Is the Brandrup Iso-Top roof insulation worth having?

[Nick&Sara]

you are unlikely to have any use for this cord. You have a T6 with full front opening. Same as me. If you have the Isotop VI, i.e. with the full front opening, same as me, you'll have no use for this cord.
Mark V is for T6/T6,1 with full front opening, but the Isotop V itself doesn't have a full front opening.
The Mark VI is also for t6 with full front opening AND the Isotop itself has full front opening.

Not 100% sure what you are trying to tell us, if you read Martins reply which was from Brandrup it states that the cord is for the 6 and 6.1 with the large front opening which is what you and I both have. Martin’s reply below.

Martin said:
Ok I have just spoken to Brandrup the additional cord is for use with VW T6.1/T6 California-models with big front opening.

California's with the big front opening do not have the batten in the bow window. The cord replaces the batten for fastening the rolled down front window of the ISO-TOP.

Hope this makes sense

 

[Calimili]

Not 100% sure what you are trying to tell us, if you read Martins reply which was from Brandrup it states that the cord is for the 6 and 6.1 with the large front opening which is what you and I both have. Martin’s reply below.

Martin said:
Ok I have just spoken to Brandrup the additional cord is for use with VW T6.1/T6 California-models with big front opening.

California's with the big front opening do not have the batten in the bow window. The cord replaces the batten for fastening the rolled down front window of the ISO-TOP.

Hope this makes sense

The cord is for the Mark V. The Mark V Isotop doesn't have the full front opening. The Cali pop top does, the isotop mark V doesn't. For this you need the cord.
For a cali with full front opening pop top and isotop VI with full front opening, you don't need any cord

 

[Calimili]

All makes sense now. The cord must have been included with mark V to allow it to be used in a newer full front opening top, as a (rather flimsy) equivalent to the batten which is in the middle of the older semi-circle front opening, stretched from top to bottom and attached by the Velcro tabs. Maybe there was a time when the new Cali with the full front opening was available but Brandrup hadn’t yet come up with the mark VI isotop, and this modification of the mark V was the best available? It would be a shame to have the lovely big opening and have only a semicircle in your isotop to peer through.

I think you are right. Although i saw the Mark IV advertised or the Mark VI, and was always wandering why they skipped the V.
Now they introduced the V, which doesn't allow to enjoy the full opening of the latest T6 and T6.1.

 

[Nick&Sara]

The cord is for the Mark V. The Mark V Isotop doesn't have the full front opening. The Cali pop top does, the isotop mark V doesn't. For this you need the cord.
For a cali with full front opening pop top and isotop VI with full front opening, you don't need any cord

Okay thank you, that makes more sense now.

 

[clarinetbcn]

It's for the T6/T6.1. See post #93, message to Martin, the forum administrator, from Brandup.

 

[Trevor Brown]

Maybe I could ask advice regarding the IsoTop.
Last autumn I purchased a T6 to replace my older T5.
I had the IsoTop installed in it - fabulous job.
In looking at my new T6 I have found that the front of the bellows is quite bulky, due no doubt to the new "mouth" opening. In fact it is so bulky it is quite difficult closing the hatch when the roof is brought down.
This raises the question - when the IsoTop is installed will it make it even more bulky, and therefore more difficult to close the hatch?
Any comments appreciated, thanks.

 

[Nick&Sara]

Maybe I could ask advice regarding the IsoTop.
Last autumn I purchased a T6 to replace my older T5.
I had the IsoTop installed in it - fabulous job.
In looking at my new T6 I have found that the front of the bellows is quite bulky, due no doubt to the new "mouth" opening. In fact it is so bulky it is quite difficult closing the hatch when the roof is brought down.
This raises the question - when the IsoTop is installed will it make it even more bulky, and therefore more difficult to close the hatch?
Any comments appreciated, thanks.

Hi there Trevor. We have the same set up as you. Yes it does make it more bulky, but with a few little Must do‘s before lowering the roof it all works just fine. FYI the instructions supplied by Brandrup are awful. We have fitted a bungee and I would say it is imperative to use one so as to make sure the bellows fold in nice and neatly. it is harder to see from the inside also if the bellows have folded in nicely and we have found that the bungee helps a lot. Definitely unzip the ISOTOP at the front before lowering the roof and leave it hanging down When you are lowering the roof, this allows room for the roof bellows to fold in and the air to escape easily. I generally pop my head up and have a look outside just to make sure all is well by stopping the lowering just before the roof fully closes, it also allows the final rush of air as the last bit of the roof closing speeds up. When the roof is finally closed, manually tuck the hanging down ISOTOP front flap neatly above the sliding hatch.

