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New EGR valve - 204 engine

downthepub

downthepub

VIP Member
Messages
18
Location
Aberdeen, UK
Vehicle
T6 Ocean 204
Thought I'd mention, more for reference than anything else, my EGR valve has failed - found during a service. The VW dealer are £1200 for fitting (inc vat). Could be better, could be worse. Guess it's better done now that when we are away in the boonies next week.

Van is a June '17 reg with 47.5K on the clock. It's also needing new rear discs and pads (I knew that), and various bushes (unsurprising considering the mileage). So staring down the barrels of a £2K bill.
 
How much!! I’d go for an independent and certainly not VWVC for pads and discs.
 
Thought I'd mention, more for reference than anything else, my EGR valve has failed - found during a service. The VW dealer are £1200 for fitting (inc vat). Could be better, could be worse. Guess it's better done now that when we are away in the boonies next week.

Van is a June '17 reg with 47.5K on the clock. It's also needing new rear discs and pads (I knew that), and various bushes (unsurprising considering the mileage). So staring down the barrels of a £2K bill.
Both seem very expensive for a job that would take less than a morning to complete. You can buy very good quality rear discs and pads for less than £200 so £600 for Labour is way over the top. Personally I would shop around. Fitting these is hardly rocket science.
 
The overall bill (including a service and A/C recharge) was actually a bit less that what I quoted. Not very good at writing down numbers or maths so it would seem. The brakes were about £50 more expensive than an independent around the corner - fitting is indeed not rocket science done plenty in my time but usually on older vehicles that I’ve maintained myself. The van is a bit too new and £££ for that malarkey - unlike the 20yo Jags and Jeeps I’ve maintained myself in the past.
 
The overall bill (including a service and A/C recharge) was actually a bit less that what I quoted. Not very good at writing down numbers or maths so it would seem. The brakes were about £50 more expensive than an independent around the corner - fitting is indeed not rocket science done plenty in my time but usually on older vehicles that I’ve maintained myself. The van is a bit too new and £££ for that malarkey - unlike the 20yo Jags and Jeeps I’ve maintained myself in the past.
I find it strange how an old car can be serviced and repaired on a DIY basis but a new one has some sort of force field protecting it from DIY work. Backed up by the 'warranty' threat.

I have this problem but am now managing to overcome it after 5 years of ownership, might need therapy though.
 
I find it strange how an old car can be serviced and repaired on a DIY basis but a new one has some sort of force field protecting it from DIY work. Backed up by the 'warranty' threat.

I have this problem but am now managing to overcome it after 5 years of ownership, might need therapy though.
The latest vehicles are so full of complicated electronics and sensors they are not simple to fix like in the old days. In the 60s and 70s if you had a set of spanner’s and a screwdriver you could fix the biggest problems. Sadly those days are gone as far as the engine is concerned but brakes are pretty much the same as 50 years ago. As long as you follow all the correct procedures this is still a job for a DIY mechanic. Modern vehicles I imagine will be in the scrap yard well before your beloved 1950s moggy 1000. As long as we can still buy petrol and it doesn’t cost £10 litre..
 
The latest vehicles are so full of complicated electronics and sensors they are not simple to fix like in the old days. In the 60s and 70s if you had a set of spanner’s and a screwdriver you could fix the biggest problems. Sadly those days are gone as far as the engine is concerned but brakes are pretty much the same as 50 years ago. As long as you follow all the correct procedures this is still a job for a DIY mechanic. Modern vehicles I imagine will be in the scrap yard well before your beloved 1950s moggy 1000. As long as we can still buy petrol and it doesn’t cost £10 litre..
All of the sensors etc are just parts and with the help of diagnostics and You Tube it is surprising how much can be done on a DIY basis. Access seems to be the biggest problem.

I often wonder how many 'miles' of rubber pipe are on my 204 engine.

I recently did a DIY engine oil & filter change and left it draining over lunch. Still dripping after about an hour and lots of sludge in the drain pan. Presume that garages just whip drain plug out and then back in as soon as main flow stops not letting sludge drain fully. They wouldn't have run the engine oil up to normal temperature prior to draining either.

I agree about vehicles being scrapped prematurely as diagnostics can be more than parts on a repair.
 
I agree about vehicles being scrapped prematurely as diagnostics can be more than parts on a repair.
Different vehicles, but the same problem; in America a class action group of farmers are trying to get a law passed giving "Right to repair" of their (mainly) John Deere machinery. Currently, the company will not give access to their software for repair. There have been instances of farmers being asked to deliver their broken down combine harvester to a Deere dealer for repair diagnostics when it is immobile in a field of corn being harvested.
Meanwhile, machinery made 70 years ago is still going strong.
 
