I am having REAL heater and battery issues! Help (please?)

[chockswahay]

Thanks @yossarian, I was just typing a reply and saw your suggestion regarding @scabrero. I will ask him as I have a feeling all this is above my pay grade

 

[chockswahay]

Or you could ask @scabrero to send it to you privately. These things are copyright so don't put it on the open web.

I just tried but message says I can not start a conversation…….

So……….. @scabrero ….. if you see this can you help please? Thank you

 

[RockinNRollin]

I just tried but message says I can not start a conversation…….

So……….. @scabrero ….. if you see this can you help please? Thank you

Scabrero isn't a VIP so you can't PM.

 

[sidepod]

A vernier calliper measuring the OD of a wire used to determine its CSA?
Ball park at best!! Cable insulation thicknesses do vary and are not an accurate indicator of current carrying capacity.
I fully understand what’s going on here but, really?

 

[chockswahay]

A vernier calliper measuring the OD of a wire used to determine its CSA?
Ball park at best!! Cable insulation thicknesses do vary and are not an accurate indicator of current carrying capacity.
I fully understand what’s going on here but, really?

Well you do have a point there. Would you have an alternative suggestion perhaps?

 

[Corradobrit]

Well you do have a point there. Would you have an alternative suggestion perhaps?

I don't think its supposed to be a NASA approved scientific measurement. The wire gauge diameters will be consistent across a batch of wire looms. The updated looms will have a measurably different wire gauge and that is all this test is highlighting. The question being asked is whether the loom has problematic smaller gauge or improved larger gauge wire installed.

 

[yossarian]

If the measurement including insulator is smaller that the conductor diameter specified you have a smoking gun. And it's non invasive.

 

[sidepod]

As I said, I’m aware of what it’s looking to achieve, it just might have been better if it included a bit of science ie, the load is X, the length is Y so therefore this core needs to be minimum 1.5mm2 etc.

 

[chockswahay]

As I said, I’m aware of what it’s looking to achieve, it just might have been better if it included a bit of science ie, the load is X, the length is Y so therefore this core needs to be minimum 1.5mm2 etc.

I thought that was why there is a TPI on my van…… it might have the wrong cables for the current but I personally do not know how or where to measure them

 

[yossarian]

As I said, I’m aware of what it’s looking to achieve, it just might have been better if it included a bit of science ie, the load is X, the length is Y so therefore this core needs to be minimum 1.5mm2 etc.

My understanding is that VW did this calculation and put the minimum info possible in the TPI. VW changed the production wiring harness and will change harnesses under warranty if the end user reports a matching problem during the warranty.

 

[chockswahay]

The heater, after the high heat phase of startup should back off to the low heat output state. If the cabin temperature then falls the heat output should gradually increase to bring the cabin temperature back up then it reduces and this will happen continuously. However, if during the low heat output phase the cabin temperature continues to rise then the heater will switch to a standby state, still on but not running and once the temperature drops will restart in the high output state and so on.
There could be a fault with the air inlet temperature probe not reading correctly . I doubt if VW have the technology to read the Eberspacher heater operational parameters. I could be wrong. If they accept there is a fault then they will just replace the whole heater. You will have a fight on your hands. Alternatively an Eberspacher expert may be able to sort it. The problem is VW use specialised VW software to manage the heater rather than the Eberspacher software and controller.

This morning I took a digital thermometer out to the van and played with the heating for nearly 2 hours. Batteries had been on EHU since yesterday so pulled the breaker and let them rest for an hour, resting volts 12.7

Then I started up the heater on setting number 7 and it ran exactly as you say it should for an hour then switched to standby. The temp in the van at start was 10c and after 20 mins 18 then finally steadied out at 20.5 before standby at 20.8. Ten mins later the heater started up again when internal temperature had dropped to 20.2.

At this point I got a bit reckless (!) and pulled the fuse to the overhead control panel and also pulled the battery sensor to the front battery. After putting them back in next thing I know is the bar graph shows FULL ……….. but the indicated time left to run was 10 MINS……. OK no panic, it’s all about volts as you say and this was 12.6

So where does this all leave me? I’m not really sure tbh. I will let it all settle and go from there. This whole fiasco is wearing me thin so I will step away from it for a while.

During my research I have discovered that the Eberspacher is power hungry so maybe I am just expecting too much for it to run more than 24 hours non stop off the hook.

Time for a new duvet/ sleeping bag……. and at least my wife will be back next week ……she is like a hot water bottle

 

[flying banana]

My t6 16 plate has the eberspacher and will run all night no issues. I winter camp on batteries regularly . The 6.1 should be the same so somethings amiss. Many people say the heating in 6.1 doesn't seem to be as good as the 6 but who knows. Have you checked your cube fuse? You may be running on 1 battery

This morning I took a digital thermometer out to the van and played with the heating for nearly 2 hours. Batteries had been on EHU since yesterday so pulled the breaker and let them rest for an hour, resting volts 12.7

Then I started up the heater on setting number 7 and it ran exactly as you say it should for an hour then switched to standby. The temp in the van at start was 10c and after 20 mins 18 then finally steadied out at 20.5 before standby at 20.8. Ten mins later the heater started up again when internal temperature had dropped to 20.2.