We have found this the best and most repeatable way of doing things.

hope this helps ? Nick.

 

[Calimili]

I agree but I don't use a bungee. the latest T6 don't need one. of course that forces me to double check a couple of times that the bellow is indeed folding inwards.

 

[willwander]

Maybe I could ask advice regarding the IsoTop.
Last autumn I purchased a T6 to replace my older T5.
I had the IsoTop installed in it - fabulous job.
In looking at my new T6 I have found that the front of the bellows is quite bulky, due no doubt to the new "mouth" opening. In fact it is so bulky it is quite difficult closing the hatch when the roof is brought down.
This raises the question - when the IsoTop is installed will it make it even more bulky, and therefore more difficult to close the hatch?
Any comments appreciated, thanks.

I have the older Iso-Top in a new T6 with the fully opening front, the new bellows are very bulky, it is still possible to close the roof with the Iso-Top but you have to take a bit more care.
Conversely, to the previous post, I've actually ditched my bellows bungee, it's ugly, not really needed and I found it bunched up the fully opening bellows badly on lowering the roof, the new bellows have like a weighted bar in them, that drops as the roof closes, folding the bellows in a neater way, with the bungee on it didn't fold the same way making it much harder to close the roof.

 

[Trevor Brown]

Hi there Trevor. We have the same set up as you. Yes it does make it more bulky, but with a few little Must do‘s before lowering the roof it all works just fine. FYI the instructions supplied by Brandrup are awful. We have fitted a bungee and I would say it is imperative to use one so as to make sure the bellows fold in nice and neatly. it is harder to see from the inside also if the bellows have folded in nicely and we have found that the bungee helps a lot. Definitely unzip the ISOTOP at the front before lowering the roof and leave it hanging down When you are lowering the roof, this allows room for the roof bellows to fold in and the air to escape easily. I generally pop my head up and have a look outside just to make sure all is well by stopping the lowering just before the roof fully closes, it also allows the final rush of air as the last bit of the roof closing speeds up. When the roof is finally closed, manually tuck the hanging down ISOTOP front flap neatly above the sliding hatch.

We have found this the best and most repeatable way of doing things.

hope this helps ? Nick.

Thanks Nick
I will go ahead and fit my IsoTop and exercise caution, following your guidance.
Thanks for your prompt reply!

 

[Trevor Brown]

I have the older Iso-Top in a new T6 with the fully opening front, the new bellows are very bulky, it is still possible to close the roof with the Iso-Top but you have to take a bit more care.
Conversely, to the previous post, I've actually ditched my bellows bungee, it's ugly, not really needed and I found it bunched up the fully opening bellows badly on lowering the roof, the new bellows have like a weighted bar in them, that drops as the roof closes, folding the bellows in a neater way, with the bungee on it didn't fold the same way making it much harder to close the roof.

Thanks for your observation!
I had the bungee on my last T5, but I haven't used the T6 yet!

 

[Nick&Sara]

Thanks for your observation!
I had the bungee on my last T5, but I haven't used the T6 yet!

Hi Trevor no problem happy to help. I didn’t have a bungee at first for the T6 as various people said that it was not really required for the improved T6 bellows, but shortly after getting i the van, I trapped the bellows in the front part of the roof when it was mildly breezy. Since fitting the Bungee I have never had the issue, plus the folded bellows from inside is much neater and easier I think to tuck in the corners to fold back the sliding cover. You can tuck the hanging down flap of the ISOTOP under the front of the mattress which holds it in place when sliding the hatch. Those nasty buttons on the ISOTOP for attaching the elastic straps are a pain as they get trapped when you slide the hatch back, trapped Mrs Hirst‘s fingers in a few times when she was poking them fiddly things back in ###

 

[Trevor Brown]

