C
CaliMac
So, having been to most parts of Scotland in my Cali I thought it could be a good idea to share some experiences sprinkled with some opinion. Hopefully anyone thinking of visiting Scotland may glean something from my travels.
What makes Scotland special you may ask? This masterpiece was carved from its volcanic past that produced many of the islands on the west coast, then followed by ice ages and the impact of weather over millennia. Although biased, I cannot think of another country as beautiful in terms of variation of scenery, compactness and accessibility. In this summary, I omit many of the places I have yet to visit such as as Orkney, Shetland and no doubt many more.
You will see more MOHOs than Calis on the main roads but the Cali allows you to access everywhere with ease: There is no better vehicle to experience Scotland imho.
Weather
Although unpredictable, the east coast is drier/sunnier with the added benefit of guaranteed no midges. It is quite rare for the weather to be poor everywhere so if you have flexibility, try to choose east or west according to the forecast. Having cycled to work for many years there are always 2 or 3 weeks in spring and autumn that bring easterly winds, this tends to bring better weather on the west; in times past it brought marauding Vikings! If it is cold then I would avoid cotton clothing such as jeans; there is no reason you should not feel comfortable in Scotland with the appropriate clothing. The wind can be unexpected and localised which can damage your awning if caught unaware. Wind can also affect ferry timetables although less so in summer.
NC500
This route I suspect was aimed at people flying into Inverness and therefore starts and finishes there. If I was coming from the south by road I would probably choose a more scenic route to join it, i.e A82 rather than A9, by all means go to Inverness but just the once. There are plenty articles on this wonderful route without my comment but I would like to say Gairloch, Applecross, Torridon and Ullapool to Sango Sands are my highlights and all have great campsites.
Outer Hebrides
If you love beaches and wild life you will not be disappointed. The ferries across in the summer almost guarantee dolphin sightings on calmer days and include the odd whale. On land eagles are very easy to spot due to the treeless landscape giving unabated views. If you spend a few days there you would be unlucky not to see several white tailed or golden eagle ime. Top tip: the Cali is the same ferry price as a car unlike MOHOs that are very expensive. To access the Outer Hebrides as cheap as possible I would hitch the ferry from Skye to Lochmaddy, travel south to Barra, once you have stayed there head northback through the Uists to Lewis and Harris (which is one Island and the largest in UK waters). Finally, take the ferry from Harris back to Skye for just £90 (Cali + 2) return. Ok, you may travel up and down some roads, but in Scotland you always get a different perspective in the opposite direction. Campsites are available and there are also many honesty box type locations to stay in among some stunning scenery. Highlights imo are the huge beaches at Uig in Lewis and Luskentyre in Harris. Stornoway on Lewis is the main town and has plenty bars and restaurants if required. Barra is lovely and although it has a small population, it can be a lively hub too.
Inner Hebrides
Like the Outer Hebrides each Island has a unique character and charm. Skye tends to be very busy due to easy access over the bridge; however, you can also access it via the stunning road to the Glen Elg ferry (c.£15 Cali + 2) or the Calmac ferry from Mallaig to Armadale (£19). Taking the Mallaig route will include passing the Glenfinnan viaduct for Harry Potter fans and just prior to Mallaig are the stunning white sands of Morar and Arisaig; plenty campsites to choose from here too.
Mull is described as ‘Britain in miniature’ with the only island mountain high enough to be classed as a Munro in the UK. This island is another geological wonder and I would recommend the Staffa trip from Ulva Ferry which also has a great little campsite. The roads are single track in places and challenging if busy such as the road to Iona; try and avoid travel to Iona that coincides with ferry traffic disembarking from Craignure. Again, consider how you access the Island so you can experience as much as possible, there are 3 ferries so there is no need to sail to and from Oban as many do. Try Tobermory to Kilchoan if you are heading North afterwards perhaps. Taking the Fishnish to Lochaline route will take you NE towards Fort William and of course Ben Nevis then towards Loch Ness.
