Buy all your VW California Accessories at the Club Shop Visit Shop

Changing roof elevating jack ( roof dropping on one side )

Re: Changing roof elevating jack ( roof dropping on one side

I was wondering if there was anyone who could repair these pumps? Seems such a waste to throw them away?
 
We have just encountered the dropping roof problem after two nights, ours is on the offside, have advised VW Van Centre Edinburgh and are waiting on their response.

P2260227.JPG Will keep you posted on the outcome.
 
I don't think a small amount of " droop" is unusual after a couple of days. The van should automatically adjust it periodically. Mine dropped as much as in the picture in just a couple of minutes.
 
The drop does not seem usual to me, this has never been a problem before and just started, I am concerned it will only get worse, I would be interested just how "usual" this is with other cali owners.
 
I don't think a small amount of " droop" is unusual after a couple of days. The van should automatically adjust it periodically. Mine dropped as much as in the picture in just a couple of minutes.

Hi Greg,

Have now seen the info on the auto adjust (was not aware of this function) however this does not appear to be happening on our van, hopefully the dealer can resolve this.
 
My cali was at vw edinburgh van centre Friday to Monday with the roof up, it did not move despite being up over the weekend, typical! They did check everything they could and found nothing, just need to keep an eye on this.
 
I don't think a small amount of " droop" is unusual after a couple of days. The van should automatically adjust it periodically. Mine dropped as much as in the picture in just a couple of minutes.
The newer Cali's do correct the diffrence between the two sides automaticly .
This happens automaticly 12h afther one turns of the contact when the roof is opend. You suddenly hear the pump for few seconds eventhow you ain't pushing the button.
But my guess many of us do turn the contact back on before this 12h time periode is expired , for instance for turning on the radio or so...that means the whole cyclus will start again and resulting in a roof that don't gets corrected and afther few days on same site , then it shows difference.
Heat also has influece on the thickness and pressure of the oil in the two cylinders, on the sunny side it probally go down due to the oil getting thinner when realy hot.
Al things conciderd it for sure can be a technical problem whitch need to be sorted by the dealer.
 
I was shown the schematic vw use for mechanics working on the system, the staff of vw edinburgh had never heard of a auto correction facility and there was nothing on the diagram they had that showed it.

Does anyone have a diagram the shows how this is controlled, must be pressure or position monitoring and a controller.
 
Download the California tech manual from our downloads section, shows all the equipment but does not describe any auto correction?
 
Hi, it's on page 18 of the California supplement next to a wee 'i' for info. It says "Roof hydraulics; the pop-up height of the roof will be checked automatically and altered if necessary at regular intervals after the ignition has been switched off and the ignition key removed: first after 10 hours and then every 5 hours."

That said, we have never been aware of ours doing this though someone did post previously about the fright they got when theirs did adjust in the middle of the night.
 
2. To remove control panel the manual suggests using a screwdriver and easing out the panel, what you need is two not one tools and NOT a screwdriver. the panel is held by the old type car radio flexible tabs, what you need is 2 thin metal strips, one each side to allow forward and then downward movement of the panel...gently.. I used cutlery two thin knives worked well.

The back of a coffee spoon works perfect to remove the control panel.

Also if you have problems with the roof or any other thing controlled by this panel, try first with engine ON to press and hold the "back" button for at least 15 seconds. It will reset any faults and maybe it will just start working well. Some roof failures are not due to faulty parts, but just electronic errors. If you operate the roof without engine ON you risk that it goes in error.
 
The back of a coffee spoon works perfect to remove the control panel.

Also if you have problems with the roof or any other thing controlled by this panel, try first with engine ON to press and hold the "back" button for at least 15 seconds. It will reset any faults and maybe it will just start working well. Some roof failures are not due to faulty parts, but just electronic errors. If you operate the roof without engine ON you risk that it goes in error.

Thanks, will try a reset.
 
Re: Changing roof elevating jack

Hi just followed some very comprehensive instructions on how to change the jack. i thought all had gone well until final stage and upon re~pressurising system to raise roof from a mid position, with all connections made hydraulic and mechanical the hydraulic fluid just leaked out from rear connection and followed drain line to rear of van and drain..... :headbang

so what i am after is information on refilling the reservoir wherever it is and any ideas from members. i have checked that the hyd lines were not trapped and blocked etc perhaps just unlucky with the jack?

may have to go to dealer after all.....any dealer out there done this job before, mine cant even change the rear brake light without making a mess of the job..thanks :help

Hi - very simple way of refilling the reservoir which is joined to the hydraulic pump, you take down the control panel where the interior light is at the front, loosen headligning - 2 stainless steel torque screws hold a plastic strap and allows you to lower the foam casing which encloses the pump. That will swing down and you can see the reservoir. Undo jubilee clip, slide out bowl, fill to level, repeat the process. Hope this is of some help.
 
