Hi Doug - i'd love to connect to hear your experience of importing. I have been planning to do the same but am glad i found your posts and can learn from your experience/challenges... Are you still trying to get through BC inspection to register and insure the vehicle?
Hello Steve,
I am close to getting the van through inspection after 6 months. Looking back I see one significant error in the entire process, one that I should have fully taken charge of - in the same manner as I normally do in my life. The preliminary error was not making the purchase conditional on a full German "new" roadworthy examination, with a fully operation MIL light. The German broker had suggested that being only 13 months after its roadworthy it was probably unnecessary to redo. I should have demanded it. Even that is not a guarantee as as sophisticated as these vehicles are there are many items that are difficult to diagnose. The vehicle did not have a MIL - nor any error codes. The first BC 'out-of-province' inspection did not have the programming to fully read the vehicle, but passed all items checks other than MIL. Nor does VW Canada have full coding for it. VW North America will not order parts for a vehicle that is not registered in Canada - you can see the problem.
The van sat at VW while I pulled the ECU, shipped to England for test/repair. 3 weeks later the ECU is returned "No faults found;Good Working order". I then shipped the instrument cluster off to Blightly for repair evaluation. Repair replaced all LEDs - all working. Another three weeks. Upon re-install MIL does not light, VW is hopeless, throws up their hands, suggest I write VW Canada seeking assistance; they don't offer to do this themselves, but tell me they spoke with regional manager (?!).
No fault codes exhibited. I send the unit back to England after a long talk with the repair shop; he suggests another avenue.
I get the unit back and from another forum and catch word that some have traced MIL light problems to a poor quality ignition rotary switch, (also used on some Audi A3,A4). I buy the $40 switch, takes 5 minutes to install, pop instrument panel back in MIL operates.
Next I take the van to local VW 'Beetle Haus' They put the van up on the hoist, drive it around the block, report back: One ball joint rubber fully split, 2nd cracking, front brake discs are badly corroded, spalling from corrosion, control arm bushing shot. Shuddering of steering means one of three things (a) MacPherson strut top bearing are shot (common problem on early T5), (b) steering rack seals are worn/leaking (c) change of fluid and add Lucas conditioner. None of these 'defects' were noted on first inspection by "registered gov't inspection facility". They recommend I use Dr. Bjorn who imports VW diesels from Germany to do a parts order. Bjorn tells me he can look after all parts for the van, has network and full parts catalogues. None of my local parts suppliers are able to find domestic sources of these parts. Parts numbers from a Russian data base (great Audi/VW resource, full cross application of numbers to other world markets) do not tie to any North American parts network. Place order with Bjorn.
After 8 weeks parts not arrived. I begin pulling my own order together: poly bushings from England, ball joints and strut bushing from eBay.UK sellers. I pull the control arms off the van (on jackstands), have a machine shop press old bushings out (35 tons pressure req'd) - none are split or collapsed. Heat and two weeks of daily application of penetrating oil required, long spanners. Install poly bushes, and ball joints (German parts still not arrived - 10 weeks - tales of Covid). Tracking eventually reveals the parts sitting in Mississauga postal depot for 6 weeks. (Canada Post is complete sing).
In the meantime, I scrape all rust off old calipers, clean venting and find the one independent brake/muffler shop that still turns brake discs: fresh surfaces and .7 mm over the minimum thickness. German brake parts & misc. arrive; pads are good but they sent 330 mm. discs instead of 308. I decide against changing out the strut bearings, pull most of the fluid out of the steering resevoir, refill with fresh synthetic steering fluid and Seafoam transmission cleaner /conditioner, drive three times around the block (no plates or insurance) to mix it all up. Three weeks later I pull all the fluid out, refill with fresh and 30 ml. of Lucas power steering fluid. No discernable shudder, leaks or drips anywhere.
At suggestion of old hotrodders, I book the van in for inspection at 3rd "facility" with reputation for good work and reasonableness. Due to Covid opening up everyone is trying to get vehicles on the road but garages are still operating understaffed or restricted by existing Covid protocols. Earliest available date is 2 1/2 weeks out. On the day I deliver the van, wait for the phone call from the garage and hopes of a 'pass'. Call late in the afternoon; there is a brake pad warning light on for the rear brakes (it certainly wasn't on when delivered, never had been on before or after I did the fronts) and "Someone has cut the bottom of the right tie rod end stud and the Nyloc does't properly engage - it's a safety issue and I won't pass it.'
After picking the van up (moved under 1 day transit A-to-B only) permit. I call the garage and tell him that the reason the brake pad wear warning light was on was because they drove it with the parking brake on....and offer to send him a video of the brake light operation. "Fix that tie rod end and I'll pass it - I'll give you 30 days. I'll say this, that's a helluva a unit!"
I could write more but I think that is enough for the moment. The vehicle itself is sound; virtually no engine blowby present, good power, drives straight, body and fittings immaculate. I'm having some issues with the dealer over this yet unresolved. 6 months of use lost. There is an issue of supply availability: finding a 15 year+ van that has been consistently maintained and yet have relatively low mileage - they are not dozens of them that come up and one has to be quick given our distance from the source. Prices for units in England are significantly higher than Europe and I would not really want a right hand drive model, despite years with them in Africa.
Develop your own resources - register with MyGermany.com who provide with a virtual German post address and goods forwarding. cheers, Doug