Table dent repair and vinyl top - end results

MattBW

MattBW

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I had an accident a few years ago. A bungee wasn't attached to the fridge properly in the beach. On a tight bend the fridge hit the table in the sliding door pretty hard, leaving a permanent cracked indent in it.

I posted a few threads asking how to fix it, but I never got around to actually sorting it. At the Denmark meet last year I had some great advice from Bob as a professional french polisher on how he would fix such a problem. My plan was to add a vinyl topper to the table so I could fill the hole, he gave me a great tip for getting a smooth surface ready for that vinyl.
IMG_6146.JPGFirst we cleaned the table top with white spirit.
As advised I used a car body filler. Specifically I used Isopon P38 body filler to fill the dent (£6.99 for 4 packets). I used only a tiny part of 1 small packet, added the hardener and applied to the hole, smoothing the surface and ensuring there was enough inside. Within 20-30 minutes it was cured (see pic of unsanded filler) fully hardened and ready to sand. I used a fine sanding block to ensure a completely flat surface. It took probably only a minute or two for such a small hole to be completely smooth so that I couldn't feel the difference with my finger. It's important to note the sanding also took the texture off the table surface in that area, but as it would be covered I wasn't worried and it wasn't obvious to the eye.

Then we added the vinyl wrap, this was ordered to a size to ensure the whole of the table was covered. The door table measures 89cm x 51cm, so I just made sure it was slightly longer and wider to give room to trim. My vinyl was ordered from Pixers.

VBIP0322.JPGIt was relatively simple, we measured the table and accounted for the centre point at each end, the rear has a small gap in the trim in the centre, we also marked with a pencil on front edge. As we had a wood panel pattern it was relatively easy to line it up although perfection wasn't possible as the image wasnt perfectly symmetrical.

Application is very much like applying a decal, we peeled back the very end and folded over the backing, then stuck the first of the edge down. From there we used a Felt Edged Squeegee to ensure it was perfectly flat with no air bubbles. We then gradually peeled the backing off underneath, and squeegeed it as we went ensuring a good finish with no air bubbles. This worked better with two people.

Then it was simply a case of using a sharp craft knife and cutting around the edge, again using the trim edge on the table made this very easy, with the knife angled outwards slightly and taking our time. V did this part to ensure a good smooth edge.

All in all it took about 10 minutes to cut the vinyl and we are super happy with the results. Best of all if we fancy a change we can order a different pattern, remove this and reapply in a few minutes. I am no longer annoyed looking at that dent in my table, now I am loving the new look.

P.s. we did film a little to make a little video to show how easy it was, so that you don't do as I did and put it off for 2 years worried about making a mess.

IMG_6154.JPGIMG_6156.JPG
 
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That looks great. Good work Matt.

I'm tempted by the idea myself.

I'm amazed at how easily the surface of the table scratches. A simple slide of a bottle opener scratched ours.
 
That is very true @blondebier, the table had developed a few scratches too and looked pretty terrible. I almost wonder if a vinyl top from new would extend its life and protect underneath.

I had a thicker brushed aluminium style self adhesive sheet too, but it wouldn't have looked much different from stock so I opted for the more colourful option.
 
Nice job Matt, did you consider using the wet vinyl application method as you were squeeging out anyway?
 
@Loz I will be honest the one thing I didn't like about pixers was a lack of obvious application guide for any of their products. Pretty poor really.

The vinyl had a slight tackiness to it that my other vinyl applications havent, they do call it a sticker on their site. I wasn't sure if water was appropriate so risked it without. It turned out fine and I didn't get any bubbles or lifts. I suspect it would have worked well with water with hindsight but would welcome any advice or views for future applications.

Literally can't find a guide on their website when I search it crashes the site.
 
@Loz I will be honest the one thing I didn't like about pixers was a lack of obvious application guide for any of their products. Pretty poor really.

The vinyl had a slight tackiness to it that my other vinyl applications havent, so I wasn't sure if water was appropriate so risked it without. It turned out fine and I didn't get any bubbles or lifts, I suspect it would have worked well with water with hindsight but would welcome any advice or views for future applications.
I ask as I am always wary when any pattern includes lines and getting it right first time might be a challenge.
 
Yes that was our worry too. We simply measured a centre "plank" on the design and then aligned that blank centrally with the top and bottom of the table. Sadly I have no idea how easy it is to remove as we didnt need to but water may indeed have made it less difficult to remove if out of alignment. This is the product but no clear instructions I found... https://pixers.uk/table-desk-veneers
 
Top job @MattBW

I too used Pixers for my surfboard pattern on both tables. My boys fitted them and they used a wallpaper smoother which worked well. One smoothing and the other guiding the film. I love the colour they give. The one in the door almost looks like a mural when the door is closed!
 
Hi Matt

Is the vinyl affected by using the night heater? The vents in the B pillar areso close to the table, They heat it up, I ask because I did a vinyl cover on my table from new, fitted as you describe, careful to fully degrease the surface and trim the edges etc, over the winter and whilst using the heater the edges peeled away. Initially I just restock them, but then they simply peeled away again when using the night heater

I used a quality exterior automotive vinyl and thought all would be fine.

In the end I peeled the cover off in the end because it looked unsightly and defeated the object.

Did I just use the wrong vinyl or has anyone else experienced the dreaded peel from the heat generated from the vents in the B pillar ?
 
Sorry I dont know. I have an after market heater so my vent is in the seat base and directional so I can point it away from the table. You can getting a thicker more rigid adhesive , I have a roll at home but have never used it.
 
Hi Matt

Is the vinyl affected by using the night heater? The vents in the B pillar areso close to the table, They heat it up, I ask because I did a vinyl cover on my table from new, fitted as you describe, careful to fully degrease the surface and trim the edges etc, over the winter and whilst using the heater the edges peeled away. Initially I just restock them, but then they simply peeled away again when using the night heater

I used a quality exterior automotive vinyl and thought all would be fine.

In the end I peeled the cover off in the end because it looked unsightly and defeated the object.

Did I just use the wrong vinyl or has anyone else experienced the dreaded peel from the heat generated from the vents in the B pillar ?
If you would like the brushed aluminium style vinyl I have a spare roll I wont use now. Happy to pass it across if our paths cross. :) Shame to waste it.
 
If you would like the brushed aluminium style vinyl I have a spare roll I wont use now. Happy to pass it across if our paths cross. :) Shame to waste it.
Hi Matt
That’s very kind of you to offer, keep it you never know
Many thanks
 
Needed an extra table:
12a485166c943923160d05c1ca276531.jpg


5a62afd2608bde26c5a1e38349490635.jpg
 
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