At this point I got a bit reckless (!) and pulled the fuse to the overhead control panel and also pulled the battery sensor to the front battery. After putting them back in next thing I know is the bar graph shows FULL ……….. but the indicated time left to run was 10 MINS……. OK no panic, it’s all about volts as you say and this was 12.6

So where does this all leave me? I’m not really sure tbh. I will let it all settle and go from there. This whole fiasco is wearing me thin so I will step away from it for a while.

During my research I have discovered that the Eberspacher is power hungry so maybe I am just expecting too much for it to run more than 24 hours non stop off the hook.

Time for a new duvet/ sleeping bag……. and at least my wife will be back next week ……she is like a hot water bottle

 

[dspuk]

This morning I took a digital thermometer out to the van and played with the heating for nearly 2 hours. Batteries had been on EHU since yesterday so pulled the breaker and let them rest for an hour, resting volts 12.7

Then I started up the heater on setting number 7 and it ran exactly as you say it should for an hour then switched to standby. The temp in the van at start was 10c and after 20 mins 18 then finally steadied out at 20.5 before standby at 20.8. Ten mins later the heater started up again when internal temperature had dropped to 20.2.

At this point I got a bit reckless (!) and pulled the fuse to the overhead control panel and also pulled the battery sensor to the front battery. After putting them back in next thing I know is the bar graph shows FULL ……….. but the indicated time left to run was 10 MINS……. OK no panic, it’s all about volts as you say and this was 12.6

So where does this all leave me? I’m not really sure tbh. I will let it all settle and go from there. This whole fiasco is wearing me thin so I will step away from it for a while.

During my research I have discovered that the Eberspacher is power hungry so maybe I am just expecting too much for it to run more than 24 hours non stop off the hook.

Time for a new duvet/ sleeping bag……. and at least my wife will be back next week ……she is like a hot water bottle

I honestly don't think you have an issue - could it be that you're watching the amps too close as we do and worrying that he batteries don't last?

Like the fridge the heater will initially draw a lot of amps but once everything is working it is a on/off/on/off situation.

Our 6.1 works fine off grid for at least 3 days in winter with heater and fridge on perm. With a Roger panel we could likely eek out and extra day on that in winter and 5+ overall days easily in summer.

 

[chockswahay]

I honestly don't think you have an issue - could it be that you're watching the amps too close as we do and worrying that he batteries don't last?

Like the fridge the heater will initially draw a lot of amps but once everything is working it is a on/off/on/off situation.

Our 6.1 works fine off grid for at least 3 days in winter with heater and fridge on perm. With a Roger panel we could likely eke out and extra day on that in winter and 5+ overall days easily in summer.

I’m not inclined to disagree with you…. I probably do spend too much time looking at the panel……… however I wouldn’t need to if the heater would get through the night without shutting off completely I think the problem may be a combination of less than tip top condition batteries and the fact that below 11.9v the heater switches off (and seeing as the current draw on start up lowers the ‘seen’ voltage by about 0.4 to 0.5 volts I’m stuffed when the batteries are below 12.4 at rest)

 

[chockswahay]

Have you checked your cube fuse?

Yup. first thing I did

 

[Steve1]

I have posted on a couple of threads regarding these issues bit no real answers……

HEATER: I think it’s either faulty or rubbish! It will not stay running for more than 10 mins or so then turns off… van gets cold…..then it comes on again. The problem with this is that it spends a LOT of time drawing 10 amps and hammers the batteries! (I do not use EHU when camping). A point of interest…… should hot air be coming out of the drivers door pillar vent? I thought this was the intake air?

BATTERIES: Even after48 hours on charge at home the ‘resting’ voltage one hour later is 12.7 but the bar graph only shows 4 bars? I have checked the cube fuse and that has not blown. I put a multimeter the rear battery and volts showed 12.68 so seems reasonable (?).

RELATED ISSUES: I disconnected the EHU and put the parking heater on setting 3 continuous mode at 16:30 yesterday and by 09:30 this morning the heating had completely switched off and the batteries showed 12.3v at rest. Then when I turned the heater on again, battery meter showed 11.9v/10a then heating shut itself down (I thought this was not supposed to happen above 11.5v).

