Scottish Winter road trip and beyond to Europe! (Title edit Feb 24)

[mcdonaldneal.]

I slept upstairs again last night. -3 is starting to feel quite mild!

We went to find the promised showers in the community centre. The sign said to knock on the door of the house opposite for the key, which was cute. Anyway, the showers were out of action as the pipes were frozen. Good job I’d had a strip wash in the van, but Graham wasn’t happy!

I was glad also that I had filled up the water tank last night because the tap at the harbour was now frozen too. We did find another and so I topped off before venturing further beyond civilisation. Annoyingly, I reversed over my funnel leaving the parking space but I’ll try to repair it later.

We ticked off the remaining sights of Helmsdale: the war memorial (imposing), the emigrants memorial (sobering) and the plaque commemorating when they knocked down the castle to build a new road bridge in the ‘70’s (amusing and sad)!

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

We then headed directly North. It was 40miles to Melvich on the coast but the road is single track, it hadn’t been gritted and was very icy indeed, so we made slow and careful progress. Actually, we had just started along it and a local in a 4wd just shook his head as we passed. Encouraging.

We both have all-season tyres and I think that is key. Graham has 2wd and I am 4wd but neither of us lost grip at all (except in some uncleared passing places) and it felt safe. I have mats for grip, a shovel and a rope in the back for an emergency.

The day was cold and bright and the scenery was STUNNING. The frost on the landscape, the sun on the snowy mountains. Only a handful of other vehicles in 40miles. We felt very lucky.

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

On went the road.

The sheep seem a spectacularly stupid type. Normally they make some effort to move out of the way of a vehicle. These buggers, no chance. Also saw a few red deer. Terrible picture, but there are five stags on the skyline.

More scenery.

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

By lunchtime we’d got just over half way to Melvich (mostly because I kept stopping for photos!)

We stopped at Forsinard Floes, which is a virtually unique area of blanket bog, mosses floating in a… well, bog.

All frozen solid of course, but you get the idea. Also, the prettiest train station you could wish for. Platform 1 for trains South to Inverness!

The area is partly a bird reserve and there was a boardwalk over the bog to a fantastic viewing platform. Not many birds out and about though.

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

I don’t think we’ve done any of the official NC500 so far. Just goes to show, there’s a lot more to the N of Scotland than that!

Nearly there though, just had to follow the iced up Strath Halladale river until it hit the sea at Melvich. We then wound our way down an overgrown single track to an unlikely car park at the monument to the Portskerra fishermen who lost their lives in sight of shore in 3 incidents. There are two tiny harbours (one disused) and we walked a loop but Medo decided to stay in the van!

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

The sun was starting to set now (2:30pm!) so we walked back to the vans, admired the views out to Orkney and Dunnet Head (and Dounreay nuclear power station!) and checked out a small car park with a spectacular view. I was happy to stop there but Graham was keen for the shower he had missed this morning and so he drove 10 twisty miles to a campsite in Bettyhill. Which was, you guessed it, shut. So he came back to join me and we made dinner in the vans. My veggie chilli this time, with spiced paneer cheese. Everything tastes delicious with views like these!!
Oh, and I repaired my funnel with insulating tape that was left over from the leisure battery replacement!

 

[Jenny H]

Wow what a trip! How amazing - Id love to take my cat with me but guess you have to start getting them used to it from an early age - loving reading your blog - we're planning our road trip to Scotland next June but only doing Skye & Mull as short on time - looks stunning in this weather too.

 

[Wannabecamperman]

I’m definitely not taking the most direct route. Next I cut across Perthshire from Pitlochry to Glenshee, up to the ski centre at the pass. Stopped for some glamour shots of Moana. Medo did, in fact do a little exploring in the snow!

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I used to ski the ''Tiger'' at Glenshee some years ago, when snow permitted.

Loving your blog - very inspirational, as others have said. The sense of desolation from the fabulous pictures there in winter is quite something.

Very pretty cat, btw!

 

[Norfolk Jim]

Thanks to the farmer, I was up early this morning. So, I made breakfast, filled a flask with strong coffee, washed my face and set off up the road at 8:30.
I’ve posted travelling threads on TheSamba for years, and one of their rules is you can only upload pictures to the gallery if they have a VW in them (or are VW related)! I can’t kick the habit, so I’m afraid most of my pics will have Moana in. Some are from the driver’s seat, but on a deserted road with the engine off and keys out, parked. Naturally. Or from the passenger seat, leaning over (for composition).
There hadn’t been a great deal of snow, but you can see it is pretty cold!

