The van helping us get the most out of life

Glad you’re up and running again. Putting a couple of ice blocks in the fridge and already cold items helps the fridge (and batteries) out a fair bit. There’s a thread on which temperature setting you’ll want, we use 6 (Max is 7) although at that temperature anything at the back (window side) freezes eventually, so that’s where our ice thermos flasks live. A digital fridge temperature gauge is inexpensive and should hopefully keep you from inadvertently giving yourselves food poisoning until you’re comfortable with it.
 
I’m not sure that’s correct. I think it’s the other way. I use 4 but on one side of the fridge it can ice over. Going higher ie 5-7 makes it freeze less so I’d say 1 is the most efficient freezing and 7 is less effective
 
Paulro said:
I’m not sure that’s correct. I think it’s the other way. I use 4 but on one side of the fridge it can ice over. Going higher ie 5-7 makes it freeze less so I’d say 1 is the most efficient freezing and 7 is less effective
Click to expand...
after some tests I ended top on setting 5 which gives around 5-8C in the centre, after all the fridge being small will always have a rapid turnaround of things like meat. Anything sensitive goes in the back.
 
Fridge not staying on again… as soon as I can I will check the cube fuse.

I’m suspicious that the plug socket i was charging from might but be properly grounded- either that or I have the Earth
Shunt thing to fix..
anyone think fitting the 75a fuse instead of the 50a a bad idea?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Managed to find a couple of mins and got to the rear cube fuse. Turns out it’s fine!

So.. I also noticed that there’s no clicking sound this time when trying to turn the register
Fridge on. It won’t turn on with the engine on or when plugged into the mains… I will try that danfoss controller doodad check list next to see if I can diagnose anything else..

I’m slowly replacing all the fuses with those ones that glow when they are broken as well.. should help matters in the future I think.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
anyone think fitting the 75a fuse instead of the 50a a bad idea?
Click to expand...

John, about ten years ago, members of the German Cali-website Caliboard found out that the 50A fuse is prone to die, in situations where the leasure batts are deeply unloaded. The fierce currents that flow from the motor alternator to the leasure batt in the back are sometimes too high for this fuse. So yes, it is advised to place a 75A fuse there. (the front leasure batt already has a 80A fuse fitted in the factory, see picture. It protects the split relay under the pessenger seat.)

Regards from Amsterdam,

Marc.
Rijstoel_HH_Accu_fuse_80A_3.jpg
 
Wow! That’s what that fuse is! Thank you for the explanation! I might swap in the 75a then just in case.. don’t know about anyone else today but due to the drop in temps the boot is frozen shut and I could just smog get the passenger door open… time to get out the silicone spray I think.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Right- I’ve done the diagnostic thing for the fridge and it came out as 5 beeps which according to the blurb means the compressor is overloaded & to send the controller back for testing… does anyone have any experience with this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Wow ok getting the controller out is simple when you know how… not so much when you’ve never seen a side entry 3 prong plug before though!

So the replacement controller is the 101N0212 costing £160… wondering if it’s worthwhile sending the old one back for inspection or just ordering a new one…

eef9c9be98c46934aec84dbfe7316493.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
JohnVZ said:
Wow! That’s what that fuse is! Thank you for the explanation! I might swap in the 75a then just in case..
Click to expand...

Mind you, the 75A pole fuse is a block mounted on the plus pole of the rear battery. The 80A fuse under the pessengers seat is a kind of 'flying' fuse in the cable coming from the motor batt..

Regards from Amsterdam,

Marc.
 
JohnVZ said:
Wow! That’s what that fuse is! Thank you for the explanation! I might swap in the 75a then just in case.. don’t know about anyone else today but due to the drop in temps the boot is frozen shut and I could just smog get the passenger door open… time to get out the silicone spray I think.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
The 75a fuse fits on the rear battery, not this one under the passenger seat. It’s the block type fuse you are thinking of uprating
 
I’m about ready to throw in the towel trying to fit the controller back on… very fed up. I cannot work out what keeps blocking me from sliding it onto the metal bracket!

It’s plugged in- and so I’m very tempted to just wedge the thing in with thick foam… if anyone knows the trick up getting it back onto its metal bracket please do say.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
John,

This is all I could find on my harddisk. Maybe it will help you...

Regards from Amsterdam,

Marc.
 

Attachments

  • REPLACING THE CONTROL BOX ON A BD35-50.pdf
    381 KB · Views: 13
Thanks very much Marc- I’m resolving myself to using thick foam for now until I remove the whole fridge unit in the future. Thank you very much though!

The good news is that the fridge now works!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
JohnVZ said:
Thanks very much Marc- I’m resolving myself to using thick foam for now until I remove the whole fridge unit in the future. Thank you very much though!

The good news is that the fridge now works!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

@JohnVZ , I would avoid thick foam not knowing how hot that area can get and foam can melt. If you cannot peek inside, use the phone camera to take a few pics of the inside area and then analyse the pics to see what is stopping it from slotting into place. A drain hole camera is also a good investment. Not very expensive off Amazon.
 
Finally got round to replacing the water level meter… nice little crack down the side of the old one!
512138fafc65bc40dcbb38faa465b0d2.jpg

And now the water level will finally registers empty! Yay!

9fcb623163e6bea12d0d570e575aefa4.jpg


I seem to have a recurring rear number plate bulb going… not concerned about it as I’ve just had the mot done. Might upgrade to some led ones and see if that makes a difference.
 