SO THEN: Is my heater faulty? am i expecting too much? are my batteries shot to pieces? Are people not using the heater overnight on battery only?
I have read so many posts proclaiming how wonderful and toasty warm the Cali is I am left thinking why not mine!? It strikes me that a diesel heater that can not be used overnight on battery is a pretty stupid design (on my boat I can leave the cheap Chinese diesel heater on all night non stop and it only draws 0.5 amps per hour). Also whilst I am ranting, the way the VW heater cycles on and off means long cold periods and short noisy ones when the fan is on.

I am lost at what to do quite frankly and this whole episode is really taking the fun out of going away in winter What am I doing wrong?

Does anyone have any useful thoughts please?

To diagnose if it's a heater or battery fault test the heating out while on hookup. If it's all good then probably battery (or wiring) if it's still bad on hook up then must be heater (or maybe wiring).

 

[dspuk]

I’m not inclined to disagree with you…. I probably do spend too much time looking at the panel……… however I wouldn’t need to if the heater would get through the night without shutting off completely I think the problem may be a combination of less than tip top condition batteries and the fact that below 11.9v the heater switches off (and seeing as the current draw on start up lowers the ‘seen’ voltage by about 0.4 to 0.5 volts I’m stuffed when the batteries are below 12.4 at rest)

Mine are 12.7 or so at rest. I used to fuss over them, but even with the solar panel, that’s where they sit and I’ve just learned to accept that. Doesn't seem to be an issue. If we are going to be on site off EHU for a few days I just make sure to drive there on max charge mode. I find that initial draw does not last and the batteries go back up as soon as the amps level out.

 

[chockswahay]

To diagnose if it's a heater or battery fault test the heating out while on hookup. If it's all good then probably battery (or wiring) if it's still bad on hook up then must be heater (or maybe wiring).

Done all that…… heater seems Ok ……. I suspect it’s the loom, but of course it could b th batteries…… or maybe the software?

 

[Steve1]

Done all that…… heater seems Ok ……. I suspect it’s the loom, but of course it could b th batteries…… or maybe the software?

When you charge your battery, does it eventually reach 14.4-14.6v with the current slowly decreasing then after a while switch down to 13.4 ish volts 0Ais charge. So does the smart charger see that it's finished tapering and switch to float ?

 

[WelshGas]

This morning I took a digital thermometer out to the van and played with the heating for nearly 2 hours. Batteries had been on EHU since yesterday so pulled the breaker and let them rest for an hour, resting volts 12.7

Then I started up the heater on setting number 7 and it ran exactly as you say it should for an hour then switched to standby. The temp in the van at start was 10c and after 20 mins 18 then finally steadied out at 20.5 before standby at 20.8. Ten mins later the heater started up again when internal temperature had dropped to 20.2.

At this point I got a bit reckless (!) and pulled the fuse to the overhead control panel and also pulled the battery sensor to the front battery. After putting them back in next thing I know is the bar graph shows FULL ……….. but the indicated time left to run was 10 MINS……. OK no panic, it’s all about volts as you say and this was 12.6

So where does this all leave me? I’m not really sure tbh. I will let it all settle and go from there. This whole fiasco is wearing me thin so I will step away from it for a while.

During my research I have discovered that the Eberspacher is power hungry so maybe I am just expecting too much for it to run more than 24 hours non stop off the hook.

Time for a new duvet/ sleeping bag……. and at least my wife will be back next week ……she is like a hot water bottle

On my T5.1 the Parking Heater + fridge and charging iPad and phone lasted 65 hrs and Control Panel showed 12.1 v at the end. Heater on continuously between Level 2 and Level 5. Outside temperature -10c and windy with periodic snow flurries. No Hookup.

 

[yossarian]

It might be worthwhile repeating your test now that you have full bar graph.

The heater shutdown might be triggered by the state of charge reading and not the voltage read by the heater.

The error codes (if any) might also be useful.

 

[chockswahay]

In a final act of desperation this morning I pulled the 5a Fuse and the front battery sensor again (could not get to the rear battery sensor) and waited for about 30 seconds then put them back in………. Left the van for a few hours…… had to drive into town and look what I found!

I’m getting somewhere!……..

 

[richardvwt4]

I can't help you but l can tell any issues l had were these:
I changed my Webasto completely to sit to the left of middle drivers side.. Lhd and it works fine, but l found it all works better with 2 litium LiFePO4. They just function so well in all senses.
The unit does make an awfully noisey racket for ages but make sure the temperature sensor is free of hindrance or it just won't reach the choice of warmth you set it to.
I put a 170w solar panel on the roof with a 100w control panel and this changed my van life. Easy to do.
Good luck

 

[chockswahay]

Just a quick update……. New batteries fitted, problem solved

Yup, I reckon my batteries are done for!

Mine is still on the original leisure batteries coming up for 10 years. It has had to have a new engine battery at 100,000 miles but not leisure. The van was well used for driving but not camping for the first 4 years before I bought it but rarely on hook up. Regularly plugged into the mains...

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