The 4 month old (Dealers) Cali has just starting to do this on the nearside. Ours arrives on Wednesday. Fingers crossed.
 
Anyone know why roof sagging (on one side) might occur regularly and worsening...only to suddenly stop doing it? Definitely not the re-tensioning process! Can hydrolics do this? Bubbles?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Anyone know why roof sagging (on one side) might occur regularly and worsening...only to suddenly stop doing it? Definitely not the re-tensioning process! Can hydrolics do this? Bubbles?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even VW don't......
Faulty pump , faulty strud , leak , .....?

If Cali still in warrenty , go to your dealer.
If not , go to your dealer....

Some on here have VW replacing some parts under warrenty.

Use the search function " shaggy roof"
 
Proceed with caution searching for "shaggy roof" :Grin


Yeah yeah , don't mind my Englisch writing....doing my best...could do it in Dutch or French ...up to you
 
Re: Changing roof elevating jack

NOT MY WORK BUT VERY USEFUL, JUST ADD.....WHEN REFITTING HYD CONNECTORS ENSURE YOU HAVE FITTED SMALL RUBBER SEALS FROM OLD JACK OR NEW ITEMS.

OK the solution was easy but expensive. The system consists of a pump and 2 hydraulic rams. Pump at front of roof and the rams on each side situated outside of the canvas. The rams can be removed without taking apart the rest of the system and can be removed independently.
The rams work on a push me pull you principal the direction is operated by the valve sensors. When the pump is not operating the system is balanced, i.e. no pressure in the system. (But I think the roof would need to be supported for this to be completely true).
Conversations with VW dealers ranged from, bring it in and we will diagnose it to there is not much diagnosis that can be done. Try replacing the ram first £225 + VAT if that doesnt work then its the pump. £900 + VAT. I have access to the official VW manual and that is of no help and is not precise with partial dismantling either.
So I bought the ram (both sides are identical and same ram used from outset) and worked out how the system was likely to work. Armed with that info here are the instructions for changing a ram.
It is a simple and clean job.
Tools needed.
Acro prop. 2 pieces clean plywood about 30cm square. Set of Torx sokets. Good pair of pliers. Usual screwwdrivers. Circlip pliers protective sheet about 1m square, Allen keys.set of good steps or work platform. 2 people are useful. Replacement cable ties.
Method.
Elevate roof about halfway. Prop using acro prop positioned between front seats using the plywood top and bottom to spread load. Protect trim further with clean cloth if necessary. Working on platform remove the 2 black plastic covers. Place some protective sheeting between the mechanical system and the canvas roof and have this ready to hang down under the ram when remove. Just in case of fluid spill. I did not experience any.Remove the 2 grub screws with an allen key from the rear hinge mechanism and also using circlip pliers the circlip from the from hinge remove the pin. This circlip does appear to be soft and bends/fatigues easily. Take care or have a new one for reassembly. It is in the inside and a pain!! Remove any further securing screws/bolts from the ram. Cut the cable ties securing wiring and hydraulic lines. Not the routing or take a photo first. DO NOT CREASE ANY OF THESE LINES. Take the new ram. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MOVE THE PISTON IN THE RAM, I KNOW IT WILL BE IN THE WRONG POSITION!! IT is pre filled with fluid do not upset the balance. Using pliers remove the shiny metal hydraulic line securing clip by pulling along direction of ram on the old ram. Also slide out the electronic sensor housing. Gently pull out line from its location. Do exactly the same for the new ram except there will be a brass pin instead of the line. Place the line into the new ram and replace clip. Now do the same for the other end of the ram. Make sure everything remains clean. Carefully locate the new ram into position. Ensuring the acro stays in place operate the pump in "open roof direction" very carefully a little at a time to push out the operating arm in the new ram. When it lines up with the locating hole in the mechanism locate. Replacement is a reversal of dismantling. Take care with the circlip. Cable tie on the lines ensuring original routing and NO CREASES.
I then operated roof in the opening direction. The pump continued a bit longer than normal whilst the system purged and balanced itself.
For me the original problem solved and not necessary to replace pump so cheaper! Hope someone finds this useful. any question please get back to me. Sorry its long winded but!! If you have to force anything you are doing it wrong!
Ali B
Hello,

I wonder if you can advise me on inspecting the hydraulic cylinders on the California roof. I have a 2012 T5 SE and there is a suspect very slow leak in one of the cylinders, which takes over a year to lower the level in the reservoir. I have removed the plastic covers, but need to get access to the cylinder rod end to see if there is any sign of weepage. What can I safely remove not to disturb the cylinder or the roof struts? In particular, can the rear bracket 7H7875175C be removed without causing further problems?