Hi John
Looks like you in same boat as myself .Purchased a 2009 174 in Sept and have lots of little niggles shall we say.Replaced original leisure batteries and just installing two solar panels .My fridge doesn't always seem to work but think mine is when ambient temperature is low .If I raise fridge level to max it works .Keep plugging away and the self satisfaction I now get as most of my equipment works as intended is part of learning and getting a connection with chip our van.Good luck with yours
 
Cheers for that.
I’ve just replaced the leisure batteries tonight.
Ordered them from Tayna.

So hoping for a good few years out of them!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I put a 75a cube fuse in ours and I’m sure that was there from new in 2018. You need to make sure that both leisure batteries are fully charged before you reconnect, as the equalising current could blow the fuse again.
 
Wow.. erm.. it's been almost 2 years!
Updates in the interim:
Rear shock absorbers replaced
Front shocks tops replaced
New tyres all round (thank you costco)
and the biggie was a new turbo manifold!
Basically the manifold warped and snapped a stud.. in the block... the only place I could find that would touch it was Darkside developments, and to their credits they got it done and it's running great.



So! the current "challenge" is a lack of charge when plugged in. I've been reading away on all the previous posts, trying to figure which problem I have.

Essentially, when I plug it in to charge the charging symbol doesn't show.. I'm just stuck with the battery symbol.
I have taken out the relay that's in the vicinity of what I'm assuming is a big transformer underneath the fridge and tested it. The only test I couldn't get it to pass was the actual voltage travelling through! I can hear it clicking and I tested it for continuity, that was all fine, but when trying to see what voltage I could get through it - nada.

So that's where we're at - I've ordered a new relay.. and hopefully that will sort it out. If it's NOT the relay.. how much does a new transformer job/box thing cost and where on earth would you get one?

Cheers,

John
835f73672e2e6b9a8a1fa1bc8d7713e9.jpg
7a72131f94af71fdcb86e43e6256e73b.jpg
 
Last edited:
JohnVZ said:
Wow.. erm.. it's been almost 2 years!
Updates in the interim:
Rear shock absorbers replaced
Front shocks tops replaced
New tyres all round (thank you costco)
and the biggie was a new turbo manifold!
Basically the manifold warped and snapped a stud.. in the block... the only place I could find that would touch it was Darkside developments, and to their credits they got it done and it's running great.



So! the current "challenge" is a lack of charge when plugged in. I've been reading away on all the previous posts, trying to figure which problem I have.

Essentially, when I plug it in to charge the charging symbol doesn't show.. I'm just stuck with the battery symbol.
I have taken out the relay that's in the vicinity of what I'm assuming is a big transformer underneath the fridge and tested it. The only test I couldn't get it to pass was the actual voltage travelling through! I can hear it clicking and I tested it for continuity, that was all fine, but when trying to see what voltage I could get through it - nada.

So that's where we're at - I've ordered a new relay.. and hopefully that will sort it out. If it's NOT the relay.. how much does a new transformer job/box thing cost and where on earth would you get one?

Cheers,

John
835f73672e2e6b9a8a1fa1bc8d7713e9.jpg
7a72131f94af71fdcb86e43e6256e73b.jpg
Click to expand...

What year is your vehicle?
The Mains charger has the same part number since 2000 upto 2019 at least.

The Mains Charger has an internal glass fuse. The holder is alongside the Mains input plug.
 
WelshGas said:
What year is your vehicle?
The Mains charger has the same part number since 2000 upto 2019 at least.

The Mains Charger has an internal glass fuse. The holder is alongside the Mains input plug.
Click to expand...
Hey!
It's a 2008. That's very helpful. I'll try and have a look for the fuse tomorrow.
I shall Google a mains charger all the same.. thanks very much!

Sent from my SM-A057G using Tapatalk
 
Right so I've checked the green 30a fuses under the front passenger seat and they're fine.
I then pulled the glass fuse and it appears to be fine too!

I thenb plugged the mains charging cable into the van and then tried the multimeter on the wires coming out of the charger box and I got 12.8v..

Erm... Ok.. I'm a BIT stuck here... If the charging box is producing 12.8v.. why isn't the symbol on the display showing that it's plugged in and charging?
c81f62b2b645f10e40454ec07732b583.jpg
f1ab70d7fb6784509425cd45143a0e12.jpg
d3200654ef6d7bc3231fad129b68647d.jpg
e57f1cc98005a3b2634d12021e773569.jpg


Sent from my SM-A057G using Tapatalk
 
Just checked cube fuse.. it's not that either...
66b9b783f7f7754208cd09872b13fc50.jpg


Sent from my SM-A057G using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
We Hired an Ocean to Help Us Decide...
Replies
2
Views
2K
G3WRT
G
W
Introduction
Replies
2
Views
998
two-saabs
two-saabs
Romke
Confessions of a Beach deserter
Replies
6
Views
3K
Nolan
Nolan
CamperFam
The Adventure Begins!
Replies
7
Views
2K
BeagleMum
BeagleMum
W
Lots of newbie questions! :-)
Replies
18
Views
4K
WingingIt
W

Useful links

VW California Club

  • Comfort Insurance
  • VIP Membership
  • Hire a Vw California
  • CampervanBits Accessories

About us

The VW California Club is the worlds largest resource for all owners and enthusiasts of VW California campervans.

Our Partners

Our Websites

Back
Top