Electric side door?

T

thefloyd203

Messages
3
Hi, I'm new to this site and don't yet own a California but I'm very close to taking the plunge after agonising over it for an awful long time, my girlfriend thinks I need therapy! But I'm nervous, 40k is a lot of money after all and I don't want to be disappointed so I've been reading a lot of stuff people have commented on within this forum to help me with my decision.
I've been to view a fairly new 180 with lots of bells and whistles recently and it has an electrically actuated side door which looks very nice but as far as I can see not very practical when camping, (I read about people draining their main battery) and I fear would crack me up after a while. I'm more accustomed to a door which just just slides open manually in a second rather than having to wait while it does it's star trek impression. I read on here somewhere that you can de-activate it with a switch up front, can anyone confirm this? Does it become a totally manual door? Also, if a mate who's had a few too many tries to open it manually while it's in electric mode is he he going to cause any damage?

Another thing I'm not impressed with is the lack of a spare wheel if you you have 18inch wheels fitted. Have I got that right? Bearing in mind what this vehicle is meant to be used for and the remote locations you could find yourself in, I think a spare wheel is absolutely essential.

I do have a few other uncertainties but I've run out of time for now. Any words of wisdom from experienced owners would be much appreciated.

Cheers.
 
Hi,

You can turn the electric opening and closing of the door off with a button on the dash. If you have 18 inch wheels and tyres then you can get a spare wheel carrier and bolts as well as a 17 inch spare and tyre to fit underneath that will fit and have the same rolling radius as the 18 inch wheels so won't cause any issues.

cheers
 
Three points about the side door. On returning from the twice yearly wheel changeover one of my winter wheels rolled out in an escape bid from the passenger compartment. It did so just as the electric door closed on its own accord - as it frequently and incredibly irritatingly does. This knocked the door off its front top roller. I managed to get the roller back in the track after an initial panic - we were just about to head for COTF. The bad news is that it snapped off a little plastic peg-mounted sensor behind the roller (why is there SO much flimsy plastic in these vehicles?) and that is costing me over £200 including labour and VAT to be replaced by my local VW Van centre this morning.

So... if you have anything heavy that might try and escape, lock the door open so that it doesn't auto close inadvertently. Better still, never store a wheel upright! My second point is the safety bleep on door closing. Yes, I know why it's there but if you want to slip out to the loo in the middle of the night it doesn't half annoy the neighbours on a camp site. I have asked the dealer to try to switch this off for me. I just noted the previous post from SMG that you could switch off the electric closer but havent found that switch yet.

A final (saving) point is that I sprained my wrist in September tripping over an awning rope whilst packing down (doh!) and without the electric closer wouldn't have been able to close the door manually at all. So it has its uses. Hoping for a less accident prone year from now on.
 
I'm a big fan of our electric sliding door but I admit it does have it's downsides. The beep is noisy but we've got used to it, certainly never had any complaints from other campers and we tend to go to bed late.
As far as I'm aware you can't turn the beep off but maybe Alex could confirm or deny this.
The more serious problem is when you turn off the electric function via the switch on the dash. The door is very heavy to use in manual mode, so heavy in fact that my other half can't open or close it though she is very slight!
Don't know if it's the resistance of the motors but you wouldn't want to use it very often. I'm fairly certain that one day I'll break off the external door handle:cry:
We don't often stay on sites without hook up but we did 2 nights over the bank holiday and it was starting to annoy me!

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
It's a lot more irritating waiting for the RAC when you've flatten your battery like we did two weeks ago,then losing your radio,sat nav etc ,etc and not knowing your code!! :?
 
SusiBus said:
It's a lot more irritating waiting for the RAC when you've flatten your battery like we did two weeks ago,then losing your radio,sat nav etc ,etc and not knowing your code!! :?
Yeah we had that happen to us last year as well. Luckily we were staying on a site with a friendly owner who had us up and running in no time.
Hence why we will always turn off the electric function from now on when not on hook up.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
The beep can't be turned off from the electric sliding door. The door is a lot heavier once the electric assistance is turned off I agree.

cheers
 
Thanks for the input - as always really useful. Hadn't even considered the battery drain and as we rarely stop where there's a hook-up we'll be much more careful in future about using the door closer.
 
Many thanks for the replies, very helpful. It sounds like more hassle than it's worth and is almost putting me off buying. Am I just being ridiculously fussy there??
 
We don't tend to stay in one place more than a couple of nights and have reasonable drives in between, so the lack of hookup hasn't been an issue with the electric door - or anything else for that matter. However, without power our door was very tricky to close from the inside over the CoTF weekend (mind you, it 'was' broken). If you intend regularly to spend several nights in a row in one place without daytime driving or hookup 'and' do not have strong arms and wrists, I would not choose the electric door. Don't let that put you off getting a Cali, though!
 
