Portable panel problems

Chunkymunky · May 22, 2020

Advice re solar please ! I have checked the search function prior to posting and got some useful info but need to be a bit more specific - sorry if I’ve missed a post that answers my question

I’m looking at getting a portable solar panel or suitcase panel. I don’t really want to be tied to using a semi permanent or Permanent solution of a panel on the van roof ( as much as I like the look of them ) as I want the panel for other uses too ( tent camping) and to maximise the roof’s weight for a roofbox.

Does any body else do this?
So the panels that I have seen come with the panel and a controller. However What is the best process for connecting the panel charger to the Cali leisure battery? Is it simply a case of opening the rear battery locker and hooking up via croc clips off the panel controller to the rear leisure battery or is there a more elegant/ safer/ easier solution? If I connect to one leisure battery , will it indirectly charge both in series or parallel? Can they be overcharged ( danger?), can I indirectly damage anything?

Also what would be the minimum output panel I would require to keep the Cali topped up for “ off grid “ ? I appreciate that is a “ piece of string” question, but I’m looking at trickle charging to keep the fridge going , lights at night, perhaps daily iPhone charging for festivals or several days off grid- nothing too heavy

Please go easy - I’m desperately wracking my brains to remember 1990 GCSE physics to recall watts and v over r or something etc !

Thanks

campandfly · May 22, 2020

Battery Tray Cables running from the Rear Leisure battery into the rear cupboard.
Put either an Anderson Connector or MC4 connectors on the end of the Tray cables.
Then if your portable solar panel has a controller you simply hook up to that when needed.
I would go for a 100watt panel

Chunkymunky · May 22, 2020

campandfly said:
Battery Tray Cables running from the Rear Leisure battery into the rear cupboard.
Put either an Anderson Connector or MC4 connectors on the end of the Tray cables.
Then if your portable solar panel has a controller you simply hook up to that when needed.
I would go for a 100watt panel

thank you!

California4x4 · May 22, 2020

Chunkymunky said:
thank you!

This is good advice. You could also connect to the battery under the front left seat. Again I would make a permanent connection with a trailing connector you can quickly connect to. That battery is linked to the one in the rear cupboard so both will be charged.

For multiple uses, I would consider a folding solar ‘blanket’ type solar panned array. It will be easier to carry around. Something fluke this.

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If it is only for the campervan you will use it, I modified my panel so I could mount it on the roof rails or on my roof box as required.

Chunkymunky · May 22, 2020

California4x4 said:
This is good advice. You could also connect to the battery under the front left seat. Again I would make a permanent connection with a trailing connector you can quickly connect to. That battery is linked to the one in the rear cupboard so both will be charged.

For multiple uses, I would consider a folding

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27424338...ox as required. [ATTACH=full]59626[/ATTACH]

http://

Thank you!
I think I’ve read one of your posts before about this panel-isn’t this the type with “ o” ring attachments ?
The majority of the use would be for the van, but may need it off several times a year., croc clipped to a separate leisure battery. However for the van I like the idea of using the roof rails or the box ( or bike rack if parked up)

I was keen to avoid messing with the front battery because of access, and info I’ve seen on the forum regarding the air bag light being effected.
If I directly connect to either front or back via the Anderson or mc4 connections, will I charge BOTH batteries or just the one I’ve connected to?
With the connectors , do I need to “ jump” to existing charging leads or can I come off the battery terminals

Chunkymunky · May 22, 2020

...sorry posted too quick !
Come off the battery terminals with ctek connectors ?

WelshGas · May 22, 2020

Chunkymunky said:
...sorry posted too quick !
Come off the battery terminals with ctek connectors ?

Both Leisure Batteries are wired in parallel. Charge one and you charge both.

Just wire to the +tve and -tve poles of your chosen battery.

One of these on the Leisure Battery, or similar.

1m Jump Lead 175amp Durite/Anderson Connector Battery Land Rover Defender | eBay

Durite 175amp Power Connector. One new RDX Jump Lead with Durite Power Conenctor (Anderson type). The original Copper welding cable jump leads the trade insist on! 25mm squared copper cable.

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The equivalent plug on the Solar Panel lead.