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I know exaclty where you stopped, just past a large counrty house up that road. Lovely area. I know it too well as we stopped at Lochernhead Fish Farm CL end of September and went for a nice walk across back of village and up that road ( I reckognise the old hall behind the road sign) past the waterfall when my wife slipped on the verge and fell over. She banger her hip, knee and side of her head and it was pi55ing down and she fainted!!!! No one around so my survival skills kicked in and got her wrapped up in survival bag.... when she came round someone arrived and stayed with her while I ran!! back the 2.5 miles and got camper. She's a stubborn nurse and said she felt fine so wehn then carried on to Ballater but in the end paid a visit to Aberdeen A&E who I couldn't praise enough. At 64 she's lucky nothing broken but soft tissue damage and 4 weeks of intense physio...........................

 

[SpuffingtonMe]

Please keep this coming. I know it's time-consuming to post everything up, but it's great reading/viewing. I've done the NW side of the NC500 2-3 times now in various vehicles (Hymer & Concorde) and Skye in the Cali Ocean this January with similar weather.

I've had some superb trips and very jealous of you getting up there now, but living vicariously through your posts. Thank you!

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

Thanks for all the comments, much appreciated!

Last night was fairly peaceful, as we were a little way from the road. I don’t think the two early morning idiots who blared their horns as they went past disturbed us as much as they think they did! Nice.

Actually almost everyone we have met has been super nice, friendly and interested. I know the number of campers on the NC500 in the summer must be a pain but folk seem to realise it is good for the communities and brings business. The infrastructure is catching up now, with a lot more good sized lay-bys/car parks etc.


it was a spectacular spot with great views. I was scraping frost off the insulated windscreen cover though!
We drove half a mile back the way to the public toilets once we got going (they are in the background behind my overnight oats!)

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

The sun struggled above the horizon at about 8:30/9am and the light was magical, especially on the snowy mountains in the distant west. Needless to say, still pretty cold (-4/5c)

 

[Corradobrit]

I always thought Scotland had the most beautiful scenery and you're just proving it. Spectacular vistas

 

[Velma's Dad]

Great thread and some glorious pics, well done! We've just got back this evening from a few days in Cromarty and Sutherland in our van. A trip with a purpose - marshalling on the LE JOG historic car rally. The Cali makes a brilliant marshalling vehicle, means we can grab a couple of hours' kip at the side of the road before scooting off for duty to the next timing point. Then while waiting for the cars to come through the parking heater keeps us snug. We just have all-season tyres not winters, a good compromise but limited by our van being 2WD only.

Early hours of yesterday morning saw us very nearly got caught out - brief rise in temp with a rain shower onto a little (ungritted) rural road above Brora. Instant ice rink. We somehow managed to find enough traction to get back down off the hill.

First leg back homewards down the A9 yesterday the roof kept throwing me pings and error messages so that's a job for tomorrow, fingers crossed just a control panel issue but we'll see.

Such a fantastic all-singing, all-round all-season vehicle.

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

I can’t resist a few glamour shots of the van(s)! I think these were at (or near) Tongue. It’s a shame they’re so filthy, absolutely caked in salt! They’ll both be deserving a very good wash once they get home!!

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

Great thread and some glorious pics, well done! We've just got back this evening from a few days in Cromarty and Sutherland in our van. A trip with a purpose - marshalling on the LE JOG historic car rally. The Cali makes a brilliant marshalling vehicle, means we can grab a couple of hours' kip at the side of the road before scooting off for duty to the next timing point. Then while waiting for the cars to come through the parking heater keeps us snug. We just have all-season tyres not winters, a good compromise but limited by our van being 2WD only.

Early hours of yesterday morning saw us very nearly got caught out - brief rise in temp with a rain shower onto a little (ungritted) rural road above Brora. Instant ice rink. We somehow managed to find enough traction to get back down off the hill.

First leg back homewards down the A9 yesterday the roof kept throwing me pings and error messages so that's a job for tomorrow, fingers crossed just a control panel issue but we'll see.

