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BeaJ
As we are about to embark on winter Cali camping for skiiing, I did some research and thought others might also benefit from having it all in one place. Couldn't find anywhere logical to file it, so went with beginners section...
Tips for winter camping (compiled from Winterised Facebook group and Official VW California Club)
Tip 1 - to use a topper or not?
If sleeping upstairs, consensus is for YES!
Worth fitting paracord to each corner and centre of leading edge to make it easier to put on
Sleeping downstairs will be warmer, at the cost of having to move stuff around to pull out the bed. Upstairs bed is also wider and more comfortable. If you sleep with the roof closed you will need to ventilate through a window!
If upstairs, without a heating duct the heat barely reaches the bed upstairs. You can also sleep downstairs with the roof and bed up, you really need the ventilation.
Consider to prop the roof as the gas struts have more to cope with: weight of snow and contraction of gas due to cold
Toppers are harder to pack when wet – if yours is snug in the bag, consider a larger dry bag to speed up the process and pack it tightly when you get home
If topper has a silver side, fit that outwards as snow slides of fit better
Some models go outside the scissors, which protects the mechanism from ice buildup (important when lowering), but may not be as warm or are noisy in the wind as looser.
Be careful with your roof (and opening doors) after a heavy frost, forcing either could pull the rubber seal/trim off
Tip 2 – dealing with other freezing issues
Avoid trying to open electric windows after heavy frost as this can pull the glass off the regulator. Should be ok once vehicle is warm inside.
If you deploy the awning NEVER try and roll up (stow) your awning if it's wet, damp, icy, frosty etc. and the air temperature is below zero (can freeze midway). That said, an awning front and sides or separate awning tent can give a bit of extra room getting kit off/storing gear, especially if using both beds.
If you are parked for a long period it is also recommended to chock the wheels and release the handbrake to prevent the brake pads from freezing to the disks
Tip 3 - Heating
Most people seem to leave the heating on infinity time and low level (1-3) 24/7, but watch the charge on the battery (generator, EHU, solar or drive/run the vehicle – takes a while) and diesel levels. Remember to ventilate (windows or pop top)
Various cost estimates – (1) Diesel usage – 4l per 24h (2) £15-£20 for the heating for four days (3) used less than quarter of a tank over 5 nights
Recommend to leave kitchen cupboard doors ajar otherwise the water freezes and the gas won’t run at full blast (assuming yours is a California) – but also an advantage for storing food/drinks, use as required
On hook up, oil filled radiator preferred (between front seats) over fan heater as less drying to the eyes etc. Manual output selection on Kw to avoid tripping the hook-up. At least 1Kw
Ideally, bring the bed down in the day to have less space to heat (but would mean demounting the topper)
Various options to run heating duct around the van to the back/under the bed as well as into the pop top. With the latter, recommended to leave some air going to the main space to stop it getting cold
Tip 4 - Drying stuff
Stay on a campsite with drying room
Hire a heated locker
Go to the bar after skiing
Put everything to dry in the van on cord, pop the top and vent a little. Crank the heating, go do something (shower, dinner) then come back
Use a mini boot dryer if on EHU, otherwise one of the silica gel containing products which last a few days before needing drying
Tip 5 – Ski/board storage
Remove the small panel drawer front in the under seat drawer to have pass through storage (especially for travelling)
Remove all the drawers for max secure ski storage
Lie in the back across the doorway tips to the back and tails slip between the passenger seat and door
When at the resort I just leave them stuck in the snow outside the van
Just put the skis in the middle of the car, in between the front seats next to the handbrake on the way to and from the ski resort
Use a rear rack, overnight padlock gear to that
Snowboards fit perfectly down the left handside, in the back, with the rear seat in the forward position
Use a stiff brush to get the snow off your equipment as it'll be frozen on by morning if outside and brings moisture in if storing inside
Rent a ski locker
Tip 6 - Gaz
Propane over butane for cold temperatures
Tip 7 - Insulation
California fittings have an airgap to the metal skin rather than insulation. Notable exceptions, the cupboards which back onto the metal. Condensation or ice could then occur, which can even melt, run into the seat rails and freeze, blocking them. Cupboards can be insulated with e.g. foil backed bubble wrap cut to shape (also the gaz cylinder). Some comments that keeping the vehicle heated and ventilated can avoid this altogether.
Screen cover with side door windows can hinder ventilation, so using the pop top can help with the latter. Ultimately looking for a balance - when it's cold, you want some, but you don't want a lot of ventilation (=cold coming in). When it is really cold, it is a delicate balance between enough ventilation and keeping the warmth in, and sometimes that balance is such that there is some condensation.
Windscreen cover recommended
Side window covers often not needed especially for those with double glazing in the hab
Floor is not insulated, so get a rug or a 12v heating mat
Tip 8 - Water management
Water tanks – drain and keep both empty to avoid freezing issues (use jerrycans), waste water disposed on in drain at aire
If you do use the tanks, keep the heater on and leave the cupboard doors open and close the grey water drain valve, drain it fully when tank is partially full, then close it again (or slow trickle will ice up)
Tip 9 - Battery management
Every start needs the equivalent of 11 miles driving to replenish the charge used to start. If you are going to just run the engine, then I would advise putting your sidelights on whilst you leave it running
Tips for winter camping (compiled from Winterised Facebook group and Official VW California Club)
Tip 1 - to use a topper or not?
