Split lower kitchen cupboard runner

[Ken M]

Has anyone experienced a split lower runner for the kitchen cupboard? What was the fix - a creative repair or replacement with a readily available alternative runner or a visit to a VW dealership?

Per the photo below the runner has cracked and no longer holds the kitchen cupboard firmly in place. Not a big issue, but does rattle a fair bit.

 

[WelshGas]

Has anyone experienced a split lower runner for the kitchen cupboard? What was the fix - a creative repair or replacement with a readily available alternative runner or a visit to a VW dealership?

Per the photo below the runner has cracked and no longer holds the kitchen cupboard firmly in place. Not a big issue, but does rattle a fair bit.


View attachment 34390

Part 38

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_singl.../068/subcategory/68000/part_id/3707519/lang/e

https://www.oemvwshop.com/7E7068095-guide-rail-p1024661/

 

[Ken M]

Thanks WG. Some good resources in those links that I have now book marked, although not cheap.

 

[WelshGas]

Part 38

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_singl.../068/subcategory/68000/part_id/3707519/lang/e

https://www.oemvwshop.com/7E7068095-guide-rail-p1024661/

Too True.

 

[briwy]

82 euros for a bit of plastic I'm sure a DIY store would have something to do the job.

 

[JunglieD]

LLLParts

Also here if anyone is interested - still an expensive piece of plastic though ~£10 cheaper than main dealer parts dept.

 

[JunglieD]

Question for you @WelshGas or @kenm if you’re able to help. I too have a split lower kitchen guide/runner and have the replacement inbound in the next couple of days. I know they’re supposed to click into place when pulled towards you with a little force. Mine has been glued/siliconed in place until now by the prior owner so I’m cleaning up in preparation for fitting of the new replacement (hence minging flakey bits!). I’m also unsure of how the new one should be fitted because this one has been bodged. My question is for fitting the new one... Should it:

A) Clip into place over the metal cupboard frame (like in the first photo)

B) Clip into place below the top metal cupboard frame (like in the second photo)

Answers gratefully received.

 

[WelshGas]

Question for you @WelshGas or @kenm if you’re able to help. I too have a split lower kitchen guide/runner and have the replacement inbound in the next couple of days. I know they’re supposed to click into place when pulled towards you with a little force. Mine has been glued/siliconed in place until now by the prior owner so I’m cleaning up in preparation for fitting of the new replacement (hence minging flakey bits!). I’m also unsure of how the new one should be fitted because this one has been bodged. My question is for fitting the new one... Should it:

A) Clip into place over the metal cupboard frame (like in the first photo)

B) Clip into place below the top metal cupboard frame (like in the second photo)

Answers gratefully received.

I think it’s No 1, but can’t confirm for a few days.

 

[JunglieD]

I think it’s No 1, but can’t confirm for a few days.

Thanks - that’s my gut feeling too. This one had been glued into ‘position 2’ which, to be fair, had worked fairly well until the glue started to come away. Will clean up properly and fit it in the OEM manner. If you’re able to confirm when back with your Cali - that would be great, thank you.

 

[Drpps]

Mine is like picture 2 although it too is split but fortunately not along its whole length. The ready supply of cork (who'd have thought) is used to slightly wedge the front lip of the plastic open which helps it maintain purchase, but because it is flexible still allows it to be removed. (I had to replace the door hangers) It clips in place very positively if set correctly.
Here is a photo from a previous thread which I think confirms it. Neither door actually rests on the base of the channel as the weight is taken by the upper door hanger/sliders it just guides it along. It think it would catch on the bottom of the door in position 1.

Kitchen cupboard door rattle

Hi Everyone I've got a very annoying tizz coming from my left hand kitchen cupboard door. I have searched on here but can't find any reference to anyone actually removing a cupboard door at all. Does anyone know how this can be done? I just want to check for play, loose things etc etc. I have...

vwcaliforniaclub.com

 

[JunglieD]

Mine is like picture 2 although it too is split but fortunately not along its whole length. The ready supply of cork (who'd have thought) is used to slightly wedge the front lip of the plastic open which helps it maintain purchase, but because it is flexible still allows it to be removed. (I had to replace the door hangers) It clips in place very positively if set correctly.
Here is a photo from a previous thread which I think confirms it. Neither door actually rests on the base of the channel as the weight is taken by the upper door hanger/sliders it just guides it along. It think it would catch on the bottom of the door in position 1.

