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Lifting the back of T6.1, T32.... still not clear on solutions after searching the forum. Who did it and how?

Flower Power

Flower Power

Messages
63
Location
germany
Vehicle
T6.1 Coast 150
The title says it all.... I would like to hear from members who actually have lifted the back only of Ocean/Coast by 3-5 cm, and what parts they have used. Just springs, spacers....??? Happy with the results? Part numbers if possible will help a lot. Thanks in advance.
 
The title says it all.... I would like to hear from members who actually have lifted the back only of Ocean/Coast by 3-5 cm, and what parts they have used. Just springs, spacers....??? Happy with the results? Part numbers if possible will help a lot. Thanks in advance.
Why?
 
"Why?" You are short on words despite your 25307 messages.... however I am guessing your "why" refers to the idea of lifting itself. So the answer is... BECAUSE..... I do not want to be hitting with my spare wheel all the "plateau" in Belgium or France, or hitting back splash guards against the tires while reversing over the curb by my house. Have I answered your question? Do you have an answer to my initial question? Make it a 25308th. I am sure you have a lot of experience with California. Thanks.
 
"Why?" You are short on words despite your 25307 messages.... however I am guessing your "why" refers to the idea of lifting itself. So the answer is... BECAUSE..... I do not want to be hitting with my spare wheel all the "plateau" in Belgium or France, or hitting back splash guards against the tires while reversing over the curb by my house. Have I answered your question? Do you have an answer to my initial question? Make it a 25308th. I am sure you have a lot of experience with California. Thanks.
If that is the reason then you should be lifting All 4 corners otherwise you will have a nose down stance on the vehicle.
If you, mistakenly believe that the rear end is lower than the front then because of the tyre wheelarch distance being less then i suggest you measure the wheelarch to body line and you would see that the front wheelarch is higher than the rear. The ground to bodyline distance should also be equal front and rear on level ground and unloaded.

And asking " Why " is a perfectly reasonable request as to your reasons for playing with the suspension.
 
Playing with the ground clearing is always tricky indeed.
Like you said already it is an optical thing.
If you would a permanent fixture that would mean you had to change the suspension to either an air ride or coilover replacement.
Best in that case is to get in touch with your local aftermarket shop:). Vw is to expensive for this.
 
Thanks. No, I have not measured anything thus no false or correct impressions. I also do not believe that my van is overloaded.... 2 people traveling, no trailer hitch or bikes. Still, It is also impossible to drop the spare wheel without lifting the van with a jack. So... a few cm more clearance, especially in the back would be nice.

I take your expert word that lifting just the rear is not advisable. Maybe easy and cost effective but not a good idea as you write. I accept that. Too bad that you have not offered that answer to start with. No, I also do not want to lift all corners altering the entire suspension. That would be "playing with the suspension" beyond a reason. (BTW, in my previous T4 camper things were much easier to adjust.)

So, another thought is to change tires from 235/55/17 to 235/65/17 gaining almost 3 cm clearance in the process. Here in Germany, that would require buying special expensive wheels (homologated for that size tire) and still having our TÜV issue their judgement and adjusting odometer specs. For a fee. Complicated.... but as you call it in the UK, swampers do it all the time. Not my gig.

What do you think about all that and WHY? :) Am I stuck with the van the way it is? Anyone have found a solution? Thanks.
 
Thanks. No, I have not measured anything thus no false or correct impressions. I also do not believe that my van is overloaded.... 2 people traveling, no trailer hitch or bikes. Still, It is also impossible to drop the spare wheel without lifting the van with a jack. So... a few cm more clearance, especially in the back would be nice.

I take your expert word that lifting just the rear is not advisable. Maybe easy and cost effective but not a good idea as you write. I accept that. Too bad that you have not offered that answer to start with. No, I also do not want to lift all corners altering the entire suspension. That would be "playing with the suspension" beyond a reason. (BTW, in my previous T4 camper things were much easier to adjust.)

So, another thought is to change tires from 235/55/17 to 235/65/17 gaining almost 3 cm clearance in the process. Here in Germany, that would require buying special expensive wheels (homologated for that size tire) and still having our TÜV issue their judgement and adjusting odometer specs. For a fee. Complicated.... but as you call it in the UK, swampers do it all the time. Not my gig.

