sidepod
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The point being, give people knobs to twiddle and they’ll f*** it up!
CRS set them at the mid point as a base setting. I have reduced the fronts 2 clicks on compression and gone up 2 on rebound. On the rear, 3 clicks less compression and 1 up on rebound.So tell us what damping settings you chose and why?
I am suprised that no one (sorry if I missed it) talks about Rim and tire (american here) combinations. I have always found that the best way to improve comfort and road feel is less rim more rubber.Hi all,
Hoping for some advice. I have factory suspension on my 4motion with diff lock option. Although the ride isn't bad, I do go up tracks with potholes - I am looking to understand the pros/cons for options for improving the ride on the road and off the road... I am not interested in lowering or raising.
From what I have read, good options seem to be Koni active shocks (keeping existing springs), Bilstein shocks of some description (keeping existing springs). I spoke to my dealer who says that they only fit Eibach coil over kits - but I know nothing about these and I suspect they relate to lowering rather than comfort.
So for comfort purposes, does anyone have experience of the options above?
Many thanks,
To be fair to Steve at CRS performance, he knows his stuff. This is from setting up and racing VW’s for 35 years and specialising in suspension. I’m not saying he’s going to transform a new California and neither did he say he could. He said the best thing you could do with a new one is replace the standard damper with a Koni Active Damper and yes, to an untrained ear, he understands how they’re made and what makes them better. No knobs and buttons to play with. While VW make the best compromise for all conditions, they also have to compromise on price so it not hard to understand how, by making the right choices, you can improve the standard set up. Also, VW don’t change the suspension for UK vans (AFAIK) so finding dampers that handle British roads better should also improve the ride. That said, I won’t be changing the suspension on my MY23 Cali as I don’t think I’d get the bang for bucks. It would most probably be better but not enough to justify the cost. And the ARB’s are uprated already so you wouldn’t get improvements from changing those either.Perhaps you should be asking the question what is in the construction of the replacement damper that makes it superior to the stock unit?
Is the valving better? Does it have better shim stacks etc.
I guarantee the vendor won’t be able to tell you.
VW spend countless hours pounding around test tracks like MIRA and Nardo tweaking chassis setup, spring rates, suspension geometry etc.
In the end they settle on the best compromise for all conditions.
The fact that people think they can improve on this with the addition of something that has had a lot less development time is farcical.
British roads are the problem, not the chassis.
The OEM Dynamic Chassis Control (DCC) dampers do. I'm surprised more don't tick that box, and dealers don't push the option more. With the amount people seem to spend on aftermarket shocks, its good value. I know Steve and Bognor etc don't think they are as good as Koni, but you wouldn't expect them to. I appreciate being able to select different modes with a press of a button on the dash.finding dampers that handle British roads better should also improve the ride.
OK, THE VERDICT....@markheathcote please let us know how it goes, I've also got a 22 Ocean 4motion and find the "handling" slightly terrifying. Having had 2 T28 panel vans previously (a high miler T5 that I lowered on Bilstein B14s and a low miler T6 that I had Caravelle rails and rear seat fitted on stock suspension) the amount of corner lean and understeer in the Ocean was rather unexpected. I too don't particularly want to lower mine but a bit more stiffness would be nice (that's what she said etc.)
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