Kitchen cupboard door rattle

Hi Everyone I've got a very annoying tizz coming from my left hand kitchen cupboard door. I have searched on here but can't find any reference to anyone actually removing a cupboard door at all. Does anyone know how this can be done? I just want to check for play, loose things etc etc. I have...

vwcaliforniaclub.com

That’s really interesting, thanks. Are you saying that beneath the metal frame ‘lip’ there is an abundance of cork for the plastic part to get purchase onto? Hope I’ve not inadvertently dug it out while removing silicone.....

 

[WelshGas]

That’s really interesting, thanks. Are you saying that beneath the metal frame ‘lip’ there is an abundance of cork for the plastic part to get purchase onto? Hope I’ve not inadvertently dug it out while removing silicone.....

Found this on Google. The insert seems to be on top so that the doors run on the plastic.

 

[ThomasHJ]

Just went out to the van to take a picture for you. Hope this helps. The first photo is taken from above and the second photo is taken from the front. Stuff looks dirty when you use high resolution close-ups ;-)

 

[Drpps]

That’s really interesting, thanks. Are you saying that beneath the metal frame ‘lip’ there is an abundance of cork for the plastic part to get purchase onto? Hope I’ve not inadvertently dug it out while removing silicone.....

No you haven't dug anything. Cork is my addition. A regular supply of cork passes through the Cali....

@ThomasHJ
Everything looks filthy! Home office, muddy walks, bikes, children...... I promise it isn't always like this!
Anyway @JunglieD this is what mine looks like and how it fits together

runner pulled out. cracked but not fully split lip. this goes under the silver metal section.



Silver metal section of cupboard at front edge. white plastic behind. There isn't enough clearance under the front of the bottom door for it to be above. Cork-part one, holds the plastic runner against the bottom.


I've put a sliver of cork-part two,
between the fins of the plastic to hold it open. It helps it stay in place. The whole runner is on it last legs but hasn't cracked right through yet so it does the job.

 

[JunglieD]

Thank you for this help @Drpps @ThomasHJ @WelshGas - I've learned a few things thanks to the feedback:
i) the doors actually hang, so weight is held from the top
ii) the plastic runner goes under the metal cupboard front edge - like mine had been glued. It's hard to see because of the angles involved, but there must be a 'male' tongue under it to intersect with the 'female' groove of the plastic rail. I'll need to be particularly diligent to remove all glue residue underneath so the new part can connect well
iii) The lower rail is a dirt accumulation point for most owners and close up photos can be revealing!
iv) @Drpps may be justifying a wine-drinking habit in his pursuit of cork to stop rattles in the Cali...

 

[JunglieD]

Part just arrived - close up of the profile to help anyone in the future.

 

[KBR]

Just been reviewing this post as I have sustained a split runner. Firstly, holy crap, the price to replace is crazy.
Anyone who has replaced, was it easy to get the old one out and new one in or did you have to remove the sliding doors?
Also, the rear sliding door has a sort of vertical brush round the back that I guess is for easy running of the front one over the back. This has completely come away. I see there are some pegs on the brush part and can I think feel some holes in the back of the rear door. Can’t seem to push it back on though. Any ideas more elegant than some super glue to fix this as well?
Thanks in advance.

 

[JunglieD]

Just been reviewing this post as I have sustained a split runner. Firstly, holy crap, the price to replace is crazy.
Anyone who has replaced, was it easy to get the old one out and new one in or did you have to remove the sliding doors?
Also, the rear sliding door has a sort of vertical brush round the back that I guess is for easy running of the front one over the back. This has completely come away. I see there are some pegs on the brush part and can I think feel some holes in the back of the rear door. Can’t seem to push it back on though. Any ideas more elegant than some super glue to fix this as well?
Thanks in advance.

Yep - it’s expensive for what it is; I paid £72.86 inc P&P from LLLParts which was the best I could find. Ultimately it is an easy DIY job but made fiddler by the yoga moves required to fit. The sliding doors do need to come out which requires 2.5mm Allen key mini bolts x 8 to remove the hanging brackets at the rear. Make a note of the order for removal as you’ll need to reverse it to reinstall. Just give everything a good clean out before fitting the new guide/runner and you’ll be good to go. I didn’t examine the brushes part you mention but given that it’s completely hidden during use then perhaps superglue might be worth a go?

 

[KBR]

Yep - it’s expensive for what it is; I paid £72.86 inc P&P from LLLParts which was the best I could find. Ultimately it is an easy DIY job but made fiddler by the yoga moves required to fit. The sliding doors do need to come out which requires 2.5mm Allen key mini bolts x 8 to remove the hanging brackets at the rear. Make a note of the order for removal as you’ll need to reverse it to reinstall. Just give everything a good clean out before fitting the new guide/runner and you’ll be good to go. I didn’t examine the brushes part you mention but given that it’s completely hidden during use then perhaps superglue might be worth a go?