You could use lower rating connectors as it is just a solar panel you are connecting.Also an in-line fuse on the solar +tve lead.

campandfly · May 22, 2020

I have a preference for the Anderson SB50 Connectors usually grey in colour. They are rated at 50amps which is plenty and you need the 6mm Contacts which will need crimping or soldering. If crimping you will need a ratchet crimper or in our Aussie style I have used the back of my camping axe to flatten them in the bush.

If you have MC4's already attached to your solar panel its best to get exactly the same brand or you will have connection issues. That's why I prefer Andersons you don't have any voltage drops and are easy to connect and disconnect.

Chunkymunky · May 22, 2020

WelshGas said:
Both Leisure Batteries are wired in parallel. Charge one and you charge both.

Just wire to the +tve and -tve poles of your chosen battery.

One of these on the Leisure Battery, or similar.

1m Jump Lead 175amp Durite/Anderson Connector Battery Land Rover Defender | eBay

Durite 175amp Power Connector. One new RDX Jump Lead with Durite Power Conenctor (Anderson type). The original Copper welding cable jump leads the trade insist on! 25mm squared copper cable.

www.ebay.co.uk

The equivalent plug on the Solar Panel lead.

You could use lower rating connectors as it is just a solar panel you are connecting.Also an in-line fuse on the solar +tve lead.

Thank you gentlemen for all of your time this evening !
This is beginning to look a bit like a plan now!
Two more quick ones-to disconnect a single battery to get myself linked up, is it just negative off first then positive? I’ve only seen the post on changing Both batteries. I don’t need to mess with the second battery ?And Do I need a fuse after the solar controller and between the terminal ( in-line )
What can go wrong that I should be paying particular attention to ( other than burning the van down !)

Chunkymunky · May 22, 2020

You could use lower rating connectors as it is just a solar panel you are connecting.Also an in-line fuse on the solar +tve lead. [/QUOTE said:
Apologies WG- I didn’t notice the inline fuse comment!
Many thanks.

California4x4 · May 23, 2020

Chunkymunky said:
http://

Thank you!
I think I’ve read one of your posts before about this panel-isn’t this the type with “ o” ring attachments ?
The majority of the use would be for the van, but may need it off several times a year., croc clipped to a separate leisure battery. However for the van I like the idea of using the roof rails or the box ( or bike rack if parked up)

I was keen to avoid messing with the front battery because of access, and info I’ve seen on the forum regarding the air bag light being effected.
If I directly connect to either front or back via the Anderson or mc4 connections, will I charge BOTH batteries or just the one I’ve connected to?
With the connectors , do I need to “ jump” to existing charging leads or can I come off the battery terminals

The panel I have came from @Roger Donoghue with aluminium brackets bonded to it. Mounting pins were fixed to the box to allow it to use the same mounting holes. This could be achieved with the ‘o-ring’ type panels as you mention.

WelshGas · May 23, 2020

Just remember, when you disconnect the +tve lead it is still live as it is connected to the other battery.

Chunkymunky · May 23, 2020

Thanks again gentlemen
I have followed several posts and looked with interest at Roger’s panels , especially the roof track mounted one-I like how you have adapted the roof box Cali 4x4! It wasn’t at all what I had considered
I will probably need freestanding ability For the panel (in a field or next to a tent) more than use for the Cali in reality thus wanted to make as all round a flexible solution as possible
I will report back on my project...

Chunkymunky · May 23, 2020

California4x4 said:
The panel I have came from @Roger Donoghue with aluminium brackets bonded to it. Mounting pins were fixed to the box to allow it to use the same mounting holes. This could be achieved with the ‘o-ring’ type panels as you mention.

View attachment 59654 View attachment 59655 View attachment 59653

Quick one Cali 4x4- that big box- is that a Thule 900?I have the 900 motion.its a monster. How close are you to maxing the roof limit with the box, panel and roof bars ? Cheers

California4x4 · May 23, 2020

Chunkymunky said:
Quick one Cali 4x4- that big box- is that a Thule 900?I have the 900 motion.its a monster. How close are you to maxing the roof limit with the box, panel and roof bars ? Cheers

I suspect I have been over the recommended weight. I have the Thule Motion XT Alpine which weighs 16kg. The roof bars are not that heavy and the panel is negligible, say 5kg. I have operated and slept in the roof with the box full of snowboarding and ice climbing gear, I would estimate at least 30-50kg in there. So all up 50-70Kg total I would estimate.

when it was very windy I dropped the roof as I figured, the loads could start getting abnormally challenging