Cupboard latch broken after 9 months..

[Kenisted]

Ours is 2.5 years old and being replaced under warranty

 

[sbmcd]

Help !

Currently away and the left hand cupboard latch appears to have cracked..

Where can I get a replacement? Is this a warranty item, they don't seem particularly robust.

D

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We have the same, 6 months old van

 

[sbmcd]

Once I've had the warranty repair done I'm going to fit a stop on the bottom slide to prevent the RHS cupboard door sliding into it and breaking the replacement.

Can't understand why VW could not come up with this simple fit to a common problem.

I'll post pics once done.

 

[crookrise]

Strange phenomenon, mine has just cracked. 6 months old.

 

[sbmcd]

Strange phenomenon, mine has just cracked. 6 months old.

As someone else pointed out it's a poor design, the right hand door slides to the fully open position and hits the left hand latch on the inside and cracks the plastic.

When my latch is replaced by VW next week I will install a stop in the bottom runner to prevent it happening again, I'll put a post up with a photo once done.

 

[pluc99]

Mine was replaced under warranty, with the statement that it happens a lot.

The latch on the other side just broke off. Presumably still a warranty replacement but I haven't contacted my guy yet.

 

[Viktorgeorge]

As someone else pointed out it's a poor design, the right hand door slides to the fully open position and hits the left hand latch on the inside and cracks the plastic.

When my latch is replaced by VW next week I will install a stop in the bottom runner to prevent it happening again, I'll put a post up with a photo once done.

If you take this route, rather than a brace as in #8, I think you will two stops, one for each door, for optimum protection. It could be a neater and simpler solution than the brace I fitted, so I am interested how it works in practice. Perhaps a top and bottom stop each side will be even better, only a trial will tell.

I look foward to your photo. I think a previous poster used a dome head screw as a stop, but there are lots of epoxy based possibilities too.

There is limited tolerance between stopping short of the latch and leaving space for the undersink drawer to open, though I am probably stating the obvious.

You are quite right @sbmcd it is a poor design to the extent that the stops are inadequate (but this is easily remedied), in all other respects I think the kitchen cabinet design is excellent and better than any alternative I have seen.

It also might be worth looking at reinforcing the 'tongue' at the LH door frame/keep.

 

[sbmcd]

If you take this route, rather than a brace as in #8, I think you will two stops, one for each door, for optimum protection. It could be a neater and simpler solution than the brace I fitted, so I am interested how it works in practice. Perhaps a top and bottom stop each side will be even better, only a trial will tell.

I look foward to your photo. I think a previous poster used a dome head screw as a stop, but there are lots of epoxy based possibilities too.

There is limited tolerance between stopping short of the latch and leaving space for the undersink drawer to open, though I am probably stating the obvious.

You are quite right @sbmcd it is a poor design to the extent that the stops are inadequate (but this is easily remedied), in all other respects I think the kitchen cabinet design is excellent and better than any alternative I have seen.

It also might be worth looking at reinforcing the 'tongue' at the LH door frame/keep.

Useful comments thanks, I've checked there is adequate clearance for the stop in the runner while still allowing the drawer to open., I'll provide a reference dimension for the stop. I'll consider a second stop as you suggest.

 

[Viktorgeorge]

Useful comments thanks, I've checked there is adequate clearance for the stop in the runner while still allowing the drawer to open., I'll provide a reference dimension for the stop. I'll consider a second stop as you suggest.

I think the LH door 'slamming' onto the RH door is as much of a risk to the latch(es) as RH to LH, but I think from your post that you think the same. Additional top of rail stops might be a luxury, but this you will likely discover once to start the fix.

 

[sbmcd]

Here is my solution, 10 mm OD neoprene hose as the "soft" stops, it's fuel hose I use on my motorcycles. It fits nicely into the cupboard door tracks which are slightly narrower.

24.5 mm long for LHS and 27.5 mm long for RHS, would probably work without adhesive but I'll add a dab of super glue.

 

[Viktorgeorge]

Here is my solution, 10 mm OD neoprene hose as the "soft" stops, it's fuel hose I use on my motorcycles. It fits nicely into the cupboard door tracks which are slightly narrower.

24.5 mm long for LHS and 27.5 mm long for RHS, would probably work without adhesive but I'll add a dab of super glue.

View attachment 138794

View attachment 138795

View attachment 138796

View attachment 138797

I think 10mm aluminium square rod such as below might be alternative, with soft rubber trimmed to the impact edge.

ALUMINIUM SQUARE BAR 1/4" TO 2" - 6MM TO 50MM ALL LENGTHS ALUMINIUM BAR | eBay UK

The ALUMINIUM SQUARE BAR is a versatile material made from high-quality 6063-T6/6082-T6 aluminium. This bar is available in various lengths ranging from 1/4" to 2" and 6mm to 50mm, making it suitable for a wide range of applications. The aluminium material is durable and corrosion-resistant...

ebay.us

 

[sidepod]

The problem with this latch, in my experience, is it over-engages in the door frame. This over engagement forces the user to press too firmly which results in it breaking.

Simple fix. File down the height of the ramp on the latch.

You can see here, I’ve filed a flat on the top of the ramp.
Do it bit by bit till the engagement/operation improves.

 

[sidepod]

In addition, loosening the hex head bolts on the inside of the latch and adjust the inner section till it doesn’t bind on the outer part. This gives a much better operation.

 

[sidepod]

Finally, adjust the height of the door so it actually hangs correctly on the two upper hangers. Mine was sitting on the bottom rail which just increases drag and binding.

Inside, remove the black tape to access the hex head bolts. Loosen off and raise the door so this gap reduces.

Both doors are now smooth slick one finger operation

 

[sbmcd]

The problem with this latch, in my experience, is it over-engages in the door frame. This over engagement forces the user to press too firmly which results in it breaking.

Simple fix. File down the height of the ramp on the latch.

You can see here, I’ve filed a flat on the top of the ramp.
Do it bit by bit till the engagement/operation improves.


View attachment 138994

That is interesting, and will certainly avoid excessive pressure to open the latch and ease engagement, but if you feel behind the latch when the opposite door is fully open you will find the door strikes the back of the latch. I believe that is the root cause of the cracking.