Waking the sleeper... Pop up roof tensioning

[Mike Frost]

Dear All,

Once again I come, cap in hand, to the fount of all knowledge - California wise, that is!

When first we bought Barbara Ann, the onboard systems would, periodically, retension the pop up roof ; gave us the fright of our lives the first time, as it took place at about 3.00 a.m.!

But this function has apparently gone to sleep, i.e. it doesn't happen any more, and we are obliged to half drop the roof and re raise it every 3 days or so, to deal with the sag on one side.

Does anyone know how I could tweak the software, so as to get this facility working again?

As ever, I'd be deeply obliged for any help.

Mike

 

[WelshGas]

Dear All,

Once again I come, cap in hand, to the fount of all knowledge - California wise, that is!

When first we bought Barbara Ann, the onboard systems would, periodically, retension the pop up roof ; gave us the fright of our lives the first time, as it took place at about 3.00 a.m.!

But this function has apparently gone to sleep, i.e. it doesn't happen any more, and we are obliged to half drop the roof and re raise it every 3 days or so, to deal with the sag on one side.

Does anyone know how I could tweak the software, so as to get this facility working again?

As ever, I'd be deeply obliged for any help.

Mike

Check for any Diagnostic Codes stored by the Control zpanel?

For those of you who don't know, if you ever get any problems with roof stuck or any other error say with the heater or fridge, you are able to access the hidden menu in your control panel as used by the VW Engineers.

Access as follows:



1. Hold down the centre of the rotary button together with the menu button (button below with the squares on it)

2. You will get the hidden menu.

3. Rotate the rotary button to get to "VW diagnose" and select this by pressing on the centre of the rotary button.

4. If no errors are present it will display "no errors"

5. If Errors are present then a list of errors will appear

6. Press the centre of the rotary button again to delete all the errors

7. Repeat process above just to check that errors have dissapeared!

8. Re-configure the time and date if neccesary.



Any problems should be resolved assuming these are Electronic and not Mechanical.





Error Codes from Control Panel.





1 = 1 = Pop-up roof

2 = 2 = Plumbing Heating

3 = 3 = Cool box Cooler

4 = 4 = Sewage wastewater

5 = 5 = Fresh water

6 = 6 = Outside temperature

7 = 7 = Battery

Error Code Defect Fault

1010 1010 Short-circuit to (earth) roof

1001 1001 Fuse / short circuit to (plus+) roof

1100 1100 Short-circuit output Roof "on"

1101 1101 Fuse roof "to"

1110 1110 Short-circuit output Roof "to"

1111 1111 Fuse starting Roof "to"

2100 2100 Short-circuit output heating on / off

2101 2101 Fuse output heating on / off

2001 2001 Interrupt input heating 30

3100 3100 Short-circuit output coolbox

3101 3101 Fuse interrupt output coolbox

3001 3001-J698-cooler input error "Active"

3010 3010 Short-circuit input icebox "actual temperature"

3011 3011 Interrupt or fuse input icebox "actual temperature"

4000 4000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

4001 4001 Fuse circuit to plus water level sensor failure

5000 5000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

5001 5001 Short circuit to plus water level sensor failure

6000 6000 Short-circuit to ground temperature sensor or for outdoor temperature

6001 6001 Fuse / short circuit to plus two temperature sensors for outside temperature

7001 7001 interrupt input interrupt input D +

 

[Mike Frost]

Check for any Diagnostic Codes stored by the Control zpanel?

For those of you who don't know, if you ever get any problems with roof stuck or any other error say with the heater or fridge, you are able to access the hidden menu in your control panel as used by the VW Engineers.

Access as follows:



1. Hold down the centre of the rotary button together with the menu button (button below with the squares on it)

2. You will get the hidden menu.

3. Rotate the rotary button to get to "VW diagnose" and select this by pressing on the centre of the rotary button.

4. If no errors are present it will display "no errors"

5. If Errors are present then a list of errors will appear

6. Press the centre of the rotary button again to delete all the errors

7. Repeat process above just to check that errors have dissapeared!

8. Re-configure the time and date if neccesary.



Any problems should be resolved assuming these are Electronic and not Mechanical.





Error Codes from Control Panel.





1 = 1 = Pop-up roof

2 = 2 = Plumbing Heating

3 = 3 = Cool box Cooler

4 = 4 = Sewage wastewater

5 = 5 = Fresh water

6 = 6 = Outside temperature

7 = 7 = Battery

Error Code Defect Fault

1010 1010 Short-circuit to (earth) roof

1001 1001 Fuse / short circuit to (plus+) roof

1100 1100 Short-circuit output Roof "on"

1101 1101 Fuse roof "to"

1110 1110 Short-circuit output Roof "to"

1111 1111 Fuse starting Roof "to"

2100 2100 Short-circuit output heating on / off

2101 2101 Fuse output heating on / off

2001 2001 Interrupt input heating 30

3100 3100 Short-circuit output coolbox

3101 3101 Fuse interrupt output coolbox

3001 3001-J698-cooler input error "Active"

3010 3010 Short-circuit input icebox "actual temperature"

3011 3011 Interrupt or fuse input icebox "actual temperature"

4000 4000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

4001 4001 Fuse circuit to plus water level sensor failure

5000 5000 Short-circuit to ground water level sensor

5001 5001 Short circuit to plus water level sensor failure

6000 6000 Short-circuit to ground temperature sensor or for outdoor temperature

6001 6001 Fuse / short circuit to plus two temperature sensors for outside temperature

7001 7001 interrupt input interrupt input D +

Welsh Gas,

Once again, deeply in your debt; thank you very much for this tutorial on the control box.

suffice to say, I've copied it, printed it, and am about to laminate for permanent residence in the glove box!