What do you think about all that and WHY? :) Am I stuck with the van the way it is? Anyone have found a solution? Thanks.
I didn’t state the problems of just raising the rear because some owners don’t like the difference in tyre - wheelarch distance for esthetic reasons and I don’t intend to get into an argument if that is the case.

I too have the problem of getting the spare out on my 4Motion with Towbar.
Hopefully, if I have to change a flat tyre it will be a rear one so lifting the rear allows me to get the spare out and change over the wheel. If it’s the front, well I’ll just have to Jack the vehicle up twice.
I don’t think a 30mm lift due to bigger wheels/tyres would be enough.

However in 10 yrs and almost 140,000 miles I have never had to change a flat tyre on this vehicle.
 
To access the spare easily, reverse up onto your levelling blocks. To reverse up onto your kerb just cut a couple of lengths of wood half kerb height square and chuck those down when needed or use the levelling blocks as a ramp.
If you’re hitting “all the plateau” then something isn’t right with the standard setup.
 
To access the spare easily, reverse up onto your levelling blocks. To reverse up onto your kerb just cut a couple of lengths of wood half kerb height square and chuck those down when needed or use the levelling blocks as a ramp.
If you’re hitting “all the plateau” then something isn’t right with the standard setup.
Even easier with air suspension. Press the button and away you go. Simples.:)
 
If you are really concerned about it and apprehensive about lifting all 4 corners , then you could also look at a Tyre rack on the back . Don’t forget to replace the struts though if you do.
 
And for offroad? If one wants to raise everything, what kit do you think is best? as to the WHY - because I'm touching ground, esp back, too much when fording rivers or valleys or other rocky offroads. I am on 2m not 4m
 
"Why?" You are short on words despite your 25307 messages.... however I am guessing your "why" refers to the idea of lifting itself. So the answer is... BECAUSE..... I do not want to be hitting with my spare wheel all the "plateau" in Belgium or France, or hitting back splash guards against the tires while reversing over the curb by my house. Have I answered your question? Do you have an answer to my initial question? Make it a 25308th. I am sure you have a lot of experience with California. Thanks.
The reason you do not find threads about it is maybe because no one has the problem you think to have. The only valid reason you mention is you have to lift the back a little to remove the spare wheel. Something you may need once every ?? Years. Most cars are lower than a cali…then all cars should have the problem you think you have. On the contrary you will find many threads from people even lowering the cali.
 
OP, do you have standard or sport suspension? My T6.1 4Motion had sport suspension on it when I bought it approved used. Drove well but crashy ride and back was sagging (even unloaded). I had a VB Air kit fitted and it’s another world now. Van is always level and ride is much more appropriate for the type of vehicle. Adjustable ride height for car-parks and off-road and auto-levelling adds so much more to the usability. Other than cost there is no reason not to
 
And for offroad? If one wants to raise everything, what kit do you think is best? as to the WHY - because I'm touching ground, esp back, too much when fording rivers or valleys or other rocky offroads. I am on 2m not 4m
Hi I changed my suspension for the reasons of catching the mud flaps and tow bar on uneven roads tracks,the backend sat to low when fully loaded but as Welsh gas says it is level from factory but in my opinion it sags excessively when loaded with people and equipment also when a trailer is attached ie a boat it’s on its arse.
I fitted the full lift kit from eibach this includes the shocks and springs +adjusters but you can fit the springs only with rear adjusters if you don’t need the travel on the shocks.


The quality of these kits is excellent best mod I have done and it works for me hope this helps.
 
Just a thought - If it’s only easy access to the spare wheel you want, then you could carry a set of levelling ramps. Cheaper than changing the suspension and potentially compromising the handling of the vehicle. Your insurers might not approve either.
 
I didn't test drive the 6.1 Coast I own, assumed it would ride like my T6s. Nope, felt seasick, bloody awful.

Able assistant was not happy when I told him I was getting the suspension tweaked but even he agrees it's much better now. We live in north Wales, so bends and smaller roads with terrible surfaces are the norm and I am so glad we did get it done.

Uprated ARB, Koni Active, etc. Not lowered.

It's a T30 base for the Calis, I thought? I owned a T32, different suspension set up.
 

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