP Member
Messages
752
Location
Hampshire
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
Torque settings for wheel bolts is 180 nm
I use 150 nm for locking wheel bolts..........

I know these figures are Ford specific but see no reason not to use the same 15% less for locking bolts so applying minus 15% to 180 nm gives 150 nm.
B0BC8B79-8872-46D5-BBF4-494633979667.jpeg
Makes sense to me as the VW locknut key/bolt is easilly damaged.
The ultimate solution, however, is to bin the locking ones and replace with normal bolts .

I am standing well back and wearing wearing ppe in the form of a tin helmet ....
 
Last edited:
Torque settings for wheel nuts is 180 nm
I use 150 nm for locking wheel nuts..........

I know these figures are Ford specific but see no reason not to use the same 15% less for locking nuts so applying minus 15% to 180 nm gives 150 nm.
View attachment 58417
Makes sense to me as the VW locknut key/bolt is easilly damaged.
The ultimate solution, however, is to bin the locking ones and replace with normal bolts .

I am standing well back and wearing wearing ppe in the form of a tin helmet ....

That’s what I have 180 nm on all as I’ve removed the locking nuts and replaced with standard.

So far so good


Mike
 
Are you taking the p1ss Eddie

Last nights showdown ended with torque settings and that thread has
now been banished :)
 
As that thread seems to have disappeared i don’t know what was the consensus in the end
I have a lot of time on my hands
 
As that thread seems to have disappeared i don’t know what was the consensus in the end
I have a lot of time on my hands

Don’t believe there was a consensus on anything.
Didn’t know it had been taken down. Thought it was quiet.

Edit: It’s still there.

It might though have moved.

I use Tapatalk so no difference for me.


Mike
 
180 nm....or buzzed with a windy gun at shitfit
 
Nasty. Awful job sorting that out :(
 
As that thread seems to have disappeared i don’t know what was the consensus in the end
I have a lot of time on my hands

The thread has not disappeared but it is now in the sin-bin .... "Three cocks, anything goes" section in general chat. You can find it there and happily contribute .... I think we have now moved on from wheel nuts via eggs to something else .....
 
The different torques values on the CMax are fastener design dependant, not ease of removal dependent, surprisingly.

Its probably best to follow the manufacturers instructions unless you don’t mind your wheels falling off.

E737A685-B70A-41E0-BB79-96594B177414.jpeg
 
Torque settings are a nightmare! You can read so much stuff on the subject. Lube or no lube. Most of the torque goes into overcoming friction. I’ve had sleepless nights over it. I’ve used dial gauges to measure bolt stretch instead of torque I’ve used total angle rotation also.

In short, I’ve never had a wheel nut sheer or come loose, just tighten it to the point you know you can shift it at the road side if needed.
 
Torque settings are a nightmare! You can read so much stuff on the subject. Lube or no lube. Most of the torque goes into overcoming friction. I’ve had sleepless nights over it. I’ve used dial gauges to measure bolt stretch instead of torque I’ve used total angle rotation also.

In short, I’ve never had a wheel nut sheer or come loose, just tighten it to the point you know you can shift it at the road side if needed.

If in doubt there are a number of alternative torque settings, these include.

Loose
Slack
Finger tight
Tight
Good and tight
Really tight
F@&king tight
F@&king tight with Loctite
Really F@&king tight
Big bar tight
And stripped
 
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You missed 2 off the list, I forgot to do the sodding thing up loose, and jump up & down on big bar tight. Doing the first normally leads to doing the second next time.
 
With broken wheel bolts like that, it has to be a Fiat
Sheared bolts inserted cross threaded with a windy gun by a Greek tyre fitter in Corfu. Fiat Ducatto.
Sheared when trying to change a punctured wheel.
 
Torque settings are a nightmare! You can read so much stuff on the subject. Lube or no lube. Most of the torque goes into overcoming friction. I’ve had sleepless nights over it. I’ve used dial gauges to measure bolt stretch instead of torque I’ve used total angle rotation also.

In short, I’ve never had a wheel nut sheer or come loose, just tighten it to the point you know you can shift it at the road side if needed.

It‘s probably best simply to follow the manufacturers instructions.

Alternatively you could just guess and hope for best.
 
Police officers attended the scene from Norfolk Constabulary’s Serious Collision Investigation Team. An officer checked the torque settings on each of the four wheel-nuts on the remaining tyres and found wheel-bolts had not been correctly tightened. In one case, two wheel-nuts on one wheel were only tightened to two-thirds of the level they should have been.

CarShop was alerted and arranged for an independent inspection of the vehicle. The engineer conducting the inspection concluded that “the loss of the left front wheel is a direct result of the wheel bolts being inadequately tightened when last refitted allowing subsequent use to cause the bolts to work loose eventually allowing the wheel to detach from the hub”.


If a detached wheel injured or killed somebody else due to incorrect torque who would be responsible?
 

I’m sure you many of will be able to advise the barrister how they should be doing their job in any subsequent court case though, so no worries there. :)
You've really got the bit between your teeth now. I agree that this is a subject which is not given enough attention by the average driver/owner
 
Oh dear, I only responded to a discussion about reduced torque on locking wheel bolts and am now being bombarded with tales of accidents and woe caused by incorrect tightening and lack of proper care mounting wheels.
Whilst very informative scaremongery isn't relevant here as tightening bolts, with a torque wrench, using manufacturers recommended settings isn't going to cause an accident.
The locking bolt setting is debatable hence the post. The C Max figures were given me by a Ford dealer so it is acceptable to reduce the torque on locking bolts. The cmaxowmers club forum thread also suggested anything from 85nm so not very helpful.

Of course if bolts/nuts are loose or sheared due to misuse then accidents are going to happen.
4 bolts at 180nm and 1 bolt at 150nm , as in 870nm total instead of 900nm is perfectly acceptable and last time I looked all my wheels are still there.

I am more concerned that being stuck by the roadside with a bolt which won't come off because of a damaged lock key is dangerous so as per my original post will plough my own furrow on this one.
 
Wheels coming off these days pretty rarely I'm guessing. Unlike the good old days when many Morris Minor drivers became acquainted with "Moggie-one-way-wheel-the-other" (sheared king pin, very common).
 
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