I'm sure that this will do the job.

 

[Mike Frost]

WelshGas,

Ran your tutored procedure this morning, and the screen came up - No Errors! - .

I'll try again with roof up, and see if that brings up anything.

We were obliged to buy and fit a new control box last year, when our original got 'lost in the post' between here and the Netherlands - that may also have some bearing on the issue...

Anyway, no further forward on the raised to retensioning sub programme.

Thanks again,.

 

[WelshGas]

WelshGas,

Ran your tutored procedure this morning, and the screen came up - No Errors! - .

I'll try again with roof up, and see if that brings up anything.

We were obliged to buy and fit a new control box last year, when our original got 'lost in the post' between here and the Netherlands - that may also have some bearing on the issue...

Anyway, no further forward on the raised to retensioning sub programme.

Thanks again,.

Having re-read your original post have you always had the uni-lateral sagging on the roof?
I think the automatic re-tensioning functioning is more to do with overall changes in hydraulic pressure due to temperature changes being compensated for ie: both sides will have sagged a little and equal amount.
Having 1 side only affected may indicate a problem which has prevented measurement of whichever parameter the system measures to activate the automatic re-tensioning.

 

[Mike Frost]

Hello. Yes, the problem developed a couple of years ago, prior to that the automatic retensioning worked. But, it has also worked since the driver's side sagging - after about 3 days - commenced. So as you infer, the one may preclude the other function, but it hasn't been a black and white transition. Having coughed up for so many other issues with the van, I'm reluctant to go about replacing the roof hydraulics, as the cost will be prohibitive, and the half way lower and raise has been a good enough fix until now.
You mentioned in another thread about the 'clock resetting' for roof retention when the radio was turned on etc. Our radio is an aftermarket installation, acquired with the van - we bought her 8 years old - and is connected directly to the starter battery, so not part of the California system, but we wondered if that could trigger the clock reset, whether using internal or external locking might do the same thing ?

 

[WelshGas]

Hello. Yes, the problem developed a couple of years ago, prior to that the automatic retensioning worked. But, it has also worked since the driver's side sagging - after about 3 days - commenced. So as you infer, the one may preclude the other function, but it hasn't been a black and white transition. Having coughed up for so many other issues with the van, I'm reluctant to go about replacing the roof hydraulics, as the cost will be prohibitive, and the half way lower and raise has been a good enough fix until now.
You mentioned in another thread about the 'clock resetting' for roof retention when the radio was turned on etc. Our radio is an aftermarket installation, acquired with the van - we bought her 8 years old - and is connected directly to the starter battery, so not part of the California system, but we wondered if that could trigger the clock reset, whether using internal or external locking might do the same thing ?

I’m afraid I don’t recollect that comment . As far as I am aware the Self Adjustment is timed from the last Ignition Off. Normally 10 hrs and then, apparently every 5 hrs, but I have only had it action once in the past 6+ yrs, despite having the roof up for a number of days, the longest being about 14 days.

 

[ArunAlec]

Having re-read your original post have you always had the uni-lateral sagging on the roof?
I think the automatic re-tensioning functioning is more to do with overall changes in hydraulic pressure due to temperature changes being compensated for ie: both sides will have sagged a little and equal amount.
Having 1 side only affected may indicate a problem which has prevented measurement of whichever parameter the system measures to activate the automatic re-tensioning.

Mine only sags on one side and only slightly over around 12 hours but the auto tensioner still kicks in either at 15 or 20 hours, so I assume it’s monitoring both sides independently.

 

[WelshGas]

Mine only sags on one side and only slightly over around 12 hours but the auto tensioner still kicks in either at 15 or 20 hours, so I assume it’s monitoring both sides independently.

I suppose it might depend on the amount of unilateral sag. I don’t know if the hydraulic system monitors and varies the pressure side to side but suspect not. More likely the overall pressure and possibly the ram positions via the 4 sensors. If pressure drops and ram sensor input is roughly comparable then auto-tensioner works. If not, and sensor input is asynchronous then no auto- tensioner.
Just a hypothesis.

 

[DavidinWales]

Check for any Diagnostic Codes stored by the Control zpanel?

For those of you who don't know, if you ever get any problems with roof stuck or any other error say with the heater or fridge, you are able to access the hidden menu in your control panel as used by the VW Engineers.

Access as follows:



1. Hold down the centre of the rotary button together with the menu button (button below with the squares on it)

Hi, I have a T6.1 Ocean and don't see any button with squares on it below the rotary.

 

[yossarian]

Hi, I have a T6.1 Ocean and don't see any button with squares on it below the rotary.

The advice was for someone with a T5 SE 140. Yours is different and has a more automotive philosophy.