Buy all your VW California Accessories at the Club Shop Visit Shop

t4 california cooker thermocouple

R

Redlyne_mr2

Messages
14
Vehicle
T4 PopTop
One of my stove burners isn't working and it appears to be the thermocouple. I ordered one online but it looks much different than the one I have in my van. The one in my van threads in, the one I ordered has 2 electrical connections which makes no sense. Does anyone have experience replacing these in the t4 californias?
 
Dan does that from memory you know !
 
I had a witty response to that, but I've forgotten what it was.
 
One of my stove burners isn't working and it appears to be the thermocouple. I ordered one online but it looks much different than the one I have in my van. The one in my van threads in, the one I ordered has 2 electrical connections which makes no sense. Does anyone have experience replacing these in the t4 californias?

Hey @Redlyne_mr2. Before you plunge in and order what appear to be ever more expensive parts have you inspected the gaskets that are sandwiched between the burner head and the main surface of the cooker? For reference they're part number 18A on the link from @WelshGas. When we bought our camper one of the rings was underperforming (but mostly inactive) and it turned out the gaskets had cracked which let air draw in so the gas mixture wasn't strong enough to light. They're pretty cheap to buy and with a bit of gentle brute force, simple enough to fit.
 
Hey @Redlyne_mr2. Before you plunge in and order what appear to be ever more expensive parts have you inspected the gaskets that are sandwiched between the burner head and the main surface of the cooker? For reference they're part number 18A on the link from @WelshGas. When we bought our camper one of the rings was underperforming (but mostly inactive) and it turned out the gaskets had cracked which let air draw in so the gas mixture wasn't strong enough to light. They're pretty cheap to buy and with a bit of gentle brute force, simple enough to fit.
thanks mrcheesbrough! for reference the part number is
701070606H


How many gaskets per burner?
 
Ah ha. Another part number to add to an ever growing list.

There are two gaskets per burner. One sits on the underside of the metal cooker surface (that's the most awkward one to get in) and the other sits above the metal surface, sandwiched between that and the burner cap. You probably know but the cooker is pretty easy to remove from the work surface which should make things a bit easier to get too. Fingers crossed this helps fix your problem.
 
Thanks Welsh gas, so I replaced the thermocouple and the issue is still there. Could my issue be the valve? Item 35 in the diagram. I can't seem to get the part number from this diagram, does anyone know the part number?
thank you for all the help
I can't seem to track that part number down, but maybe the gaskets will sort the problem.
 
Incidentally @Redlyne_mr2 you don't say whether the burner will stay lit with you holding the regulator knob in. If it does and has a healthy flame then it's unlikely the gaskets are the cause of your problem. I imagine if the thermocouple was at fault then you would get a flame but then it wouldn't stay lit when you release the knob after a few seconds.
 
Did I not say? If I keep the knob pressed the gas stays lit. As soon as I let go it turns off. I replaced the thermocouple and the issue is still there. Thats what leads me to believe its a valve but I can't find the part number.
 
Have you actually tested the thermocouples resistance with a voltmeter and heat source ?
 
Did I not say? If I keep the knob pressed the gas stays lit. As soon as I let go it turns off. I replaced the thermocouple and the issue is still there. Thats what leads me to believe its a valve but I can't find the part number.
Based on this I'd leave the gaskets alone. The fact you get a flame suggests they are fine. If you disturb them, they're quite fragile with a few years use, and you're likely to make them a problem. Back to checking the thermocouple/valve scenario I guess. Sorry it's not proving so simple. With all the know-how round here we'll get there.
 
ok good to know.. I tested the original one, tested out ok, I still ordered a new one just in case. The new one still did the same thing. Now Im thinking Valve.
 
ok good to know.. I tested the original one, tested out ok, I still ordered a new one just in case. The new one still did the same thing. Now Im thinking Valve.
Is this diagram of any use?
It doesn't show the valve but does have part numbers.
I presume you have 2 burners and one is not working, so I presume the Temp Sensor goes from the burner to the valve. If the sensor is OK then the valve is not responding to the sensor input. So it could be the valve.
http://partscatalog.info/volkswagen...600135&bf=156&hgug=070&ug=70&parent_id=625404
 
Thanks for the help, I just don't see the valve there , I'm just I'm not the only person to need this part
 
Thanks for the help, I just don't see the valve there , I'm just I'm not the only person to need this part
I know it doesn't show the valve but it does show the part numbers for the R and L valves, one for each burner, which control the gas and respond to the Temperature sensor . That's all I can find I'm afraid.
 
Right then. I've been ploughing the t'internet for useful information on how the thermocouple safety valve works. All very interesting reading made more bearable by a large glass of good red wine located nearby. Based on what I've read this could be a simple case of there being a bad connection where the thermocouple is screwed into the burner regulator valve. Essentially the very small amount of current created by the heating of the thermocouple activates a magnetic solenoid that holds the valve open while there is heat applied. I imagine after 24 years of being in place there's every chance this maybe oxidised so the thermocouple - new or original can't supply sufficient current to work the solenoid.

I'd be tempted to carefully remove and dismantle the valve and see whether you can perform a little light servicing to the connection point and see if that sorts things. It's potentially save you £65 on the cost of replacing the valve outright but if you don't get a result you've lost nothing as it wasn't working right in the first place. Obviously this is easy for me to say as its not my cooker. ;)
 
Back
Top