Roof fully open, but won’t close

dlewisjo

dlewisjo

Messages
27
Location
Nottingham
Vehicle
T5 SE 174
Hi,

My roof is fully open, and the roof open icon in the control unit indicates it’s open - so working as expected. However, when I try to close the roof, it wont move, the roof won’t lower. I checked the VW diagnostic hidden menu, and it shows a fault code of 1000. I tried to delete it by pressing the centre of the control unit button, but it just goes back to the previous menu.

I’ve searched the forum for similar issues, which all point to the issue being the roof sensors. However, all the posts I came across state their roof was closed, and they couldn’t open the roof, so the opposite to my situation - so not sure if the roof sensors are still the cause of the issue for me.

Am I correct in saying it doesn’t matter if your roof is open or closed, fault code 1000 means roof sensors, and by replacing them will remove the fault code, and in my case, I will then be able to lower my roof?
 
Hi, I don’t have an answer for you I’m afraid. But, if you add the type of Cali you’re running in your profile, this generally helps to generate responses from forum members with similar vans. I hope you get a resolution soon!
 
Edit: maybe in a 2008 cali it is different but who knows, it might help (And if not for you, then for someone else ;))

Clearly an annoying situation and I don't know whether the following will help, but you can try it.
1706900539716.jpeg

Remove and replace those 4 fuses from the box on drivers side.
Or, picture below: remove and replace (under seat). Mainly reset screen.

1706900650605.jpeg
 
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Edit: maybe in a 2008 cali it is different but who knows, it might help (And if not for you, then for someone else ;))

Clearly an annoying situation and I don't know whether the following will help, but you can try it.
View attachment 118695

Remove and replace those 4 fuses from the box on drivers side.
Or, picture below: remove and replace (under seat). Mainly reset screen.

View attachment 118696
I'm afraid that is for the T6.1, not the T5. Totally different Control Panel.
 
Hi,

My roof is fully open, and the roof open icon in the control unit indicates it’s open - so working as expected. However, when I try to close the roof, it wont move, the roof won’t lower. I checked the VW diagnostic hidden menu, and it shows a fault code of 1000. I tried to delete it by pressing the centre of the control unit button, but it just goes back to the previous menu.

I’ve searched the forum for similar issues, which all point to the issue being the roof sensors. However, all the posts I came across state their roof was closed, and they couldn’t open the roof, so the opposite to my situation - so not sure if the roof sensors are still the cause of the issue for me.

Am I correct in saying it doesn’t matter if your roof is open or closed, fault code 1000 means roof sensors, and by replacing them will remove the fault code, and in my case, I will then be able to lower my roof?
Short answer Yes.
Sometimes they fail in the Open position and then you have to use the Manual Lowering as described in the Handbook to get the roof down so you can drive.
You can retry the Diagnostics with the engine running. You might be able to clear the codes but then you have the problem of getting the roof Open to change the sensors.
If you are able to change the sensors yourself then you could do 1 at a time and check if the Diagnostic Code can be cleared after each replacement to save doing all 4 before checking.
There is a write up in the Resources section of the Forum for VIP members, written by @Lambeth Cali , and a Post on the Forum with Part Numbers etc:, but I cannot find it at present.
 
Yes I’m happy to change the roof sensors. The van is on the drive, so intend to keep the roof up until I can fix the issue. Hopefully, replacing the sensors one by one, and trying to close the roof after changing each one. Just waiting for the sensors to arrive in the post.
 
I'm afraid that is for the T6.1, not the T5. Totally different Control Panel.
correct, My post crossed that of the OP who reported that it is about a 2008 cali (It initially did not say that it was a 2008 cali, that's why) That's why I also posted an edit in front and indicated that it might not be for them .It might help anyone else who uses the search function and is standing somewhere with their electronic-hydraulic roof open. So your answer is surely applicable to the OP because it is an older van with probably -and rather logically- worn out elements after all this time.
 
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Hi,

My roof is fully open, and the roof open icon in the control unit indicates it’s open - so working as expected. However, when I try to close the roof, it wont move, the roof won’t lower. I checked the VW diagnostic hidden menu, and it shows a fault code of 1000. I tried to delete it by pressing the centre of the control unit button, but it just goes back to the previous menu.

I’ve searched the forum for similar issues, which all point to the issue being the roof sensors. However, all the posts I came across state their roof was closed, and they couldn’t open the roof, so the opposite to my situation - so not sure if the roof sensors are still the cause of the issue for me.

Am I correct in saying it doesn’t matter if your roof is open or closed, fault code 1000 means roof sensors, and by replacing them will remove the fault code, and in my case, I will then be able to lower my roof?
So to clear the fault codes you need to press and hold the return arrow for 5+ secs. The icon is likely to actually be a half open roof and flashing with the roof fault.