Such a fantastic all-singing, all-round all-season vehicle.

Wow! That does sound incredible (and a bit hairy!!) Classic VWs are my (other) passion, so your trip sounds like heaven!

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

The actual scenery is miles better than any camper though, so as we progressed Westwards across the very top of Scotland there were plenty of photo stops. Much of the area is blanket bog (which we saw earlier) and the old road (snowy track in the pictures) was built by laying it on bundles of heather to kind of ‘float’ on the bog. Amazing!

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

There are many, many incredible beaches along the NC500 route. We stopped to have a quick look at Rispond beach. As you see, we had it to ourselves, although there was evidence of visitors in the sand. Some barefoot prints too, so someone was brave if they had a swim!!

I with we had longer to explore some of these gems, but we are on a fairly tight timeline and the roads don’t allow speedy driving (even when they’re not covered in ice and snow!) We managed about 130miles today and we were driving pretty much from 8:30-4pm!

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

Graham was keen to get cracking and put some miles under our belts, but I made him stop again just before Durness at the magnificent Smoo cave. Hidden from the road, there is easy access down and the lovely sea inlet leads to an impressive cave with a waterfall. Don’t ask me why the tractor tyre is there! Hopefully it wasn’t pushed from the top road!!

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

Thanks to my delays and side quests, of course it was getting dark as we headed South(ish) towards Ullapool. No time to stop and admire the sights of Kylescu bridge, Suilven, Stac Pollaidh and many others. Also Graham was running low on fuel and had an oil warning light on, so we hurried to Ullapool. I took the chance at the garage to take on water and fill my washer bottle which has been working overtime with the salt.

We have found a spectacular lay-by, perched above Corrieshalloch gorge. Sadly, the wind has got up to 30mph plus and the weather looks to turn bad tomorrow, so any pictures might have a different feel!

Haven’t decided on a route, and Graham is leaving for home, but I feel the ‘Bealach na Ba’ calling me…

 

[66tim99]

Wonderful photos, fabulous California, beautiful cat, inspiring trip. Thank you for the best opening thread I’ve seen on any forum.
Tremendous!
A question please: what was the lowest air temperature and highest level you turned your van heating up to?

 

[ThomasHJ]

I agree with what has been mentioned above; lovely pictures of both the scenery and your vans. Some of those photos with both your vans in it could be used in a VW California brochure. The images of the Scottish landscapes make me want to go there. Seems like you've had quite some sun as well. Thanks for sharing.

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

Wonderful photos, fabulous California, beautiful cat, inspiring trip. Thank you for the best opening thread I’ve seen on any forum.
Tremendous!
A question please: what was the lowest air temperature and highest level you turned your van heating up to?

Thank you, that’s very kind. I’ve enjoyed posting the thread, it acts like a diary for me as there’s too much happening to remember it all! Also it’s an incentive to keep an eye out for photo opportunities, which I love and to actually stop and take the picture!
Lowest air temp was -11.6c. Max heating was 4/10! Actually it was warmer with the roof down and -11 than in the top bed in -2. Tempting to consider topside insulation…
Mostly heating at 2/10 which is amazing. I left it at 1/10 overnight last night and I was too warm-an extremely windy 1-2c last night.

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

As you’ll see from the pictures, we had a spectacular camping spot! A very quiet road and no-one else to bother us. The wind though, was ridiculous! The forecast said gusts of 30mph+ but I’m guessing it was more on the very exposed spot. We both had our roofs down and the van was really rocking in the wind. Graham said his top was lifting and banging a bit and so before dawn he turned the van to face the wind which he said was much quieter! (I had parked tail to the wind as I foolishly thought I might get the top up to sleep!)

Anyway, Graham left for Aberdeen before first light and I started on the road to Gairloch. The scenery is much more ‘West coast’ now, with mountains, lochs and islands. Still some red deer to see and I actually got a pic of one dashing over the road in front!

 

[mcdonaldneal.]

Many of you will have heard of Gruinard Island, where the MOD released anthrax spores to test it as a biological weapon (rendering it uninhabitable for decades!)

It sits in pretty Gruinard Bay which has some lovely beaches. I’ve included the parking sign so you can see how Highland Region Council are trying to manage the need for camp spots. Pretty reasonable if you ask me.

I’ve lost track but I think the other pics are Aultbea?



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