Different vehicles, but the same problem; in America a class action group of farmers are trying to get a law passed giving "Right to repair" of their (mainly) John Deere machinery. Currently, the company will not give access to their software for repair. There have been instances of farmers being asked to deliver their broken down combine harvester to a Deere dealer for repair diagnostics when it is immobile in a field of corn being harvested.
Meanwhile, machinery made 70 years ago is still going strong.
Similar to the appeals by Car Manufacturers to only permit parts supplied by them being the only parts that can be used for repairs. Ignores the fact that they buy in most parts for production process.

Incidentally I run/maintain a 1965 car. Not much original now.
 
All of the sensors etc are just parts and with the help of diagnostics and You Tube it is surprising how much can be done on a DIY basis. Access seems to be the biggest problem.

I often wonder how many 'miles' of rubber pipe are on my 204 engine.

I recently did a DIY engine oil & filter change and left it draining over lunch. Still dripping after about an hour and lots of sludge in the drain pan. Presume that garages just whip drain plug out and then back in as soon as main flow stops not letting sludge drain fully. They wouldn't have run the engine oil up to normal temperature prior to draining either.

I agree about vehicles being scrapped prematurely as diagnostics can be more than parts on a repair.
A lot of garages use oil extraction instead of oil drain. That’s probably ok in some circumstances but unless the extracted oil is accurately measured you never know if some has been left sitting in the sump.
 
Replaced the ERG valve after 7 years on our 180. £1700. Apparently on the larger engines the whole front of the vehicle comes off.
 
Similar to the appeals by Car Manufacturers to only permit parts supplied by them being the only parts that can be used for repairs. Ignores the fact that they buy in most parts for production process.

Incidentally I run/maintain a 1965 car. Not much original now.
When you get something like brakes on a vehicle they would be selling you an inferior product As VW get the best quote from contractors to manufacture the product in somewhere like China or India. Although these parts are perfectly ok the customer could buy far superior products ie Brembo manufactured in Europe at a cheaper price. It’s the same with everything but then VW are not looking to give their customers the best deal they are making sure they make the biggest markup possible.
 
5 years ago I had the "EGR Cooler" (is that the same?) replaced on my 2008 Cali. The total cost was £669.84.
 
5 years ago I had the "EGR Cooler" (is that the same?) replaced on my 2008 Cali. The total cost was £669.84.
All depends which engine, as the cost varies.
 
5 years ago I had the "EGR Cooler" (is that the same?) replaced on my 2008 Cali. The total cost was £669.84.
Seems that the EGR can be bought in sections, cooler, valve or complete unit.
Coolers tend to clog up with carbon over time as does the valve both of which could be cleaned - with some effort but not if you are paying VW labour rates.

If it says Cooler then assume only that replaced on yours.
 
Thought I'd mention, more for reference than anything else, my EGR valve has failed - found during a service. The VW dealer are £1200 for fitting (inc vat). Could be better, could be worse. Guess it's better done now that when we are away in the boonies next week.

Van is a June '17 reg with 47.5K on the clock. It's also needing new rear discs and pads (I knew that), and various bushes (unsurprising considering the mileage). So staring down the barrels of a £2K bill.
I've had an engine warning light on for a year. Told by VW dealership that it was an EGR problem. It's a low mileage 2014 T5 Cali 2.0L 180PS DSG 4motion. No noticeable effect on performance or fuel economy. Over £2.5k for replacement quoted. Same work for about half the cost by a recommended independant who have offered, as a cheaper alternative the option of a software 're-map' costing about £300 that will effectively isolate the ERG valve (that I suspect is stuck closed due to carbon clogging). They say that this won't affect the performance of the engine adversely or its ability to pass MoT emissions. Not environmentally ideal but low milage anyway. Views anyone?
 
I've had an engine warning light on for a year. Told by VW dealership that it was an EGR problem. It's a low mileage 2014 T5 Cali 2.0L 180PS DSG 4motion. No noticeable effect on performance or fuel economy. Over £2.5k for replacement quoted. Same work for about half the cost by a recommended independant who have offered, as a cheaper alternative the option of a software 're-map' costing about £300 that will effectively isolate the ERG valve (that I suspect is stuck closed due to carbon clogging). They say that this won't affect the performance of the engine adversely or its ability to pass MoT emissions. Not environmentally ideal but low milage anyway. Views anyone?
Look on the T6 forum , much more positive info there . (Also more negative)
2014 Imo block off with Tafmet. Save yourself a fortune now & ongoing and prevent future issue (it’s technically illegalish but undetectable) !
illegalish = no consequences!
Performance will probably improve !
 
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