Thanks for this. I took another look and by pulling the runner towards me it clicked into place and the split does not seem to be an issue. That said I might when I have a minute take it apart and glue it to make sure it will remain ok. Next issue though! The sliding door on the left (the front sliding one) has loads of movement at the bottom. This results is constant loud rattling when driving. Is this expected? I’ve put a couple of pics on that show the movement (kind of). The other door has no movement and is flush against the runner. Any thoughts?

thanks in advance.

 

[JunglieD]

Thanks for this. I took another look and by pulling the runner towards me it clicked into place and the split does not seem to be an issue. That said I might when I have a minute take it apart and glue it to make sure it will remain ok. Next issue though! The sliding door on the left (the front sliding one) has loads of movement at the bottom. This results is constant loud rattling when driving. Is this expected? I’ve put a couple of pics on that show the movement (kind of). The other door has no movement and is flush against the runner. Any thoughts?

thanks in advance.

View attachment 74221

View attachment 74222

Sounds like you’ve saved a bit of ££ which is a good result. You may want to consider some Araldite-plastic to extend the life a bit.

You will have read/noticed that the doors ‘hang’ from the top brackets rather than sit in the guide channel as may seem logical. Accordingly you have the option to adjust how high/low they hang by making adjustments in the places pictured (4 x Allen key bolts across the 2 brackets suspending each door). If the rattle is driving you crazy then you may wish to loosen them off and lower the door by 1-2mm at a time until the amount of friction with the lower guide rail is sufficient to stop the rattle. Good luck!

 

[KBR]

Sounds like you’ve saved a bit of ££ which is a good result. You may want to consider some Araldite-plastic to extend the life a bit.

You will have read/noticed that the doors ‘hang’ from the top brackets rather than sit in the guide channel as may seem logical. Accordingly you have the option to adjust how high/low they hang by making adjustments in the places pictured (4 x Allen key bolts across the 2 brackets suspending each door). If the rattle is driving you crazy then you may wish to loosen them off and lower the door by 1-2mm at a time until the amount of friction with the lower guide rail is sufficient to stop the rattle. Good luck!View attachment 74227

Thanks for this. Really appreciate it. This will be a weekend job for me. I don’t remember seeing that black end cover on my doors, is that something you added? What’s it for?

 

[JunglieD]

Thanks for this. Really appreciate it. This will be a weekend job for me. I don’t remember seeing that black end cover on my doors, is that something you added? What’s it for?

No - I didn’t add it, so presume it’s original. It’s the rear of the ‘vertical brush’ if I recall correctly. Looks like pop rivets holding it in place. T6 Ocean. Good luck at the weekend

 

[KBR]

All done. Took all the shelves out, removed doors, took out runner. Gave it all a damn good clean. Then fixed runner with a bit of aradite although not sure how long that will hold. Put everything back and adjusted the doors, and I THINK they are better with less give. Next drive will see! Thanks again for the advice.

 

[Big Friendly Van]

This thread really helped me out. Purchased the part from LLL as above and although I didn't hear much from them during transit, it arrived without any problem.
Went to take off the kitchen sliding doors today but someone had left me a little present...rounded bolt. With the position of it I wasn't too interested in drilling this out if I could help it! Best left as a problem for another day.
Anyways, I moved the table out the way and managed to carefully slide the plastic runner in from the left to right without actually having to use a single tool. Also, it took much more force to click into place than I was expecting. All cleaned out, doors running smoothly and no more rattling.

 

[Mr B]

This thread really helped me out. Purchased the part from LLL as above and although I didn't hear much from them during transit, it arrived without any problem.
Went to take off the kitchen sliding doors today but someone had left me a little present...rounded bolt. With the position of it I wasn't too interested in drilling this out if I could help it! Best left as a problem for another day.
Anyways, I moved the table out the way and managed to carefully slide the plastic runner in from the left to right without actually having to use a single tool. Also, it took much more force to click into place than I was expecting. All cleaned out, doors running smoothly and no more rattling.

View attachment 94469

View attachment 94470

Thanks for this advice!!

I was about to take the doors off and noticed you said you can just slide it in and click it into place.

I can confirm you can

Bench seat back
Table Forward and up
Slide cupboards towards passenger chair
Slide out old one towards rear of van
Slide in new one towards front of van
Pull hard towards you and the rail clicks and locks in place

Literally saved me much time. Did it in 2 mins flat