Hi Trevor no problem happy to help. I didn’t have a bungee at first for the T6 as various people said that it was not really required for the improved T6 bellows, but shortly after getting i the van, I trapped the bellows in the front part of the roof when it was mildly breezy. Since fitting the Bungee I have never had the issue, plus the folded bellows from inside is much neater and easier I think to tuck in the corners to fold back the sliding cover. You can tuck the hanging down flap of the ISOTOP under the front of the mattress which holds it in place when sliding the hatch. Those nasty buttons on the ISOTOP for attaching the elastic straps are a pain as they get trapped when you slide the hatch back, trapped Mrs Hirst‘s fingers in a few times when she was poking them fiddly things back in ###

Thanks Nick

 

[2into1]

Hi. I hope its ok I reply to this old post. I have a California T5 2005 model , and from whet I now understand the roof are a bit different on the 2005 Cali than newer models. I then wonder. Are you happy with your own custom adjustments to make it fit. It’s maybe not long enough down on the sides, since the roof is slightly higher? Which one do you ordered or wish one do you recommend from this models: I was thinking maybe go for the part nr: 100 701 066 : https://www.brandrup.de/en/brandrup...rior/iso-top-pop-up-roof-insulation-vw-t6-t5/

Super interested to hear what you recommend and experiences over time .

Ive just fitted a mk IV to a 2006 Cali SE. I'd seen the speculation that early Cali's have different roofs but couldn't get to the bottom of it.

The packaging said it was for T6/T5 with elec/hydraulic roof and didn't list any year exceptions, so I though I'd give it a go, knowing I might hit trouble....

Well I've got a 1" gap at the top of the front panel. It's reduces to 1/2" half way down the sides, and nice and tight at the foot end.
The tabs supplied for the front panel have about 2" of velco on them, suggesting that not all installs fit right the way to the very top - ie many have some gap. (the matching velcro on the isotop itself is only 1/2" tall, so the supplied tabs are much longer than would be required for a flush install).

Anyway, I've asked on another thread if others have any gap at the front / top to see how I compare. The overall finish is lovely and neat. TBH it looks neater than many I've seen, so the Mark IV model is certainly not a disaster for early vans.

 

[andyinluton]

I understand that the early T5 SE model had a different roof to even some of the later T5 models let alone the T5.1
The hinges were different & the roof actually went up a bit higher.
I cant be sure but I think the folding batons in the roof sides changed along with the alignment of the side windows.

 

[andyinluton]

Early roofs had the bottom of the side windows parallel with the top of the roof, later ones have the bottom of the window horizontal. Early roof below.

 

[Rado]

The Isotop arrived, but as it has to be at least 18 degrees before you can attach the fixing strip we didn't get round to installing it till a week ago. As everyone says, pushing the black velcro tabs into the gap in the roof lining at the front is a real pain, though we eventually managed it using a wooden spatula as others advised. But the main thing to report back is that Cali Kev was right and Mrs Brandrup was wrong...the very early SE models (ours is 2005) must have a slightly different roof bellows construction as some fixing tabs were in the wrong place. Rather than send it back I managed to unpick and re-sew some tabs and added additional velcro, and it now fits pretty snugly - but it was a lot of work. Not tried it out yet, but I'm hoping the extra insulation and light proofing will make it all worthwhile!

It seems like few year has left from your last post, but was wonder if you could give some review of it. We also have 2005 model and heading toward purchase Iso-Top.
Please give us few workds if its worth it or maybe if you wants to sell it ?

 

[Aidy P]

My wife slept up to with the Isotop for the first time this weekend. Said it was much warmer and much darker in the morning = better nights sleep.

 

[Erbster]

I fitted one from new on our Ocean. We mostly camp in UK. Warmer, less draughty, darker in the am. No water wicks in, even in heavy rain. Roof can be dropped when still damp (eg if raining) with getting bed wet. Fix and forget. Nothing to install/remove/store when camping. I also wild camp and value the ability to drop roof and drive off without getting out of van. More expensive than a topper though...

CaliVentures

Adventures in a VW California camper van

caliventures364847572.wordpress.com

 

[be1t0n]

Ok I have just spoken to Brandrup the additional cord is for use with VW T6.1/T6 California-models with big front opening.

California's with the big front opening do not have the batten in the bow window. The cord replaces the batten for fastening the rolled down front window of the ISO-TOP.

Hope this makes sense

Strangely I didn't have this in mine.