Which trolley jack?

[Big Ted]

I’ve some planned work to do (brakes) on the Cali later this year once it stops raining, so I’ve been looking at getting a trolley jack and axle stands.
Today the Cali has VW sidebars fitted and is on standard springs and shocks, but will be fitted with some B14’s in a month or so.

I believe a 2 tonne jack will be enough, 3 even better, but I’m unsure if I will need a low entry one or a high lift, or even both?
Assuming a flat tyre, would a standard trolley jack fit under the body once B14’s are fitted?

This kit looks cheap and cheerful, with decent axles stands. (I’m not looking for professional grade kit, just DIY’er level)

SGS 2 Tonne Car Trolley Jack | 4 Tonne Ratchet Axle Stands - SGS

www.sgs-engineering.com

Any thoughts?

 

[sidepod]

Just get the biggest one you can fit under the van. Make sure it’s one that has a combined jacking/release handle.

 

[pjm-84]

I have the 3 tonne version. A favourite of the older Landrover owner. Its the same as this one but with a slightly higher lift which you don't need on the Cali. Rubber pad is great. Bigger base, lifts with easy, stable.

3 Ton Heavy Duty Trolley Jack with 465mm Lifting Height

Designed for serious car enthusiasts and hobbyists, this is a 3 ton heavy duty trolley jack perfect for home garages and workshops. The TJ3X will lift a larger vehicle, such as a fully loaded van or 4x4 with a gross vehicle capacity of 3.5 tonne.

www.sgs-engineering.com

Axle stands..... I haven't figured out where I can place these under the Cali . Need to take a good look under the van. I think it will be a struggle.

 

[pjm-84]

Forgot to say I also have a 2 tonne version. Chalk and cheese

 

[Loz]

I have 3 trolley jacks for different purposes, my goto jack for the Cali is a Clarke strong-arm 3tonne.
I don't feel happy with the 2tonne.
I have also made my own puck to sit in the cup of the jack as the jacking point on the Cali is "L" shaped.


If I was buying today I would buy this one.

Clarke CTJ3000GB 3 Tonne Garage Trolley Jack - Machine Mart

www.machinemart.co.uk

It has a flat plate rather than a metal "cup"

 

[B J G]

I have a Halfords 2.5 tonne (long reach type) trolley jack that I only put under one wheel suspension arm at any time.
Appears to now be superseded by a 3 Tonne version HAL3T

If I was in the market I'd go for this one. 15% of 1st-2nd March

Laser 6734 3 Tonne Low Profile Jack - Machine Mart

www.machinemart.co.uk

 

[Alan Andrews]

I have several hydraulic jacks. Because I have a couple of classic minis I need them to be low profile too.

I invested in a 3 tonne low profile jack from Halfords. It is superb.

Axle Stands & Trolley Jacks | Halfords UK

Work safely under your car knowing that it’s being supported by our axle stands, with 2 & 3 tonne options available. Essential for the home mechanic.

www.halfords.com

Does all the cars with ease and feels very secure and robust no matter what height I take it to.

It is rather heavy though. But the transport handle and wheels make moving an ease.

Handle is secured to jack, and the lifting/lowering valve, so no more messing with loose handles. Also has a foot peddle to allow you to position the lifting pad before you start pumping the handle.

Look out for special offers.

I paid around £120 during Summer. Plus got more back via TopCashBack.

 

[Karlos]

I have a 3 ton trolley jack from Machine Mart, probably a Clarke but the label has gone and a HGV bottle jack that I acquired a long time ago, Both are at least 25 years old and still going strong.

 

[campandfly]

Has anyone yet found a suitable spot for axle/jack stands? I am particularly interested in jacking up the rear.

My friend has a trolley jack perhaps I could lift it with that and put the Jack stand where the reinforced scissor jack point is located. Any thoughts.

 

[campandfly]

can someone point to a suitable trolly jack lift point please?

 

[sidepod]

It depends on what you want to do.

If you’re removing the wheel then pick a spot on the suspension arm close to the outside. Use a bit of wood to cushion it. That way you don’t need to jack it high to full suspension droop.