Personally I would carefully replace the sensors one by one, but never close the roof fully until they are all replaced. One of the biggest issues with the sensor replacement is when the system fails down and locked and then you have to manually power the roof pump directly. You might have one sensor that has failed, but since they are all likely to have degraded, i would hate for another one to fail when you lower the roof.

The way the Roof ECU (not the control panel) works is to stop any roof movement if it senses an issue with any of the sensors, so doing it one by one as to not mix up the front vs rear sensors is sensible, the wire colours are all the same regardless of sensor location so can get mixed up.

Until you replace the all faulty sensor(s) you won't be able to clear the fault code nor get roof movement anyway.

A
 
I tried again to clear the fault code, by pressing and holding the bottom right button. It wasn’t until I repeated the same process, but with the key in the ignition that the fault code cleared. So the fault code has now gone.

I tried to lower the roof, but only the drivers side moves about 2cm, then I just hear the motor going, but no movement of the roof, so my roof is slightly drooped towards the drivers side and still stuck open.

Would the fact that there is no movement on the passenger side indicate those sensors are faulty ?

Also, those who have had faulty sensor codes, when you pressed the button on the control panel, could you hear you roof motor running ? I ask because my assumption was the roof motor shouldn’t run if the sensors are faulty.
 
I tried again to clear the fault code, by pressing and holding the bottom right button. It wasn’t until I repeated the same process, but with the key in the ignition that the fault code cleared. So the fault code has now gone.

I tried to lower the roof, but only the drivers side moves about 2cm, then I just hear the motor going, but no movement of the roof, so my roof is slightly drooped towards the drivers side and still stuck open.

Would the fact that there is no movement on the passenger side indicate those sensors are faulty ?

Also, those who have had faulty sensor codes, when you pressed the button on the control panel, could you hear you roof motor running ? I ask because my assumption was the roof motor shouldn’t run if the sensors are faulty.
So the ECU and Pump have no independent electric side to side control. There are left and right hydraulic circuits, but they operate as one, as in there is only one pump and no electrical side to side control. There are valves and pressure limiting devices in the pump that mean the left and right have a degree of independence, but in reality this is to allow them to pressurise independently. If something goes wrong in the pump or in the ram / pipes then it is possible for one side to fail, but normally this is dropping.

If the pump is operating then the system is sensing valid sensors signals at that point, not to say that there isn't a sensor issue. The pump will only run for so long before it times out if it doesn't sense a change in the sensors and then it will trigger a fault. This can happen for numerous reasons.

If clear the fault, raise the roof and you see the roof symbol go from half open to fully open, then the roof ECU is sensing the open sensors, if you then start to drop the roof you should see the icon go to half open again tis would suggest the sensors are being sensed.

If this is the case, I would check the oil level of the roof system.

Another option could be to drop the roof manually using the pressure release screw (lots of threads on how to do this) - re-tighten the screw, reset the panel and then try to open the roof and see if the pump operates correctly. My gut feel is this is likely to be hydraulic related, hopefully low oil, but never say never, swapping the sensors isn't a bad idea if you are going to get them anyway, but not sure it will fix it, but worth doing before you strip out the hydraulics.

A
 
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I’ve visual checked the sensors and they look good, no obvious breaks or corrosion.

Photos attached, including video clip of trying to close the roof which doesn’t work and roof stays open, just slightly goes down on the drivers side, and I get the flashing roof open icon. You can hear the pump motor running.

I then remove the key from the ignition, put the key back in the ignition as the control unit says I have to, in order to open the roof. I then raise the roof to remove the slightly sagging drivers side, and I get the tick next to the open icon on the control panel. Indicating the roof is fully open and the canvas taught which it is.

I can repeat the above, but the same thing happens every time. I’ve also tried it with the engine running. The original fault code of 1000 hasn’t come back. I have the van plugged into the mains, but I doubt that has any impact.

So my roof remains fully open.

Does this indicate fluid low or possible leak, such that I need to get the pump out and check the oil level ?

Looking to explore everything before I have to concede and turn the screw of death to manual lower the roof.

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7F124997-6BA4-4A62-A0C7-340314492EA6.jpeg

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Not sure how to upload the video, the post only allows me to upload photos from my phone

CC0D2357-5201-419B-A66C-4B39376CAEF6.jpeg
 
Cheers #WelshGas

More investigation. I removed the control unit to see if there was any fluid leakage. But I couldn’t see any.

I checked the sensors, no physical damage, cracks or water ingress.

