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Need some urgent help - How on earth does the headliner come out? 2010 SE

FredFlintstone

FredFlintstone

VIP Member
Messages
132
Location
West Midlands
Vehicle
T5 SE 180
Removed the following:
Control panel
Interior light, sunglasses holder
Interior light
Sunvisors
A pillar trims
B pillar trims

...

But how on earth do I release the headliner from the vehicle?

It seems that the perimeter of the roof opening is holding it fast - just how do I release it?

Any help, videos especially - Transporter videos aren't sufficient as they are differently attached (no roof opening).

Any help would be VERY VERY welcome

Best regards
 
Removed the following:
Control panel
Interior light, sunglasses holder
Interior light
Sunvisors
A pillar trims
B pillar trims

...

But how on earth do I release the headliner from the vehicle?

It seems that the perimeter of the roof opening is holding it fast - just how do I release it?

Any help, videos especially - Transporter videos aren't sufficient as they are differently attached (no roof opening).

Any help would be VERY VERY welcome

Best regards
The track that holds the roof blind in, needs to come out. There are a couple of rivets under the felt tape at the end of the tracks. The track was also stuck on with a hard sealant and took a hard tug. Also there is screws that hold the headliner in behind the sunglasses/ control panel, the plastic holder has screws that hold it in that have to come out also.
 
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On both sides there are 2 rivets. I just drilled off the heads, and left the rest of the rivets in place. Then unscrew the light on the left, lift up the sliders/runners (with the roof and hatch completely open). Then you must be able to lift the headliner over the edge.
IMG_20200114_125007.jpg
 
On both sides there are 2 rivets. I just drilled off the heads, and left the rest of the rivets in place. Then unscrew the light on the left, lift up the sliders/runners (with the roof and hatch completely open). Then you must be able to lift the headliner over the edge.
View attachment 122936
On both sides there are 2 rivets. I just drilled off the heads, and left the rest of the rivets in place. Then unscrew the light on the left, lift up the sliders/runners (with the roof and hatch completely open). Then you must be able to lift the headliner over the edge.
View attachment 122936
 
Weather permitting, I'll plan to investigate this tomorrow.

So, under this tape there are two rivets?

Can I PM you for a little on the spot advice and direction tomorrow

So, so grateful for the info here. I just need to interpret this.

Thanks

20240505_203039.jpg
 
You can pm me, but if you feel under the felt tape, I think you can feel the heads.
I just left the rest of the rivets in, so I can now get everything back out without having to drill rivets again.
I have to work tomorrow, so I can only help you out further as from 19u30 (18u30 UK time?).
You will have to drill out the rivets before you can lift up the runners, as they are secured mainly with the rivets. The rest might be glued here or there, but on mine they weren't.
You can take a hair dryer and warm up the runners without burning the headliner, to loosen the eventual glue.
 
Thanks so much.

I'm not sure how it all comes apart to be honest, does to slatted roof panel track clamp the headlining in place or is it glued to the headlining?

After the rivets are drilled, can you just list out the next steps, the next actions, the next processes?

With roof opened and rivets drilled, do I lift the track, or lower the track, is it clipped in and if so where abouts? Etc, etc?

I'll try to do this tomorrow, so really keen that I approach this in the correct way. Thanks

Once the headlining is removed.. then I need to locate the leak, the roof drain on the front LH side is very very slow when compared to the RH side and water drips into the vehicle, down A pillar over dash and into floor!
 
The runners need to be lifted up. They are not glued to the headliner. It is just pushed over it.
Photo below: right side
IMG_20200528_123823.jpg

photo below: front middle
IMG_20200528_123836.jpg

photo below: runner right side
IMG_20200528_123856.jpg

Upper drain pipe connection is on my first picture in my first post the brown tube (right of photo). You follow it upwards, till you feel a 90° angle connection. I have no better photo, because you can hardly see it.
And to prevent the drain tubes from clogging up, you will have to open the exits of the drains completely.
 
Thanks So much for the help here!
Does anyone know what rivets to use to replace those ones, the track needs to be retained (as it moves up and prevents the slatted door being closed)?

Also what foam tape can I use to replace the removed tape?

Thsnks
 
Thanks So much for the help here!
Does anyone know what rivets to use to replace those ones, the track needs to be retained (as it moves up and prevents the slatted door being closed)?

Also what foam tape can I use to replace the removed tape?

Thsnks

The rail uses 3.2 x 12mm Countersunk Open Head Aluminium Steel Blind Rivets

I haven't found an ideal replacement tape. I have used felt harness tape but found it tends to pull off, i have also used anti-rattle felt tape, but it is a touch too thick.

I ended up with some very thin anti-rattle stick on felt that I got given, but no one knows who makes it or where it came from.

A
 
Try a search for felt tape (Tesa?). Measure the width you need, and try to find out what you need.
 
The felt tape that is used to create a surface for the tambour hatch to run on is very similar to the fluffy part of Velcro.
Self adhesive Velcro cut to size looks the part and does the job as good as factory tape.
 
The felt tape that is used to create a surface for the tambour hatch to run on is very similar to the fluffy part of Velcro.
Self adhesive Velcro cut to size looks the part and does the job as good as factory tape.
Awesome suggestion, thanks
 

The rail uses 3.2 x 12mm Countersunk Open Head Aluminium Steel Blind Rivets

I haven't found an ideal replacement tape. I have used felt harness tape but found it tends to pull off, i have also used anti-rattle felt tape, but it is a touch too thick.

I ended up with some very thin anti-rattle stick on felt that I got given, but no one knows who makes it or where it came from.

A
Now.. just wondering, is it possible to obtain the VW part number for the rivets? Asking as VW local couldn't identify them and the diagram confused us both.

17152874230646181861158584869840.jpg

17152874679285583337740791853309.jpg
 
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