Martin
 
Re: Changing roof elevating jack

NOT MY WORK BUT VERY USEFUL, JUST ADD.....WHEN REFITTING HYD CONNECTORS ENSURE YOU HAVE FITTED SMALL RUBBER SEALS FROM OLD JACK OR NEW ITEMS.

OK the solution was easy but expensive. The system consists of a pump and 2 hydraulic rams. Pump at front of roof and the rams on each side situated outside of the canvas. The rams can be removed without taking apart the rest of the system and can be removed independently.
The rams work on a push me pull you principal the direction is operated by the valve sensors. When the pump is not operating the system is balanced, i.e. no pressure in the system. (But I think the roof would need to be supported for this to be completely true).
Conversations with VW dealers ranged from, bring it in and we will diagnose it to there is not much diagnosis that can be done. Try replacing the ram first £225 + VAT if that doesnt work then its the pump. £900 + VAT. I have access to the official VW manual and that is of no help and is not precise with partial dismantling either.
So I bought the ram (both sides are identical and same ram used from outset) and worked out how the system was likely to work. Armed with that info here are the instructions for changing a ram.
It is a simple and clean job.
Tools needed.
Acro prop. 2 pieces clean plywood about 30cm square. Set of Torx sokets. Good pair of pliers. Usual screwwdrivers. Circlip pliers protective sheet about 1m square, Allen keys.set of good steps or work platform. 2 people are useful. Replacement cable ties.
Method.
Elevate roof about halfway. Prop using acro prop positioned between front seats using the plywood top and bottom to spread load. Protect trim further with clean cloth if necessary. Working on platform remove the 2 black plastic covers. Place some protective sheeting between the mechanical system and the canvas roof and have this ready to hang down under the ram when remove. Just in case of fluid spill. I did not experience any.Remove the 2 grub screws with an allen key from the rear hinge mechanism and also using circlip pliers the circlip from the from hinge remove the pin. This circlip does appear to be soft and bends/fatigues easily. Take care or have a new one for reassembly. It is in the inside and a pain!! Remove any further securing screws/bolts from the ram. Cut the cable ties securing wiring and hydraulic lines. Not the routing or take a photo first. DO NOT CREASE ANY OF THESE LINES. Take the new ram. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MOVE THE PISTON IN THE RAM, I KNOW IT WILL BE IN THE WRONG POSITION!! IT is pre filled with fluid do not upset the balance. Using pliers remove the shiny metal hydraulic line securing clip by pulling along direction of ram on the old ram. Also slide out the electronic sensor housing. Gently pull out line from its location. Do exactly the same for the new ram except there will be a brass pin instead of the line. Place the line into the new ram and replace clip. Now do the same for the other end of the ram. Make sure everything remains clean. Carefully locate the new ram into position. Ensuring the acro stays in place operate the pump in "open roof direction" very carefully a little at a time to push out the operating arm in the new ram. When it lines up with the locating hole in the mechanism locate. Replacement is a reversal of dismantling. Take care with the circlip. Cable tie on the lines ensuring original routing and NO CREASES.
I then operated roof in the opening direction. The pump continued a bit longer than normal whilst the system purged and balanced itself.
For me the original problem solved and not necessary to replace pump so cheaper! Hope someone finds this useful. any question please get back to me. Sorry its long winded but!! If you have to force anything you are doing it wrong!
Ali B
Thank you for taking the time to share.
My 2010 failed last night so your words even five years later have worth.
Have you learned of and repairers or new tricks in this time gap??
With thanx Chris
 

Similar threads

C
Replies
2
Views
946
cali carl55
C
W
Replies
3
Views
599
Steve Phennah
S
B
Replies
23
Views
5K
soulstyledevon
soulstyledevon
C
Replies
5
Views
851
Perfectos
Perfectos
Back
Top