Argyle and Bute (and Arran)
Stunning scenery only an hour from Glasgow city centre. Tignabruaich is particularly gorgeous and the nearby campsite at Portavadie has 5 star facilities attached to the marina, it even has an infinity pool for example. To explore this area you may want to include Arran as you can also complete the ‘5 Ferries’ loop; cost is about £140 for Cali and 2 passengers. If you have time, Millport on the Isle of Cumbrae is just a short ferry away from Largs where you will find great cycling routes and a busy little harbour town; avoid weekends if you prefer less busy. Arran is deemed to be ‘Scotland in miniature’ with some stunning mountains and lowlands but less so on sandy beaches. There is a great campsite at Brodick called Auchrannie provides access to top hotel facilities on site. There are no shortage of cafes and shops in Arran too being the most visited island in Scotland.
East Coast
My ideal east coast route would include North Berwick along the ‘Golf Coast’ towards Edinburgh staying at the CAMC site at Silverknowe; uber about £10 into town. About an hour North via Fife is St Andrews which has plenty for even non-golfers to see and do; there are two good campsites on the outskirts of town. An hour North will take you through the rolling landscapes of the east coast through Arbroath to Stonehaven. Stonehaven has one of the rare CAMC sites actually in the town with a short walk to access pubs and shops. An award winning fish and chip shop is very close too.
Dumfries and Galloway
Famous for farming and the associated dairy products that the rolling lush landscapes produce. My top choice here is Portpatrick, this is an idylic quaint old fishing village, nice pubs and walks along the coast to nearby campsites. Logan Botanic Gardens is also nearby and utilises the warm air from the North Atlantic drift to easily make you think you are in the tropics. I have only been to Dumfries and Galloway twice so have barely scratched the surface in this area.
The Spine of Scotland
The A9 provides access to this area and should not be overlooked because it does not feature sea views. Coming from the south I would recommend turning off at the A84 junction on the M9 at Stirling. This will take you through Callander towards the Trossachs then head North towards Aberfeldy via Killin and Kenmore. This may take 20 mins longer before you hit the A9 again but you will see a lot more than just hammering up the A9. Stops at Pitlochry and Blair Atholl campsites are recommended before heading for Aviemore and Cairngorm National Park. Aviemore is a lively hub for accessing the surrounding mountains and campsites tend to be open all year round.
Hopefully there is the odd snippet here that some will find useful. However, please have fun designing your own trips that intertwine with the magical Scottish Islands and beyond.
Here is a map of Scotland’s ferries and please be aware it is always worth booking in advance.
What makes Scotland special you may ask? This masterpiece was carved from its volcanic past that produced many of the islands on the west coast, then followed by ice ages and the impact of weather over millennia. Although biased, I cannot think of another country as beautiful in terms of variation of scenery, compactness and accessibility. In this summary, I omit many of the places I have yet to visit such as as Orkney, Shetland and no doubt many more.
You will see more MOHOs than Calis on the main roads but the Cali allows you to access everywhere with ease: There is no better vehicle to experience Scotland imho.
Weather
Although unpredictable, the east coast is drier/sunnier with the added benefit of guaranteed no midges. It is quite rare for the weather to be poor everywhere so if you have flexibility, try to choose east or west according to the forecast. Having cycled to work for many years there are always 2 or 3 weeks in spring and autumn that bring easterly winds, this tends to bring better weather on the west; in times past it brought marauding Vikings! If it is cold then I would avoid cotton clothing such as jeans; there is no reason you should not feel comfortable in Scotland with the appropriate clothing. The wind can be unexpected and localised which can damage your awning if caught unaware. Wind can also affect ferry timetables although less so in summer.
NC500
This route I suspect was aimed at people flying into Inverness and therefore starts and finishes there. If I was coming from the south by road I would probably choose a more scenic route to join it, i.e A82 rather than A9, by all means go to Inverness but just the once. There are plenty articles on this wonderful route without my comment but I would like to say Gairloch, Applecross, Torridon and Ullapool to Sango Sands are my highlights and all have great campsites.