If sleeping upstairs, consensus is for YES!
Worth fitting paracord to each corner and centre of leading edge to make it easier to put on
Sleeping downstairs will be warmer, at the cost of having to move stuff around to pull out the bed. Upstairs bed is also wider and more comfortable. If you sleep with the roof closed you will need to ventilate through a window!
If upstairs, without a heating duct the heat barely reaches the bed upstairs. You can also sleep downstairs with the roof and bed up, you really need the ventilation.
Consider to prop the roof as the gas struts have more to cope with: weight of snow and contraction of gas due to cold
Toppers are harder to pack when wet – if yours is snug in the bag, consider a larger dry bag to speed up the process and pack it tightly when you get home
If topper has a silver side, fit that outwards as snow slides of fit better
Some models go outside the scissors, which protects the mechanism from ice buildup (important when lowering), but may not be as warm or are noisy in the wind as looser.
Be careful with your roof (and opening doors) after a heavy frost, forcing either could pull the rubber seal/trim off
Tip 2 – dealing with other freezing issues
Avoid trying to open electric windows after heavy frost as this can pull the glass off the regulator. Should be ok once vehicle is warm inside.
If you deploy the awning NEVER try and roll up (stow) your awning if it's wet, damp, icy, frosty etc. and the air temperature is below zero (can freeze midway). That said, an awning front and sides or separate awning tent can give a bit of extra room getting kit off/storing gear, especially if using both beds.
If you are parked for a long period it is also recommended to chock the wheels and release the handbrake to prevent the brake pads from freezing to the disks
Tip 3 - Heating
Most people seem to leave the heating on infinity time and low level (1-3) 24/7, but watch the charge on the battery (generator, EHU, solar or drive/run the vehicle – takes a while) and diesel levels. Remember to ventilate (windows or pop top)
Various cost estimates – (1) Diesel usage – 4l per 24h (2) £15-£20 for the heating for four days (3) used less than quarter of a tank over 5 nights
Recommend to leave kitchen cupboard doors ajar otherwise the water freezes and the gas won’t run at full blast (assuming yours is a California) – but also an advantage for storing food/drinks, use as required
On hook up, oil filled radiator preferred (between front seats) over fan heater as less drying to the eyes etc. Manual output selection on Kw to avoid tripping the hook-up. At least 1Kw
Ideally, bring the bed down in the day to have less space to heat (but would mean demounting the topper)
Various options to run heating duct around the van to the back/under the bed as well as into the pop top. With the latter, recommended to leave some air going to the main space to stop it getting cold
Tip 4 - Drying stuff
Stay on a campsite with drying room
Hire a heated locker
Go to the bar after skiing
Put everything to dry in the van on cord, pop the top and vent a little. Crank the heating, go do something (shower, dinner) then come back
Use a mini boot dryer if on EHU, otherwise one of the silica gel containing products which last a few days before needing drying
Tip 5 – Ski/board storage
Remove the small panel drawer front in the under seat drawer to have pass through storage (especially for travelling)
Remove all the drawers for max secure ski storage
Lie in the back across the doorway tips to the back and tails slip between the passenger seat and door
When at the resort I just leave them stuck in the snow outside the van
Just put the skis in the middle of the car, in between the front seats next to the handbrake on the way to and from the ski resort
Use a rear rack, overnight padlock gear to that
Snowboards fit perfectly down the left handside, in the back, with the rear seat in the forward position
Use a stiff brush to get the snow off your equipment as it'll be frozen on by morning if outside and brings moisture in if storing inside
Rent a ski locker
Tip 6 - Gaz
Propane over butane for cold temperatures
Tip 7 - Insulation
California fittings have an airgap to the metal skin rather than insulation. Notable exceptions, the cupboards which back onto the metal. Condensation or ice could then occur, which can even melt, run into the seat rails and freeze, blocking them. Cupboards can be insulated with e.g. foil backed bubble wrap cut to shape (also the gaz cylinder). Some comments that keeping the vehicle heated and ventilated can avoid this altogether.
Screen cover with side door windows can hinder ventilation, so using the pop top can help with the latter. Ultimately looking for a balance - when it's cold, you want some, but you don't want a lot of ventilation (=cold coming in). When it is really cold, it is a delicate balance between enough ventilation and keeping the warmth in, and sometimes that balance is such that there is some condensation.
Windscreen cover recommended
Side window covers often not needed especially for those with double glazing in the hab
Floor is not insulated, so get a rug or a 12v heating mat
Tip 8 - Water management
Water tanks – drain and keep both empty to avoid freezing issues (use jerrycans), waste water disposed on in drain at aire
If you do use the tanks, keep the heater on and leave the cupboard doors open and close the grey water drain valve, drain it fully when tank is partially full, then close it again (or slow trickle will ice up)
Tip 9 - Battery management
Every start needs the equivalent of 11 miles driving to replenish the charge used to start. If you are going to just run the engine, then I would advise putting your sidelights on whilst you leave it running