 

[oldred]

As yours is 4 wheel drive it looks like you have the advantage of some more structural work under there than my standard 2 wheel drive.
That bracket on the right of image? I assume is the rear diff mounting? The one with the bolt through. That is as good a position as I can see, plenty strong enough. It will be one of the strongest areas of the rear. You will need something to help to bridge/avoid the bolt head/nut ideally. Please don't just rely on the jack, get something solid under there before getting under.
On my 2WD there is a 'U' channel section that runs from n/s to o/s its 70mm wide and 45/50mm in height. That makes up the U section. Thats what I used. Though I had to be very careful as its quite high. On yours I woud say that the diff is in the way looking at your photo.
Just be very careful. These are big lumps of metal. 3 tonne jack as a minimum if on the front end.
Finally as a precaution, don't be tempted to use a 2 tonne jack on the front end. I risked it, fortunately with no other consquences other than a jack that catastophically failed when the casting 'nut' at the top of the hydraulic body (where the ram comes out) split in two.. Lucky I don't go under until there is something solid supporting.

 

[campandfly]

It depends on what you want to do.

If you’re removing the wheel then pick a spot on the suspension arm close to the outside. Use a bit of wood to cushion it. That way you don’t need to jack it high to full suspension droop.

I am replacing an ABS sensor. I will need to take the wheel off for easy access. Rear passenger side.

 

[campandfly]

As yours is 4 wheel drive it looks like you have the advantage of some more structural work under there than my standard 2 wheel drive.
That bracket on the right of image? I assume is the rear diff mounting? The one with the bolt through. That is as good a position as I can see, plenty strong enough. It will be one of the strongest areas of the rear. You will need something to help to bridge/avoid the bolt head/nut ideally. Please don't just rely on the jack, get something solid under there before getting under.
On my 2WD there is a 'U' channel section that runs from n/s to o/s its 70mm wide and 45/50mm in height. That makes up the U section. Thats what I used. Though I had to be very careful as its quite high. On yours I woud say that the diff is in the way looking at your photo.
Just be very careful. These are big lumps of metal. 3 tonne jack as a minimum if on the front end.
Finally as a precaution, don't be tempted to use a 2 tonne jack on the front end. I risked it, fortunately with no other consquences other than a jack that catastophically failed when the casting 'nut' at the top of the hydraulic body (where the ram comes out) split in two.. Lucky I don't go under until there is something solid supporting.

Thank you for your reply. I have some thick blocks of 4x4 hardwood. You can be sure I am going to be extra careful.

 

[kurienp]

As yours is 4 wheel drive it looks like you have the advantage of some more structural work under there than my standard 2 wheel drive.
That bracket on the right of image? I assume is the rear diff mounting? The one with the bolt through. That is as good a position as I can see, plenty strong enough. It will be one of the strongest areas of the rear. You will need something to help to bridge/avoid the bolt head/nut ideally. Please don't just rely on the jack, get something solid under there before getting under.
On my 2WD there is a 'U' channel section that runs from n/s to o/s its 70mm wide and 45/50mm in height. That makes up the U section. Thats what I used. Though I had to be very careful as its quite high. On yours I woud say that the diff is in the way looking at your photo.
Just be very careful. These are big lumps of metal. 3 tonne jack as a minimum if on the front end.
Finally as a precaution, don't be tempted to use a 2 tonne jack on the front end. I risked it, fortunately with no other consquences other than a jack that catastophically failed when the casting 'nut' at the top of the hydraulic body (where the ram comes out) split in two.. Lucky I don't go under until there is something solid supporting.

The bracket holding the rear diff is attached using a rubber bush. Not sure how much of weight/force that may be able to bear (if you jack it up from there, the weight of the van will be pushing down on the jack through the rubber at that point). Why not use the frame above that? agree - it is way high up, but if you got a tall enough support, that may be a better place.

Again, I am not an expert, but logically that seems to be a better place.

 

[campandfly]

It depends on what you want to do.

If you’re removing the wheel then pick a spot on the suspension arm close to the outside. Use a bit of wood to cushion it. That way you don’t need to jack it high to full suspension droop.