What I did notice, and this could be a fluid leak, is a soft gooey substances all over the hydraulic cable and surrounding area on the passenger side. The drivers side was clean. This could be why the drivers side opens/closes, albeit with limited movement. Whereas the passenger side doesn’t move at all

E110692D-E2D0-47C8-870A-2EFD6D5B1D1A.jpeg

A4F82E19-3236-4DEE-B68E-8789003D0BBF.jpeg

A3E3426C-7043-4E02-8736-552F9AA3DAFF.jpeg

9286F5C1-20F0-4E7D-9292-442978A51276.jpeg

F3141F8B-5ED1-44E3-A0D4-D187F4AA8E80.jpeg
 
Cheers #WelshGas

More investigation. I removed the control unit to see if there was any fluid leakage. But I couldn’t see any.

I checked the sensors, no physical damage, cracks or water ingress.

What I did notice, and this could be a fluid leak, is a soft gooey substances all over the hydraulic cable and surrounding area on the passenger side. The drivers side was clean. This could be why the drivers side opens/closes, albeit with limited movement. Whereas the passenger side doesn’t move at all

View attachment 118738

View attachment 118739

View attachment 118740

View attachment 118741

View attachment 118742
That does look as if there could be a leak, but I cannot understand w hy both sides will not come down . Can you check the fluid level?
 
I’ve removed the control unit, panel etc, to get to the pump to check the level. However, I’m not sure on the next steps, the posts I’ve been using states undo the four screws to release the metal plate, and then you can access the pump. However, I don’t see the metal plate and four screws, I don’t even see the bleed screw.

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/leaking-oil-behind-control-panel-of-2008-t5.19984/#post-236525

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/how-to-fill-hydraulic-reservoir-for-roof-pump.41813/

As you can see from he picture there is a block of yellow form, which is held in by a plastic strip. I unscrewed 2 screws holding the plastic strip in place, but it still doesn’t come out. Not sure how you get that out, see green arrow in the picture.

I’m also assuming the bleed screw is underneath the form where I put the red dot.

Help on the next step appreciated

DB39DE01-8107-4AFD-95C0-1078ABC78EF8.jpeg
 
I’ve removed the control unit, panel etc, to get to the pump to check the level. However, I’m not sure on the next steps, the posts I’ve been using states undo the four screws to release the metal plate, and then you can access the pump. However, I don’t see the metal plate and four screws, I don’t even see the bleed screw.

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/leaking-oil-behind-control-panel-of-2008-t5.19984/#post-236525

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/how-to-fill-hydraulic-reservoir-for-roof-pump.41813/

As you can see from he picture there is a block of yellow form, which is held in by a plastic strip. I unscrewed 2 screws holding the plastic strip in place, but it still doesn’t come out. Not sure how you get that out, see green arrow in the picture.

I’m also assuming the bleed screw is underneath the form where I put the red dot.

Help on the next step appreciated

View attachment 118753
Hi
From what I recall people have had to cut away the foam to get at the pump. Sure I’ve previously read that.

Just a hunch but it may not be sensors.
 
I’ve removed the control unit, panel etc, to get to the pump to check the level. However, I’m not sure on the next steps, the posts I’ve been using states undo the four screws to release the metal plate, and then you can access the pump. However, I don’t see the metal plate and four screws, I don’t even see the bleed screw.

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/leaking-oil-behind-control-panel-of-2008-t5.19984/#post-236525

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/how-to-fill-hydraulic-reservoir-for-roof-pump.41813/

As you can see from he picture there is a block of yellow form, which is held in by a plastic strip. I unscrewed 2 screws holding the plastic strip in place, but it still doesn’t come out. Not sure how you get that out, see green arrow in the picture.

I’m also assuming the bleed screw is underneath the form where I put the red dot.

Help on the next step appreciated

View attachment 118753
See Post 3

 
Hi
From what I recall people have had to cut away the foam to get at the pump. Sure I’ve previously read that.

Just a hunch but it may not be sensors.

That’s what I thought I might have to do, but even if I cut the foam away, I think the plastic strip holding 5h3 foam block will be in the way when I try to get the pump out.

I’m suspecting the issue is a leak in the RAM or pipe on the passenger side, given that side won’t move.

I’m hoping to get to the pump, and if the oil level is low due to the suspected leak, I can still add some more oil, so I can close the roof.
 
May be useful
 
May be useful
Cheers, the post talks about the oil to get, but not how to remove the foam block and black plastic strip to access the pump.

I can only assume there are more screws hidden somewhere holding the plastic strip in place.
 
Try these links
 
Cheers, the post talks about the oil to get, but not how to remove the foam block and black plastic strip to access the pump.

I can only assume there are more screws hidden somewhere holding the plastic strip in place.
As in my post above.
Remove sunvisors and headliner drops sufficiently to remove plastic bracket screws and foam?

Screenshot 2024-02-04 at 08.42.58.jpg
 
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