Outer Hebrides
If you love beaches and wild life you will not be disappointed. The ferries across in the summer almost guarantee dolphin sightings on calmer days and include the odd whale. On land eagles are very easy to spot due to the treeless landscape giving unabated views. If you spend a few days there you would be unlucky not to see several white tailed or golden eagle ime. Top tip: the Cali is the same ferry price as a car unlike MOHOs that are very expensive. To access the Outer Hebrides as cheap as possible I would hitch the ferry from Skye to Lochmaddy, travel south to Barra, once you have stayed there head northback through the Uists to Lewis and Harris (which is one Island and the largest in UK waters). Finally, take the ferry from Harris back to Skye for just £90 (Cali + 2) return. Ok, you may travel up and down some roads, but in Scotland you always get a different perspective in the opposite direction. Campsites are available and there are also many honesty box type locations to stay in among some stunning scenery. Highlights imo are the huge beaches at Uig in Lewis and Luskentyre in Harris. Stornoway on Lewis is the main town and has plenty bars and restaurants if required. Barra is lovely and although it has a small population, it can be a lively hub too.
Inner Hebrides
Like the Outer Hebrides each Island has a unique character and charm. Skye tends to be very busy due to easy access over the bridge; however, you can also access it via the stunning road to the Glen Elg ferry (c.£15 Cali + 2) or the Calmac ferry from Mallaig to Armadale (£19). Taking the Mallaig route will include passing the Glenfinnan viaduct for Harry Potter fans and just prior to Mallaig are the stunning white sands of Morar and Arisaig; plenty campsites to choose from here too.
Mull is described as ‘Britain in miniature’ with the only island mountain high enough to be classed as a Munro in the UK. This island is another geological wonder and I would recommend the Staffa trip from Ulva Ferry which also has a great little campsite. The roads are single track in places and challenging if busy such as the road to Iona; try and avoid travel to Iona that coincides with ferry traffic disembarking from Craignure. Again, consider how you access the Island so you can experience as much as possible, there are 3 ferries so there is no need to sail to and from Oban as many do. Try Tobermory to Kilchoan if you are heading North afterwards perhaps. Taking the Fishnish to Lochaline route will take you NE towards Fort William and of course Ben Nevis then towards Loch Ness.
Argyle and Bute (and Arran)
Stunning scenery only an hour from Glasgow city centre. Tignabruaich is particularly gorgeous and the nearby campsite at Portavadie has 5 star facilities attached to the marina, it even has an infinity pool for example. To explore this area you may want to include Arran as you can also complete the ‘5 Ferries’ loop; cost is about £140 for Cali and 2 passengers. If you have time, Millport on the Isle of Cumbrae is just a short ferry away from Largs where you will find great cycling routes and a busy little harbour town; avoid weekends if you prefer less busy. Arran is deemed to be ‘Scotland in miniature’ with some stunning mountains and lowlands but less so on sandy beaches. There is a great campsite at Brodick called Auchrannie provides access to top hotel facilities on site. There are no shortage of cafes and shops in Arran too being the most visited island in Scotland.
East Coast
My ideal east coast route would include North Berwick along the ‘Golf Coast’ towards Edinburgh staying at the CAMC site at Silverknowe; uber about £10 into town. About an hour North via Fife is St Andrews which has plenty for even non-golfers to see and do; there are two good campsites on the outskirts of town. An hour North will take you through the rolling landscapes of the east coast through Arbroath to Stonehaven. Stonehaven has one of the rare CAMC sites actually in the town with a short walk to access pubs and shops. An award winning fish and chip shop is very close too.
Dumfries and Galloway
Famous for farming and the associated dairy products that the rolling lush landscapes produce. My top choice here is Portpatrick, this is an idylic quaint old fishing village, nice pubs and walks along the coast to nearby campsites. Logan Botanic Gardens is also nearby and utilises the warm air from the North Atlantic drift to easily make you think you are in the tropics. I have only been to Dumfries and Galloway twice so have barely scratched the surface in this area.
The Spine of Scotland
The A9 provides access to this area and should not be overlooked because it does not feature sea views. Coming from the south I would recommend turning off at the A84 junction on the M9 at Stirling. This will take you through Callander towards the Trossachs then head North towards Aberfeldy via Killin and Kenmore. This may take 20 mins longer before you hit the A9 again but you will see a lot more than just hammering up the A9. Stops at Pitlochry and Blair Atholl campsites are recommended before heading for Aviemore and Cairngorm National Park. Aviemore is a lively hub for accessing the surrounding mountains and campsites tend to be open all year round.
Hopefully there is the odd snippet here that some will find useful. However, please have fun designing your own trips that intertwine with the magical Scottish Islands and beyond.
Here is a map of Scotland’s ferries and please be aware it is always worth booking in advance.
