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Night Heater Operation ?

Doesn't look healthy, especially if it was looking like good voltage a few days ago. Worth sticking a voltmeter directly on the batteries.

There was a thread recently about accessing and ultimately replacing the batteries.
 
Minimum of a day, I'd stick them on for a couple of days.

I think the early chargers were 9amp. If you have the original spec batteries that will be a capacity of 160ah so that would be around 18 hours from completely flat to fully charged (it'll be less, batteries are never completely empty). Once charged the charger will revert to a trickle charge.

dan
 
sidepod said:
Right, as Dan says, there are two bits of electrical kit behind the fuse panel cowl (behind drivers seat).
One is a power relay that seems (I've never really got to the bottom of what it does) to supply the main control module. The power relay is fed from the main fuse panel below the steering wheel.
Both of these click loudly but not continuously.

I had a control module fail (now obsolete) so I opened it up and there is a power relay inside on the PCB. The point is it does make a loud click.
This relay essentially powers up the glow plug (I assume we're discussing a diesel heater here?) which runs for a time period (15 seconds?). The dosing pump then fires in fuel and away it goes. The heater does run for about 45 seconds before it goes into heat/blow mode. You'll hear the tone change.

Failure to start could also be a problem with the control panel in your photo. This basically puts power into the control cct of the control module.

I've been round this loop with mine (and many more) so happy to help with diagrams/advice etc.
It will take some methodical voltmeter action!

It could be the power relay at fault so bypassing/testing that would be a good place to start.

Pod.
Click to expand...
Hi Pod. Just started working on a default heater on our '93 T4. Green ligt comes on, fan starts spinning (both on heat-mode an fan-mode). I've re-soldered the control module so that should be fine. Not sure if I should se the red light come on?
Anyways; if I was a smart guy, where would I go next? Fuel pump, electrode?
THANKS!
 
I’d get under the van and check there is 12 v at the glow plug top. Voltmeter, red onnthe gkow plug top, black to van chassis.
If yes then whip the plug out and put a 12 v supply to it to check it heats up. 12v + to the connection at the top, 12v - to the body of the plug.
Be careful, if it’s working they get very hot.

Get back here and report once you’ve done this.

P.
 
Ooops my error. When checking for 12v at the glow plug, use the body of the glow plug as the earth not the van chassis.
 
sidepod said:
I’d get under the van and check there is 12 v at the glow plug top. Voltmeter, red onnthe gkow plug top, black to van chassis.
If yes then whip the plug out and put a 12 v supply to it to check it heats up. 12v + to the connection at the top, 12v - to the body of the plug.
Be careful, if it’s working they get very hot.

Get back here and report once you’ve done this.

P.
Click to expand...
Apparantly only 0.3-0.4 volts going to the plug..
 
That’s odd. Zero I could understand but a small amount is odd.

I’ll dig out the wiring diagrams tomorrow and refresh my memory how the glow plug is fed. It may be your control box is shot which isn’t good news as they’re obsolete.

Out of interest is your kitchen window seal ok?
Mine had a perished seal which let water leak down inside the B pillar trim which in turn wrecked the heater control unit.
I was lucky to find a replacement.
 
You were testing the plug with the heater switched on? Daft question I know but if it times out on a failed start then you won’t see voltage at the plug.
 
sidepod said:
You were testing the plug with the heater switched on? Daft question I know but if it times out on a failed start then you won’t see voltage at the plug.
Click to expand...
Yes, heater was switched on. Not sure about the window but I'll def. have a look. Took of the panel by the drivers seat to get a hold of the control unit.. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get a hold of a new (used) one here in EU if it turns out bad.. :)
 
Simon_vanlife said:
Yes, heater was switched on. Not sure about the window but I'll def. have a look. Took of the panel by the drivers seat to get a hold of the control unit.. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get a hold of a new (used) one here in EU if it turns out bad.. :)
Click to expand...
Well I hope so. The next thing to test is that you have power /run signal to the control box from the switch unit.
I’ll post a snap shot of the wiring diagram tomorrow.
 
Ok try this as a next step.
You basically need to trace the glow plug supply as you’ve indicated there is no supply at the plug.

The diagram attached shows the link from the control unit (B pillar, behind trim) to the glow plug via the temp switch inside the heater.

Check if you have 12v at pin 1 on the control unit.

Whilst you’re at it, check fuse 11 is good.

Have a read through the start up sequence description for a D2L unit just to make sure nothing else is causing it to fail. I can’t recall if a fuel pump fail drops out the glow plug supply etc.

BDA0E180-C7E2-4252-A9AA-356679809965.png
 
If you have no 12v at pin 1 then the next step is to check the start signal from the ventilation switch panel to the control unit.
This is a red wire. In the rear of the ventilation switch panel check there is 12v. You should also be able to trace this back to the control unit.

If this is good then the problem is inside the control unit.
 
Just checking, you do have healthy batteries? Less than 10.5v will not allow the heater to start.
 
sidepod said:
Just checking, you do have healthy batteries? Less than 10.5v will not allow the heater to start.
Click to expand...

Been quietly watching this discussion and was about to ask the same thing. You can hook up your Westy to the mains and try your heater as this will bypass any battery low voltage issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My thinking is a bad earth. The OP is seeing less than 0.5v at the glow plug.
 
mrcheesbrough said:
Been quietly watching this discussion and was about to ask the same thing. You can hook up your Westy to the mains and try your heater as this will bypass any battery low voltage issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Has been plugged on mains at all times while testing - as for the same reason.. :)

sidepod said:
My thinking is a bad earth. The OP is seeing less than 0.5v at the glow plug.
Click to expand...
I will check the other connections/wires in a couple of days and come back! :)
 
It should also be noticed than the heater hasn't been fired up in at least 10 years! Previous owner never used it...
 
Simon_vanlife said:
It should also be noticed than the heater hasn't been fired up in at least 10 years! Previous owner never used it...
Click to expand...

Eek! Might benefit from a damn good service/refurb if you manage to get it going and all the ancillaries are in working order. Or it might be worth looking at retrofitting a more modern Eber as a direct replacement if you’ve a budget. Could be time to dig out the bed socks and extra sleeping bags.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
sidepod said:
If you have no 12v at pin 1 then the next step is to check the start signal from the ventilation switch panel to the control unit.
This is a red wire. In the rear of the ventilation switch panel check there is 12v. You should also be able to trace this back to the control unit.

If this is good then the problem is inside the control unit.
Click to expand...
No 12V at pin 1. Fuse inside the control unit was dead. Other fuses are good. Red wire? The only red wire from the control unit (pin 4 which has 12V) goes to the main fuse?
 
Simon_vanlife said:
No 12V at pin 1. Fuse inside the control unit was dead. Other fuses are good. Red wire? The only red wire from the control unit (pin 4 which has 12V) goes to the main fuse?
Click to expand...
Sorry I meant red wire from the switch panel over the sink to the control unit.
Check this live when you select Heat On.
If not then it could be the switch panel.
 
sidepod said:
Sorry I meant red wire from the switch panel over the sink to the control unit.
Check this live when you select Heat On.
If not then it could be the switch panel.
Click to expand...

So I rinsed a few more connections, resoldered others and out in a new fuse in the control unit. Start up cycle now seems to work; pump is going (and gas is flowing) and electrode is getting hot. No egnition though.. Not sure if the electrode sparks, will have to check that.. :)
 
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