T6.1 Under engine and gearbox protection plate: Alu or steel?

Flower Power

Flower Power

Messages
83
Location
germany
Vehicle
T6.1 Coast 150
I am thinking about installing a stronger replacement for OEM engine/gearbox protection shield. Instead of "plastic" I could use: (from eBay.de)
1. Aluminium, 3,5 mm, 9kg 299 euros
2. Steel ,2 mm, 12,57 kg 169 euros

One of the dangers I envision living in the Alps is/are ice balls left after plow goes and leaves a mess. Sometimes they will freeze solid overnight and are 30 cm high and are like rocks. Which plate would make a better sense? Steel will rust fast in the salt. Alu will resist. What do you think? Anyone has it? Which brand? Thanks.
 
I am thinking about installing a stronger replacement for OEM engine/gearbox protection shield. Instead of "plastic" I could use: (from eBay.de)
1. Aluminium, 3,5 mm, 9kg 299 euros
2. Steel ,2 mm, 12,57 kg 169 euros

One of the dangers I envision living in the Alps is/are ice balls left after plow goes and leaves a mess. Sometimes they will freeze solid overnight and are 30 cm high and are like rocks. Which plate would make a better sense? Steel will rust fast in the salt. Alu will resist. What do you think? Anyone has it? Which brand? Thanks.
I have 6mm aluminium engine & gearbox skid plate on my t6 (and protection for the rear diff too). It weighs around 18kg but is very burly, it was c.£250 in the UK. It was easy to fit and has saved me on a couple of occasions already on rocky tracks. 3mm aluminium or 2mm steel will I’m sure be better than the flimsy plastic trays fitted as standard and not too much of a weight penalty, I’d definitely go for aluminium with salt treated roads, just make sure they are vented and have drainage holes.
 
Definitely aluminium , unless you keep painting a steel one each year to stop rust,
I’ve used 6mm asfir aluminium engine and gearbox protection plates under a landcruiser I had and now a Hilux. They got plenty of scrapes from rocks so worked !
 
1. Aluminium, 3,5 mm, 9kg 299 euros
I would go with Alu esp with UK roads. Also, consider, what's your ultimate adventure? protection is only needed if you plan to do some med-/hard-core adventures

I have 6mm aluminium engine & gearbox skid plate on my t6 (and protection for the rear diff too). It weighs around 18kg but is very burly, it was c.£250 in the UK.
From where and who fitted them for you? I have been trying to source and get the breather vents for almost a year now without much luck.
 
I would go with Alu esp with UK roads. Also, consider, what's your ultimate adventure? protection is only needed if you plan to do some med-/hard-core adventures


From where and who fitted them for you? I have been trying to source and get the breather vents for almost a year now without much luck.
I got mine from Direct 4x4, if you have access to a ramp it’s fairly easy DIY job, the rear diff cover was a bit trickier
 
We have had the aluminum Seikel underbody protection installed in 2015, and it has served us well in many adventures ever since. Never regretted it.

We combined the installation with a trip in their region, so we had Seikel install the kit.
I like Seikel kit but I didn’t want to pay their prices for something that’s sole purpose is to take a beating! Probably worth paying the extra for rock sliders as some of the cheaper ones are more for aesthetics rather than designed to protect your van!
 
I went for 6mm Almont aluminium underbody protection (sump, fuel tank, Adblue tank and rear diff), together with Hess Rocksliders.
Been great on ruts, rocks and forest tracks of Orkney, Arran, Mull and Outer Hebrides

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I went for 6mm Almont aluminium underbody protection (sump, fuel tank, Adblue tank and rear diff), together with Hess Rocksliders.
Been great on ruts, rocks and forest tracks of Orkney, Arran, Mull and Outer Hebrides

View attachment 130090

View attachment 130091
I was worried about weight as I have a lot of kit on and in my van so just did engine/gearbox and rear diff (+ rocksliders). With a full tank of fuel/water, two people and smallish dog I’m pretty much right on the max GVM. I’m probably going to have to bite the bullet and get it re-classified a T32 but I begrudge the near £400 it costs for the paperwork!
 
Indeed. They used to charge around £250 but like everything else it’s been inflated massively. It’s not as if they can blame increased supply costs as it’s just a form filling exercise! Unfortunately there’s not a DIY option as it has to be a certified automotive engineer to do it. As far as I can tell the only requirement to have the base vehicle upgraded from 3080kg to 3200kg is load rated wheels and tyres?
 
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