A lot of fridge questions - 2007 T5 Cali Beach conversion

AlexBrown · Jul 10, 2019

Hi all. After posting a couple of questions on the Facebook group and getting some really helpful replies, I thought it would be better for me to start a thread on here to ask a handful of questions I have which are concerning me on recently purchased, second hand Beach converted into a California. It has OEM furniture including the Danfoss BD35f compressor on a Coolmatic CF40 top loading fridge.

Long story short, the workshop that did it here in Spain was a complete cowboy operation. I am having to take the matter up legally, but in the mean time I need to fix all the problems myself if I can. So I really appreciate all your time and patience in explaining anything you can to me!

I'll start with the fridge performance. A small chinese style controller has been fitted near my fridge in absence of the OEM computer (above dash). On this I can program the temperature, and have successfully got the fridge down to a lovely cold beer level previously, with ice forming on the back wall even. However here in Spain it is super hot now, and over the weekend I noticed the fridge was running constantly and ended up running my 2nd batt to 0% in one day.

First thoughts were that the thermostat could be bad, or some bad wiring etc. But now I am starting to think that it might simply just be too hot inside the van? Outside air temps are well above 30c, and inside the van when it is closed up, is far higher. Could the insulated walls themselves just be too saturated with heat thus effecting the thermostat, or just keeping the fridge at just too high of a temperature? Although the chinese computer was set to 4c, the reading was around 16c and could not go lower - thus running the batt dead as the compressor was constantly on.

If that could be the case, should I start thinking about installing some computer fans or even better insulating the fridge/van wall? There is no external vent I should add in the van metal wall.

Many thanks!

MattBW · Jul 10, 2019

I have a CF40 fridge (webasto) and never had much trouble with it, I can usually go 3 days with no trouble, much longer with a few hacks before we leave.

One thing that is worth doing periodically is ensuring there is no dust and lint behind the vent on the sides, this can cause over heating and over running. Also ensuring there is an air space around these vents is crucial. Ultimately though the hotter it is the more it will run and the more power it will use.

Can you share some photos so we can see?

The fridge should also have a auto cut out if the battery voltage goes too low.

AlexBrown · Jul 10, 2019

Hey Matt. Yes I will go make some proper pictures now. The fridge successfully cuts out on low voltage, I have also witnessed it cutting out when the desired temperature is achieved, then switches back on once it creeps up.

Have you had any problems or noticed any effects on yours in high temps 30-40c?

MattBW · Jul 10, 2019

Do you have any means to read your battery voltage? How does that look? Is the battery relatively new? I always give mine at least 24 hour charge on hookup before I go away to ensure max capacity.

Hottest I've ever been in was about 36-37c outside and yes it used quite a bit more power. We use a folding solar panel which really helped in sunny weather to make up for the increased power useage. I still got 2 or 3 days though even before solar panels.

We usually plug ours into the mains and freeze water bottles in the fridge before we leave. Once we are leaving we set the fridge back to 2 or 3c for travelling and then 4 or 5c once stopped. It hugely reduces the amount of active time giving a longer stay on battery plus you have ice cold water too.

Some of the solar threads may be worth a look, Roger is a forum sponsor and has kits that bolt onto the Beach rails without any real modification. In Summer you should never run out and in winter the fridge needs less power.

AlexBrown · Jul 10, 2019

OK just finished poking around and made some discoveries.

Yes I wired up a voltmeter to leisure batt, it charges fine when running engine and successfully disconnects when engine switched off (double checked with hand held voltmeter also). Was at 12.6 when I switched the fridge back on earlier.

So, I found out that the thermistor does in fact work, I held my fingers on it while switched on and saw the fridge temp reading (on Chinease computer) rise rapidly. I am thinking the following:
- thermistor cable isn't sufficiently insulated (see picture, is taped along bottom edge of fridge (above the compressor)
- the compressor was already getting warm after just a few minutes switched on, I think this increases the under fridge area ambient temp very quickly, in turn effecting the thermistor
- I can not see any fan. Is it meant to be in the compartment door( which is missing on my unit), see pictures

Fridge is currently left on in my parking, will return in couple of hours to see how it goes. I left the cupboard doors open for air, the windows of the van cracked and sun blinds on to reduce inside temp. There was already ice on the inside of the fridge after 10 minutes of being switched on and I was watching the temperature reduce.