- T5 SE 140
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Firstly, how do you know the pump has failed and not the tap microswitch?Water pump replacement.
Hi there, no water from tap - fuses are ok, I have 12volts to the water pump and have managed to remove the cover on the tank (no mean feat) I can see the water pipe, easy enough to cut and reinsert the with the new pump - but what happens to the 12v supply cable?
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Hi, when I turn the tap on i get 12v to the connector water pump endFirstly, how do you know the pump has failed and not the tap microswitch?
sorry KG Cali - got confused as who i was replying too -Have a read of this ...
Thread 'How to Fix Kitchen Tap and Water Pump Problem and solution.' https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/thread...ap-and-water-pump-problem-and-solution.10211/
I was getting concerned with your question as to what to do with the electrical wires.Fab - diolch Welsh Gas - look like need to cut the 12v cable and reconnect to fit new pump
Hi, when I turn the tap on i get 12v to the connector water pump end
sorry KG Cali - got confused as who i was replying too -
Just to add to this thread.
That is really useful to know! I recently replaced my water pump and, just like yours, felt a bit stiff but I didn't see anything strange with it, so figured it would be dead in the inside. I will give this a try and see if I too have a spare pump now.Just to add to this thread.
Had a similar issue with the fresh water pump not working after filling tank after drain down over winter and testing.
All electrical test (fuse, micro switch at tap and power to pump were all good, so this left either seized pump, burnt out by running without water(most unlikely) or plain just having given up.
So extracted pump, (Did not need the access hatch spanner just a good adjustable spanner to catch in the plastic ribbed top to free ).
Found that the impeller would turn but felt a little stiff but not having a new pump to compare to, seemed about right resistance for having the motor attached.
Refitted and shook it about in the water and banged on side and bottom of tank in hope that if it was a seized impeller, this would free it (as many others have found).
No luck, so ordered a new pump from the shoppe and fitted this. Note the rubber grommet for the power cable into the tank is a right bast@-d to get back in with the cable through it. Careful but necessary force with a screwdriver tip without cutting the grommet. Tried with just the unsleeved tail leads through but felt that these may have snapped trying to pull on these to get the waterproof outer cable back through the grommet.
Anyway, gave to impeller a spin and found it to be much easier to turn than the one I took out. Made the electrical reconnection and water flowing fine.
So turned my attention to the old pump and using a drill shank pushed hard on the end of the motor spindle.
There was a distinct give and click as something reseated.
Tested the old pump (in water to avoid running dry and worked perfectly.
So now have a spare pump but thought others may want to know about this as just rattled my the pump may not be enough to free a seize impeller after draining the tank and over wintering as a dry pump.
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