Removing an Eberspacher - Existing fuel pipe?

[bluerallye]

Hi All,

I've sent a few queries out but just casting the net a bit wider.

My petrol Eberspacher has given up (usually refused to light unless leisure battery voltage 13.2+V, now won't light at all (batts are relatively new, 2 x 110Ah)) and as parts and replacement units are as rare as hens teeth *and* as i carry an underslung LPG tank, then i plan to replace with a Propex HS2211 gas heater.

Question is....what do i do with the existing fuel pipe feed from the tank to the Eberspacher pump? I assume it's gravity fed to the pump so not under a great deal of pressure. Current thinking is to simply terminate / cap-off and store out of the way.

Interested to hear any other ideas on this.

TIA

Alex

 

[rod_vw]

Alex, have you checked the voltage at the Eberspacher? I would be checking between the +ve as near to the heater ECU and the -ve at the same location.
I am suspicious the your problems lie in poor connections not in the heater it self, my son's heater on a Type 25 had similar problems when he bought it but by cleaning and repairing all connections it is faultless now.
Don't forget the -ve (chassis earth) connections.

If you do need to isolate the petrol feed to the heater I think you will find that if you remove the left front seat and lift the floor covering you will find a large inspection cover. Under that cover you should find the 'T' connection in the fuel pipe to the engine where the heater fuel is taken off. Either cut the heater hose short and blank it off with a metal or plastic plug or replace the 'T' with a straight piece of pipe.

Rod

 

[bluerallye]

Cheers Rod. I'm taking a look tonight. It was working relatively fine the last trip in Feb, put it on the other morning and fired up ok, came out 20m later and it had cut out but seemingly before the thermostat had cut-in as cab was cool and there was a distinct fuel smell. It's not fired up since....just the initial run-up and click-click from the metering pump.

Will start there and see where i get to

 

[rod_vw]

If you have a smell of petrol I would suggest a careful inspection of the fuel pipes from the 'T' to the metering pump then to the heater. Exploded diagrams and part numbers can be found at http://www.oemepc.com/ go to Transporter not Campmobile. The heater is amongst 'fuel, exhaust & cooling'.

Rod

 

[bluerallye]

1. It looks like a webasto
2. I have 2 very corroded ground connections either side of the spark plug main electrode

May clean those up and put it back together and try firing it up

Cheers

2 spade connectors from dosing pump but can’t see which way they came off. Both green...just need to sort that and I may be ok

 

[sidepod]

I had a spare petrol Eber dat under the bench for several years. Skipped a couple of months ago.

More info needed.

Does your unit fire, get hot then cut out or not fire or not get hot?

There is a small pcb inside the heater that is prone to dry joints. Easily refurbed.

The control panel also suffers dry joints.

The control unit is mounted down behind the B pillar trim panel below the kitchen window. Water can get in and run down the wiring harness and corrode the terminals on the box.

Check all of the easy simple stuff first.
New spark/glow plug?

 

[rod_vw]

1. It looks like a webasto
2. I have 2 very corroded ground connections either side of the spark plug main electrode

May clean those up and put it back together and try firing it up

Cheers

2 spade connectors from dosing pump but can’t see which way they came off. Both green...just need to sort that and I may be ok

It doesn't matter which way you connect the dosing pump.

If it's the OEM fitting then it is an Ebersapacher B2L (B = Benzine) big square box with large heating pipes both on one end unlike the more conventional later ones with inlet one end and outlet the other. Combustion air inlet and exhaust on the side.

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_singl...261/subcategory/261025/part_id/3723171/lang/e

As I said before, check the voltage at the heater when it is trying to start up i.e. drawing the most current.

Rod

 

[bluerallye]

You were correct, it is an Eber B2L. In short, the corroded terminals x 2 were brightened up with emery paper and the unit was refitted. It fired up straight away and did 3 on/off cycles on mid/low thermostat setting then failed to start again on the fourth. As it was late i let the unit cool overnight and tried again in the morning and just never fired up again. Leisure Batteries on 13.5v, tried on and off hook-up to give a bit of a boost but to no avail.

When it was off the vehicle the unit was inspected and the solder joints appeared bright, all sensors and connections appeared good and overall the unit appears in very good condition. As parts for the B2L are in short supply then it may be a project to get it up and running off the vehicle slow time over the summer.

With a week away planned for Easter in the Yorkshire dales, and the threat of snow and freezing temps looming then i took the (relatively) easy way out and fitted a Propex HS2211 in its place over the weekend. Fortunately i was able to seal and stow the original loom (though removed the 7.5A fuse) , fabricate a chassis and use the original mounting points and heated air inlets so it's quite a tidy install...plus we now have a reliable heat source and a happy wife.

Thanks again for all the advice, appreciated.

 

[rod_vw]

I appreciate your need to fit an alternative and keep some warmth available for the van and keep the family happy!

Managing to get the B2L back into service may enhance the value of the vehicle when it comes time to change it so perhaps some time spent on it would be worthwhile.

Rod