Syncro SOS from Iceland...rear diff and shocks

B

Ben Jammin

Messages
10
Location
Milton Keynes
Vehicle
T5 SE 130
Hello...

I am looking for some advice regards the T4 Syncro system...

I am currently 3 weeks into a 5 week tour of Iceland in my T4 California Westy Syncro and bless her she has performed wonderfully until this evening...

I am in the back end of nowhere at least 10@ km from the nearest town and a have 2 problems...

Firstly my front right shock is sat down retracted as the threaded part at the top has sheared off, so I just have left the shaft that the thread would normally protrude up from...Q- Would it be possible to drive it carefully for 100km if I take the shock out the way or might it overload the torsion bars or damage something else?

Secondly 10 minutes later as I was limping it 20km to get it off the track the rear end started billowing clouds...a quick glance underneath (4degrees and raining sideways ) and there is oil all over the rear underside, I am assuming it has come from the rear diff and that the clouds were steam as the puddles slashed up onto it. Q- is a seal or something has gone and emptied all of the rear diff oil, could I still drive it as is or should I remove the prop between the front drive and the viscous coupling? Even with the second option would the dry rear diff still be ok?

Thanks...
 
Not an expert on this I'm afraid, but disconnecting the Drive Prop to the rear Diff will not stop it turning as it is still connected to the rear wheels which will be turning so I would be surprised if it would survive the experience.

As far as the Shock Absorber is concerned, the vehicle weight is carried by the Torsion bar suspension and the absorber is there to absorb and dampen the bounce so I presume you could drive carefully if it was just that but I think the Diff is the limiting factor here.

Sorry I cannot be of any further help. I think you will have to use your Travel/Breakdown Insurance.
 
We have heard of people disassembling the axle from back to front syncro diff and thus driving as a 2-wheel drive from Finland to The Netherlands in a T3 Syncro. So this should be possible, methinks, on a T4 as well. The basic system is the same, although yours is a front drive with the syncro in the back and the T3 has that the other way around.


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Thanks for your responses...

With a break in the weather I've managed (with the wheel still on! long arms) to get the shock bottom mount undone, removed the inserted and bolted that back on minus shock-it holds the drooling the other end...

The rear diff is it showing no signs of a leak that I can Serb and although there is oil about the place, the rear shock opposite corner from the snapped front one is showing signs of leaking also...

So I'm hoping the combination of two shocks popping were the reason fort the (gearboxy?!) oil smell and steam last night. I had to drive on 15km further to get off the dark narrow track

I will keep an eye on the diff and creep north the 120km to a garage that is sourcing me some front shocks for the morning as the road north is supposedly better

Standard gas shocks in Iceland are costing me £195 for a front pair , so I'm hoping that rear corner will be ok for a few weeks extra on just the spring...I have ordered a set in the uk and might get someone to post them out if it doesn't feel good...

Fingers crossed
 
Id be careful at the front. When unloaded the torsion anchors can pop out and they're very difficult to relocate.

This happens when people lower T4s excessively.
For info, it's the bit on the other end of the big nut that controls the ride height.

I'm not sure if the synchro runs a different system?

Re rear dif, I'd be surprised if it was running hot enough to create such a scene? If it was then it's probably fine to carry on as it may be fooked already.

Regarding the viscous coupling, if you remove the rear driveshaft it should behave as if you're spinning the rear wheels and send the drive forwards, I think.

One way to find out !
 
I ruined my front shock on my UK syncro in Norway but I had to bite the bullet and pay the local prices and get them swapped.

I'm interested to find out how you get on with the diff and I hope you get it sorted. I've heard of horror stories with the VC bursting but not the diff.
 

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