A bit of a newbie at this. Is the suspension arm you are referring too as a point to use a Trolley Jack then I can put an axle/jack stand underneath the Scissor Jack stand point?

 

[kurienp]

Ok, just went and looked under the van for ideas. The lifting point for the standard jack is wide enough. Move the lifting jack towards the wheel side when lifting - without using the full width of the jacking point. Put the stand to the other side. Ensure that it is secure.

I think there is sufficient space. Not tried it ... but that will be the safest place without causing any damage to any part as that is the place recommended by VW. Remember the Cali is a heavy vehicle - hence the extra caution on the lifting area.

 

[campandfly]

Ok, just went and looked under the van for ideas. The lifting point for the standard jack is wide enough. Move the lifting jack towards the wheel side when lifting - without using the full width of the jacking point. Put the stand to the other side. Ensure that it is secure.

I think there is sufficient space. Not tried it ... but that will be the safest place without causing any damage to any part as that is the place recommended by VW. Remember the Cali is a heavy vehicle - hence the extra caution on the lifting area.

View attachment 60338

That looks like a possibility I will go and take a look in the morning. Thanks for taking a look.
I have been over on some of the T5/6 Forums and there are so many trying to figure out the best way to Jack up.
Of course everyone has slightly different vehicles, Jacking equipment and places they need to get to. Also if you have never been under a vehicle there is also all the different terminology and parts to learn.

 

[oldred]

A word of warning on that from kurienp. I have looked at the jacking point and a sad you say is the vw position. Now at this point I have to say I have not taken a look at the standard jack , which I’m sure will is adequate for changing wheels etc. But take a close look at the bracket if you are using a trolley jack . As you can see in the photo the boxed area is where the bracket is chopped back, that’s to say that it’s not at the same level all the way around the bracket. Another thing there is the tab on the suspension leg , so if using a trolley jack with a wide pad as the van is lifted the tab reacts and would drop , digging into the pad. Like I’ve said just be careful , have a look at the bracket and observe the tab is you raise t th he van.

 

[sidepod]

Can’t help feeling you’re over thinking this?

 

[B J G]

An option, only an option, when using a trolley jack (under a suspension arm) is to use the standard scissor jack as a secondary support.
This has the additional advantage of being able to raise the body in the event of a trolley jack failure, which may leave the body too low to insert the standard scissor jack.

 

[oldred]

That’s a fair comment sidepod. I do have tendency as the years have gone on.. to maybe do that. !
I wanted to just make us aware . I didn’t want to just want them to crack on.. without the observations.. but I certainly take your point sidepod .
I did jack up the rear using the rear sus arms and put the van on ramps. Then I used the trolley jack to raise the side that needed the wheel off to work on. Axle stand was put on the member I referred to earlier..

 

[campandfly]

Ok. First off thank you for all above that put up with my newbie to car mechanics questions.
Much appreciated and I would not have attempted it without some tips.

I was quite concerned about not doing any damage to the underside of my Cali but most of all to myself.
I have to own up and say I have been under the car recently with only the Cali Jack (very lucky) it makes me shudder on learning that they often fail and I should have a secondary support eg. Axle jacks
So I went into hyper mode and propped up and supported the rear with 3 points.

The repair was quite simple I needed to replace the Rear Passenger ABS sensor I will post my results there. It was successful and no damage done. https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/orange-warning-lights.1473/post-426786

 

[paradise city]

I changed over to my winter wheels today using a new trolley jack and axle stands that I got for my birthday.

This is how I did it.

Rear: jacked on suspension arm and axle stand on jacking point.

Front: Jacked on jacking point and axle stand as shown in the third photo (I don't know what that part is called!).

It seemed to work OK. Happy to hear any criticism of my method!

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

 

[B J G]

Personal preference is to put the jack under a suspension arm and jack that one wheel. Axle stand under chassis/body as a safety measure.

With your method I'd not remove the jack and only have the axle stand in place. With the jack removed and the axle stand in the position shown in last photo in the event of the van moving it could 'slide' off the stand.

I've learned (the hard way) the H&S method of risk assessment or applying Murphy's Law to any jacking operation.