‘Safe’ buy?

K

kgeddes

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5
Location
Scotland
Vehicle
Looking to buy
Hi, I am cosidering buying a 2010 T5.1 180. The vehicle had covered 97500 miles on the original engine and has recently had the bi turbo unit replaced. The seller is a trader who obtained the vehicle from a VW main agent. I have read much about the ‘drinking oil’ nightmare! The EGR cooler has no suffix letter (A or D). Does the fact that it’s reached 97500 mean it’s one of the good ones? What check can I do to ensure all is well? Any advice greatly received, thank you.....
 
Hi, I am cosidering buying a 2010 T5.1 180. The vehicle had covered 97500 miles on the original engine and has recently had the bi turbo unit replaced. The seller is a trader who obtained the vehicle from a VW main agent. I have read much about the ‘drinking oil’ nightmare! The EGR cooler has no suffix letter (A or D). Does the fact that it’s reached 97500 mean it’s one of the good ones? What check can I do to ensure all is well? Any advice greatly received, thank you.....
Oil contamination test and Compression test, but remember it has done almost a 100,000 miles and the figures, compression test etc: would reflect this.
 
Often the turbos are initially blamed for high oil consumption because vw don’t like to acknowledge the egr failure / engine death issue, so there is a chance it’s already got high oil consumption.....that the original owner tried changing the turbos, the oil consumption continued, so traded the van in. I’d be very careful of that spec / age of van, but particularly that one.
As WG suggests, tests are needed (and you’ll need to be confident it isn’t fresh oil trying to fool you) and I’d be looking for a warranty that specifically covers the engine replacement risk while you establish how much oil it is drinking.
 
If buying from a Trader you have Consumer rights of some protection so use it for a few good runs to highlight any oil consumption.

Once bought a used car from a Trader who wanted to sell a 'warranty' package. I said that I'd risk it, he then reduced the price but I still wasn't interested. he then bundled it in for free.
I later realised that what was really happening was that he was passing his 'Consumer Risks' on to the warranty Insurance.
 
Read all the threads, do the tests....if you still want to go ahead...get the dealer to change EGR to a model 'D', it's an expensive job, and may help when you try resell it.

On that year/engine, I'd also want an engine warranty. Be aware it can take a while to establish if it's using oil, often it only shows up on long trips, also they can drink a large amount of oil and still be considered within 'acceptable' limits by VW
 
Thanks for replies. Seller changed turbo in last two weeks due to eml light and limp mode. Oil was also changed at this point. I’ve attached a photo of the EGR....is this one of the ‘rogue batch’? I’ll ask for a compression test to be done. Passed mot test yesterday....would excessive exhaust fumes have been picked up if it was drinking oil? Thanks again....

87B14644-70B5-47FA-8DEF-5F242960A6DB.jpeg
 
I think these are symptoms of the dpf blocking.....due to oil being consumed rather than used for lubrication. I’d tread very carefully. Dealer is probably learning about this at the same time.

It is a ‘no suffix cooler, so before they even started to attempt to improve it.
Oil test won’t be valid with fresh oil. The analysis does normalise for different numbers of miles use, but doubt it makes any claims until 3k under its belt.

I wouldn’t rely on the mot pass for any reassurance.
 
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Thanks again for reply. Will a compression test be conclusive or is the bottom line that this age of 180 is simply to risky to purchase?
 
A compression test will help a load. If the compression is good and even across the cylinders, then changing the EGR to a /d would be a plan. A recent thread here revealed their compression test results, which will be a valuable comparison. Make sure you see the official print out. Don't rely on a verbal report.
 
Ok, I’ll ask for a compression test with official print out. Many thanks for your help. I’ll update the thread later....
 
EGR change is about £1500. I was told not to bother. I agree that the issue may be related to the EGR but not all vehicles suffer from the problem. Similarly, I'm not aware of the problem on later vehicles, i.e mine is 2015.
 
Seller wanted me to pay for the compression test with associated risk of a plug breaking.....so I have decided to pass and hang onto my trusty old, just run in, 164,000 mile T5! Thanks to everybody who helped me with this. All the best.:thumb
 
Seller wanted me to pay for the compression test with associated risk of a plug breaking.....so I have decided to pass and hang onto my trusty old, just run in, 164,000 mile T5! Thanks to everybody who helped me with this. All the best.:thumb

You made the right decision.
 
I wouldn't trade a T5 for a very early T5.1.
You should at least then take a 2015, or a T6.
There are more changes in them than in the early T5.1's.
And also don't take an early T6 as the first ones still had Euro 5 engines, and early model issues.
I took the plunge by buying a 2010 (made in 2009) T5.1. Up to now, engine wise, I only had a failing EGR (luckily the 140 hp), and a temperature sensor in the DPF.
The second EGR took me already 100000km further without issues.
 
I wouldn't trade a T5 for a very early T5.1.
You should at least then take a 2015, or a T6.
There are more changes in them than in the early T5.1's.
And also don't take an early T6 as the first ones still had Euro 5 engines, and early model issues.
I took the plunge by buying a 2010 (made in 2009) T5.1. Up to now, engine wise, I only had a failing EGR (luckily the 140 hp), and a temperature sensor in the DPF.
The second EGR took me already 100000km further without issues.
ALL the early T6 Californias, in the U.K. at least, had Euro 6 engines with AdBlue as they are registered as M1 Diesel Cars. Some early T6 Commercial vehicles had the Euro 5 engines but not the California.
 
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