As above if you're unsure about the electric door then buy a cali without one. I like it though plenty on here don't.


Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
So, is the powered door run off the leisure batteries or the engine battery - I thought it was the engine battery (not the best option, but I thought this was the case)?

Ian
 
Yes,the engine battery,and it only took us one night of admittedly heavy use to flatten it !

Another warning! If your door suffers the occaisional problem that during closing mode it suddenly stops,does a shudder, and opens again.Check your rear wheel arch for scuff marks where the door bangs against it.I've been advised by a fellow sufferer to fix a small piece rubber etc,to protect both the wheel arch and the inner door card.

Yes, an electric door is cool on occaisions.Would I buy it again,NOT if I was going to camp not using electic hookm ups.I can hear manual door owners laughing all the way to the bank with the money they have saved! :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Thanks for that - wondered where that scuff came from - now I know!

So, on my pre-facelift model (2007), or 'original' as I like to call it :D , the hook-up doesn't charge the engine battery once the leisure batteries are full - is that also right?

Once my engine battery is flat, it's flat...

Ian
 
Tayls said:
Thanks for that - wondered where that scuff came from - now I know!

So, on my pre-facelift model (2007), or 'original' as I like to call it :D , the hook-up doesn't charge the engine battery once the leisure batteries are full - is that also right?

Once my engine battery is flat, it's flat...

Ian
That's a tricky one. I believe from 2007 onwards the engine battery is charged when on hook up. Certainly my 2009 does.
Whether that means any 2007 van or model year 2007 (ie say September 2007 or whenever the new model came out) I don't know.
If you know anybody who has a voltmeter you could test it yourself to see if it's charging when on hook up

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Our Owner's manual for the '06 mentions ONLY the additional battery (batteries if you have the heater) being charged by the built-in mains charger. It seems that the only source of charge for the vehicle battery is the alternator. Forewarned is forearmed, as they say. The CTEK will travel with us now and be connected every time we have a mains hookup.
 
I agree, I've just ordered a CTEK MXS 3.6 and cigar lighter adaptor as the engine battery on mine is definitely NOT charged while on hookup.

Good price on Amazon, and it'll be here tomorrow

Cheers all
Ian
 
I know the bigger ones are quite pricey but I'd check the advised rating of that CTEK against your battery. I have two of the 7's for my Land Rovers and they do the trick really well with their large batteries - The 110 has two glass mat ones charged through a split charger unit.

The CTEK comfort charger adapters are great too and I've fitted them to all our cars so no faffing with bonnet catches and croc clips on cold wintry nights for preventative topping up.

I find it incredible that the vehicle main batt isn't charged from hookup as standard on the pre 2007s, especially as the radio/CD unit gets its juice from there. But then if Calis were perfect what would we have to talk about? ;-)
 
Thanks Rob, It will do maintenance charge for up 10 120ah, so should be fine, there was also a very helpful feedback on the MXS5.0 product stating that they will all charge much higher batts than stated, but just take longer.

As I really do only need it to maintain and not charge from flat then I should be fine, but thanks for checking

cheers
Ian
 
I mean, look at this (feedback on Amazon is great):

"It's confusing, isn't it? The award winning XS3600 (soon to be renamed the MXS 3.6), the newer award winning XS4003 (soon to be discontinued), and now the MXS 5.0? They all recharge most peoples' motorbikes/cars/vans/campers with typical 12-volt batteries of average size and capacity, and they even all look much the same! Help!

I'm a long-term user of the XS3600, more recently the XS4003, and now the brand new MXS 5.0. CTEK is without doubt a market leader, selling many of their own chargers branded as genuine Rolls-Royce, Bentley, and Porsche accessories (amongst many other makes - including Mercedes and Audi - and at premium prices!). It stands to reason then that product design, quality, and reliability of a CTEK charger is beyond question, and the claimed less than 2% returns of "defective" CTEK chargers is testament to that. But for us mere mortals in the real world with real cars, the choice of CTEK models at the lower end of the price spectrum is confusing. I say lower-end, but a CTEK charger still isn't cheap compared to many other makers' models of apparently similar capability... but the old adage of "you get what you pay for" remains never truer.

