Getting the spare tyre back in its holder

[briwy]

If you put the back of the wrench in the hole of the basket, you (at least I) can easily lift the basket with the standard 16" steel back in place. No need for jacking the basket up.
Also the standard jack (although it feels a bit wonky) met up to the requirements for me, even on cobblestone where it could slip any moment.
But if you think you need other gear, I won't stop you.
It's just getting used to it (but not too much, or it means you break down too often...).

Thats very good of you not to stop me doing what I want.

 

[Velma's Dad]

If you've never tried changing a Cali wheel by the roadside I can pretty much guarantee you that either (a) the tyre shop will have over-torqued the wheel nuts and you'll stand almost no chance of getting the crucial one - probably the locking nut - to free off using the semi-useless 'jawbone of an ass' wheel brace they supply with the van; or (b) having actually got the nuts off you find that particular wheel hasn't been off for a while and it's corroded fast to the hub and even big whacks with a block of wood (you happen to have one, right?) or awning tie-down mallet / rocking the van with wheel nuts loose / any other cute trick or brute force methods you want to try, won't get the bloody thing off.

To avoid: (1) take the wheels off TOMORROW and put a smear of copper grease on the wheel/hub mating surfaces (you didn't have much else to keep you busy until 2 December, did you?); (2) stand over the blokes in the tyre bay every time the van is in for new tyres and make sure they don't go silly with the impact gun; (3) carry a proper wheel brace or socket bar with a decent 19mm socket that gives you a fighting chance at the roadside.

Personally I don't hold with this "call the AA" stuff - last time you had to call them out, how long did they take? Couple of hours, or did you get lucky? Whereas I reckon I can change a wheel and be on my way in 15 mins.

 

[FarAndAway]

It's a lot easier if you use a scissor jack or smll hydraulic bottle jack instead of the VW one. Just put the jack under the cage and wind it up.

A problem with our ‘van’ is that the previous owner (presumably) must have used a non std jack with no pad under each front jacking point and damaged it to such an extent that the std onboard “widow-maker” won't now fit. (One of the jobs on my magic list is to straighten them before the next ‘flat’.) Word to the wise: if you use an alternative jack which has a small head, fit a suitable intermediate block to avoid such damage. Warning: make sure whatever you use, the whole arrangement is extra-safe against slipping or toppling and if your process involves swapping wheels always place the unmounted one strategically under the vehicle near the jack in case of catastrophe. (Apologies to some if this is the egg-sucking tuition but it won't be to others.)

 

[Louis II]

Some rare positive press for Kwik Fit.
I removed both rear wheels recently to replace the rear shocks & springs and the wheels came off fine having been copper slipped and not overtightened. I also found the factory jack adequate. If anyone is worried about changing a spare I would definitely recommend having a go on the drive, it's really not that bad and is the most reliable way of getting back on the road after a flat.