To understand what this new CTEK MXS 5.0 model offers, it helps to know what else CTEK offer at similar price levels: Here're my thoughts from a users perspective in helping to explain the differences:

CTEK MXS 3.6 / MX3600: The long-standing and multi-award winning CTEK XS3600 provides 3.6 amps output, and is capable of charging and maintaining a 12-volt car/van/camper or motorcycle battery of between 1.2 amps and 120 amps. Once charged, the XS3600 will maintain that battery by monitoring its' voltage, and topping it up as and when required: As such, the battery can be left connected to the charger indefinitely. The 4-step charging sequence is: 1) "desulphation" (a short initial pulse to shake off any deposits within the battery), 2) "bulk charge" (where most of the power is restored into the battery), 3) "absorption" (the power is then gently topped up to maximum capacity, but slowly to avoid overheating), and finally 4) "pulse maintenance" (the battery is monitored and topped up when the voltage falls through natural discharge - this exercises the battery). It also has a `cold weather' setting (a 14.7 volt charge rather than the usual 14.4 volts), for use on icy days or for certain AGM battery types. It soon will be renamed the MXS3.6, but it's identical to the XS3600 in all functional respects. This charger does the job, reliably and consistently well (better than most other brands I've tried), but without the additional frills. It's all most people will want or need for a city hatch-back up to a larger executive saloon or a workman's van. The slightly lower charging power means it'll take slightly longer than the others here to charge a fully flat battery, but a typical car battery can usually be charged adequately overnight (within 12-24 hours).

CTEK XS 4003: The later and similarly award winning CTEK XS4003 provides 4.0 amps output, making it marginally quicker when charging a fully flat battery, and it too is capable of maintaining a fully charged battery of similar (slightly higher) capacity. In addition to the XS3600/MXS3.6's four charging sequences, it adds an additional four functions staggered between them: 5) a `soft start' function (a flat battery must reach a certain voltage level within the set time, ensuring it's healthy enough to continue charging), 6) an `idle test' (to ensure the battery is retaining its' charge), 7) `recondition' (a short, timed charge at a slightly higher 15.8 volts to help mix the battery acid to revitalise it), and 8) a `float' maintenance mode (this option holds the battery at a constant 13.6 volts for up to 10 days to maximise performance before reverting to pulse maintenance). Visually, the XS4003 adds separate visual indicators for each of its 8 charging and conditioning phases - helpful in gauging how healthy or knackered your battery really is!

CTEK MXS 5.0: This is the latest `lower cost' addition to the CTEK range, and is identical visually, functionally, and in features to the XS4003 which it replaces: It is the same, except CTEK have increased its' power by 25% to give 5 amps rather than the XS4003's 4 amps output. However, this 25% increase in power affects the bulk charging phase only, and as the absorption phase can often take just as long as bulk charging, it doesn't make the MXS 5.0 25% faster overall (CTEK publish a graph on their own website which explains why). Whilst it helps differentiate between it and the retained cheaper XS3600/MXS 3.6 model, an average car battery is still likely to need at least an overnight charge if it's moderately flat. If you already own CTEK's XS4003, I personally see little real benefit in 'upgrading' to this latest MXS 5.0: They're both great chargers with virtually all the features of even CTEK's most expensive chargers... just with less overall power.

All these CTEK chargers provide sufficiently smooth charging current and can in most cases be connected directly via your cigarette lighter socket (provided the socket can be used even when the key is out of the ignition) - without disconnecting the battery from the car or even lifting the bonnet! The cars' sensitive electronics should remain unharmed in all charging states except when possibly using (choosing to use) the recondition function of the XS4003/MXS 5.0. An adaptor Ctek CTE-56263 Ctek Cigarette Lighter Connector Adaptor is available for this purpose, and is well worth buying in my opinion if only to avoid the dirt under the bonnet! All these chargers also require a minimum voltage from the battery to be able to recognise it (usually about 2 volts - a car battery is already considered flat when it falls below 10.8 volts!). Whilst all these chargers are in my view superior to others in recovering even old and abused batteries, they can't perform miracles. If your battery is life-expired or has been seriously neglected, it'll likely need replacing. Also worth mentioning is that all these chargers will cope with batteries much bigger than the maximum capacity stated - it simply means it'll take proportionately longer to fully charge a really large flat battery... but they will get there! For battery maintenance purposes, you'll likely notice no difference between any of these and CTEK's much larger, more expensive models. However, for regular bulk charging of significantly bigger batteries, CTEK's 7 amp XS7000 (now renamed MXS 7.0), or the latest 10 amp MXS 10 are probably better choices (they add very little other than more charging power making a full charge of a large battery relatively quicker).

As for choice between these lower end models, only you can decide. Cost is a relevant factor balanced against performance and features, and in this respect the cheapest and sturdy long-surviving XS3600/MXS3.6 undermines the newer models by its sheer ability to meet most peoples' needs brilliantly. On the other hand, if cost is of lesser concern the latest MXS 5.0 will satisfy both the gadget-freak and those who simply want the best available - those separate LED charging indicators are really useful! Whatever you choose, the build quality and reliability of CTEK chargers has proven to me that any of these models will prove a sound investment and will likely last you a lifetime... at least until electrically powered cars become the norm!"
 

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